Dud Identification Collective Knowledge.

[rasputin]

AgSil16H can be used to replace ProTekt, basically. customhydronutrients.com sells it. For similar rates to ProTekt mix 560g per gallon.

200x aloe powder can be bought @ ingredientstodiefor.com. Add 1 gram to 199 grams of water for pure aloe concentrate. Usage rates vary, some people go as high 45-50mL per gallon but I keep it at or slightly below 30mL. YMMV.

Great looking room, whatthe215!

 

[oceangrownkush]

AgSil16H can be used to replace ProTekt, basically. customhydronutrients.com sells it. For similar rates to ProTekt mix 560g per gallon.

200x aloe powder can be bought @ ingredientstodiefor.com. Add 1 gram to 199 grams of water for pure aloe concentrate. Usage rates vary, some people go as high 45-50mL per gallon but I keep it at or slightly below 30mL. YMMV.

Great looking room, whatthe215!

Righteous. I'm def gonna get some that shit is cheap.

 

[thump1]

no, i didn't even attempt to bring dudded plants back to life, i killed anything with symptoms and cut all (relatively) healthy moms down to clones. i took the kitchen sink approach and used a lot of stuff to treat all the clones. pylon, kontos, mefenoxam (for pythium and phytophthora,) and chitosan.

i did have plants that were about to be flipped, and were showing hints of nematode presence and those have been treated with just chitosan and bleach to keep everything sterile (i couldn't lose another room to rot/fungus) since my water has been HOT 78f. i just got a chiller now for RO storage.

i expected at least 30% of the flowering room to dud but the chitosan seems to have prevented it. they all look great.

there are brown patches at the base of many stems though. i'll be scoping them when i harvest in a few weeks.

how fast did they bounce back after chitosan was administered?

 

[socioecologist]

Ya'll made me lose some serious sleep in the process of reading this thread, both in the content and the length. Despite the iterant bickering, there's some really useful information here. Thanks to all that came before. If anyone has a confirmed case of Ditylenchus dipsaci, please let me know--one of my colleagues at OSU knows a bit about nematodes and is interested in sequencing the genome of a cannabis-specific specimen. A little side note and game show moment:

Question: what is one of the best disruptors of nematode life cycles?
Answer: 9-THC

A bit ironic, no? Irony aside, we'd really like to see some samples . Email: seth.crawford@oregonstate.edu

 

[whatthe215]

you da man socioecologist, thanks for finding this thread. someone get this guy a dud!

still dud free over here despite not continuing to go hard with Kontos or any other pesticides. either I eliminated them 100% or the chitosan is keeping them at bay.

 

[*Osiris*]

Wonder if this would help as a foliar...

Wonder if this would help as a foliar...

http://www.dragonflyearthmedicine.com/natural-mistik454.html


Ingredients:

20% Ascophyllum nodosum (kelp)
20% Urtica Dioica (stinging nettle)
20% Medicago Sativa (alfalfa)
5% Morinda Citrifolia (noni fruit)
5% Equisetum (horsetail)
5% Humic acid derived from lignite.
5% Evaporated Cane Juice (sugar)
5% Lavandula Lamiaceae (lavender flower)
5% Calendula Officinalis (calendula flowers)
5% Rosmarinus Officinalis (rosemary)
Bacillus pumilus ~ 7,930,000 CFUs per gram
Bacillus megaterium ~ 7,930,000 CFUs per gram
Bacillus licheniformis ~ 7,930,000 CFUs per gram
Bacillus subtilis ~ 7,930,000 CFUs per gram
Bacillus amyloliquefaciens ~ 7,930,000 CFUs per gram
Bacillus thuringiensis ~ 7,930,000 CFU's per gram
Trichoderma konigii ~ 495,594 cfu/gm
Trichoderma harzianum ~ 495,594 cfu/gm
4.9% Inert Ingredients

 

[*Osiris*]

Crab shells are also a source of Chitin, Chitosan, and Calcium

 

[Storm Shadow]

http://www.hortibiz.com/nc/hortibiz/volgende/2/nieuws/new-nematicide-for-us-vegetable-growers/

New nematicide for US vegetable growers


fluensulfone





Adama announced that its product, Nimitz nematicide, has received state registration in Florida for use on tomatoes, peppers, okra, eggplant, cucumbers, watermelons, cantaloupe, and squash.
As a non-gas formulation, the active ingredient in Nimitz (fluensulfone) is distributed through the soil and into contact with nematodes through irrigation or rainfall. “Unlike older chemistries, with Nimitz there is no gas, mandatory tarping or specialized machinery requirement. Applications can be drip-injection, and broadcast or banding with mechanical incorporation,” says Pablo A. Navia, Adama innovation technical leader.

