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Old 01-19-2018, 08:33 AM #31
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THE PLOT THATS 10 METERS FROM THE MOUNTAIN STREAM

ITS IN THE VERY CENTER OF A BIG BLACK BERRY THICKET

THE SOIL IS RICH BUT A BIT TOO MUCH CLAY; I AM ADDING AS MUCH ORGANIC MATTER AS I CAN
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Old 01-19-2018, 08:34 AM #32
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BREAK INBETWEEN DIGGING

THATS FROM MY LAST YEAR GROW. I GOT THE SEEDS FROM A FREIND THAT DOES INDOOR; THE SEEDS HE GAVE ME WERE ALL CHILDREN OF PROPER STORE BOUGHT DUTCH SEEEDS.

IT WAS REALLY COOL; I GOT 100 PER CENT GERMINATIO WITH THOSE FREE SEEDS. ALSO 10/10 WERE FEMALE!!!!!!

I GOT A TOTAL OF 600 GR FROM 10 PLANTS; IN THE BEGINNING OF THE GROW SEASON I PUT OUT A TOTAL OF 150 SEEDLINGS; 40 WERE IN THE SWAMP; THE ONES IN THE SWAMP ALL GOT EATEN BUY SOME RODENTS AND SOME BY SLUGS;
THEN ABOUT ANOTHER 100 DIED FROM DROUGHT WHEN THE SPRING A PLANTED NEXT TO DRIED UP IN JULY; SO OUT OF 15O I HARVESSTED ONLY 10 LAST YEAR BUT STILL GOT A GOOD JAR FULL. HAD THEY ALL SURVIVED WELL DANG THAT WOULD HAVE BEEN ALOT OF WEED!!!!

THATS WHY THIS YEAR I AM STARTING EARLY AND FOCUSING ON PLACES WITH WATER

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Old 01-19-2018, 08:36 AM #33
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SOME ROTTEN WOOD; IN THE PIC ITS JUST A BIT BUT I COLLECTED MANY BAGS OF GREAT OAK LEAF COMPOST AND ADDED TO THE SPOT
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Old 01-19-2018, 08:50 AM #34
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i just got in from an early morning drop off. i put my stakes and cages all out at the swamp spot. this afternoon i go to set up the cages. these cages i measure, cut and weave into the tube, all at home. then i fold the ready cages into a size that can easily fit into a bag. then i lay them ontop eachother stacked up, then into the bag, then to the site. it takes time to prep each cage and it better to be onsite as less as possible. do as much preparation as possible, at home. so that when we venture out into to open we are quick, efficient, and gone without a trace
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Old 01-19-2018, 09:53 AM #35
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Originally Posted by HIMALAYAN GANJA View Post
i have been preping a plot thats 10 meters away from a small year round stream. i will be putting a hose in the stream up hill with a 6 foot rise. the other end of the hose to my plot for watering. now this is my dilemna. either i can put a watering timer on the hose and have proper wet dry cycle OR i can do another idea:

1 make 2 raised rows in the plot. raised a minimum of 1 foot high.

2 lay down a strip of hose in between each raised row.

3 poke many many VERY SMALL holes down the entire lenght of the hoses

4 wrap thes pin pricked hoses in many tight layers of nylon fabric. fasten fabric in place with ties or rope or string or wat ever is on hand.

5 burry each hose in the small ravine between the raised beds

6 connect each hose to the main line that is connected to the stream

The idea is to make a gorilla water collar but instead of a bottle feeding the collar, i want the stream to feed the collar. i understand that the collar with a bottle will only release water when the soil begins to dry out. i am guessing that the same ting can be achieved by making the holes in the burried pipe VERY SMALL AND NUMEROUSE. then the nylon fabric should help to slow down the flow. then soil compacted around the hose shouls also help to regulate this flow

if the water source were to be much higher in elevation then i could imagine that it would creat a good pressue and that would maybe make the water flow out of the holes too quick. so normally if there is a very small pressure in the pipe the water should flow slowly.

then there is the raised bed. the pipe is burried 6 inches below surface of the space between the rows. thus the stem of the plant would be about 1 foot above the part of the ground recieving the constant water. thus even if the idea didnt work as planned, and the water flows too fast thus saturating the soil beyond acceptable, well then the plants are raised above this muddy area and should in theory have no problem

i really hope to get as much feed back as possible oin this idea. i think that if posssible this could be a easy way to water a set and forget patch

patiently waiting for all you super-smart boys and gals to tell me what you think
I'm liking the water collar idea as it is simple and pretty much operates on its own. Maybe add a valve right where the hose starts to go into the ravine so you have control over the water flow instead of just hoping for the best with all the small holes wrapped in fabric/rope? I use valves with my drip systems and they are very helpful.
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Old 01-19-2018, 10:05 AM #36
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Maybe something like this?
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Old 01-19-2018, 10:10 AM #37
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so you think that the root wont get too wet since the root ball will be up in the raised bad which doesnt get wet?

yes i have some valves to put at the inlet side of the pipe
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Old 01-19-2018, 10:28 AM #38
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As long as the ground bellow it is slightly moist not waterlogged you should be alright with that raised bed. I'd recommend maybe adding a little perlite to your coco to provide drainage and air pockets. Obviously the idea is to provide enough water to keep the plants happy but also avoid root rot. You'll probably have to make several visits for adjustments to get into that sweet spot but again, the valve will help with that.
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Old 01-19-2018, 05:58 PM #39
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Be Careful if you use perlite. It can wash to the top of soil and the white really stands out.

Have you been to this area last year when it was green. You maybe surprised if the natural vegetation is lush and green it may not need too much water.

I like your water collar idea.you can buy hose with pin holes in it already. How would you feed it ? gravity and siphon it to the area or a solar powered pump on a timer?

Your water fed area will stick out badly if the natural plants are all dried/yellowed up around your plot. That is why the swamps are nice.

Peace GG
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Old 01-19-2018, 08:38 PM #40
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i cant get perlite to the spot. i am mixing a large quantity of organic matter with the native soil to add drainage.

yes the plot is right next to the stream. the stream has water even in summer. as you said gg, i think the soil there gets some moisture naturally from the proximity to the constant water source, the stream. i just want to make sure they plants have plenty of water so thats why i want to do the irrigation. the drip pipe or water collar will be fed directly from the stream at a spot that is abou 3-4 feet higher than the plot. normally if i were to just have a hose flowing water constantly i will get root rot, but by regulating the flow to ver tiny amount dripping constantly, then it should work. if i see that the plant show signs of over watering then i will quickly turn off the valve and start watering by hand weekly.
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