What's new

Magnesium issues?

Im'One

Im'One

Active member
I have island sweet skunk outside in Oklahoma. They get some direct sun. They are in a light soil with very little nutes added. My soil is happy frog ocean forest, peat moss, and perlite mixed in equal quantity. I have added small amount of de. I use a myco chum nutrient which is basically fish emulsion and molasses. It was a two week ago when I last fed her. I flushed the with well water a week ago. It seemed to help. I had been using rain water at 5.9 pH the well water is 6.8 pH. https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=80887&pictureid=1964707

Sorry about photo quality
 
Last edited:
T

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Im'One said:
I have island sweet skunk outside in Oklahoma. They get some direct sun. They are in a light soil with very little nutes added. My soil is happy frog ocean forest, peat moss, and perlite mixed in equal quantity. I have added small amount of de. I use a myco chum nutrient which is basically fish emulsion and molasses. It was a two week ago when I last fed her. I flushed the with well water a week ago. It seemed to help. I had been using rain water at 5.9 pH the well water is 6.8 pH. https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=80887&pictureid=1964707

Sorry about photo quality
Click to expand...
Looks more like small container. A bigger root system automatically means less nutrient deficiencies, because more of the nutrients are absorbed.

Which also means you can use lower nutrient concentrations, which has a positive effect on the taste of the plant.

I'd just repot them in low nutrient containing soil, and give them 0.4 EC of bloom food which encourages root growth (P), and 0.1 EC of epsom salt for the magnesium, which keeps the leaves green and phototropic.

After you do all that, you can put a layer of supersoil on top of that -without watering it in. Done that way, it cannot burn the roots.

The combination of a low concentration of liquid nutrients which feed immediately, and the presence of solid nutrients which feed the plant slowly but relentlessly, means that nutrient deficiencies stay away.

Also, watering is very important - most plants like it when water moves up through the soil. A watering mat with a reservoir of pure water or a container with a built in reservoir work really well.
 
Im'One

Im'One

Active member
I'm sorry what does EC stand for?
So re-pot, add some bloom food and small amount of epsom salt water? Then put a layer of happy frog in top?
Also I have more photos in my album.
 
webwiller

webwiller

Member
Im'One said:
I'm sorry what does EC stand for?
So re-pot, add some bloom food and small amount of Epsom salt water put a layer of happy frog in top?
Also I have more photos in my album.
Click to expand...

EC=Electrical Conductivity

In few words is a parameter which measures the salts dissolved in water as salty water conducts electricity while freshwater does not.

You need a meter ('round 20bucks on Amazon) to measure it. You can find a bit more expensive meters which measure PH, EC & TDS = Water PH, EC and Total Dissolved Solids (don't mix match solids and salts, they're both parameter to help you define water quality and nutes concentration but aren't the same thing at all!)
 
C

calisun

Active member
Happy frog is light on nutrients to start with. To me it looks like a phosphorous deficiency. A closer picture of the leaves and petiole would help diagnose it. It looks like the plant is starting to flower. Typically they use more P and Ca at the start of flower and more k towards the middle and end of flower with a little N in the beginning and middle as far as the macro nutrients go.
 
T

Teddybrae

Not to diminish Mr Magic whose remedy will work for sure ... but I 'm with Calisun's explanation: eg starting to flower and thus scavenging nutrient from larger leaves which it does not need any more to get bigger.
I can't see a specific deficiency. I think your plant overall needs more nutrient and more sunlight.
Hope yr buds get BIG!
 
Im'One

Im'One

Active member
https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=80894

Yes they just went into bloom. Still ok to put in larger pot? Maybe I should re pot both plant although only one pheno has sign of deficiency?
 
Im'One

Im'One

Active member
So I'm looking at foxfarms schedule and they show EC values at the top of the chart. Looks like I'm needing something like BigBloom fed at half strength and may be a calmag solution. I have gypsum, azimite, Epsom salt and dolomite lime. Can I mix my own Cal may from what I have?
Also does superthrive help?
The myco chum I used is just a weak nitrogen potash solution with humic acid.
 
