Shed force flowerer using a garage door opener?

I cut this post down because it was my idea to use the original rails and wheels of a standard garage door opener setup;

after i put up the question i thought about it, and decided that might be too noisy and also hard to fit to various sheds; so i put the posts below.

The thread's rapidly becoming a W.A.L.L. O.F. T.E.X.T. by me; so you've been warned.

I've been considering the use of a similar concept for a while now. I have 2 roller doors with rails etc. that lay in waiting for the day I stop procrastinating. Its an exciting idea for a forced flowering set-up. Would love to see how yours turns out. Thanks for jogging my memory.

I'm not going to be having a shed to grow in till next season.... i just have been thinking about how to force flower in one.

I know most of the noise from one comes from the big door panels acting like drum heads, & the rails... and thought about how to stop that; seems like the best way would be build another door: one that wouldn't make noise. Specifically, a curtain made of Panda plastic.


I priced some units on Ebay and it looks like a driver unit can be had for between 75 and 100 bucks.

In an aluminum shed, actual steel rails would make a lot of noise, so i considered just building rails out of pvc pipe, and although it's ghetto, attaching the curtain to the two pvc rails with shower curtain rod rings or some other curtain rod ring. .

If you made a curtain out of Panda, you could simply have a primary cross-bar attached to the chain or drive unit: and just push the curtain to one end: and pull the curtain back, along two pieces of pvc you ran from one end of the shed to the other: you could construct two rails, that attached only at the ends: either out of two pieces of iron pipe; or, of pvc pipe that was large enough it wouldn't sag: then simply push and pull the curtain back and forth.

I'm not sure of exactly how the panda would react: probably just accordion-fold, as it was pushed out to the end. There would be some space lost there, probably a foot lost where the panda compressed at the farthest end, but in a 10 or 12 foot shed, it seems like something that works would be better than nothing.



After looking around i found that there's also vibration through the mounts for the power head but that kits are sold that use polyurethane rubber to dampen the mounts.

If the only vibration from one came from the motor , it seems like one would be able to be hung and adapted to operate within decent acoustic limits.

Another means of getting the curtain deployed across the ceiling space of a rectangular shed would still require the use of an uninterrupted rail-set to slide the curtain along: cable.

The first thing that comes to mind, is to simply stretch cable taut in the form of two effectively, rails from one end of the shed, to the other: then, you'd be able, provided you got the cable fairly tight, to push and pull the curtain, along that cable, using rings. If you were really wanting reliability, what you could do, is use cross-bars made of pvc pipe: onto each end of which you put T fittings.

One of the T openings would obviously go onto the pipe that stretched from side-to-side: the other two holes of the T would be open: and you could thread that onto the cable. Put one on each end, and then put several of them about 3 feet apart, and you'd have a system: it would slide along the cable, as the main cross-bar got pushed and pulled by the chain, belt, whatever: and you could simply glue a Panda Plastic sheet, on top of all of them: so that the curtain didn't tend to pull down in the middle, tearing itself off. The cross bars of pvc pipe would be rigid enough that sagging wouldn't be a real big problem, because the T's you glued onto the ends, would be strung through the cable: stopping the cross bars from settling inward any more than their combined sag could pull the cable inward.

A curtain like this, could be pushed and pulled back and forth with great reliability: particularly if you actually used vinyl covered cable.

Ultimately over time of a year or two there might be a concern for the T's getting grooves worn in them by passing up and down the cable. This might require a little thought; however several methods of gluing inserts into the T's come to mind. The first one, would be simply cut short chunks of pipe, that would slip into the T's, about an inch long: split the little chunks lengthwise, and slip them over the cable: then push them up into the T's, and secure not with pvc glue, but with small screws. Each side of the T could be drilled out, just a little larger than the diameter of a small screw: the screw could then be driven through that hole, and into the little plastic ferrules you stuck in;

The T's would be hanging on the cable and get most of their wear in the top. after a few grows, the T's could be examined for wear: if the little chunks of pipe inserted into the T's were grooved badly you could back out the short screws holding them in place and with pliers, pull them out: then put new ones on.

I guess unless you're kind of a do-it-yourself'r this might not be clearly spoken; although i know it's ghetto maybe later i'll put a couple of paint schematics up sorta showing what i'm talking about.

Like i said i havent built one; i'm PLANNING one. Any good ideas welcome.


