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some items to consider for the grow room

unclefishstick

Fancy Janitor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
there are many dangers both apparent and subtle in the grow room,and a few simple things to keep around to help minimize them.

1: Fire Extinguishers; an often overlooked item,not that expensive all things considered,but having one near to hand can be the difference between losing your house and explaining what was going on to the fire inspectors later on.make sure to get them rated for electrical fires,and while your picking it up,grab one for your kitchen too!!

[FONT=Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]Fire extinguishers are divided into four categories, based on different types of fires. Each fire extinguisher also has a numerical rating that serves as a guide for the amount of fire the extinguisher can handle. The higher the number, the more fire-fighting power. The following is a quick guide to help choose the right type of extinguisher. [/FONT]
extinguisher2.jpg

  • [FONT=Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]Class A extinguishers are for ordinary combustible materials such as paper, wood, cardboard, and most plastics. The numerical rating on these types of extinguishers indicates the amount of water it holds and the amount of fire it can extinguish. [/FONT]
  • [FONT=Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]Class B fires involve flammable or combustible liquids such as gasoline, kerosene, grease and oil. The numerical rating for class B extinguishers indicates the approximate number of square feet of fire it can extinguish. [/FONT]
  • [FONT=Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]Class C fires involve electrical equipment, such as appliances, wiring, circuit breakers and outlets. Never use water to extinguish class C fires - the risk of electrical shock is far too great! Class C extinguishers do not have a numerical rating. The C classification means the extinguishing agent is non-conductive.[/FONT]
  • [FONT=Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]Class D fire extinguishers are commonly found in a chemical laboratory. They are for fires that involve combustible metals, such as magnesium, titanium, potassium and sodium. These types of extinguishers also have no numerical rating, nor are they given a multi-purpose rating - they are designed for class D fires only.[/FONT]

[FONT=Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]Some fires may involve a combination of these classifications. Your fire extinguishers should have ABC ratings on them. [/FONT]
[FONT=Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]Here are the most common types of fire extinguishers:[/FONT]
sign.jpg

  • [FONT=Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]Water extinguishers or APW extinguishers (air-pressurized water) are suitable for class A fires only. Never use a water extinguisher on grease fires, electrical fires or class D fires - the flames will spread and make the fire bigger! Water extinguishers are filled with water and are typically pressurized with air. Again - water extinguishers can be very dangerous in the wrong type of situation. Only fight the fire if you're certain it contains ordinary combustible materials only.[/FONT]
  • [FONT=Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]Dry chemical extinguishers come in a variety of types and are suitable for a combination of class A, B and C fires. These are filled with foam or powder and pressurized with nitrogen. [/FONT]
    • [FONT=Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]BC - This is the regular type of dry chemical extinguisher. It is filled with sodium bicarbonate or potassium bicarbonate. The BC variety leaves a mildly corrosive residue which must be cleaned immediately to prevent any damage to materials. [/FONT]
    • [FONT=Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]ABC - This is the multipurpose dry chemical extinguisher. The ABC type is filled with monoammonium phosphate, a yellow powder that leaves a sticky residue that may be damaging to electrical appliances such as a computer[/FONT]
[FONT=Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]Dry chemical extinguishers have an advantage over CO2 extinguishers since they leave a non-flammable substance on the extinguished material, reducing the likelihood of re-ignition. [/FONT]

  • [FONT=Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]Carbon Dioxide (CO2) extinguishers are used for class B and C fires. CO2 extinguishers contain carbon dioxide, a non-flammable gas, and are highly pressurized. The pressure is so great that it is not uncommon for bits of dry ice to shoot out the nozzle. They don't work very well on class A fires because they may not be able to displace enough oxygen to put the fire out, causing it to re-ignite. [/FONT]
[FONT=Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]CO2 extinguishers have an advantage over dry chemical extinguishers since they don't leave a harmful residue - a good choice for an electrical fire on a computer or other favorite electronic device such as a stereo or TV.[/FONT]
[FONT=Georgia, Times New Roman, Times, serif]It is vital to know what type of extinguisher you are using. Using the wrong type of extinguisher for the wrong type of fire can be life-threatening.[/FONT]​


2: big ol box of baking soda; can be used to neutralize acids,can be used to put fires out in a pinch,does a good job of absorbing odor..

3: dust mask/respirator all types of medium are pretty dusty,many are fairly hazardous as well,and if you are spraying any kind of insecticides indoors you should seriously consider a respirator designed to remove fine particles and airborn mist.

4: safety glasses/sunglasses; with proper uv coatings,especially in bare bulb gardens!!

