['Boogieman']

Originally Posted by c00k1eFunk

BOOGIEMAN, if you grow trees like that in a small pot Guerilla outside... you would have mounumental trees in the ground man! I guess you forceflower them for earlyer harvest, but anyways very nice to see these good plants, what you guess from the yield from queen or blueW? around 200gramms?

I need to get something out there to do a size comparison, the Blue widow and Special Queen are in 65 gallon smart pots the rest are in about 30 gallon containers. I just take those round trash bins and cut it a little bit under the handles beats buying pots. I took the pick of the blue widow up in a tree and it looks smaller than it really is but it's my biggest plant and should be about a pound. The special queen I'm guessing 200-250 grams.

The purple Marco's in the ground was really an experiment, I used the 30 gallon pots the year before at that spot and after the grow I dug holes and dumped my soul in it. I think I'm going to do the same this year and plant into the ground next year. The Purple Marco's in ground were very care free all year.

One of my biggest reasons growing in a pot is you can remove everything after a grow and it just looks like deer were bedding down in the area instead of holes with good soil.

['Boogieman']

Originally Posted by MountainBudz

I ended up spraying them all yesterday c00kie. I ended up backing off and waiting on the eagle 20 for now and went ahead and went with some serenade I had on hand at full strength. Gonna give it a try first and if it doesn't knock back the leaf spot and powdery mildew (yes I have that shit on a few plants as well) then I will go with eagle 20. I have "Green Cure" put aside for bud rot for the organic route and for the chemical route (if things get carried away) I always have a bag of water soluble "CAPTAN" on hand.

Thanks bro.

How well does greencure work against bud rot? I have dealt with leaf spot in the past but unfortunately didn't know what it was until way too late. It also destroyed my leaves from the bottom up leaving worthless tops left on the plants. I have noticed ever since I used kelp in soil, as top dresses, and in teas and foliar sprays my plants don't get diseases or even insect damage nearly as much as I used too. Have you considered getting a kelp extract to work with your other preventatives? Kelp extract should natural raise pH of leaves too.

[c00k1eFunk]

horsetail is gold man, try it out its a natural source of silica! will never see pm or leaf spot again. i will continue to spray horsetail extract until harvest, last weeks i will avoid spraying it on the buds too much but i will...

greencure will hit ph hard and should work against must fungi... but it is very water soluble and heavy rains will wash it away.

• Copper-Soap fungicides will help by protecting plants from disease spores. Apply at the start of flowering and continue every 7-10 days until harvest. Fungicidal sprays are especially warranted when weather forecasts predict a long period of cool, wet weather.
• Safely treat most fungal diseases, including Botrytis blight, with SERENADE Garden. This broad spectrum bio-fungicide uses a patented strain of Bacillus subtilis that is registered for organic use. Best of all, SERENADE is completely non-toxic to honey bees and beneficial insects.
• Mycostop, a biological fungicide approved for organic use, has shown suppression of the disease. Direct spray (5 gm/ 50 liters of water) to susceptible leaves, flowers and fruits to point of run-off. Apply every 2-3 weeks, or as needed depending on disease pressure.
• Green Cure Fungicide contains a patented formula of potassium bicarbonate — commonly used in food products — that kills many plant diseases on contact and provides up to 2 weeks of residual protection. At first sign of disease, mix 1-2 Tbsp/ gallon of water and apply to all exposed surfaces of the plant. For best protection, repeat at 1-2 week intervals until conditions are no longer favorable for disease development.

Originally Posted by 'Boogieman'

How well does greencure work against bud rot? I have dealt with leaf spot in the past but unfortunately didn't know what it was until way too late. It also destroyed my leaves from the bottom up leaving worthless tops left on the plants. I have noticed ever since I used kelp in soil, as top dresses, and in teas and foliar sprays my plants don't get diseases or even insect damage nearly as much as I used too. Have you considered getting a kelp extract to work with your other preventatives? Kelp extract should natural raise pH of leaves too.

and Boogieman: Wow, i didnt know it was 65 gallon, your plants are much bigger than i was assuming indeed much less care in groud, at least you can be safe, they wont die in a few days thanx to water chrystals and deep deep root

[c00k1eFunk]

The use of baking soda as a fungicide is not a new idea. In Alfred C. Hottes' A Little Book of Climbing Plants, published in 1933 by the A.T. De La Mare Co. of New York, mention is made of using one ounce of baking soda per gallon of water to control powdery mildew (PM) on climbing roses. The author credits the idea to a Russian plant pathologist, A. de Yaczenski.(1)

In the August, 1985 issue of Organic Gardening magazine, a short article by Warren Shultz entitled "Recipe for Resistance" reports that researchers in Japan obtained effective control of PM on cucumbers, eggplants, and strawberries. They suggested weekly sprays of ¼ ounce baking soda per gallon of water.(2)

An article in the June, 1990 issue of Greenhouse Manager magazine summarizes the results of three years of testing baking soda as a fungicide for roses. Cornell University researcher Dr. R. Kenneth Horst observed suppression of PM and blackspot—both major problems for New York rose growers. Roses were sprayed every 3 to 4 days with a water solution of baking soda and insecticidal soap. The latter was included for its surfactant qualities. (Surfactants are chemical agents that alter the surface properties of a liquid.) The soap improved the effectiveness of the bicarbonate by making it stick to, and spread evenly over, the leaf surface. Further experimentation proved that the insecticidal soap itself was not responsible for suppressing the diseases. While no specific concentration of baking soda is indicated as being most effective in PM suppression, the article states that a 0.5% solution was most effective in preventing blackspot.(3)