Here's a simplified drawing showing how the two cables (red) serve as runners/rails for the upper panda plastic blind, pushing when it opens, pulling when it closes; and at the same time, another curtain hung from one cable could probably be used to control a south-face as well. Garage door opener not shown, cross-ribs of 1/2in pvc to minimize sag of upper blind not shown. Left wall shown in dark gray represents north wall of building. I put it in dark gray to try to provide more visual clarity, it looks like another curtain, it's not.
In my head i visualize the north wall, both ends being opaque; and the roof, and south, sun-facing side, translucent.

These are not the same as the 'panel doors' you speak of Kingmaker but simple zinc alum corrugated iron doors (one single sheet) wound into a drum. As you can see the ends of the doors have a rubber inserted nylon rope stapled onto them called a ribbon. They are reasonably quiet but the only problem with these is the friction created. A dry lubricant applied a few times per year is suffice (Teflon, PTFE, silicon, etc.) but they will still wear out after about 10 years depending on regularity of use & maintenance. They're not expensive to replace a set of ribbons.

Larger commercial sized doors are chain driven but these glide quite freely in the tracks with minimal effort.



The door on the left has had the ribbons replaced. - (Right)You can see how it eventually frays but this particular one is a worse case scenario.
These doors can also be automated.




Thanks again -KiNgMaKeR-

Smurf, i did some checking, and it's looking like a pretty big deal to use typical doors. There's a carriage mechanism distance limitation, on a standard door installation.

You can purchase an extension unit, but it only gives a foot or two.

For a house or shed with a roof exposure more than about 8 or 9 feet, it looks like the standard door configuration goes out the window. The reasons are several: first, the carriage mechanism extensions aren't designed for more than just a foot or two; but that isn't the final limitation: there are springs on the sides of doors, which soften the fall, when the door's weight has gone vertical.

These springs, are also responsible for lifting the door during initial 'open' conditions, (what we'd be calling ''closing'' the roof). If you don't have springs lifting the door, it strips the motor and/or the drive gears.

As well, there's the problem when you use the standard doors of what to do with excess door material - unless it's the type door you have - which i assume might be rolled up [?]... For a small 6 or 7 foot shed, regular doors are ok, if your structure can stabilize and hold the weight; but more than that, problems arise on several fronts.
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When i started considering where to get a pre-built unit with motor, carriage mechanism, and built in open/close stop limiting, i didn't consider what a limitation there is on carriage mechanism travel, for a standard door opener.

I was also under the impression - maybe wrongly - that extension of that travel wouldn't be a big deal; and indeed it might not be, as long as a chain or belt drive is used; especially a chain, because a chain can obviously be lengthened to whatever length is desired, to a point.

Not knowing much about the various actuation methods used, i note here that i read on a page, about the 'stacking of the chain' in a plastic box, when the door's retracted: as if the chain isn't a continuous loop, but a single piece, that is run out, then drawn back, at least on some openers.

This type method would mean storing of excess chain if you lengthened the travel using d.i.y methods; not a big obstacle but something to be considered.

Smurf, there was definate widespread implicit assertion, that the manufactured doors, have definite travel limitations; so it might not be possible to use your doors unless the shed's length is short enough, that whatever length they're constructed will cover the lengthwise span of roof you have to close. Sorry buddy i think - i think - i don't know - the doors you have might have pretty finite limitations on the size space they can be used to cover - even if you double them by hinging the double set you own together, the problem of their weight, comes into play: as well as what to do with the excess door material when it's moved aside to open the roof.

When considering a roof area to be closed, there's also the aspect of what to do about a south, or in your case, north side, which can be used to substantially increase the sun availability in a shed. The sun-side for me, is the south side: i'm above 23.7 latitude as i presume you are, so having light come in a side, would be a big plus; i want to do that if i can.

If i used standard doors, and standard rails, in a typical setup, the L shaped travel of the doors would present a problem: how to deal with the sun-side black-out -

in fact if a side i admits light, it will be the more direct source of light to be blocked, come blackout time.

So; although i'm no expert on blackout systems, it looks like that by using a horizontal, lightweight plastic blind, several simplifications and advantages are built in:

(1) the entire load will be lighter: rails don't need be installed: vinyl covered clothesline cable becomes sufficient; demand on the motor, & gears, is much less.

