1000w coco headstyle pre-grow setup

Grat3fulh3ad said:

OK guys... time for an update... been running the GH in coco for a bit now, and have made a couple of slight changes...

I'm now running the 6 and 9 ratio up to the first third of 12/12, then 6 and 12 for 1 week, then just 9ml/gal bloom with no micro up until the last three weeks, which are just distilled water...

I'm sacrificing some of the yield for an improvement in the flavor and burn of the final product...

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Grat3fulh3ad said:

is pretty much the regimen I've settled into...
I'm running the 6/9 until the production of new calyx begins to slow... a couple of weeks into flower production on faster flowering strains, a bit longer for 70+ day flowerers... Some of the heavier finishers get the extra 3 ml/gal of bloom that last week... then 0/9 up until flush time...

I have been trying minor variations... upping the bloom during veg gave a bit of Mg/Ca lockout... Leaving out the micro too early looses bud mass... Leaving the micro in too long makes flushing more difficult... Not flushing long enough affects the quality of the flavor and burn... Watering with no runoff at all causes lockout and flushing issues late in flower... Watering with more than a tiny bit of runoff is a waste of nute, and environmentally irresponsible...

No matter what variations I've tried, I seem to end up right back just about where I am now...

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Grat3fulh3ad said:

You can drop the micro when stretch has completely stopped, and calyx production seems at it's peak... roughly 1/2 way through flowering depending on strain...

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Grat3fulh3ad said:

seedlings generally do not need to be fed for the first 10 to 14 days.

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Grat3fulh3ad said:

Here is a detail of how i recommend transplanting into solo cups for coco:

1. only use cuts which have begun to grow roots. by this i mean that the cut is actually growing roots, not merely having bumps that will be roots. usually I wait until i see more than one root emerging from the rw cube. if cloning in coco i transplant as soon as I see the cut growing again. when cloning in coco i water cuts often too.

2. hydrate your coco with 1/2 str 6/9. coco should be wet, but not so wet that water drips out when you pick up a handful.

3. loosely fill the cup with coco up to the level where the bottom of the cube will rest. set the cube in. loosely fill in around the cube to the level of the top of the cube. gently drop the cup once from about 1.5 inches high to tamp the coco.

4. 24 hours later begin watering daily, by pouring a small stream of diluted 6/9 nutrient solution directly into the rw cube until nutrient just begins to run out of the cup holes.

5. transplant again in a couple of weeks.

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Grat3fulh3ad said:

I usually go from solo cups to 1 gals to 3 gals... Flowering is in 3 gals...

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Grat3fulh3ad said:

Alternating internodes is the most easily recognizable sign that a plant is sexually mature and ready to flower.

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DJM said:

thank man..using a flotec intellipump..one pumps waters all 12 lights..it feeds 1/2 inch pvc piping that loops around the middle row of plants in a rectangle to maintain even pressure..i have 15 1/2 ts hooked to 12" pvc risers, with a 4 point manifold on each riser..each manifold feeds 4 - 1/4 inch lines..each plant is fed by 2 of these 1/4 inch lines..i use no sprayers or halos or drippers...just the 1/4 inch line with open end hooked to to drip stake..hope that helps

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DJM said:

thanks

when I run 6/9 I never drop micro...I run them both till flush, then flush for 2 weeks...I never understood the whole drop micro thing...yes, you are cutting out nitrogen early to allow the leaves to fade easier and leach plants of nitrogen, sure..but what about the phosphorous, potassium, mag, cal and all the other elements in the bloom? do those not need to be leached and flushed out in the same manner? just because youre leaves are yellow and VISUALLY look flushed, that doesn't mean all elements have been leached from the plant, only that N has....p, k, mg , ca ect that is in the bloom need to be leached just as well, but their is no visual reference to know when they have been, like with N...people think just because youre leaves yellow when cutting micro early, the plants are flushed and leached, when they are only really leached of N, but still have all the elements in bloom that wont be leached out as much unless you cut them both at the same time

many will disagree, to each their own..but when my plants are yellowed off after flush, I know ALL elements have been leached from my plants, not just nitrogen, while they are still chocked full of k, p, mg, ca ect from running the bloom longer than the micro...if you tested nutrient levels of their plants after flush, id guarantee these cut micro early folks would have no nitrogen in their plants, but still have everything else...ive done both, cutting them both at the same time with a good long flush gives you the best quality product with 6/9..and I stand by that statement