5: gloves; something like a nitrile glove should resist most chemicals found in the garden,as well as keep the funk off your hands from organics!



this is just a few very basic things to consider,feel free to add more!
 
Last edited:

el clandestino

super chato
Hey Unclefishstick. Nice thread. I recently found these online. It tends the grow area for you while your gone. I always worry that something is going to happen while I am away and cant prevent it. These units are not very expensive and for the peace of mind it will give me, I cant pass it up.

picture.php
 

unclefishstick

Fancy Janitor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
its really cheap when you consider what could happen,hopefully some electrically inclined folks will stop by with some safety tips in that realm...
 
T

Tr33

a Shop Vac is needed for those damn floods where a towel or 2 won't suffice
for cleanup.
 

brer

Member
Fire escape plan

Fire escape plan

Fire can be very frightening, but don't worry, I'm going to help you make your own
Fire Escape Plan.
If a fire starts in your home you will be scared, but try very hard to stay calm.

Having a Fire Escape Plan, so you know what to do if there is a fire,
could save your life.

Fire Plan part 1

If you are woken up by the sound of your smoke alarm or by the sound of what you think is a fire, remember:

STOP - THINK - ACT

Stay calm. Wake all the members of your family.
Make your way out together, through the nearest exit.
Do not open any doors other than the ones you need to escape through.
If a door feels hot DO NOT open it.
When everyone is safely outside call the Fire Service .
DO NOT GO BACK TO THE HOUSE for any reason until the Fire Service tell you it is safe to return.
If the fire is blocking your way or you cannot use the stairs for any reason, you must use the second part of your Fire Escape Plan.


Fire Plan part 2

In fires there is sometimes a lot of smoke. This can kill you. If you have to go through a smoke - filled hallway or room, get down on your hands and knees and crawl under it.

Get all the family into a room from where it would be safest to drop from a window, onto a flat roof or into the garden.
ALWAYS pass children down first. Never leave children until last.
Remember - never jump!
Lower yourself to arms length and then drop.
When everyone is out safely, find a telephone and dial 999.
If you are trapped by smoke and cannot escape through a window, use part three of your Fire Escape Plan.

Fire Plan part 3

If you are trapped in a room by smoke or fire, you need to try to stop smoke getting into the room.

Close the door.
Block any gaps into the room. Use towels, blankets or spare clothes.
If there is a telephone in the room dial 999.
If there is no telephone, go to the window and shout for help.
Once you know you have been heard and help is on the way, stay near to the floor by the window. Smoke and heat rise so you are safer near to the ground.
If your windows are double glazed, use a heavy object and hit the window in a bottom corner. Make any jagged edges safe with a towel or blanket.
 

brer

Member
How to Put Out an Electrical Fire

How to Put Out an Electrical Fire

How to Put Out an Electrical Fire

Many people think they are prepared for a fire, but there are different kinds of fires and not all of them can be treated the same way. Just because you have a fire extinguisher in your home, doesn't mean you can use it to combat any fire. Electrical fires are one type of fire that must be attacked in a precise way in order to put out the flames quickly and safely.
Shut off the main breakers to the house, know where your fuse box is if possible
First priority is to remove the source of the electricity or the fire will continue to form.
After disconnecting the electrical source, you can use water , that's what the fire brigade/service will use also .
If you cant disconect the electrical supply use a dry powder extinguisher CO2 extinguisher, or Sand
#1

General rule: If a fire has taken hold, (spread to other areas or structures or the smoke is at head height), all occupants of that building must be evacuated. Note to all: Do not fight a fire not worth fighting, evacuate the building, personal safety comes first.
#2

Turn off all power to the fire, usually done by turning off the main power. This step alone is usually enough to stop most fires in the initial stages.
#3

Use a safety blanket to smother the fire (Remember: If you do not turn off the power supply, electric shock is likely to occur.). Not only is this very effective in the early stages but does not damage surrounding area or objects.
#4 if you isolate/switch off the electrical supply

Use water (more than two liters at a time) to extinguish the fire, throw the water at the base or seat of the fire. This is also very effective.(Remember: If you do not turn off the main power supply, electric shock is likely to occur).
#4

The safest and the best way to extinguish a electrical fire is to use a fire extinguisher. Follow the instructions on it for more information. Note: During the initial stages of fire, once the fire is put out the surfaces that it has touched or burned are very hot and are likely to catch fire. You must have enough extinguishing material for at least 7 extinguishing attempts. E.G. 6Kg dry powder fire extinguisher. (Remember: If you do not turn of the mains power supply, electric shock is likely to occur.)
#5

General rule: Aim the extinguisher nozzle at the base or seat of a fire for most effective extinguishing of fire.