Nimitz features the least restrictive signal word of “Caution” on its label, no re-entry interval (REI) and does not require certified applicator training. Additionally, personal protective equipment (PPE) is minimal.

State registrations for Nimitz are approved in Alabama, Colorado, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Indiana, Maryland, Michigan, Ohio, Oklahoma, South Carolina, Tennessee, and Virginia.

State registrations are expected for California, Arizona and other vegetable producing states before the end of 2014. A secondary crop tier will be submitted for EPA approval for use on potatoes, strawberries, carrots, tobacco, and turf in the near future.

18:56 - Tue 25/11/2014
Bron: Growing Produce

 

[Storm Shadow]

http://ir4.rutgers.edu/Ornamental/OrnamentalWorkshop/workshoppresentations/Path_MANA.pdf

​

　
(Fluensulfone)
MCW-2 480 EC starts working on contact [FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][/FONT][/FONT]Reduced locomotion/ Paralysis
[FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][/FONT][/FONT]Cessation of feeding 1-hour after exposure
[FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][/FONT][/FONT]Reduction in ability to infest
[FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][/FONT][/FONT]Developmental effects on eggs: [FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][/FONT][/FONT]Eggs do not develop
[FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][/FONT][/FONT]Reduced egg laying, (Eggs are retained in nematodes)
[FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][/FONT][/FONT]Reduced hatching
[FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][/FONT][/FONT]Juveniles that hatch don’t survive
[FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][/FONT][/FONT]Treated nematodes lay non-viable eggs
　
　

 

[whatthe215]

Wonderful, thanks for keeping an eye on Nimitz developments SS. I'm glad it's relatively harmless, it does sound like a great product.

I hope it's able to completely eradicate them from a plant... not just a very effective control.

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

D. dipsaci were tolerant to fluensulfone and fenamiphos.

http://www.pubfacts.com/detail/2445...gratory-nematodes-under-laboratory-conditions.


D. dipsaci were not immobilised by 48 h in vitro exposure to up to 16 mg L(-1) of fluensulfone. A. besseyi and A. fragariae were affected by 8 mg L(-1) , the highest concentration used for these nematodes.

 

[Elmer Bud]

http://ir4.rutgers.edu/Ornamental/OrnamentalWorkshop/workshoppresentations/Path_MANA.pdf

​

　
(Fluensulfone)
MCW-2 480 EC starts working on contact [FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][/FONT][/FONT]Reduced locomotion/ Paralysis
[FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][/FONT][/FONT]Cessation of feeding 1-hour after exposure
[FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][/FONT][/FONT]Reduction in ability to infest
[FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][/FONT][/FONT]Developmental effects on eggs: [FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][/FONT][/FONT]Eggs do not develop
[FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][/FONT][/FONT]Reduced egg laying, (Eggs are retained in nematodes)
[FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][/FONT][/FONT]Reduced hatching
[FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][/FONT][/FONT]Juveniles that hatch don’t survive
[FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][FONT=Wingdings,Wingdings][/FONT][/FONT]Treated nematodes lay non-viable eggs
　
　

G`day Stormie

Better check what happens when you combust the residues before you incorporate .

Tomatoes and vegetables don`t get smoked ...

Thanks for sharin

EB .

 

[whatthe215]

damnit. at least it's effective against root knot todes (and other parasitic todes,) god forbid they get passed around in the community.

 

[iTarzan]

This thread took a bit to read and nobody mentioned the most organic option there is. Marigolds. Google nematodes and marigolds.

There are many nematocidal marigolds. One called Muster John Henry is also known as the "nematocidal marigold"

 

[Mikenite69]

What is a Nematode?
Nematodes are microscopic worms that live in the soil. All soil has them in varying amounts, and there are many different types. Unless you take a soil sample to a lab you will not know which type you have or how many you have. Some nematodes cause problems in the garden, but many are beneficial. For example, nematodes are used to kill June bugs in lawns.

The nematodes being discussed here invade plant roots and cause various deformities in the roots. That can be a real problem in root crops like beets and carrots since they affect the part of the plant we want to eat. But nematodes also affect other plants like tomatoes. When tomatoes are infected, the nematodes make the plant weaker resulting in a poor crop.

