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Old 11-14-2008, 06:20 AM #11
pokerman2006200
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coo thread, how much do u think the diy light mover is gonna cost bro?
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Old 11-14-2008, 05:20 PM #12
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iv done something similar in an industrial electronics class i once took. using DPDT relays and limit switches on each end. using a threaded rod connected to a motor via coupler and basically a plate welded to a nut that would contact the limit switches. so the motor would run one direction until the plate came in contact then the polarity would reverse and spin the motor the opposite direction until it came into contact with the other limit switch. ill try and find the wiring diagram.
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Old 11-14-2008, 05:36 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MumBumper
iv done something similar in an industrial electronics class i once took. using DPDT relays and limit switches on each end. using a threaded rod connected to a motor via coupler and basically a plate welded to a nut that would contact the limit switches. so the motor would run one direction until the plate came in contact then the polarity would reverse and spin the motor the opposite direction until it came into contact with the other limit switch. ill try and find the wiring diagram.
To me that will create alot of friction, in turn needs a bigger motor.
Also the threaded rod will have to be very straight, which at least for me was near impossible when I tried using threaded rod in a different project I tried. You will have to use oil on the rod which could get on the plants.

Instead of using a timer circuit you could also think about using little push switches (like a computer on/off switch) to change direction on the rail.
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Old 11-14-2008, 06:40 PM #14
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The threaded rod option doesn't create all that much friction. Unless you have crappy nuts that bind and a beat up piece of rod. You'll use a geared motor anyway. The OP only wants a short light mover and getting a straight ~40" long piece of ~3/5" threaded won't be a problem.

Just look at any CNC or regular mill, lathe or whatever. Nearly all of them use threaded rods to move stuff. It works very well. It wouldn't be good for commercial light movers though since it'd be difficult to make long light rails.
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Old 11-15-2008, 01:13 AM #15
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Wow, I didn't expect this much response. Well, good news, I just got back from Home de Pot about an hour ago and I have all the supplies I need for the frame, track and roller assembly. At first, I was going to make the whole assembly from metal, but decided that's a pain in the ass, especially for the masses who will hopefully replicate this design. And, using 2x4 for the whole thing will be much stronger (originally I was going to use metal tracks from cabinets, too weak). **Side note: when I get my welder, I will redo this in metal.

Here's the lowdown:

Track: (1) piece 3/4" Aluminum box tubing (great minds think alike bud_me)

Rollers: (4) Fixed Industrial Casters - 2 1/2" x 38mm (wide)

Frame: 2x4 Wood

Main Roller: caster or rollerblade wheel

Simple simple, huh.

Cost so far:

Track: $10

Rollers: $12

Frame - 2x4 Wood: Free

Main Roller: ? (cheap)

Electronics/Motors: ? (around $20)

I'm trying to keep this as close to $50 as I can, that way people can get this for cheap, but still have a strong reliable light mover. I'm getting my camera charger tomorrow, so pics are coming.

MumBumper: I'd love to see the diagram. I'm no electronics whiz, but I can get by. Any help is appreciated in that area. Thanks everyone for stopping by.

Peace,
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Old 11-15-2008, 02:58 AM #16
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have u priced the electronics mainly the relays ? the only double pole double throws i have been able to locate that are of a good quality and reliable are @$26.72 + shipping heres a link

http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pro...SC=MGN2C-AC120

thats the main thing that turned me on to a cheapy $100 hydro farm mover that can be shortened to any leingth wanted and hung in less than 20 mins. look at the simplicity of these and u might want to re think the complicated controll sys and go with a chain driven design like this its got an arm that goes through a chain with 1 free spinning wheel at one end and a gear reduced motor on the other end if u cant figure out what the drive sys is from the link i will be happy to take some up close and personal pics of mine fer ya
http://cgi.ebay.com/Light-Track-Syst...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 11-16-2008, 06:22 PM #17
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:46 AM #18
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Well, I got good news and bad news. Good news is that I finished the frame, track and roller assembly. Bad news is that my brand new beautiful light mover will not work in my grow cab. It makes my HPS hang too low.

Regardless, I will still finish the project (the electronics portion) because I'm not one to quit, and I think this will help a lot of people. I'll be able to use this some day, just not in my current grow. Stay tuned for updates. I'll be out of town for a while, so expect to hear something in a week and a half or so.

Peace,
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Old 11-19-2008, 09:36 AM #19
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Excellent thread! I love this kind of stuff! But I have a feeling that after you're done, you'll end up with an inferior product that will have cost you more (not only $$, but time & resources) in the end.

Your rail / motor design is nearly identical to that of a Gualala Light Rail 3 / 3.5.

Do you know how they (Gualala) get the motor to turn back? Just a simple switch / actuator tied to a paddle, so that when it hits the stopper the paddle pushes in, flipping the switch.

This is my Light Rail 5, but the actuator / paddle system is identical. Can you see it on the second picture, the plastic paddle on the right side?



I think the Light Rail 3.5 is only ~$100.

Last edited by ooga booga; 11-19-2008 at 10:26 AM..
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Old 11-19-2008, 09:40 AM #20
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Actually, here's a much better picture of the paddle switch & stopper.

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