trap crops to lure pests for cannabis?

[Former Guest]

I was curious if anyone knows people using trap cropping to lure pests out of their gardens? there is a collective in Washington state who does it but to take the tour of his farm, is $75, and while I'd love to afford to drive there and take it, it's just not feasible at this time. Theres good info online from ag sites showing people using this technique outdoors which is also how the collective here does it (greenhouse) but does anyone do this indoors?

Essentially, he grows veggies of different kinds underneath his cannabis plants which are all planted in the ground and not containers. so one plant will have a squash and then the other will have bell peppers so each pest has it's preferred food and will go to that plant first making it easier to identify and eliminate before it damages your cannabis plants. what do ya think? I know most don't want other plants besides cannabis in their rooms but if a pest does get introduced, then I would prefer a lure plant instead of it damaging my girls.

 

[vostok]

I have heard of the odd growers attaching cans of beer to their cannabis plants in the hope of catching rippers, (an urban pest) with varying degrees of success (sarc) lololol

...even for angered cannabis growers, kidnapping is still detention without due cause, avoid at all costs, use neem oil in your watering as its systemic, or neem meal in your soils, to prevent any bugs, humans otherwise...lol

 

[stoned-trout]

maybe for deer LOL we always planted bagseed on the perimeter..lol... I would think most plants would get shaded and attract more bugs anyhow..maybe leaf lettuce ,beets and such leafy stuff the don't get too tall..better off growing onions ,garlic,herbs and such to repell insects IMHO... that I have done...

 

[Former Guest]

I really needed a good laugh beer cans to catch rippers.... love it.

i have an IPM plan almost finished filled with neem and other organic stuff. I found this concept while reading and it reminded me of the collective who does it and thought it was just rather interesting and curious if anyone else has tried it besides him. i thought it would be good to put in the bloom room where you are limited to what you can do for pest control beside some predatory mites, i thought it would be a rather safe combo. plus i could eat bell peppers

 

[Former Guest]

stoned trout, i thought of the garlic and other scent deterrants but i didn't know how that effects the taste of your buds.

Just curious as I thought it was interesting concept. I would really like to see other examples though before doing this. if the veggie is grown from seed in sterile dirt then it should stand the same chances of infection than if it was a monocrop? or does monocrop increase chances of pest like explained for outdoors? are the rules different for indoors? just curious

 

[SeedsOfFreedom]

I use this technique indoors for spider mite control. I initially used bush beans because they are recommended by others. The problem I had was, that some marijuana strains seemed more attractive to bugs than the bush beans. In the end my Friesland clone worked much better than bush beans, but the trap technique must be combined with another pest management program.

I recommend Mesoseiulus Longipes against spider mites indoors, they are efficient predators. I just let the predatory mites do their thing, then kill and remove any plants that get overrun. This technique works better for people with many plants, and multiple clones of each as backup, with many of the intended trap plants mixed in.

Much of the time now, I leave the infested trap plants with the veg garden and let them become predator breeding grounds. When using predatory mites, the infested plants quickly become predator factories if not removed like most trap plants. Overall the trap plant idea is a tool against pests, but not good enough to use without other controls.

 

[SeedsOfFreedom]

double post

 

[stoned-trout]

with herbs I found it beneficial to abuse said plants leaves and such to provide max scent oils...making sprays out of such is fine in veg ,I try and avoid spraying anything in bud..peroxide if absolutely needed...which I haven't in a long time...I really haven't had many pest issues in a long time... last serious prob was outdoors in national city.. god damn whiteflies everywhere.. water down plant runoff looked like milk...normally white flys are easy to kill off..never had the prob since outside... mites took out 1/4 of a run once too...I did go to school and take horticulture classes while doing my certs for automotive...bugs are generally easy to deal with if you pay attention ..friends used to laugh at me when I was in my garden /open greenhouses with a butter fly type net catching them white moths running round like madman...lol... I don't like caterpillars or bud worms /corn borers...add a little bt and spray....I been growing shit since I was a kid in my garden area..same bugs ,diff plant...

 

[stoned-trout]

most people prob when dealing with pests is incomplete pesticide application.. either not applying effectively or repeating the treatment on schedule with the bug targeted.... dunk small plants and a fogger for big plants is best IMHO some people even spray wrong.. I spray under leaves pointing curved sprayer towards the sky, then due to sticker the leaves will droop, then I go back and spray the topside.. I like to start at bottom and go up...foggers are best tho..no downside.. better coverage/more effiecient use of pesticide

 

[acridlab]

instead of luring them in to your area with certain plants,, i would think scaring them away would be better,,, garlic,, chives,, all types of onions,, and lots of flowers such as mums, will keep lots of stuff at bay..

 

[Former Guest]

well I tried the scaring away part by planting garlic, onions and dill underneath the windows of my room this spring and the aphids ate the dill, traveled through my window banger AC went into my grow and ate the dill plant I put in there "for good measure" but didn't touch the cannabis plants. I thought dill was a deterrent?

I am trying to implement a plan of attack in case of reinfestation. I was hoping I could put the plant in there, lure as many as I could, bag the plant and remove from grow room. then I wanted to spray with botaniguard or met52. right now my veg room that has small foot tall clones and1.5 ft tall clones has broad mites. they love bell peppers I guess and I have one that has sprung up and two inches tall I could put in there to start.