A torch beside the fuse/breaker box is a good idea .
Play safe everyone
 
Pull the pin.

Aim at the BASE of the fire

Squeeze the trigger

Sweep back & forth at the base of the fire

<-- even the baddest man in the whole damn town ain't tryin' to burn the place down!
 

angel4us

Active member
ICMag Donor
we all need to protect our eyes from them bamboo stakes!!! somebody suggested styrofoam balls in yorts recent thread on midevial eye removal techniques-oouch hope yorts doing better !
 

Kcar

There are FOUR lights!
Veteran
Hey Unclefishstick. Nice thread. I recently found these online. It tends the grow area for you while your gone. I always worry that something is going to happen while I am away and cant prevent it. These units are not very expensive and for the peace of mind it will give me, I cant pass it up.

picture.php

I second the Flame Defenders! I have two mounted above my ballasts!
 

softyellowlight

Active member
I second the Flame Defenders! I have two mounted above my ballasts!
As soon as my closet grow is done, I want to move growing to the corner of a room and have a 5'x5' footprint. Since it's the corner of the room and so the spray wouldn't be as contained do you think I should order a larger size one? I want the peace of mind of fire suppression so any more tips on effectively placing these would be useful!:wave:
 

brer

Member
Bookmarked for quick reference in case I have a fire!
Safety first and fire / Alarm + Extinguisher
RULE # 1 Get a smoke alarm , and check it regulary , change the batteries if needed . Quality brand batt's are best . Make sure it work's , check it work's .
Or use a smoke/heat detector on a circuit . This eliminates any batteries and also allows you to link all alarms in the house for quicker warning .


RULE # 2 get a powder fire extingisher , powder is safe to use on an electrical fire , they come in a range of sizes . From hendheld one litre to six litre automatic etc etc .




RULE # 3 have a plan , how will you tackle a fire in this situation ?
The grow and all you'r euipment is irrelevent over your and others safety , fire's KILL where is your nearest safe exit ...

Class C is important to us unless you can kill the electrical supply , then you can use water . C02 work's also but can reignite .

Class A extinguishers are for ordinary combustible materials such as paper, wood, cardboard, and most plastics. The numerical rating on these types of extinguishers indicates the amount of water it holds and the amount of fire it can extinguish.

Class B fires involve flammable or combustible liquids such as petrol/gasoline, kerosene, grease and oil. The numerical rating for class B extinguishers indicates the approximate number of square feet of fire it can extinguish.

Class C fires involve electrical equipment, such as appliances, wiring, circuit breakers and outlets. Never use water to extinguish class C fires - the risk of electrical shock is far too great! Class C extinguishers do not have a numerical rating. The C classification means the extinguishing agent is non-conductive.

Class D fire extinguishers are commonly found in a chemical laboratory. They are for fires that involve combustible metals, such as magnesium, titanium, potassium and sodium. These types of extinguishers also have no numerical rating, nor are they given a multi-purpose rating - they are designed for class D fires only.

Dry chemical extinguishers come in a variety of types and are suitable for a combination of class A, B and C fires. These are filled with foam or powder and pressurized with nitrogen.
BC - This is the regular type of dry chemical extinguisher. It is filled with sodium bicarbonate or potassium bicarbonate. The BC variety leaves a mildly corrosive residue which must be cleaned immediately to prevent any damage to materials.
ABC - This is the multipurpose dry chemical extinguisher. The ABC type is filled with monoammonium phosphate, a yellow powder that leaves a sticky residue that may be damaging to electrical appliances such as a computer

Dry chemical extinguishers have an advantage over CO2 extinguishers since they leave a non-flammable substance on the extinguished material, reducing the likelihood of re-ignition.

Carbon Dioxide (CO2) extinguishers are used for class B and C fires. CO2 extinguishers contain carbon dioxide, a non-flammable gas, and are highly pressurized. The pressure is so great that it is not uncommon for bits of dry ice to shoot out the nozzle. They don't work very well on class A fires because they may not be able to displace enough oxygen to put the fire out, causing it to re-ignite.
CO2 extinguishers have an advantage over dry chemical extinguishers since they don't leave a harmful residue - a good choice for an electrical fire on a computer or other favorite electronic device such as a stereo or TV .

 

compost

Member
I always keep my next 20lb CO2 tank in flowering. Just pop that and get out and cut the power. Gonna grab some of the sensor extinquishers though for when I am not home.
 

dubwise

in the thick of it
Veteran
Great Thread!
change the batteries in the smoke alarm when you change your clocks.
keep electrical cords off the ground and never under rugs!
always use proper rated circuits and wire for the proper power usage.
 
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