[Drop That Sound]

Here is the plans so far. Which config would you pick? I'm still deciding, before I run to the hardware store.

Or, there's a blank to edit in case anyone wants to make a suggestion..

Maybe put pumps in control res cabinet (not much room at all), or
just simply pull from the reservoirs to the "house" and pump back to each tote? I would prefer undercurrent though.



Will be using 2 inch manifolds & bulkheads, and down to 3/4 for the return pipes\fittings. Probably use more flexible black tubing with fittings from the pump, and through the wall to the res cab.

2x 396gph pumps, 2x 18 watt commercial air pumps. Also one 50 gallon top off res w/ 2 float valves. Stay tuned as I update for custom air diffusers.

Like to keep the center area in between systems clear for work space.. to lay in if possible. Gonna be a tight fit now! Sometimes I string up this 12' or so area between the 2 scrog nets, it grows the best between bulbs.

Settled in on this plan, as totes have more capacity, and less plumbing than smaller containers.

I also like my idea of using a smaller matching tote for a "pump house", to minimize spills, etc. Can shutoff the valves + unscrew the unions to remove the whole tote for maintanence.

I would also like to house the filters in there too, but unsure about system B. Being farther away, is it better to go with 2 inch return pipe to the house tote, is a long 3/4 run before it even gets to the filter more likely to clog?

The filter is usually on the manifold at the end of rows, where 2 inch reduces to 1/2 - 3/4', as it should be... I think I should be ok with it being farther away though...

[Drop That Sound]

Here's the Blank. Will upload a pic of the room later.

[~SpacedCWBY~]

with the number of plants you want to have and the footprint you are working with I think you'd be better off running 5 gallon pails in 5 rows, north and south by your drawing, 4 per row. Use 2" between the buckets to a 4" return line on the backside and back to the epicenter. The way you're looking at it now could make things difficult to maintain down the road.

[~SpacedCWBY~]

Probably have to go to 4 x 4 with two main rows. if the sides are blocked.

[queequeg152]

you might consider a small spa cartrige filter instead of y strainers, or even a pentair type treatment cartrige filter( big blue type filter housing).

the problem with pool/spa cartrige filters is that its sometimes hard to get filter elements locally.

with a spa cartridge filter you will get a much better filtration with a fraction of the pressure drop( at the flow rates you are talking about), and the filter element is accessable from the top.

with the big blue type cartrige filters the plumbing comes into the top... so you cannot just unscrew the top portion without expensive unions.

i like to reccomend these because if you keep things reasonably sanitary you should not need to clean or replace the elements but once a few months maximum. these cartrige filters also ... almost always have provisions for a pressure gauge too. some have a pressure gauge port that is not threaded and tapped at the factory though, so watch out for that.
you will need a drill bit and cheap tap if thats the case.

[Drop That Sound]

Originally Posted by ~SpacedCWBY~

with the number of plants you want to have and the footprint you are working with I think you'd be better off running 5 gallon pails in 5 rows, north and south by your drawing, 4 per row. Use 2" between the buckets to a 4" return line on the backside and back to the epicenter. The way you're looking at it now could make things difficult to maintain down the road.

Hey CWBY, howdy

Ya I originally planned the room for 4-6 buckets on each side. I even bought a 12 pack of 3.5 rounds over a year ago. I could of managed 5 gals but my ceiling is at 6' and the extra few inches always helps.

4.5 square pails are probably ideal for my situation, but I don't wanna pay shipping lol. They add up quick otherwise. Not to bad though really, I think theres a ware house 50-60 miles away.

Had my eye on sterilite 7.5 gal stackers for awhile, cheap and local, nice dark lids.

Even the new opaque hefty hi-rise totes the stores are carrying look nice. The 32 qt for each site.

Is it bad when you start memorizing the dimensions to every single tote, bucket, container, etc from every store or supplier there ever was?

For sure though. I can stuff 2 classic double row bucket setups with res right in the room..





And about those obnoxious blocks I have to plumb\work around, I'm sure a few have guessed what they are by now. Was gonna save that for a complete build thread later this year..

[Drop That Sound]

Originally Posted by queequeg152

you might consider a small spa cartrige filter instead of y strainers, or even a pentair type treatment cartrige filter( big blue type filter housing).

the problem with pool/spa cartrige filters is that its sometimes hard to get filter elements locally.

with a spa cartridge filter you will get a much better filtration with a fraction of the pressure drop( at the flow rates you are talking about), and the filter element is accessable from the top.

with the big blue type cartrige filters the plumbing comes into the top... so you cannot just unscrew the top portion without expensive unions.

i like to recommend these because if you keep things reasonably sanitary you should not need to clean or replace the elements but once a few months maximum. these cartrige filters also ... almost always have provisions for a pressure gauge too. some have a pressure gauge port that is not threaded and tapped at the factory though, so watch out for that.
you will need a drill bit and cheap tap if thats the case.

queequeg, glad you stopped by;

yep the filter can be a huge bottleneck, it literally is one. in my case though, on System B with a remote filter config.. it's a reeeeaaal long one. But overall yes I agree, the filter is kinda like the return artery to the heart(the pumps), should flow nice and free!

