[roasthawg]

Originally Posted by Granger2

If you're going to do the Orthene method go all the way with Eclipse's method. Why go half way? He also uses Pyrethrin with PBO. Search the Fungus Gnats or Winged RA thread. Full instructions there, including relation of pH to plant phytoxicity when using. It's possible to temporarily raise or lower pH to avoid phytotoxicity. Good luck. -granger

I did use the riptide too. Used riptide at 2ml/gal and orthene at either 1.5 or 1 ml/gal. Have done this on multiple occasions... kills the aphids everytime but also fries my plants. I have always mixed in with nutes though which clearly may be my problem.

[Granger2]

roasthawg,
I would not use nutes with Eclipse's regime. Also search for the pH posts, and raise or lower pH according to what is needed to avoid phytotoxicity. I would use pH'd water to raise or lower pH just prior to Orthene/Riptide soak. If you keep getting re-infested, try area sprays-walls, floor, doors, containers incl bottoms. Are you doing the 30 min soak? The long soak is necessary to get the *entire* root ball soaked incl just under the base of plant, which is RA Central. Good luck. -granger

[Bongstar420]

Got RA?

Drench in Beauveria/Metarhizium twice 3 days apart. Add aminos and a little sugar. For your second drench, add immunoboosters to it. After the 6th day, drench in spirotetramat/imidacloprid full dose with surfactant. Reason for this is spirotetramat/imidacloprid + surfactant will inhibit Beauveria somewhat and work better if you let the beauveria kill run its course, then drench the chems. If you do foliar of spiro, you can reduce the amount you use and the effect is good. Imida won't work the foliar route on RA. They are a good combo showing 90% kill after 14 days in field trials. For field trial, that is good. No need for overdosing. Just go standard rates on label.

I've got 100% kill on areal aphids with Beauveria spray...just bag the plant for 24hrs after spray, nothing survives it. Works as well on mite, even eriophyid/tarsonemid mtes (needs an additional compatible surfactant to get into the tiny cracks though- combo with insecticidal soap is great) .

I've ignored RA to the point they covered the floor with walkers (up to 5 per square inch near pots). Hardly saw winged ones though. Harvested good stuff with low yield

You can get kill with avid drench...it works on nematodes too, provides some residual inhibition of the todes- abamectin has a really long half life in soil. Aba will only work on contact with aphid...so after a couple hrs, any activity will have stopped because the aba strongly binds to particles.

I grow with them around all the time. Get em every year at my last homestead. Its because I keep houseplants that go in and out every year and I don't care a whole lot about it. For a commercial op, I'd add a bunch of other stuff and not end up treating for em in the first place (some of your standard bennies inhibit aphid in the soil).

I tried stuff like acephate. Killed most of the plants in the room. Still had the aphid. The protocol above works well if you can get a few hundy together for it (the cheapest units are like 80 a pop with this stuff, but you will have a life supply as an individual grower; the beauveria won't last a lifetime though, but you can figure out how to make your own supply if you try and reup your spores every few years)