(2) the acoustic signature is reduced: plastic sliding on plastic is going to be a lot quieter; plus much less weight in motion will transmit less vibration to the greenhouse frame, reducing rumble from making the shed act like a big drum.

(3) the amount of material to be bought per foot to be blacked out is reduced;

(4) the necessity of springs is eliminated. The springs require very secure mounts and tuning in a conventional door system, as well as contributing potential noise as they stretch and contract, when the door goes down, then gets lifted back up.

(5) the structure that the blackout blind can be mounted on, can be much more lightly built: instead of supporting, and stabilizing in motion, several hundred pounds, the weight is reduced to tens of pounds.

(6) the problem of what to do with excess door material is simplified: the panda plastic can be simply pushed to one end of the cables, and doesn't have to have very much space : how much is dependent of course, on how long the roof span to be blacked out is, but after just a few feet, using standard garage doors & rails becomes a problem.

(7) Sun side black-out, can be achieved with the direct push/pull method by simply hanging a side curtain on the cable which is on the side facing the sun: and without needing to deal with a complicated geometry that would come with a standard L shaped rail system typical to a normal garage door setup.

(8) Finally the simplified geometry of the flat, push-pull actuation means not managing the weight of the blind changing directions; making the mechanics much simpler and easier to set up and tune for the first-time builder of one.
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There does remain the problem of how to best extend the carriage mechanism's travel; i'm no welder or master of metal, but i assume that extension of a chain drive could be done using a piece of aluminum tube or channel that fit the shape of the standard center rail that comes with the original opener set-up.

I guess the extension of the chain could be done by motorcycle chain, i don't know about that.


Like i said i am NOT an expert in this, so if somebody knows something speak up

Smurf i apologize for dissing the roll up doors.

What happened is i did a couple-of-hour reading jag on residential doors & openers last night. By the time i got through i had typical, residential doors & openers, on my mind.

Do you have the rails for your doors or will you have to build them? Large steel or aluminum L channel...?

If you do, you'll be rolling and unrolling them horizontally, right? If you have to do that, you'll need to get some small aluminum L stock; cut it full width, from rail - to - rail, and sock it into the channels of your door material on the side opposite from the ribbon, so it doesn't sag. If the L is short enough it won't stick up over the flat part. To use L stock that small will mean using more: but the weight consideration wouldn't pose a problem. Cutting and drilling all that stock, and the doors, will take some time.

One way is using rivets; if you use small machine screws and nuts, you'll need to washer the door side, so you don't wallow the aluminum door sheet out over time. Heads of the screws on the door sheet metal side, end of the screw and nut, on the L stock side. That way you won't have to account for the nut and screw's length, cause they'll be within the height of the L.

It's stronger if you put an L on either side of an individual ridge; skip a few feet, put two more, skip a few feet;

-but it's more flexible if you simply put one, then skip a couple of feet, then one more, and so on. Flexibility in this case is the way to go; so putting one cross member, then a few feet later putting another one, etc, is likely better.

If you unroll it horizontally when you roll it back up the size of the door-roll grows: which means that as the roll-up occurs the door is gonna lift off the rails. That's not going to be a problem though, because that'll be during light period.

When you roll the door back out, if you have the roll finish up just at the level of the rails it'll be flat enough, that light leak will be no problem . It'd probably be easy, inexpensive, to use 2 inch/50mm aluminum or iron L for the rails.

You didn't say if your shed is long enough that you'll have to use both doors.

What is the reversal mechanism for that kind of door...

In the case of your type, i don't know how they're controlled.

Feel free to come in and talk about what you have in mind, i'm sure this thread'll be dead LONG before i build my shed next season.

Edit
Smurf it came to me after i posted up, that if you do have a north-side translucent wall, so you can use more sun -

and if you do run the door out horizontally on a pair of large aluminum or iron L's - you could still extend, and draw back, a hanging curtain in front of the north wall, while you extend & retract the door. If the door lays in an L, then on the inside of the L the door will be moving; but at each end, you could drill a hole in the rail : and insert eye bolts; string cable through that.

You could then just put rings/grommets into a curtain, hang it on that cable, and affix a tab to the door, that pushed, and pulled the leading edge of the curtain: out, when the door extends, and have it drag the curtain back, when the door retracts.

Just a thought.