Last edited:
T

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Im'One said:
I'm sorry what does EC stand for?
So re-pot, add some bloom food and small amount of epsom salt water? Then put a layer of happy frog in top?
Also I have more photos in my album.
Click to expand...
EC means Electrical Conductivity and is another way to express PPM.

Because there is 1 standard for EC, and there seem to be 3 different standards to measure PPM, I always use EC.

https://manicbotanix.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/ec_ppm_conversion_chart.png

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/d9/07/5e/d9075effd994d950c04db6ea70ac3422.jpg
 
Last edited:
Lost in a SOG

Lost in a SOG

GrassSnakeGenetics
Essentially you're throwing a lot of random stuff at them and you have 0 idea of the cause of this deficiency/toxicity/lock out.. my advice is to next time get bigger pots and mix up some org. soil. Its easy and makes your life infinitely easier as a beginner than the path you're on.

Calcium and magnesium being immobile need to be consistently available not dosed up. Also magnesium over dosing can really screw up the calcium to mag ratio in the medium, which wants to be mostly Ca vs Mg.. imo.
 
T

TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Im'One said:
I'm sorry what does EC stand for?
So re-pot, add some bloom food and small amount of epsom salt water? Then put a layer of happy frog in top? Also I have more photos in my album.
Click to expand...
That sounds right to me.

The flowering food encourages root growth, and the roots will grow into the supersoil/heavily fertilized soil too, and feed the plant that way.

You get rid of a lot of nutrient deficiencies that way.

Plus, flowering is mainly about the expansion of the root system to begin with. That's why plants flower so well in hydro - the roots can just expand into the water without resistance or restriction.

You can replicate this in soil by topping up with at least 2 inches of soil.

However it is really important not to water in the supersoil/hot soil early on.
 
Im'One

Im'One

Active member
I put the smartpots in barrels and watered from the bottom. I used happy frog and ocean forest mixed in top of my light mix soil.
 
Last edited:
webwiller

webwiller

Member
Honestly, I don't know what you can/cannot mix or should/shouldn't give it.

Do you have a PH meter? Do you keep PH,EC and TDS values in place? PH (acidity or alkalinity) plays a BIG role in the capability of the plant to absorb the nutes.

If you have drained so the salts aren't accumulated (otherwise do), have correct PH and give them the correct nutes you'll see improvements in few days.

Transplanting during flowering isn't good. If you believe you could have salts blocking nutes better do a full flush of the soil and start again with nutes. A standard NPK for veg growth will do if this is the case.
:thank you:
 
troutman

troutman

Seed Whore
Epsom salt will fix a magnesium deficiency. Just water with some on a regular basis.

Outdoors I use Epsom salt and Dolomitic limestone.
 
Im'One

Im'One

Active member
webwiller said:
Honestly, I don't know what you can/cannot mix or should/shouldn't give it.

Do you have a PH meter? Do you keep PH,EC and TDS values in place? PH (acidity or alkalinity) plays a BIG role in the capability of the plant to absorb the nutes.

If you have drained so the salts aren't accumulated (otherwise do), have correct PH and give them the correct nutes you'll see improvements in few days.

Transplanting during flowering isn't good. If you believe you could have salts blocking nutes better do a full flush of the soil and start again with nutes. A standard NPK for veg growth will do if this is the case.
:thank you:
Click to expand...
I did a full flush about a week ago and this continues...and fully wet the soils today before adding the topdress...I have pH meter and a set of test strips which I find more reliable than the three in one meter from Lowe's. The water drain off was almost 7 today. I should have an EC meter here Monday, along with some big bloom from Fox farm.
I did a rePot of my Lebanese plants in my first grow when they first went into flower. It set them back a few days. I don't see I have any choice.
 
Im'One

Im'One

Active member
I was running rain water and it was at 5.9 or 6.0 once this started.....
I switched to well water which is harder, about 6.8 to 7. I will test it for TDS when my meter arrives.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top