Something wicked this way comes

delta9nxs · Jun 23, 2017

down2grow said:
Delta,

What brand are the 55 gallon volume tanks that you're using? Since you already use the 55 gallon tough totes, why didn't you just use those as the volume tank?

those are just regular 55 gal food grade drums. i think corn syrup was shipped in these. i buy them used for 25 bucks ea. and cut the tops off with a saws all. we scrub them out with a stiff brush and detergent. the new tops are 24" water heater pans.

i used them instead of the totes because i can store more water per sq ft of floor space in them.

delta9nxs · Jun 23, 2017

Heaths mate said:
Sorry it has taken me so long to reply but I have been stacked out
with work and my studies.

DHF - It's an honour to have you reply to my questions. I know very well that you and Heath are good friends. I have spent hours reading the two of you conversating. As a matter of a fact, the only reason I can half grow a plant is because of those conversations. I hope your well and I can't thank you enough for taking the time to reply. Thank you for explaining the container question, it was bugging me for a while. Thank you for the reassurace about the roots hitting water and still having enough DO as well, that was one of my main concerns. Don't suppose you have heard of Heath recently? I hope he is in good health.

D9 - Those pictures You have got some serious skills brother!

As far as the build is going I am now starting to seriously piece things together. I have brought the buckets and have started thinking about how to build the wicks. I did see some rainwater outlets with big flanges on that I thought could be perfect to use as a wick, but they are quite expensive. I might just use the uniseals I was using on my RDWC system, push some pvc pipe through them and use some aquatic sealant. I just cant seem to find a simple pvc downpipe with a flange on in this country.

Another thing I have been wondering is if nylon tights would be a terrible idea to use as a screen for both sides of the wick?

I also cant get any chunky perlite unless I order it in from the States. Because of this, I've decided to go with a mix of coco cut with some seramis. I don't know if anyone knows much about seramis, it's meant to be a type of clay mined in Germany that retains water very well. Apparently it is very similar to turface as I can't seem to get any turface either. Starting to consider emmigration! I am assuming I should be filling the wick with straight Seramis and not coco?

I have decided to go with the idea of having the control bucket in the centre as Delta suggested.

Thank you for everyone who has helped answer my questions.I feel blessed to be able to swim in this fountain of knowledge. God bless you all.

i think nylon tights are too fine of a mesh but since you brought up the "net" subject it occurs to me that nylon fish netting with 3-4 mm mesh might make a good screen for a tailpiece.

i used "pet" screen on top of the tailpiece before the coco successfully. it's like fiberglass insect screen only slightly larger mesh and stronger.

but i have used the regular insect screen too.

seramis is the same as turface. good shit! wash it good. load the tailpiece with it exclusively with a little mound of it protruding, then a piece of screen over the tailpiece, then the coco mix.

what is the particle size range of the seramis?

delta9nxs · Jun 23, 2017

Heaths mate said:
What about cutting the coco with rice hulls? Pretty sure even I can get hold of them lol

whatever you use do an air filled porosity test on it to make sure that you have 30-40% afp.

i would first check the seramis alone. on the scale you will be operating at it you could screen it if necessary and reuse it.

get a small piece of regular aluminum window screen and sift some seramis over it to get an idea of how much goes through.

delta9nxs · Jun 23, 2017

https://www.hydroculture.co.uk/seramis-clay-granules

looking at this it looks like a better particle size distribution than turface. and cleaner! from looking at that photo i can say that it will have at least a 30% afp unless the stuff in the photo has been sized and cleaned after opening the bag.

it may be good to go right out of the bag with a little rinsing.

Heaths mate · Jun 23, 2017

Gry - Thank you for the links and the advice, it is very much appreciated and you are an absolute gent. The links will come in especially useful.

D9 - Thank you again for answering my questions. I have wondered for a while whether turface and seramis were more or less the same and it's nice to finally know.