King that is a great idea that I've already seen done.

About 10-12 years ago there was a guy in Washington state that had a huge shed and used garage door openers to pull tarps over his grow.

It can be done. Don't over think it and get discouraged it's not that hard.

What about using pipe with shower curtain rings to hold the tarp up?

You can use panda plastic it's lighter and quieter?

Sorry i didn't read the whole thread so I don't mean to cover something twice.

GCG

-KiNgMaKeR- said:

I'm not going to be having a shed to grow in till next season.... i just have been thinking about how to force flower in one.

I know most of the noise from one comes from the big door panels acting like drum heads, and thought about how to stop that; seems like the best way would be build another door: one that wouldn't make noise. Specifically, a curtain made of Panda plastic.


I priced some units on Ebay and it looks like a driver unit can be had for between 75 and 100 bucks.

In an aluminum shed, actual steel rails would make a lot of noise, so i considered just building rails out of pvc pipe, and although it's ghetto, attaching the curtain to the two pvc rails with shower curtain rod rings or some other curtain rod ring. .

If you made a curtain out of Panda, you could simply have a primary cross-bar attached to the chain or drive unit: and just push the curtain to one end: and pull the curtain back, along two pieces of pvc you ran from one end of the shed to the other: you could construct two rails, that attached only at the ends: either out of two pieces of iron pipe; or, of pvc pipe that was large enough it wouldn't sag: then simply push and pull the curtain back and forth.

I'm not sure of exactly how the panda would react: probably just accordion-fold, as it was pushed out to the end. There would be some space lost there, probably a foot lost where the panda compressed at the farthest end, but in a 10 or 12 foot shed, it seems like something that works would be better than nothing.



After looking around i found that there's also vibration through the mounts for the power head but that kits are sold that use polyurethane rubber to dampen the mounts.

If the only vibration from one came from the motor , it seems like one would be able to be hung and adapted to operate within decent acoustic limits.

Click to expand...

Sorry King just went back and read this. It will work so please post some pics when you are done?????

GCG

Thanks G. C. G. it was actually your shed thread that got me hooked on the idea of shed growing so i'm glad you stopped by.

I don't have a shed that's not full of tools right now -

but i drew a diagram of the general idea; as it's drawn, the light block curtain doesn't cover the whole shed from end to end, and there's not one shown hanging down vertically on the one clear side.

Hopefully this will give people a good idea of what i'm thinking it should lay out like, in general.


The first one doesn't have side curtain or back one to block all the light. Here's another one that's a little more complete but this still isn't really good design; just progressive drawings in case anyone cares to see

Good looking design. Just curious why you put the door on the opposite side of the garage door opener? Seems like the opener side would have room for you to enter and store random stuff.

King why can't you put the tarp on some kind of pulley system so that it will cover the whole shed?

My 2 cents
GCG

Oh yeah I saw it done in an issue of hightimes about 15 - 20 years ago.

Good luck

Celsius the reason for putting the motor in the back is because on aluminum sheds the front isn't as solid. Vibrations will be low since there'll only be the movement of the motor, chain and curtain; but a lot of people have stealth issues to address. Vibration is noise. The doors could vibrate more easily with it mounted right there over them.

In my particular case i'm looking at the option of being able to black out a small shed. Space can be an issue for people with backyard sheds that aren't too large. To offset having a fan, possible evap coolers, the door opener, and a filter, my personal slant is to bolt a cabinet to the back of the shed; if it's an aluminum one it'll deaden the shed's tendency to vibrate and ring like a bell, however little, when the fan(s) involved are running. This will also eliminate the filter, main fan, and door opener mechanism being inside.

I put a couple more of my amateur drawings up since i don't actually have a shed built to grow. They're not complete because my video card is a Radeon built for gaming and the OpenGL drivers have problems. I have a Quadro CAD vid card but it's out of the machine. The drawings of the long building look out of proportion but it's brainstorming , not a tutorial or really 'how-to.

You can see the cabinet on the back of each of these drawings. Obviously, and especially if you had a large shed, the cabinet in back isn't needed. It does however let you work on the fan, filter, and door opener without having to go inside. If the shed's overgrown i guess it would make things easier. There's the acoustic stealth aid of not having anything that runs, actually mounted to the body of an aluminum shed.