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DJM said:

No i haven't I prefer how the root system is built in plastic pots. I only use smart pots for final container

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DJM said:

id like to clear up all the misunderstandings regarding my use of vpd and high heat/humidity in my rooms

earlier in the thread I said ive ran as high as 80% before all the way up to harvest and never had rot..and that is true..however no where did I say that 80% to harvest was ideal nor that I do that purposely, only that I have before...as mentioned in the previous post, I learn from trial and error..just like my intake cooling system..and with trial and error there is many tweakings and evolutions of an idea..as in that situation there is no one to copy ...this thread is the result of that

in growing plants there is no way that is 100% right for every plant at every stage of growing..any of that tells you differently lacks the experience to realize that

I use a loose template for the environment in my room, and depending on the plant size, flowering time, and other variables I may tweek things here and there...but I ALWAYS stay in the range of correct vpd...anyone that thinks vpd is just running high heat and humidity all the time should really do some more reading before they post here...here is what the schedule of an average run looks for me environmentally

ALL veg - 85 f / 75% rh (day) ; 80f/ 70% (night) ; 800 ppms co2

week 1 - 85f/ 75% rh (day) ; 80 f/ 70% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 2 - 85f/ 75% rh (day) ; 80 f/ 70% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 3 - 85f/ 75% rh (day) ; 80 f/ 70% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 4 - 82f/ 72% rh (day) ; 78f/ 68% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 5 - 80f/ 70%rh (day) ; 75f / 65% (night) ; 1000 ppms c02

week 6 - 80f /70%rh (day) ; 75f / 65% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 7 - 78f/68% rh (day) ; 72 f/ 62% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 8 - 75f/ 65%rh (day) ; 70f/ 60% (night) ; 0 ppms co2

week 9 - 70f /60% rh (day) ; 60f/ 50% (night) ; 0 ppm c02



That is the average range in my room for a 63 day strain..If its a 56 or 70 day strain I just extend or shorten the temps/rh for the stretch period...The dropping of temps and rh is not to prevent rot as that has truly never been an issue in my rooms..but its to create denser flowers. sometimes it can bring more color and fragrance as well..ive essentially started running my rooms to mirror the natural transition of the seasons where its hot and humid in the summer to benefit vegetative growth but then cools down and dries out to benefit the ripening phase of the last few weeks of flower

now with that said, this is what I consider ideal temps/rh...but that's not to say that anything outside of that will harm the plant..people need to understand just how resilient this plant is..for example , I'm currently growing in greenhouses outdoors now and my night time humidity is always in the 80s due to the humidity of the NE. and has been the entire flowering period..im harvesting as we speak and rot is non existent..because I have an obsene amount of air movement..so although I wouldn't advise someone that 80% rh is ideal to intentionally run, I wouldn't say its the devil either like some people here have..when you understand the variable of high RH and know how to balance the other variable such as wind along side it,to its benefit, then it demystifies the fear of high RH in a grow room

hopefully that can put this beaten dead horse to sleep

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Hundred Gram Oz said:

Thanks all for taking interest in my thread. Growing DTW with mulit-feeding is great. I've converted a few friends over to this way of growing and they are getting unreal results.

About the PH, I like to keep my PH at 5.8-6.0 right up to the end of flower stretch. Once the plants have stopped stretching and start to put their energy into bud production I keep my PH at 6.0-6.2. There are variables that make the exception, for example if I think they look a little bit Nitrogen toxic (during veg or flower) I'll keep the PH at 6.2 because at this PH less Nitrogen is available, Nitrogen is more freely available the closer you get to 5.8.

HGO

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MrBungle said:

I think the problem people have with flush is that they are trying to remove everything they spent weeks/months adding in..

The original idea behind a flush was just to remove any excess salts from the medium..... People take this to the extreme and I believe they hurt their yield and flavor by removing too much.... just my 2 cents

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gorilla ganja said:

Subbed for the show. Like the way your posting quotes from the great growers that came before you, All summarized in 1 thread.

Best of luck with your grow and may all your Buds be Huge

Peace GG

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Treetroit City said:

Day 74

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