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Making the Ideal Garden Soil From Clay.

G.O. Joe

Well-known member
Veteran
Alfalfa roots are the best bet for penetrating and enriching clay. Personally I would not add inorganic material, clay is plenty inorganic already.
 

zachrockbadenof

Well-known member
Veteran
our soil was pretty much clay... we add a shit-load of compost every spring, and plants winter rye in the fall which gets tilled under every spring... we grow our veggies' with little add. ferts.. no need...
 

skullznroses

that aint nothing but 10 cent lovin
Veteran
I used to work for someone who advocated Jersey Greensand for this problem.

A cheaper alternative to peat might be using hay. Check for a book called Green Thumbs Garden collection or something along this for actual technical data. THe idea is to plant into the hay bales, and then turn them into the soil at the end of a season.
 

Infinitesimal

my strength is a number, and my soul lies in every
ICMag Donor
Veteran
check out the benefits of using Leonardite to restore soil quality


How Humic Acid is Created

Humic acid is primarily found in manure, peat, lignite coal, and leonardite. Leonardite, a highly oxidized form of organic matter, is technically known as a low rank coal between peat and sub-bituminous. The humic acid used in the manufacture of Potassium Humate is derived from a type of leonardite lignite blend that differs from its theoretical formula: part of its chemical structure has been oxidized away. These broken bonds create places on the molecules where micronutrient ions can be absorbed. The oxidized sites give the entire molecule a negative charge enabling it to absorb micronutrients as shown below.



Oxidized humic acid molecule. The organic structure of humic acid is naturally oxidized, as shown by the asterisks, giving it a negative charge. Positive ions, attracted to broken bonds at the site of the oxidation, create sites for micronutrients and microflora to attach.

How It Absorbs Ions

Humic acid absorbs ions like aluminum relatively easily. We take advantage of this natural tendency by treating leonardite and Lignite with potassium hydroxide. The oxidized sites on the molecule are saturated with potassium, which is readily exchanged for all major micronutrient ions in the soil. Treating leonardite and Lignite ore with potassium hydroxide also raises its pH to 11, pushes the acids to their maximum solubility, and stabilizes hydrocolloids in suspension, as shown below.



Leonardite ore saturated with potassium. Treating leonardite ore with potassium hydroxide saturates the oxidized sites with potassium, which can be readily exchanged for all major micronutrients found in soil.

We also treat leonardite ore with hydrogen peroxide. This liberates humic acid molecules from contaminants such as clay, shale, gypsum, silica, and fossilized organic matter found in the ore. These make up about 15% of the ore. Of course, not all of the remaining humic acid is active. Some is irreversibly combined with crystallized minerals and some is polymerized into insoluble molecules. Only about half the leonardite ore can be successfully converted to humic acid. The rest must be settled out of the solution before it can be used. The solution is then filtered, and prepared for distribution or dried to produce granular Potassium Humate.

Why Humic Acid from Leonardite

The maximum saturation we have been able to achieve with highly active humic acid is 16%. Humic acid salts begin to precipitate if we increase the solids content above this figure. Any humic acid product that claims to contain more than 16% humic acid solids actually contains a smaller percentage of active acids plus inactive and often times insoluble particles. The inactive and insoluble portions add nothing to the solution but instead plug irrigation and spray distribution equipment.

Humic acid extracted from manure or peat is usually not as effective in absorbing micronutrients as humic acid originating in leonardite. Similarly, lignite-based humic acid performs poorly as a growth stimulator unless it is partially oxidized. This usually adds considerably to the product's cost. Leonardite has been oxidized by nature, resulting in a highly active humic acid at reasonable cost. Humic acid extracted from leonardite is an excellent balance of effectiveness and low cost.

How Humic Acid Works

Humic acid improves plant growth in several ways:

Clay Disaggregation
Water Penetration Enabled
Micronutrient Transference, and
Water Sequestration
Clay Disaggregation

Clay particles normally lay together flat as shown below.



Soils with high clay content can become so dense and compact that they may resist plant rooting. This may happen for one of two reasons: First, the salt in the soil has neutralized the negative electrical charges which normally cause clay particles to repel each other as shown below.



Second, the percentage of clay in the soil is so high that the positive charge on the edge of a clay particle combines with the negative charge on the flat surface of another, forming a tight three-dimensional structure as shown here.



Water Penetration Enabled

Humic acid causes the clay particles to stand on end, allowing water penetration. It does this in two ways.

First, it segregates salts and removes them from the surface of the clay particle. The net negative charge resulting causes the clay particles to repel each other, loosening the soil structure.
Second, a carbon group on the humic acid molecule (carboxyl group) bonds with the edge of the positively charged particles. This breaks the attractive force between the positive charge at the edge of a particle and the negative charge or the flat surface of another (see below).

This action, called protective colloidal action, loosens soil, letting roots penetrate more easily. Humic acid's effect on clay soil is more evident as time passes. In heavy clay soils, six months or more may be needed before you will see a noticeable improvement in the soil's density. The sooner you add Humic Acids or Potassium Humates, the greater its impact on your soil and future crop production.