Garlic City Gro
Hey man! the reason i put it inside is for the stealth, but i think outside would work. Wind and weather could possibly be a problem for some people, for instance in winter, it could get bound with snow, or if using tarp, wet, and freeze, but i think outside would work great for a lot of people especially if they're not going to have to dodge snow.

To tell you the truth, i hadn't even considered putting one over the outside, but it would be a lot better for some people, it seems.













I guess the way of putting the carbon filter in there seems weird, i saw one from somebody's grow cab that was one plastic container inside another one and i have an ozone generator i built out of a big ol' piece of heavy duty stainless steel car grill screen and neon light transformer. I was looking for a way to deploy the ozone generator AFTER the first filtration and had some idea or other about the cabinet so that's how i got off on that big hole, and the tublike shape.

The drawings don't look like his carbon filter but like i say, my video card keeps tanking trying to do detailed OpenGL based drawings so when things start getting complex it crashes the program.

The whole idea of putting the door opener back in the cabinet is just a personal preference, an idea; i guess there's gotta be a way to cover the whole interior with the opener itself inside but as far as i can see it still means losing a couple of feet worth of interior growing space.

Since i downloaded Google Sketchup and don't game anymore i see going and digging out that Quadro vid card. The Sketchup's fun to play with when it's working but so far i've had to leave everything unfinished because the program crashes.

King I think you misunderstood what I was trying to say? What I meant was to keep the tarp inside the shed just figure out a way for it to be mounted over the opener with some sort of pulley system. I don't think putting it over the shed would be very practical?

Great ideas and discussion.
GCG

I think the cabinet on the outside is a great idea. My only concern is that someone may notice some cabinet mounted to back of the shed... and the smell issue; but thats all situational.

Ideally you would either create negative pressure inside the shed or you would have a scrubber running inside the shed 24/7.

Garlic City Gro

Yeah, lol... i completely misunderstood; but nothing lost, because that's the idea i figured on myself; to be able to work around the presence of the drive unit's body. Considering 45deg. elbows and 90deg. elbows are available it should be an easy thing to do.

What i figured would work out best, would be to put cables at the two sides, where the roof meets the shed's body; and if you have a gabled triangular roof, a single cable at the peak; to make a tent configuration. If the peak is too high for that, then having the middle cable - the one that drapes the curtain above the chain arm, a few inches above the arm would work.

For a roof shaped like yours i guess, cables at each angle where the roof sections meet would keep the curtain up, away from the plants. I don't think the cross bars would need to be all that meticulously done; the curtain would slide along pretty easily because of the even weight distribution as it draped over the cables. Just a decent load distribution cross arm system that divided simplicity and fewest pipe sections/elbows.

i could look on your thread and make drawings. I'm into practicing with the Google Sketchup.

I fixed my card's OpenGL incompatabilities, it had to do with the Anisotropic settings; it cracks up if i set it to more than 2X. There's DirectX and OpenGL, and OpenGL is used for CAD type 3D drawing, DirectX for games mostly. I tweaked settings till the Google Sketchup stopped cracking up. It's free.

When it comes to covering the LENGTH of the driver unit's body, i think if it's going to be a matter of extending the curtain back, and just losing that length when you retract it, so that panel of curtain will be there, when it's dragged back to 'CLOSED'.

Mr Celsius

It isn't clear but the Cabinet is negative pressure, scrubbed. The principle isn't used much by most growers but an excellent example of the type is shown by Red Greenery: a true duct tape engineer and d.i.y.'r here. Celsius check this link: look at the pictures on his thread here:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=508004&postcount=3

That's post 3 in the thread. Look at the pictures just below on post 4. See the blue translucent tub i tried to draw? It was meant to be a representation of this kind of filter in principle; although there's another type too, which you also don't see used very often, and which i made a drawing of and included for you to check out. If your space will provide a stable horizontal place to set them these types are d.i.y. gold; because they're so easy to build, and cheap. Most folks don't use them due to the space consideration; but in my case the Cabinet will comprise an essentially free horizontal space, concealed, in which i can put one.

The reason i'm personally oriented toward one of these, is that this type allows for a vent duct of any size; and in the desert the heat inside a shed can be massive; and in interest of stealth, (and now), concealing an opener body (at least a foot of it, maybe all of it) and transferring a lot of air thru the duct with no rushing air sound, one seems to be the way i want to go. I don't sell dope; so my shed cost is gonna come out of my pocket; laws are pretty draconian and a smaller shed is likely what i'll have to buy.

