Broad Mites? - Cannabis Infirmary - International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums

Grow Tech · 12-29-2011, 09:37 PM

Has anyone seen a small translucent mite that seems to feed predominantely on pitils vs leaves?

My experience with the larger red / 2-spotted mite is that they avoid higher THC areas of the plant...living mostly on the leaves.

I was wondering why the pistils on my indoor had turned brown 3 weeks into flower. I got out my 30x hand microscope and saw the developing bud sites were under attack but didnt find any on leaves I checked out.

Pyrethrum tonight!

Hammerhead · 12-29-2011, 09:41 PM

no but there is another call Hemp Russet Mites..

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.p...ght=hemp+mites

Grow Tech · 12-29-2011, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hammerhead

no but there is another call Hemp Russet Mites..

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread....ght=hemp+mites

Thanks for the input! I'm pretty sure i have something different. Mine arent visible to the naked eye. I will probably get some Azamax to use per the suggestions in the thread you supplied. I sprayed everything once with flormite before they went into the flower room but now that I'm 3 weeks in, I think I'll go the more organic route

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terpene

Hey GT - are you sure you're not seeing thrips?

Hey Terpene! I'm almost sure theyre mites. They look similar to these Broad Mites I found a picture of-

I am not seeing any leaf stippling and as i mentioned...I'm not seeing them on the leaves at all...just the new bud growth / pistils

Terpene · 12-29-2011, 11:23 PM

Crazy! Well, I've never seen anything like that but permethrin solves all of life's problems. If you want extreme organic, you might try rosemary oil in water, that seems to work well for the SNS17 crowd.

max_well · 12-30-2011, 08:41 AM

Hey bro,
I'm in SD too and recently saw these in my garden.. maybe we got them from the same clone source.. what cuts are you running?
They are Broad or Cyclamen mites, which are quite different than the 2 spotted spider. Azamax / neem based products not gonna help you much unfortunately, and I don't believe pyrethrin will give you much luck either.
They share some characteristics with hemp russet mites, which I've read of people having major problems with recently, particularly in Colorado. These are an big issue in the ornamental growing community-- I found lots of info about them in african violet growing forums..
They can be an issue in citrus trees, which might explain where they've spread from originally in Diego.
Good thread here:
https://www.t h cfarmer.com/forums/f57/broad-cyclamen-mites-43146/
also here
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread....light=cyclamen
Good luck and feel free to PM me if you need further advice on treatment..
Max

SKUNK420 · 12-30-2011, 12:28 PM

I hate those things. I've been battling them for some time now. I've gone full cycles with no treatment and no problems but now they are messing up everything. Those little pieces of crap will also get into the root zone.

I just picked up some Evergreen from the local hydro store. I've used this stuff before on root aphids with great success. There is another store also selling small dosages of Avid. You can use the Evergreen on the leaves and the root zone. Avid is only for the leaves.

max_well · 12-30-2011, 02:57 PM

Hey S420
Are you certain you see broad/cyclamen mites in the root zone? If you've had root aphids in the past maybe that's what you are seeing at the root.
I've researched these quite a bit and have not seen any mention of presence in the root zone. They do hide out down into the meristem tissue (newest growth shoots), and are very tiny, almost requiring magnification to be seen (although those in my garden could be seen with the eye, 30X was required for identification). Also, they do resemble immature root aphids in shape and coloring, but they are much smaller and do not move nearly as fast. They would be hard to detect in the soil or on roots because of their size, but I would be surprised if they actually feed on root tissue.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SKUNK420

I hate those things. I've been battling them for some time now. I've gone full cycles with no treatment and no problems but now they are messing up everything. Those little pieces of crap will also get into the root zone.

I just picked up some Evergreen from the local hydro store. I've used this stuff before on root aphids with great success. There is another store also selling small dosages of Avid. You can use the Evergreen on the leaves and the root zone. Avid is only for the leaves.

Grow Tech · 12-30-2011, 04:01 PM

Max_Well & Skunk420.....Thanks for the input!

Come to find out the Floramite I used as a pre-flower preventitive is not effective on Broad Mites or Cyclamen Mites.