Im not sure what the particle sizes are yet. I will buy a bag in the next couple days and let you know as soon as. I rang the store and they told me it's around 3-5mm but I cannot yet say for sure. I will be testing it as soon as I have it as well so I will post reports once done. Thanks again to Gry for the links and yourself for the method.
It looks quite clean but I will definitely be cleaning it some more. In terms of cleaning, I normally just keep watering a pot full of media with PH's water for a while and letting it drain. Is this the correct way of prepping the media?

Also, if some of the particles are too small and I need to screen it, you do mean the aluminium insect screens right? Or do I sound like an idiot right now? My apologies, this is my first rodeo.

So coco and seramis it will be by the looks of it. Any idea on what sort of mix I should be going for? 50/50? The seramis is real expensive so I was hoping I could get away with using more coco, but if I will get better results by spending a little more I am happy to do so.

Thank you for the heads up about the screen as well. Your 24 carat D9!!

Boutique Manettino · Jun 24, 2017

DunHav`nFun · Jun 24, 2017

Yo bro....Speed of Green`s doin a nice size project with 2 greenhouses and 45 PPK plants in each GH , so how bout stopping by and add some input on the build please sir....it`s in "Growroom Design and Equipment" section....

Gonna try HL45 in PM as well since you said he`s done some outdoor PPK`s....anyways....just putting a bug in yer ear....

Peace.....DHF..... :ying:

....

delta9nxs · Jun 24, 2017

Heaths mate said:
Gry - Thank you for the links and the advice, it is very much appreciated and you are an absolute gent. The links will come in especially useful.

D9 - Thank you again for answering my questions. I have wondered for a while whether turface and seramis were more or less the same and it's nice to finally know.

Im not sure what the particle sizes are yet. I will buy a bag in the next couple days and let you know as soon as. I rang the store and they told me it's around 3-5mm but I cannot yet say for sure. I will be testing it as soon as I have it as well so I will post reports once done. Thanks again to Gry for the links and yourself for the method.
It looks quite clean but I will definitely be cleaning it some more. In terms of cleaning, I normally just keep watering a pot full of media with PH's water for a while and letting it drain. Is this the correct way of prepping the media?

Also, if some of the particles are too small and I need to screen it, you do mean the aluminium insect screens right? Or do I sound like an idiot right now? My apologies, this is my first rodeo.

So coco and seramis it will be by the looks of it. Any idea on what sort of mix I should be going for? 50/50? The seramis is real expensive so I was hoping I could get away with using more coco, but if I will get better results by spending a little more I am happy to do so.

Thank you for the heads up about the screen as well. Your 24 carat D9!!

i think that you may not need to mix anything at all. the seramis looks pre-screened to me. take some of it alone and do the afp test on it.

also, when i used coco in the past in one of these i got great results with just straight coco. i used the atami bcuzz loose fill.

there is little reason to mix these two substances as they are both high water retaining and high cec substances.

perlite can be used as a cutter for both as necessary.

rice hulls are just a substitute for perlite and bring nothing new to the table. and unless you live in arkansas in the usa rice hulls cost more than perlite.

check the afp of the seramis before cutting it.

delta9nxs · Jun 24, 2017

DunHav`nFun said:
Yo bro....Speed of Green`s doin a nice size project with 2 greenhouses and 45 PPK plants in each GH , so how bout stopping by and add some input on the build please sir....it`s in "Growroom Design and Equipment" section....

Gonna try HL45 in PM as well since you said he`s done some outdoor PPK`s....anyways....just putting a bug in yer ear....

Peace.....DHF.........

you talkin' to me? i'll go by! yep, hl45 is the dude!

MrMMJ · Jun 24, 2017

I live in a huge rice producing County here in NorCal, so hulls are cheap and readily available. They're loaded with silica, and many outdoor growers mix it in. Unfortunately, rice is a crop that is heavily sprayed for weeds and pests. After watching the bi-planes douche these fields for years, I'd never consider using it myself. If organic hulls can be sourced though, I'd say give'em a try....

datal4b · Jun 25, 2017

sorry but total noob question,

with wave pulses are you ever feeding during lights off?

