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Old 07-30-2014, 06:19 AM #31
cannascholar
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I'm in week 6 flower I was wondering what I should drop from my schedule to prevent crappy taste. I stopped the micro, spectrum, and other foliars about a week ago to avoid tainting my smoke. Also the sea shield as well.

Shall I continue the micropak, photomag, seacrop, calcium, and seastim? The buds are gigantic and beautiful btw.
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:39 AM #32
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A little K, a little N and overnight that color changed. Gary R called that one spot on.
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:53 AM #33
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MJ,

Right now Im using a tsp of Albion Ca per gallon once a week..so add another 1/2g per gallon to that?

I think that is a bit more than a 1/2tsp to equal a .5g...


So in the kempf talks he speaks of a level of health that plants actually become insecticides themselves and will kill pests that try feed off of it. I dont know for sure but I have been finding dead insects on my leaves lately. Anything abnormal on the leaf surface usually grabs my attention really quickly. I noticed it about two weeks ago and thought ah its just one dead bug. More recently the numbers have increased. They look unharmed nothing about them suggests they died of anything but old age..



Here are some cross sections of petioles.. First a healthy petiole no holes and solid.



here is a hollow one



finally hollow with random holes

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Old 07-31-2014, 07:03 AM #34
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Milky,

Have you noticed a delayed response to the 12/12 photoperiod? Normally my plants respond very quickly especially since I keep my lights on 16/8 they jump off when I go 12/12. Im at 8 days and Im just now able to tell that anything has changed. They are barely even stretching...
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:23 AM #35
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some new AEA products arrived today, (well at least new to me)

Agri Gro, Initiate, PZ1000 and Hypercap any experiences or suggestions on amounts to use are most appreciated.
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Old 07-31-2014, 03:45 PM #36
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You should get growth but no extra stretch between nodes. It is a cytokinin v auxin thing that john explains in maybe that second nofa thing you posted. You will get more bud set and yield though. You also may not see any orange/red hairs. The plant will not oxidize if it remains healthy enough

Be careful adding more...too much is worse than not enough
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:08 PM #37
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Without soil tests, can you guys recommend a foliar application for my plants? I have them vegging with lights still, I got a late start and I am growing in a greenhouse. I know that is kind of vague, where can one find application rates for a gallon at a time?
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:00 PM #38
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So in the kempf talks he speaks of a level of health that plants actually become insecticides themselves and will kill pests that try feed off of it. I dont know for sure but I have been finding dead insects on my leaves lately. Anything abnormal on the leaf surface usually grabs my attention really quickly. I noticed it about two weeks ago and thought ah its just one dead bug. More recently the numbers have increased. They look unharmed nothing about them suggests they died of anything but old age.
We have 2 different outdoor gardens which experienced some thrip pressure early in the season. After 3-4 weeks of foliar on one garden they disappeared and another, with better soil to start with, saw the same results in about 2 weeks.

I dunno about the 'insecticide' thing and more when it comes to fully formed compounds their digestive systems can't handle them. From what I remember insects see via infrared and avoid plants that give off a healthy signature.

One of the first articles I read when I started to study brix many years back with the pest resistance part pretty far down in the article. Very cool story about grasshoppers though : High-Brix Crops are Pest-Resistant

A shame that Rejuvenate is still going off. Thought they had that fixed with the last batch we received.

Last edited by CaliGabe; 07-31-2014 at 06:52 PM.. Reason: D'Oh! 'insects' not 'plants'
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:06 PM #39
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Without soil tests, can you guys recommend a foliar application for my plants? I have them vegging with lights still, I got a late start and I am growing in a greenhouse. I know that is kind of vague, where can one find application rates for a gallon at a time?
The first thing I would do is keep your soil alive with the tomato formula I posted. My basic take is 90% of the results come from the soil. The foliar is just a boost and ideally would be tailored based on observation at a min and mo better on tissue or sap analysis.

Having said that photomag, kelp and micropak for sure. The rest bases on what you see.

If you have a lot of compost then for sure liave out pht k
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:41 PM #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliGabe View Post
We have 2 different outdoor gardens which experienced some thrip pressure early in the season. After 3-4 weeks of foliar on one garden they disappeared and another, with better soil to start with, saw the same results in about 2 weeks.

I dunno about the 'insecticide' thing and more when it comes to fully formed compounds their digestive systems can't handle them. From what I remember plants see via infrared and avoid plants that give off a healthy signature.

One of the first articles I read when I started to study brix many years back with the pest resistance part pretty far down in the article. Very cool story about grasshoppers though : High-Brix Crops are Pest-Resistant

A shame that Rejuvenate is still going off. Thought they had that fixed with the last batch we received.
Oh shit, you started talking about wacky concepts like "insects using infrared."

A lot of people are going to think you are crazy.

I wish more people knew about this. It is one of the most interesting things I have read about in a while.
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