I see Abamectin ( generic Avid?) and Dicofol listed as effective controls but the Dicofol is listed for ornamentals only & the Abamectin supposedly is present for 71 days ( too long at this point)

Im going to call Sierra Natural to see if SNS-217 is effective on Broad Mites.

I may go with predators though if no safe chemical solution presents itself-
Neoseiulus californicus
COMMON NAME: Californicus
FAMILY: Phytoseiidae
GENUS: Neoseiulus (formerly: Amblyseius)
SPECIES: californicus

ORIGIN: California and Florida

HOST PEST: Spider mites, Broad mite, Cyclamen mite.

HOST PLANT: Strawberries, Corn, Grapes, Roses, Vegetables, Ornamentals

LIFE STAGES: Egg, Larvae, Protonymph, Deutonymph, and Adult

SEX RATIO: Females predominant 2 to 1.

DEVELOPMENT: Completes a generation in one to two weeks depending on temperature.

ENVIRONMENT: Does best in warm humid conditions, but will also tolerate low humidity (40% - 80%rh at 50° - 105°F). Occurs naturally along coast and inland valleys of California, Florida, Chile and around the Mediterranian Sea.

AUGMENTATION: Californicus is a very versatile predator. It tolerates a wider range of temperatures and lower humidities than P. persimilis. It is being used on a wide variety of plants including; strawberries, raspberries, roses, grapes, ornamentals and vegetables. Typical release rates are 1/sq ft., 20-40,000/acre, 100,000/ha. Rates are dependent upon pest levels and desired speed of control. Recommended pest/predator ratio at time of release is 10/1. Avoid releases in temperatures below 45° F. or above 85° F and during dry windy conditions. It is preferable to release predators in the morning while humidities are high and the soil is not hot. It is extremely important to release predators as soon as pest mites appear in the crop.

PESTICIDES: Susceptible to many pesticides. Field tolerance will vary with type of spray, timing, application methods, weather and crop. Avoid spraying crop one week before or after releasing predators. Some pesticides may remain toxic to predators for up to four weeks.
STORAGE: Highly perishable, should be released immediately upon delivery. If storage is absolutely necessary, refrigerate at 55ºF. (12ºC). Not to exceed 5 days, to minimize mortality.

BIOLOGY: The following data are based on a temperature of 25ºC (77ºF).
Egg: The egg is oval and much larger than spider mite eggs. Hatch in 2 days.
Larval: Non feeding stage, 1/2 day.
Protonymph: First feeding stage, 1 1/2 days.
Deutonumph: Second feeding stage, 1 day.
Egg to adult: five days.
Preoviposition period: 1 1/2 days.
Average temperatures higher than 77ºF. will speed up reproduction. Temperatures lower than 77ºF will slow down reproduction. Reproduction stops at about 55ºF. Reproduction continues up to 95ºF and survival has been noted at 110 degrees F. At 77ºF the females consumed 5.3 spider mite eggs per day.
At 77ºF the females laid 3.1 eggs/day and laid 43 eggs during lifetime.
During the ovipositional period the females consumed 16.3 eggs per day for about 13.4 days. The intrinsic rate of increase (rm) is 0.29. This means that at this temperature the predator population can increase at the rate of 29%/day under favorable conditions. There is some evidence that californicus can survive on pollen but not reproduce.

Most of this data is from a publication by; Wei-Lan Ma and J.E. Laing, Biology -- of Amblyseius (Neoseiulus)californicus, Entomophaga, 1973, 47-60.