I cant help but picture debres and roots crawling up in that area and clogging the filter. No matter where I put it. I just been running my pumps in the res the last few temp setups i made. Yet to even use a strainer.

Hopefully my 4'+ piece of translucent 2" pvc I got layin around can help with that. Could do a small section before the filter, and keep a sleeve over it when im not inspecting.. Other problem areas too... Clear spud gun project can wait i suppose.



So anyways I bet you picked config 1 then, ya? Filters closest to the source. Seems most logical.

The filters would actually be nice back there. Right next to my 1.5 inch floor drain\plug, so when i open the flexible drain pipe valves (not shown on plans yet), it might even backwash some crud back from the screen and through the 2" Tee\Reducer manifold, and right down the drain a few inches away. Oh the drain is flush too, and I could squeegie any spills into the hole.

Or would you pull through both totes in parallel, like Plan config 5.





So I have looked at the bigger y-strainers, 1 1/2'' even 2'' for like $25 and up, and up , and up , all the way up to the the $2-300 translucent ones. Ya...

Figured that hell I could just buy a few more of these cheap 3/4 rain birds you probably already know I got sitting here lol. Then make dual or even triple 3/4' rainbird filter manifolds. 2 is better than one right?

Or should I say, you can't kill two birds with one sto... rootball




Been thinking about it a lot. Also about making my own canister type filters. Or even large y fitting strainers from scratch, always prefer DIY unless I have to buy something. Even pull through a seperate container and use the mesh from a regular furnace filter.

But yeah def I want to keep it sterile, don't want to colonize it with bacteria much, like I would in my 3 stage aquarium filter.






Spa filters: So, big, lots of surface area around the cartrige, less chance of clogs. Unscrew the top. I like it. I would rather build my own housings and just buy the filters unless I can find a few for cheap.

Going to check around. I think I have one, well no, just an old hot tub heater. maybe. I'll cut the side off a junk hot tub before i'll spend 50-150$ a peice.

Hmm, but they sure would look f'ing good flush mounted right into the floor. Bring the plumbing down to it. unscrew and pull the filters right up and out of the floor. I'm not opposed to that. It is a brand new floor though..

I want the best for sure.

[Drop That Sound]

More details:



Been waiting forever to build a mostly permanent system going in the flower room. Finally got the floor and enough finish work completed to start the good build. I got plants waiting for it, in those 3.5 dwc buckets of course


I'm about to lay a new floor in the control cabinet, slightly higher level than the flower room on the other side of the wall. And finish with FRP. I will have 7.5 gallon black flip top trash bins for each res. Each has its own door down under the counter top in my main work area. No need to disturb the flower room if I don't want to. I just expect spills\failures to happen so I build accordingly.


Later in the summer, I will likely plumb heat exchangers into each res. Good for now.

I should add that i'll be using cheap 396 GPH ecoplus pumps until they give up the chooch. W'ell see! I've yet to burn out an ecoplus anything.. BTW they apparently have mag drives now.


Roughly 40g total capacity per system.


Scored some bad ass Husky 25 gallon totes yesterday. way better than the yellow lid HDX 27g tough totes (which I bought 4 of too recently), at home depot. The Husky lid is awesome for net pot arraingments, completely light proof, rugged, lower and wider. They make 5, 15, 25, 35, and 45gals.

Although there are 10 sites in both 3.5 x 4.5 growing areas, I don't exactly plan on using them all. But this way I can grow how ever many or whatever configuration I need. Sometimes you run a little late, you know.

Probably start with 8 per side, leaving the middle 3.75" netpot for a small access port. Or vice versa, with one large plant per tote and 4 access ports. However many I want. I can fill the scrog nets with one monster, coming from one tote, bent over as well.

It will be staggered, hence the 2 systems.. 1 side a month.

[Drop That Sound]

Lots more idea's..

Like adding a few valves so i actually could back flush the y strainer filters. With a diaphram pump. If I did that every other day I wouldn't have to constantly unscrew it as much, i would think!

Or running just the return outlet bulkheads down through the bottom of the tote, and run straight under the floor to a new sump pump area, after they go through 2 spa filters. All insulated and boxed in, under the floor.

This room was built for this purpose. I'll be working in it tomorrow and be sure to come through with some pics.

[queequeg152]

Originally Posted by Drop That Sound

queequeg, glad you stopped by;

yep the filter can be a huge bottleneck, it literally is one. in my case though, on System B with a remote filter config.. it's a reeeeaaal long one. But overall yes I agree, the filter is kinda like the return artery to the heart(the pumps), should flow nice and free!

I cant help but picture debres and roots crawling up in that area and clogging the filter. No matter where I put it. I just been running my pumps in the res the last few temp setups i made. Yet to even use a strainer.