I have a veg IPM plan right now that is going to use spinosaid sprays, dr bronners sprays, and 100% neem oil sprays and drenches. I thought periodically I would add some lavender oils or rosemary oils for good measure to the spinosaid and dr bronners treatments as well. I also have silica in my soil in expanded shale and fresh aloe to help boost plant immune defenses. I am also doing a regular cleaning and sterilization. I am going to be very proactive as it is often less work than fighting these pests. I have resorted to using a chemical this time as AG sites said it was best effective over biological controls to gain a foot hold but from what I am hearing about the collective I got the cones from, they've been sprayed with forbid, floramite, and some other chemical all summer long so I am pretty sure these are super mites. this is why I am planning on such an aggressive clean up, sterilization start over plan which will start with these sprays and cleaning practices. I thought that maybe if I had an infestation again since that is likely, I could use the bell pepper plant in bloom though as a knock down treatment instead of this chem. I really don't want to bicker about the chem as I know everyone has a strong opinion but I want to clean up and implement more organic practices to learn how I can eradicate and not have to live and control the rest of my gardens life. using the sprays in veg is an easy option but I am concerned about the bloom period. how can I knock down and then control during that time with out using chems or culling? I was considering predatory mites as well as the biocontrol sprays but I am unsure as to how great these work for knockdown treatments. maybe I'm confused. help!

 

[stoned-trout]

the harshest pesticide I have had to recently was azamax and an occasional tobacco spray... I do use no pest strips on small incoming clones where they sit 2 weeks and are observed like they got ebola...but I don't do clones often...usually by the time buds are going you should of already kicked bug ass...inside is easy to control bugs if you get all fixated on it LOL .. I used to shower and change clothes when going from greenhouses/outside garden to inside...outdoors figure out why bugs are getting to your plant..other host plants close,pets ect ...those mites we all get aint there on vacation from florida...!!!!! yeehaw

 

[Former Guest]

I plan on kicking ass during veg and I don't want to send them into the bloom room until I know the BM are gone. then I was going to take clones and watch those, and then maybe after I feel like it's okay, I will put them into bloom. they were supposed to be in bloom now

I keep reading that people will get reinfestations a month or two later as they will go dormant in the soil or can be picked up on places that didn't get cleaned properly. just trying to plan ahead. I think I have settled on botaniguard or the OMRI version Mycotrol I think it's called. it's expensive for the bottle but I don't have to buy sachets or feed predators to sustain them while they have no pests to eat or regulate the humidity to higher than desirable to make them feel more "home-y".

would a weekly spray of this bee enough to control any outbreaks if that were to happen? I would like to get it ordered so I don't have to wait a week for shipping.

 

[stoned-trout]

clean up room no soil\ veg matter..mild bleach where ever possible and warm temps.i have heard high percentage peroxide mix works for some too...mites cycle is accelerated at higher temps// no food /dead..spray once with your choice of bug spray/whatever.. and go to it///.. I don't think a mite is able to go into hibernation out of choice...hey man I am out of weed time to sleep till theres a new batch here...any exposed eggs with warm temps should make the cycle roll on ... have to recheck my facts tho.. maybe exposed eggs harden and await humidity and warm temps..point is remove soil,sterilize.spray insecteside and don't bring in any more...bugs.. mites have diapause women have menopause .. I think diapause is dictated by environment..i bet if ya kept the bloom room real hot for a day or 2 you would cook any eggs left...

 

[Former Guest]

I should look more into how the hibernation works. I like the idea of creating the perfect environment but eliminating food. works the same for the predatory mites. I would do a heat treatment like a lot suggest but I've actually tried four times to get the room temps up but 105F is the top temp and I had to wait twenty mins to get it that hot burning 1400w, 1500w heater that ran constantly, and dehuey. I read that the BM and cyclamen mites like a different environment than the typical spider mites so the best breeding temps are 60-85 depending on what source you read and what type ya got and both like humidity over 55-60% so right now my temps are at 88-90F and 30% RH. the girls are still looking okay and I'm hoping that running this for over 24 hours will stress them out enough that when I hit them tomorrow with some insecticide will be more beneficial. is this stupid logic?

 

[zuni]

I was curious if anyone knows people using trap cropping to lure pests out of their gardens? there is a collective in Washington state who does it but to take the tour of his farm, is $75, and while I'd love to afford to drive there and take it, it's just not feasible at this time. Theres good info online from ag sites showing people using this technique outdoors which is also how the collective here does it (greenhouse) but does anyone do this indoors?

Essentially, he grows veggies of different kinds underneath his cannabis plants which are all planted in the ground and not containers. so one plant will have a squash and then the other will have bell peppers so each pest has it's preferred food and will go to that plant first making it easier to identify and eliminate before it damages your cannabis plants. what do ya think? I know most don't want other plants besides cannabis in their rooms but if a pest does get introduced, then I would prefer a lure plant instead of it damaging my girls.

pherramones

http://www.troybiosciences.com/technology_synergistic_1.asp

 

[acridlab]

Mums everywhere,, it defiantly helps,, and it smells like grandma's house,, mmmmm