Storm Shadow · 12-31-2011, 08:08 AM

When I had this problem... this is what I found ...prior to this I was going crazy... I bought a nice handheld Scope from Frys and was relieved to finally see my enemy in its face...
AVID and FORBID 4F ...very important to use a wetting agent...the best is Indicate 5...
Avid and Forbid with Indicate 5.... Say goodnight.... Man I hate these things with a passion

max_well · 12-31-2011, 04:51 PM

Hey SS
thanks for your input and great photos. Did you have success in fully eradicating with Avid / Forbid? I was lucky to catch these pests when my plants were still in keg cups vegging, and alternating treatments of the above have seemed to do the trick, although I'm still watching closely as I approach flip... some research suggests liquid sulfur products are also effective-- this might be a good third attack to use as part of an IPM
https://www.saferbrand.com/store/garden-care/5456

Quote:

Originally Posted by Storm Shadow

When I had this problem... this is what I found ...prior to this I was going crazy... I bought a nice handheld Scope from Frys and was relieved to finally see my enemy in its face...
AVID and FORBID 4F ...very important to use a wetting agent...the best is Indicate 5...
Avid and Forbid with Indicate 5.... Say goodnight.... Man I hate these things with a passion

12-29-2011, 09:37 PM	#1
Grow Tech I've got a stalk of sinsemilla growing in my back yard Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: San Diego Posts: 1,772	Broad Mites? Has anyone seen a small translucent mite that seems to feed predominantely on pitils vs leaves? My experience with the larger red / 2-spotted mite is that they avoid higher THC areas of the plant...living mostly on the leaves. I was wondering why the pistils on my indoor had turned brown 3 weeks into flower. I got out my 30x hand microscope and saw the developing bud sites were under attack but didnt find any on leaves I checked out. Pyrethrum tonight! __________________ Do Good Works!
	1 members found this post helpful.

12-29-2011, 09:41 PM	#2
Hammerhead Tired Farmer Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 33,984	no but there is another call Hemp Russet Mites.. https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.p...ght=hemp+mites __________________ #hammerheadgenetics
	1 members found this post helpful.

12-29-2011, 11:23 PM	#4
Terpene I love the smell of cannabis in the morning Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: 32N Posts: 1,338	Crazy! Well, I've never seen anything like that but permethrin solves all of life's problems. If you want extreme organic, you might try rosemary oil in water, that seems to work well for the SNS17 crowd. __________________ “Make the most you can of the Indian hemp seed and sow it everywhere.” – George Washington "Some of my finest hours have been spent on my back veranda, smoking hemp and observing as far as my eye can see." - Thomas Jefferson "Two of my favorite things are sitting on my front porch smoking a pipe of sweet hemp, and playing my Hohner harmonica.” – Abraham Lincoln
	5 members found this post helpful.

12-30-2011, 08:41 AM	#5
max_well Member Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 151	Hey bro, I'm in SD too and recently saw these in my garden.. maybe we got them from the same clone source.. what cuts are you running? They are Broad or Cyclamen mites, which are quite different than the 2 spotted spider. Azamax / neem based products not gonna help you much unfortunately, and I don't believe pyrethrin will give you much luck either. They share some characteristics with hemp russet mites, which I've read of people having major problems with recently, particularly in Colorado. These are an big issue in the ornamental growing community-- I found lots of info about them in african violet growing forums.. They can be an issue in citrus trees, which might explain where they've spread from originally in Diego. Good thread here: https://www.t h cfarmer.com/forums/f57/broad-cyclamen-mites-43146/ also here https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread....light=cyclamen Good luck and feel free to PM me if you need further advice on treatment.. Max
	1 members found this post helpful.

12-30-2011, 12:28 PM	#6
SKUNK420 Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: People's Republyik of Kalyphornyia Posts: 439	I hate those things. I've been battling them for some time now. I've gone full cycles with no treatment and no problems but now they are messing up everything. Those little pieces of crap will also get into the root zone. I just picked up some Evergreen from the local hydro store. I've used this stuff before on root aphids with great success. There is another store also selling small dosages of Avid. You can use the Evergreen on the leaves and the root zone. Avid is only for the leaves. Attached Thumbnails __________________ "I'll kill a communist for fun, but for a green card..I'm gonna carve him up real nice.." -Scarface https://rebuildingfreedom.org/saul-alinsky-part-1/
	3 members found this post helpful.