Here in the desert evap cooling is king; and i have already, two portable evap coolers. They're fitted with floats, and 1/4in. hose inputs; they can run for months on the refills without problems although as with any evap you're supposed to drain them regularly. When i deploy them into my shed, they're gonna take up some space; If i have the curtain mechanism driver, the evap cooler (s) and a fan, plus filter & associated ductwork, that's a lot of space taken up, and a lot of potential vibration to be dealt with.

Putting the filter, scrubber fan, and opener's drive unit into the cabinet, is a big gain in space, as well as reducing the potential vibration transmitted thru the shed body. The one i have currently is a typical outdoor tool cabinet someone gave me; but building a plywood one and bolting it to the back of the shed, then slapping some paint on won't be a stealth concern for me; I'm old, and know how to give people the idea '' Tools and paint are in there" and make it stay that way in their minds.


If you check out the drawing i put up, you see that the fan is gonna be set on cinder blocks that actually sit on the ground itself: i'm gonna cut the bottom of the cabinet out so i can set them there. I can't have total stealth with any object moving at the speed a fan does; but i can dampen it all kinds of ways.





The drawing of the A.C. Filter & 2X2 frame carbon scrubber shows a top a.c. filter as a cover; and the one put together is flipped upside down to show the wire. In actual practice in a shed, a top one won't be used; it serves no purpose except contain spillage if it gets knocked around.

The wire will be fence wire; it's gotta support the fiberglass filter so it doesn't sag and/or tear out; and will get wrapped around the bottom & stapled to the wood 2X2 frame. Low air resistance and good weight support to keep the charcoal from sagging.

i think in actual practice, people additionally lay them on cross braces to keep them from sagging at all.

Also the A.C. Filter & wood frame type don't need the plastic tub & all that, that Red's uses. His is a self contained unit. That's probably obvious but it might need to be noted.

Two other 'maybes' to investigate for conversion would be roller furling units used on sail boats, or thermal blanket rollers for swimming pools.

commercial garage door openers

commercial garage door openers

sit seems like individuals are only thinking of what residential systems they can use, in whatever situation or system. why not use a commercial system? everyone (stoners) wants to use what they have in their garage or a shoestring budget. this includes me by the way. But businesses and corporations and inventors and innovators (also me) do not think small. What size do you think airplane hangar doors or etc. are? first i think of the return. how much is it worth to grow 6 crops annually versus 1 or 2? exactly!!! If a business or corporation had to figure this they would say f the bs if i can triple my output. my rule of thumb, if the cost of the thing can be recouped in 7 years or less do it. if you can make 14 % a year you are making what real estate or the stock market has historically done. We are talking about tripling your investment in one year in this problem. it's a no brainer. i plan on doing this if it costs 20,000 for 6 plants. times 6 crops annually. if 2 crops pay for it plus the 2 others get, then i still have 2 extra crops the first year and 4 extra every year thereafter.
humbley,
tetrahydro

The grand idea's great, but..

The grand idea's great, but..

The original idea for this was to use a cheap, cyclical motor and transport mechanism anyone could get their hands on, without any suspicion, and alter by using a timer and relay.

Pot's highly illegal in a lot of places so commercial and giant operations aren't going to be happening, there.

Since I live in northern California now the need for the stealth's not there and this never got built. I was the person who started this post, and I was kind of rocking the Google Sketch It Up or whatever their tool is/was. It's nice, free, drawing software.

I use to have an automated dark out system.

U can get every thing from the greenhouse industry, find some company that mount and makes greenhouse ask them if they have any old motors laying around fore a dark out system.

The easy solution is to have both ends off the dark out area permantly covered 24/7 and then let the motor pull the cover back and forth over the area..

Systems that cover the ends to are more complicated and there u really need some from the greenhouse industry..

But if u build a wooden frame that can hold u strings and pull a curtain back and forth u got it going.

we use to have an ground frame to that kind off system, 20cm high with black out materiale because the fans inside the back out area made the cover dance alittel.

Its really simpel if u keep it simpel

If i was in north cali with all that sun i would go with out the greenhouse and just pull the cover over some frame and have some strings running on the inside so the dark out materiale dont hit the ganja under windy conditions

Go green