Speed of green · Jun 26, 2017

datal4b said:
sorry but total noob question,

with wave pulses are you ever feeding during lights off?

They feed round the clock, every 90 min.

Mine do at least.

bloyd · Jun 26, 2017

delta9nxs said:
i bought "Hemp Diseases And Pests, Management And Biological Control" and i disagree with the strategy of "scouting" until you find something and then treating for it.

this may work in isolated pharmaceautical environments but in the world of the down and dirty everday grower it's a recipe for disaster.

i assume the presence of all known pests at all times. i assume that they are there in low numbers and that i can't totally eradicate them so therefore i must practice ruthless suppression.

i think this mindset keeps you on top of the little bastards. you're not paranoid if they really are out to get you!

Hey d9 mind expanding on what your current ipm consists of?

delta9nxs · Jun 27, 2017

bloyd said:
Hey d9 mind expanding on what your current ipm consists of?

well, it isn't totally evolved yet but;

1. overall cleanliness. floors are swept and vacumned regularly. no leaves or debris is left laying around. plant trash is bagged and sealed.

2. when a plant is harvested, the area around it, the scrog frame, buckets, and hoses, are sprayed with h2o2 pool shock.

3. you'll notice i don't grow plants touching one another.

4. when we transplant from the intermediate veg room into the final grow container the top of the medium is given a dusting of diatomaceous earth.

5. they are also painted with a 2" band of "tanglefoot" just above the medium but before the first branches.

6. clones are not treated until rooted and transplanted into the intermediate veg room but then begin a twice a week regime of 1 oz per gallon neem to 1/2 oz per gal dr. bronners blue label peppermint soap and 1 oz per gal of 91% isopropyl alcohol. the key to success using this is to stay religiously on schedule. neem applications are terminated upon flowering.

7. in flower we are trying to keep the branches below the screens free of growth. they get another application of tanglefoot here. we spray the lower branches with green cleaner twice a week and spray the room in general with h2o2 regularly.

8. we have been hanging swirkii mites on the plants in flower although i'm looking at other predators too.

Snook · Jun 28, 2017

delta9nxs said:
well, it isn't totally evolved yet but;

1. overall cleanliness. floors are swept and vacumned regularly. no leaves or debris is left laying around. plant trash is bagged and sealed.

2. when a plant is harvested, the area around it, the scrog frame, buckets, and hoses, are sprayed with h2o2 pool shock.

3. you'll notice i don't grow plants touching one another.

4. when we transplant from the intermediate veg room into the final grow container the top of the medium is given a dusting of diatomaceous earth.

5. they are also painted with a 2" band of "tanglefoot" just above the medium but before the first branches.

6. clones are not treated until rooted and transplanted into the intermediate veg room but then begin a twice a week regime of 1 oz per gallon neem to 1/2 oz per gal dr. bronners blue label peppermint soap and 1 oz per gal of 91% isopropyl alcohol. the key to success using this is to stay religiously on schedule. neem applications are terminated upon flowering.

7. in flower we are trying to keep the branches below the screens free of growth. they get another application of tanglefoot here. we spray the lower branches with green cleaner twice a week and spray the room in general with h2o2 regularly.

8. we have been hanging swirkii mites on the plants in flower although i'm looking at other predators too.

very precise, thank you for your input and you know that I think you're the man but Where TF did they find you :tiphat:

!? peppermint soap!

Truth? you put your dress ties ina draw, arranged by color. :biggrin:

gmanwho · Jun 28, 2017

delta9nxs said:
6. clones are not treated until rooted and transplanted into the intermediate veg room but then begin a twice a week regime of 1 oz per gallon neem to 1/2 oz per gal dr. bronners blue label peppermint soap and 1 oz per gal of 91% isopropyl alcohol. the key to success using this is to stay religiously on schedule. neem applications are terminated upon flowering.

