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Old 02-10-2018, 08:38 PM #11
Douglas.Curtis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trichrider View Post
i don't flush, i fade. it works for me.
i rarely put anything other than water on them either, all nutrients are already in the medium. occasionally foliar feed if/when problems arise.
I fade, then r/o flush for 5-7 days. Strictly hydro though.
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Old 02-11-2018, 10:13 PM #12
larry badiner
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Originally Posted by Gr33nSanta View Post
regardless, I shoot for as faded as possible, whether lock out and whatnot at harvest I want my plants to be starving. I do not always succeed and the weed is often very good with lush green plants but nothing comes close to a fully faded plant.
what does faded mean?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaventa View Post
You could try flushing with distilled water - it has a much better capacity to leach or wash out salts. Even water with 200 ppm has none of that positive charge to bind to negatively charged molecules like salts. It’s like trying to pick up more stuff when your hands are already full so when you try you even drop some of what you already have. Water does the same if it 200 ppm - it actually leaves stuff, it doesn't collect or clear anything.

A week after starting to use 000 ppm water. All the limescale in my kettle is gone. I guess it went through me but that was a while ago so by now my insides must be as shiny as the inside of my kettle
i cant use r/o water, i have a 55 gallon rez for my main tent, 20 gallon on my 2x4 ebb table, and i have a tent for mother plants. its just too much work carrying that much water around
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Old 02-11-2018, 10:49 PM #13
BakedBandit
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PRetty easy to get ro filter to fill your Rez directly with a float switch, or pump water to your Rez from wherever your ro filter is.
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Old 02-12-2018, 12:39 AM #14
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Plastic 55gal food grade drum, $10 aquarium pump, hose, float valve. Run the r/o to the drum with the float valve for a shutoff. Run the pump and use the hose to move it places.

Quality is worth the expense and effort to work with r/o

My def of "the fade" is to maintain nearly the same transpiration rate during oil production as during flower production. I accomplish this by keeping the nutrient strength at a very slightly lower strength than the plant wants. They end up using any stored reserves of minerals and are yellow/tan/gold at harvest time instead of green.
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