Micronutrient Transference

Humic acid can acquire positive ions under one condition and release them when conditions change. It picks up ions depending on the availability of a different ion to replace the one released. Positive ions are called cations and the pickup and release property is called cation exchange capacity. Humic acid holds cations so they can be absorbed by a plant's root, improving micronutrient exchange and transference to the plant's circulation system.



The transference mechanism is not completely understood, but soil scientists theorize that as the plant absorbs water, the humic acids (carrying the absorbed micronutrients) move into close proximity to the root system. Since the root system is negatively charged, when the humic acid moves close to the root, the root's negative charge exceeds the acid's negative charge. The micronutrients are released from the humic acid molecule and enter the root membrane. Some researchers, especially in Europe, believe that the shorter_chain humic acid and the attached micronutrients are actually absorbed and metabolized by the plant. Humic acid is extremely important as a medium for transporting nutrients from the soil to the plant.

Water Sequestration

Humic acid slows water evaporation from soils. This is especially important in soils where clay is not present or in a low concentration, in arid areas, and in sandy soils without the capability to hold water. In the presence of water, cations absorbed by humic acid partially ionize and move a short distance away from the humic acid oxidation sites. This restores part of the bonded ion's positive attractive force. Water sequestration by humic acid is illustrated below.



Since water is a dipolar molecule and electrically neutral, the end of the molecule containing the oxygen atom loosely bonds to the ion. The hydrogen or negative end of the water molecule is partially neutralized, and as a result, increases the hydrogen end's positive attracting force. The oxygen (or negative) end of another water molecule bonds with the hydrogen end and this continues until the attractive force of the water molecule is dissipated.



This effect reduces the evaporation rate by about 30% as shown below. Humic acid can significantly reduce water evaporation and increase its use by plants in non-clay, arid, and sandy soils.



Microorganism Stimulation

Humic acid becomes a source of phosphate and carbon, stimulating microflora populations. It also provide sites for microflora to colonize. The bacteria secrete enzymes which act as catalysts, liberating calcium and phosphorous from insoluble calcium phosphate, and iron and phosphorous from insoluble iron phosphate. As the calcium, phosphorous, and iron elements are liberated, they are absorbed by the humic acid present, making the elements less available to the bacteria.

The bacteria are further stimulated to secrete additional enzymes, liberating more calcium, iron, and phosphorous, until both the humic acid and bacterial populations are satisfied. In the same way, trace nutrients are also converted into forms more easily used by the plant.

Seed Germination

Humic acid's effect on seed germination is similar to its effect on rooted plants. Humic acid, carrying both micronutrients and water, is drawn into the seed through the pore, stimulating growth of the radical. The mechanism for transference appears to be similar to that of indole butyric acid, but the exact method is unknown. Not only do seeds germinate faster when humic acid is present, but a higher percentage of seeds germinate. Increased seed germination rates cut seed costs and improve plot usage. Enhanced stimulation of seed germination using Humic Acid Solution can compensate for cool or rainy conditions and give growers a wider margin of safety.

Fertilizer Use

Whenever possible, use Humic Acid Solution with fertilizer. Humic acid's ability to absorb fertilizer components and increases their release to plants is well documented. If you make judicious use of humic acid and fertilizer, you will improve the performance of marginally fertile soils, of soils with low native organic matter, and of crops grown in arid regions.
 
S

SeaMaiden

I've got straw bales going for pole and bush beans. It'll slowly get lower and lower, but as it does, it makes a nice layer of soil on top of the clay. Bales have been in place since last year, so they're already well started on composting.
 

AFP

New member
Luckily I have a building supply place less than 5 minutes from me with 100s of tons of sand. Last year I added probably 500+ pounds of sand and it helped but it wasn't enough.


Sand + Clay = Cement. This can ball up into hard rocks. Some sand can also contain lots of sodium and requires rinsing to remove it. A little advice from Cervantes and the Growers Bible. Be careful with the sand.
 
Im tired of dealing with the clay. lime, sand, aged manuer, leaves & compost. It grows but I think I may start to build raised beds using potting soil and other to make a larger yeild with a smaller space. it is expensive so I will start with a few every year till its complete
 

a420head

New member
Tought to share one story of growing in a clay field. I don't know if it helps, but at least it worked for us.
I'v been told that first there was some of the top of the clay removed, maybe 10cm or so. Then 15cm of sand added. The plot was then plowed deep, so the sand would mix with some clay. After that more sand was added, maybe 10-15cm. The plot was plowed again to mix a bit less clay to the top layer. Then plenty of composted cowshit/straw was added and mixed with the top layer.
Every autumn the plot would be plowed, some more composted cowshit/straw would be added and mixed with the top layer. Some 5 years or so apart, some sand, maybe 3-5cm was added to the top before plowing.
Same plot was used at least 20 years before I were born and it's still used the same way, 30 years after.
This plot was about 7-8x15-20meters, depending on how much was planted.
This would grow anything that was ever planted there. Potatoes, carrots, onions, peas, salads, herbs etc. Some plants(like tomatoes and cucumbers) had to be grown in a greenhouse, because of the climate here, but those were grown with similar way.
No chems, all organic. And a lot of picking off the weeds, because everything grew so well there. Especially the weeds :)
 

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