7. in flower we are trying to keep the branches below the screens free of growth. they get another application of tanglefoot here. we spray the lower branches with green cleaner twice a week and spray the room in general with h2o2 regularly.

on #6. the neem & peppermint soap an iso, that root drenched an foliar? the iso to quick kill off any mildew fungal that may be on the leaves like pm?, or root zone.

on #7. the green cleaner, u mean like simple green, or the bio green cleaner u see in hydro stores? u know if they are the same?

the h202 pool shock, thats a hydrogen peroxide pool shock. dont think i seen a h202 pool shock, just a chlorine type shock. curious on the h202 pool shock. cause im sure its cheap an goes a long way. been looking for another affordable but effective cleaner other then bleach.

i love that tangle foot too. u put the tangle foot paper wrap on the stem before the tangle foot? been getting some weird formations at the area where been applying the tangle foot. im wondering if its hindering any water uptake due to stem/bark damage.

awesome..............thanks for the tips. fight the fight!

delta9nxs · Jun 29, 2017

Snook said:
very precise, thank you for your input and you know that I think you're the man but Where TF did they find you!? peppermint soap!

Truth? you put your dress ties ina draw, arranged by color.

regular old dr bronner's! i guess you don't have any hippies where you are!

i haven't worn a tie since 1985. ties are weird anyway! i did have them arranged by color, black! just like you arrange your undies by color, white!

delta9nxs · Jun 29, 2017

gmanwho said:
on #6. the neem & peppermint soap an iso, that root drenched an foliar? the iso to quick kill off any mildew fungal that may be on the leaves like pm?, or root zone.

on #7. the green cleaner, u mean like simple green, or the bio green cleaner u see in hydro stores? u know if they are the same?

the h202 pool shock, thats a hydrogen peroxide pool shock. dont think i seen a h202 pool shock, just a chlorine type shock. curious on the h202 pool shock. cause im sure its cheap an goes a long way. been looking for another affordable but effective cleaner other then bleach.

i love that tangle foot too. u put the tangle foot paper wrap on the stem before the tangle foot? been getting some weird formations at the area where been applying the tangle foot. im wondering if its hindering any water uptake due to stem/bark damage.

awesome..............thanks for the tips. fight the fight!

i'm just using the neem as a foliar. i have the reflectix covers over the medium so probably not much gets to the roots. alcohol is a catalyst for oil and water.

i've had bleach gas build up in a room to the point where it damaged plants before. this stuff is 27% h2o2 so i dilute it with at least 3 parts water. it's still 2.5 times stronger than the stuff at the drugstore and will burn your skin so wear protection. we use vinyl shop aprons and goggles, respirators.

Aquashield or Baquacil are some brand names. 16.95 a gal at pool supply places.

this green cleaner: http://www.arbico-organics.com/product/green-cleaner-mite-control/mite-control.

we wrap masking tape around the stem before the tanglefoot.

another thing that i did not mention that i think is real important for stopping mites and other crawling, wingless pests is that i don't tolerate flying bugs of any kind. i think most of us have seen that picture of 5 or 6 broad mites riding around on an aphid.

co2 above about 2200 ppm closes stomata and shuts down respiration but the plants can tolerate it for short periods of time with no ill effect.

so about once a month i have been opening up a cylinder in the flower rooms and running the ppm up over 10,000 ppm. it pegs the monitors and my handheld co2 meter.

this kills most but not all invertebrate life in the room. just making it more difficult for pests to proliferate.

Snook · Jun 30, 2017

delta9nxs said:
regular old dr bronner's! i guess you don't have any hippies where you are!

i haven't worn a tie since 1985. ties are weird anyway! i did have them arranged by color, black! just like you arrange your undies by color, white!

I asked you not to mention my undies... :moon:

delta9nxs · Jun 30, 2017

Snook said:
I asked you not to mention my undies...

sorry, sweetheart!

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