Hopefully my 4'+ piece of translucent 2" pvc I got layin around can help with that. Could do a small section before the filter, and keep a sleeve over it when im not inspecting.. Other problem areas too... Clear spud gun project can wait i suppose.



So anyways I bet you picked config 1 then, ya? Filters closest to the source. Seems most logical.

I didnt actually know these were different configurations tbh. i thought they were just mirror images of eachother.

IDK about the root problem tbh. id never considered roots traveling down stream through the plumbing, but its entirely possible.

dont waste too much of that transparent pvc though lol. just make a sight glass dude... 2 inches max imo. transparent pvc is stupid expensive, and shipping anything longer than like 24 inches is outrageous.

off the top of my head i suppose you could just put a knife gate valve in there to cut the roots if they ever made it that far, but idk sounds like a pita to me.

you are talking about a 2" pvc return so id imagine that the roots would never ever be able to block that much cross section given the low velocities here.

The filters would actually be nice back there. Right next to my 1.5 inch floor drain\plug, so when i open the flexible drain pipe valves (not shown on plans yet), it might even backwash some crud back from the screen and through the 2" Tee\Reducer manifold, and right down the drain a few inches away. Oh the drain is flush too, and I could squeegie any spills into the hole.

Or would you pull through both totes in parallel, like Plan config 5.

higher pressure drip systems are my thing tbh, but i i were to build a largish RWDC system like this, i would run a single pump and single filter personally. i would control flow rate by a valve on the suction w/ a pitot style flow meter on the discharge side( 10 pipe diameters after a transition).

im simply thinking about the downtime in between runs though. if you dont mind the extra time in breaking stuff down and cleaning things out than two parallel systems lends you a great deal more flexibility in that you can bring each system online in stages... ie run one system on 2 weeks after the other or what ever.

maby im biased though. i dont do any cleaning at this point. i jsut trash all of my poly piping every other year or so. maby im overestimating the amount of time it would take.

far as all of your piping configurations? they all will work honestly. you should look at from the standpoint of the lowest possible number of fittings.

configuration 4 or 5 is the most reasonable imo.

far as backwashing? remember you are using very small pumps.

in all likelyhood you will simply not develop enough flow rate to effectively back wash anything.

people forget this... but the reason pool pumps are in and around 2hp is in part related to the need to back wash these large ass filters. if you look at the smart pool owners, you will find that yea they have massive 3hp pool pumps... but they are variable speed and running at like 1/2hp (usually alot less) maximum 95% of the time.

lots of HP also helps with vacuuming obiviously... but these days most people are buying electric pool robots to do the vacuuming of leaves and shit and algea dust on the pool floor simply does not require much flow rate.

anyway my point is that i would not worry about backwashign anything. you probably will not have enough power to do it. by all means though try it out.

also rememeber that many of these y strainers have threaded caps on the bottom and some even have valves to back wash debris off of the screens. again though these are intended to be used on hose bibs and shit, so the flow you can develop is going to be huge compared to your pumps.

So I have looked at the bigger y-strainers, 1 1/2'' even 2'' for like $25 and up, and up , and up , all the way up to the the $2-300 translucent ones. Ya...

Figured that hell I could just buy a few more of these cheap 3/4 rain birds you probably already know I got sitting here lol. Then make dual or even triple 3/4' rainbird filter manifolds. 2 is better than one right?

Or should I say, you can't kill two birds with one sto... rootball




Been thinking about it a lot. Also about making my own canister type filters. Or even large y fitting strainers from scratch, always prefer DIY unless I have to buy something. Even pull through a seperate container and use the mesh from a regular furnace filter.

But yeah def I want to keep it sterile, don't want to colonize it with bacteria much, like I would in my 3 stage aquarium filter.

idk about building your own filters. sounds like a pita.

Spa filters: So, big, lots of surface area around the cartrige, less chance of clogs. Unscrew the top. I like it. I would rather build my own housings and just buy the filters unless I can find a few for cheap.

Going to check around. I think I have one, well no, just an old hot tub heater. maybe. I'll cut the side off a junk hot tub before i'll spend 50-150$ a peice.

Hmm, but they sure would look f'ing good flush mounted right into the floor. Bring the plumbing down to it. unscrew and pull the filters right up and out of the floor. I'm not opposed to that. It is a brand new floor though..

I want the best for sure.

i bought my spa filter for like 40 bucks. are they really that expensive now?

are you looking at the massive ones that take 4 individual cartriges or the ones that just take a single 6" cartrige?

i was referring to the ultra small varieities that you see in hot tub spas... they are the squatty little things not the tall slender ones you see on those bigger walmart vinyl pools.

dont bother with the haward or pentair stuff. i got a shitty one from "waterway" i think? its a noname brand, but these things are retarded simple.

there is an internal bypass inside valve mine, but it will never be actuated because the flow rate is far far far below what its intended for.