[lazylathe]

Originally Posted by CannaBuilding

Do you remember what wattage the dial dimmer was made for? if it was 100 watts then thats the reason why, The Wand part is 120watts 120v. The dial in the above picture is a 150watt version, it works perfectly, dont even have to turn it all the way, about 2/3rd (have marked the sweet spot, can see it in the pic).

But with what you've done (looks really pro man) love it, and with the temp probe for consistant results (every medical patients dream).

Funny thing with this unit, results can change with ambient temps e.g during summer i can get the same result with lower temps on the dial as opposed to winter, hence why a probe like (lazy lathe has) or a IR temp sensor would be perfect until you get used to the unit.

peace and happy growing.

I think the one i tried was only 80 watts... Thought i read it was a 45 watt heater but that is most likely the new models as they are a different heater.

Apparently in the beginning it was thought of as dangerous to have a 120V heater close to ones face, so it was changed in later revisions.

We still have the solid SUPER heaters on our Subs!

Still figuring out what to change on the controller to get it to function 100%.
At the moment i set it at 550F and the head temp is around 470F.
I would like to try and get the numbers to match more closely but for me that is a slow process as i do not understand the controllers settings and thus do not make large changes.
E mailed company for help but no reply...
Asking around on a few forums and hoping for some help!

[OGEvilgenius]

The early generations temp box burns out. I had that happen to mine and haven't used it since. The thing is fucking dangerous yo. It does work well but I'm ok with just a torch and nail.

[CannaBuilding]

Originally Posted by lazylathe

I think the one i tried was only 80 watts... Thought i read it was a 45 watt heater but that is most likely the new models as they are a different heater.

Apparently in the beginning it was thought of as dangerous to have a 120V heater close to ones face, so it was changed in later revisions.

We still have the solid SUPER heaters on our Subs!

Still figuring out what to change on the controller to get it to function 100%.
At the moment i set it at 550F and the head temp is around 470F.
I would like to try and get the numbers to match more closely but for me that is a slow process as i do not understand the controllers settings and thus do not make large changes.
E mailed company for help but no reply...
Asking around on a few forums and hoping for some help!

I think that would be really hard to replicate due to different ambient air temp, and dont know how that temp box works as well, does the temp probe pictured above input temps data into that voltage control box in the above pic, that temp data is then used to modulate your given temps? Does that box unit work on a temp controlled solenoid system? If thats the case, adjusting those settings should either get you closer to the displayed temp or further.