Some of the work at Cornell has focused on controlling fungal diseases on cucurbits.(4) A single spray application (to runoff) of 0.5% (wt./vol. of water) baking soda, plus 0.5% (vol./vol. of water) SunSpray UFP® horticultural oil almost completely inhibited PM on heavily infected pumpkin foliage. Baking soda without spray oil was ineffective, and a 2% (wt./vol. of water) solution of baking soda damaged the leaves. Baking soda/oil sprays also provided good control of urocladium leaf spot in cucumber, alternaria leaf blight in muskmelon, and gummy stem blight in muskmelon.(5) Other diseases against which baking soda may prove effective include anthracnose in cucurbits (6); rust, dollar spot, and pythium blight in turf; late blight in potato; rust in wheat; and diseases affecting peanuts, banana, and alfalfa.(7)

Researchers in Israel reported the successful use of baking soda and SunSpray oil in controlling PM on euonymus.(8) In this research a 2% baking soda and 1% oil solution proved most effective.(9)

On-farm observations on melon acreage in Virginia resulted in one farm operation switching from synthetic fungicides to a baking soda/oil spray. These growers incorporated a liquid fertilizer into the mix.(10)

Research in Germany evaluated baking soda as a control for PM on `Bacchus' grapes. Three spray applications were made, beginning when symptoms first appeared. Good control was achieved with no loss of grape quality. The optimum concentration was a 1% solution.(11)

[MountainBudz]

Originally Posted by 'Boogieman'

How well does greencure work against bud rot? I have dealt with leaf spot in the past but unfortunately didn't know what it was until way too late. It also destroyed my leaves from the bottom up leaving worthless tops left on the plants. I have noticed ever since I used kelp in soil, as top dresses, and in teas and foliar sprays my plants don't get diseases or even insect damage nearly as much as I used too. Have you considered getting a kelp extract to work with your other preventatives? Kelp extract should natural raise pH of leaves too.

It is rumored to work really well for most. That's what silver back always used and recommended.

I do use kelp, I use seaweed juice and extract at every other watering and also foliar spray with it very often and routinely through the week. Kelp is some really good stuff. I have noticed the same this year, less insect problems for sure!

[Limeygreen]

Greencure and milstop just have patented spread stickers, milstop has a combo of three of them. If you add a potassium silicate product at the foliar application rate with potassium bicarbonate it's the same thing or even mixed with rhapsody (it has spreader sticker already in it but serenade does not) 850 grammes bicarbonate per 800 litres of water (roughly 1,06 gm per litre). If you test this on a part of the crop first to see any adverse reactions before spraying entire plants and seeing issue, generally spraying any of the premade products or this mix in sunny weather can cause burn, even worse if it is hot out.

[MountainBudz]

Well, a little update on the serenade and the leaf spot septoria and powdery mildew. Wen't and checked the girls out this morning and since spraying serenade the plant's have become progressively worse. Leaves spotted up and yellowed so fast they were standing out like a sore thumb from a good distance. Not what I was expecting to see.

So, as I do not have time for this ridiculous shit, onto the Eagle 20 I will go. This evening gonna give the girls 10 ml a piece of "Immunox" a weaker version of Eagle. And every plant that I have not set out of the safe house yet from indoor to out, will get treated with it as well.

I always resort to chemicals before I sacrifice my entire spring, summer and fall put in of hard back breaking work. Oh well, better luck next year eh?

[VonBudí]

@MountainBudz


sorry but once leaf spot gets in, its in.

you can slow it down by adding silica, picking infected leaves (disposing of infected leaves very important, bury far away) and by giving them some blood meal,( which has obvious side effects and i dont really recommend) this year iv been spray them with one tea spoon of citrus bronners soap to one litre water and that had slowed it down dramatically.

spray wise dont bother with eagle 20 , captan was imo some proper toxic shit.



nothing first hand but my wish of list of sprays for spoty and botrytis are
actinovate, serenade, azoxystrobin based and prestop, ask in the Massachusetts thread about prestop, people are using it this year. You need to be spraying your plants down and infecting them with the these fungicides before they get infected with leafspot.


regalias another option but suppose to be expensive and no better than actinovate.

what had you been spraying the plants down with earlier in the season? was it yourself or ky who were using some sulfur based fungicide last year?

--------------------------
eu folk - serenade, prestop and azoxystrobin are readily available .

potassium bicarbonate/greencure seems to swing in and out of favour on here, seem to remember it needs regular/daily application?

another option, spray all the surrounding plants with copper fungicdes/ eagle 20/captan shit.

hopefully ky makes an appearance, duskray too.

@c00k1eFunk, duskray sprays his plants with horsetail , way too chicken shit to do it myself, that shit stinks, spilt some on my hand last week and stunk and stained for a whole day. , thanks for the Mycostop mention, another to look into.



SNS 244C was another one bookmarket,dont know anymore, maybe have a look.

[c00k1eFunk]

ahahaha, ok it is a little stinky, but bro, nettles and comfrey sitting a month in a tank of water.. this stinks even more , my GF was always angry the flat stinks
serenade, prestop (i think mycostop is the same as prestop)
Pls tell me where to get this in EU?

[VonBudí]

make her some alfala tea next year, she'll love that.

serenade - bayer - Bacillus subtilis
prestop - icl - Gliocladium catenulatum


bayer and icl are everywhere in the eu. If you ever cant find a product, stick the ingredient into your local google, a local company might be selling a re branded version. If that doenst work ask your local golf/sports/turf specialist stores.

mycostop is Streptomyces griseoviridis