12-30-2011, 04:01 PM	#8
Grow Tech I've got a stalk of sinsemilla growing in my back yard Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: San Diego Posts: 1,772	Max_Well & Skunk420.....Thanks for the input! Come to find out the Floramite I used as a pre-flower preventitive is not effective on Broad Mites or Cyclamen Mites. I see Abamectin ( generic Avid?) and Dicofol listed as effective controls but the Dicofol is listed for ornamentals only & the Abamectin supposedly is present for 71 days ( too long at this point) Im going to call Sierra Natural to see if SNS-217 is effective on Broad Mites. I may go with predators though if no safe chemical solution presents itself- Neoseiulus californicus COMMON NAME: Californicus FAMILY: Phytoseiidae GENUS: Neoseiulus (formerly: Amblyseius) SPECIES: californicus ORIGIN: California and Florida HOST PEST: Spider mites, Broad mite, Cyclamen mite. HOST PLANT: Strawberries, Corn, Grapes, Roses, Vegetables, Ornamentals LIFE STAGES: Egg, Larvae, Protonymph, Deutonymph, and Adult SEX RATIO: Females predominant 2 to 1. DEVELOPMENT: Completes a generation in one to two weeks depending on temperature. ENVIRONMENT: Does best in warm humid conditions, but will also tolerate low humidity (40% - 80%rh at 50° - 105°F). Occurs naturally along coast and inland valleys of California, Florida, Chile and around the Mediterranian Sea. AUGMENTATION: Californicus is a very versatile predator. It tolerates a wider range of temperatures and lower humidities than P. persimilis. It is being used on a wide variety of plants including; strawberries, raspberries, roses, grapes, ornamentals and vegetables. Typical release rates are 1/sq ft., 20-40,000/acre, 100,000/ha. Rates are dependent upon pest levels and desired speed of control. Recommended pest/predator ratio at time of release is 10/1. Avoid releases in temperatures below 45° F. or above 85° F and during dry windy conditions. It is preferable to release predators in the morning while humidities are high and the soil is not hot. It is extremely important to release predators as soon as pest mites appear in the crop. PESTICIDES: Susceptible to many pesticides. Field tolerance will vary with type of spray, timing, application methods, weather and crop. Avoid spraying crop one week before or after releasing predators. Some pesticides may remain toxic to predators for up to four weeks. STORAGE: Highly perishable, should be released immediately upon delivery. If storage is absolutely necessary, refrigerate at 55ºF. (12ºC). Not to exceed 5 days, to minimize mortality. BIOLOGY: The following data are based on a temperature of 25ºC (77ºF). Egg: The egg is oval and much larger than spider mite eggs. Hatch in 2 days. Larval: Non feeding stage, 1/2 day. Protonymph: First feeding stage, 1 1/2 days. Deutonumph: Second feeding stage, 1 day. Egg to adult: five days. Preoviposition period: 1 1/2 days. Average temperatures higher than 77ºF. will speed up reproduction. Temperatures lower than 77ºF will slow down reproduction. Reproduction stops at about 55ºF. Reproduction continues up to 95ºF and survival has been noted at 110 degrees F. At 77ºF the females consumed 5.3 spider mite eggs per day. At 77ºF the females laid 3.1 eggs/day and laid 43 eggs during lifetime. During the ovipositional period the females consumed 16.3 eggs per day for about 13.4 days. The intrinsic rate of increase (rm) is 0.29. This means that at this temperature the predator population can increase at the rate of 29%/day under favorable conditions. There is some evidence that californicus can survive on pollen but not reproduce. Most of this data is from a publication by; Wei-Lan Ma and J.E. Laing, Biology -- of Amblyseius (Neoseiulus)californicus, Entomophaga, 1973, 47-60. __________________ Do Good Works!
	1 members found this post helpful.

12-31-2011, 08:08 AM	#9
Storm Shadow Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 4,639	When I had this problem... this is what I found ...prior to this I was going crazy... I bought a nice handheld Scope from Frys and was relieved to finally see my enemy in its face... AVID and FORBID 4F ...very important to use a wetting agent...the best is Indicate 5... Avid and Forbid with Indicate 5.... Say goodnight.... Man I hate these things with a passion Attached Thumbnails __________________ Hall Of Fame
	4 members found this post helpful.