Thinking of using local soil...maybe?

guest2012y · Oct 8, 2011

Chong_Irie said:
That's beautiful Capt, what you running?

Freakin' everything...New this Round some 20 year old NL/Haze from the first release in what was it..1989? F2's from a selected breeding in 91....pulled out of the freezer after 20 years and popped this spring.

Found favor in the Durban Poison X BMR and the Nigerian landrace x BMR....so running a few of those..

Bunch of G13/Haze..and a bunch of LVPK...plus other goodies.

Got that Hawaiian Kush regenerated and kicking out the cuts...

River-Running · Oct 8, 2011

Are you using molasses and dolomite line? You do know that cannabis is a calcium and magnesium hungry plant.

Dolomite lime tea is the shitz! Huge buds will be your reward from what I've read. You can never get enough magnesium in your soil when growing cannabis and you probably already know about calcium.

RR

mad librettist · Oct 8, 2011

River-Running said:
Are you using molasses and dolomite line? You do know that cannabis is a calcium and magnesium hungry plant.

Dolomite lime tea is the shitz! Huge buds will be your reward from what I've read. You can never get enough magnesium in your soil when growing cannabis and you probably already know about calcium.

RR

I would not recommend dolomite in tea, or any lime in tea.

Lime needs to be applied according to a formula if it's going directly to the soil (as opposed to sprinkling on your worm bin). Overdoing it will cause problems. People who re-use peat based mixes get into trouble when they re-amend and forget to leave out the lime.

Lime goes in ONCE, to treat the peat. Once the peat is treated it does not need re-liming. Only adding more peat will require more lime.

My non peat based mixes get no dolomite or other lime added. Worm castings are packed with calcium as calcium is necessary to worm digestion (via the calciferous gland). Worm castings also provide everything else a plant needs.

Lime is for buffering acidic substrates like peat. Lime should always be measured out and applied according to a formula.

guest2012y · Oct 8, 2011

River-Running said:
Are you using molasses and dolomite line? You do know that cannabis is a calcium and magnesium hungry plant.

Dolomite lime tea is the shitz! Huge buds will be your reward from what I've read. You can never get enough magnesium in your soil when growing cannabis and you probably already know about calcium.

RR

Read the whole thread Yo.......that's nonsense.
Heads up..
CC1

heady blunts · Oct 8, 2011

i love your soil too capt

GeorgeSmiley · Oct 8, 2011

mad librettist said:
I would not recommend dolomite in tea, or any lime in tea.

Lime needs to be applied according to a formula if it's going directly to the soil (as opposed to sprinkling on your worm bin). Overdoing it will cause problems. People who re-use peat based mixes get into trouble when they re-amend and forget to leave out the lime.

Lime goes in ONCE, to treat the peat. Once the peat is treated it does not need re-liming. Only adding more peat will require more lime.

My non peat based mixes get no dolomite or other lime added. Worm castings are packed with calcium as calcium is necessary to worm digestion (via the calciferous gland). Worm castings also provide everything else a plant needs.

Lime is for buffering acidic substrates like peat. Lime should always be measured out and applied according to a formula.

Very well said,This methodology has been working extremely well for me and my recycled soil.

Cheers
Smiley

guest2012y · Oct 8, 2011

GeorgeSmiley said:
Very well said,This methodology has been working extremely well for me and my recycled soil.

Cheers
Smiley

George my man where ya' been?...still recycling I see..sweet deal eh?
:wave:

mad librettist · Oct 8, 2011

looks like I've been had!

very funny.

welcome (back) RR

big_daddy · Oct 9, 2011

Capt.Cheeze1 said:
Hey dude,let's fire this thing up again...

Recycled organic living soil....getting it. I love my soil....man I love my soil...
CC1

Fuckin huge props Captain.....you got the soil/no till thing to a science man. Your grow room is a thing of beauty for sure.

b_d

River-Running · Oct 9, 2011

Overall not a bad job but if you look closely at the second photo and count back 10 rows and then the 14th plant to the left - on the second branch you can see some discoloration on the tips.

Could it be a Boron-Barium deficiency?

SilverSurfer_OG · Oct 9, 2011

River-Running said:
Overall not a bad job but if you look closely at the second photo and count back 10 rows and then the 14th plant to the left - on the second branch you can see some discoloration on the tips.

Could it be a Boron-Barium deficiency?

No its clearly ph related!

guest2012y · Oct 9, 2011

River-Running said:
Overall not a bad job but if you look closely at the second photo and count back 10 rows and then the 14th plant to the left - on the second branch you can see some discoloration on the tips.

Could it be a Boron-Barium deficiency?

Oh man really...what should I do? Did I not use enough Macro-Boost?

Fuck! Is there hope....should I check out the AN line or the Swami K line of nutes? They are both the same right?

River-Running · Oct 9, 2011

I'd go with molasses - hell it fixes everything else!

I tried flushing with molasses and it really makes a mess of your Fruit of The Loom undies. There must be a better way!

W.P.O.D. - The Tubes

VerdantGreen · Oct 9, 2011

one of the leaves in the second row back is showing slight molybdenum toxicity - a good flush should sort it

---

on a more serious note, im pretty sure that the weed from the bark based soil-less mix is not as pungent and tasty as my old proper soil mix with topsoil in it. interestingly all the ferts were kept exactly the same in both mixes - guano and all. im doing a side by side this round with blueberry and sharksbreath so i should know for sure...

VG

River-Running · Oct 9, 2011

CC1

I have some organic compost that is about 50% leaf mold - not exactly finished but I have it to work some of it in the worm bins and let the rest sit until spring when it should be fully cured.

Cheap enough - 3 yards, screened, was $100.00 at pick-up. Black, black black - beautiful stuff.

RR

rrog · Oct 9, 2011

When turning my compost pile I see a light blue-green substance I assume is mold or fungus. Might this be the leaf mold often referenced?

Microbeman · Oct 9, 2011

River-Running said:
CC1

I have some organic compost that is about 50% leaf mold - not exactly finished but I have it to work some of it in the worm bins and let the rest sit until spring when it should be fully cured.

Cheap enough - 3 yards, screened, was $100.00 at pick-up. Black, black black - beautiful stuff.

RR

Don't you know nothing??? Not black! Black compost is bad! Dark brown is what you want ~ E. Ingham

guest2012y · Oct 9, 2011

Microbeman said:
Don't you know nothing??? Not black! Black compost is bad! Dark brown is what you want ~ E. Ingham

Wow thanks MM...
leave it up to MM to lay down the gospel from Dr. "I" ...savin' our ass out here! Brown...not black...brown..change thinking.

Yeah what was I thinking,my soil is black,like black compost. How can I "brown up" my soil MM?

big_daddy · Oct 10, 2011

Capt.Cheeze1 said:
How can I "brown up" my soil?

River-Running · Oct 10, 2011

Microbeman said:
Don't you know nothing??? Not black! Black compost is bad! Dark brown is what you want ~ E. Ingham

Well - she IS Chief Scientist at The Rodale Institute - the news of which was received with 'shock & awe' by the science community.

Thinking of using local soil...maybe?

Living with the soil

Member

Active member

Living with the soil

prescription blunts

Remembers

Living with the soil

Active member

Member

Member

Living Organic Soil...

Living with the soil

Member

Genetics Facilitator

Member

Active member

The Logical Gardener

Living with the soil

Member

Member