Some damage is always present, but in most cases it is so minor that we don’t even see it. In severe cases you simply can’t grow certain crops.

Marigolds and Nematodes
Many web sites and gardening books promote the idea that marigolds will reduce or eliminate the amount of nematodes in the soil. If this happens, then you no longer have a nematode problem. Seems simple enough. Plant some marigolds in your vegetable garden and you eliminate nematodes.

There is some validity to this idea so it is not a complete myth. The problem is that the real truth of the mater has been vastly exaggerated and over simplified.

How do Marigolds Control Nematodes?
Based on my research, scientists are not really sure. Marigolds do produce compounds that are nematicides, a compound that kills nematodes. It is possible that these are released into the soil and that the nematodes in the vicinity of the roots are killed. Field testing does not support this hypothesis.

A more plausible explanation is that marigolds act as a host for the nematodes. The nematodes actually invade the marigold roots in the same way they might invade a tomato root. The difference is that once the nematode is inside the marigold root, the natural nematicides of the plant kills the nematode and prevent it from breeding. Over time the population of nematodes decreases.

None of this has anything to do with the marigold fragrance which does not attract nematodes, nor does it repel them–that is a myth.

Does Companion Planting Work?
Stated another way, will marigolds, planted along side of other vegetables, control nematodes? The answer is NO. This has been tested scientifically many times and it just does not work. Your garden may look pretty, it may smell nice, but this practice does not prevent nematodes from invading your crops.

Which Marigold Works Best?
You might know that there are a number of different types of marigolds, both species and cultivars. It turns out that each type has a different effect on nematodes and the effect depends very much on the type of nematode. That is right, to have any effect you need to match the right type of marigold to the nematode growing in your soil. How do you figure that out? You need to have your soil analyzed at a lab. Unless you are prepared to do this, you have no idea which marigold to plant.

If you are not prepared to have your soil tested, don’t bother trying to use marigolds to control the nematodes. It’s probably not going to work.

Best Cultural Practice
If you decide to use marigolds to control nematodes you should follow these steps. Plant the marigolds in the exact spot where you will be growing the vegetable. Grow them there for at least 2 months and some references suggest 4 months. After 2 months, you can remove them, or dig them into the soil and then plant you vegetable crop. This will control the nematode problem, provided you are planting the right kind of marigold.

The marigolds attract nematodes in the future spot of the vegetable, and as they invade the marigold root, the number of nematodes is reduced. When the vegetable is planted right after the marigold, it grows in an area that does not have many nematodes and therefore you see less damage to the vegetable crop. To make this work the marigold needs to be in the “same” spot as the vegetable. A foot one way or the other makes a big difference and that is why growing the two plants side by side does not work.

If you are located in climates with shorter growing seasons, for example much of the northern hemisphere, you don’t have a long enough growing season to dedicate 2 months to marigolds. You are out of luck.

Marigold Facts
The following are some facts related to the use of marigolds in fighting nematodes.

Most modern day tomatoes have been breed to be nematode resistant–one reason for not using heirlooms.
Protection lasts one season or for one crop. Nematodes multiply quickly and will return.
Marigolds do not draw nematodes away from crop plants. They are simply one of the possible hosts.
Digging the marigolds in is good for the soil, but it does little to help the nematode problem. The natural nematicides are only found in living plant tissue. However, the extra organic matter might encourage natural nematode predators to prosper.
The effectiveness of marigolds is temperature dependent. Some marigold types work better at higher temperatures, and some work better at lower ones.
Marigolds are a magnet for thrips and spider mites which could be as big a problem on vegetables as the nematodes.

 

[iTarzan]

forget it

 

[RetroGrow]

The nematodes being discussed here invade plant roots and cause various deformities in the roots.

Actually, that's not the case. The nematodes being discussed here are stem nematodes, or Ditylenchus dipsaci. They enter plants through the stomata, NOT the roots. It is a unique type of nematodes. The other 5 classes of nematodes enter/effect the roots, and the products named above are for the control of them, not Ditylenchus dipsaci.

 

[iTarzan]

Actually, that's not the case. The nematodes being discussed here are stem nematodes, or Ditylenchus dipsaci. They enter plants through the stomata, NOT the roots. It is a unique type of nematodes. The other 5 classes of nematodes enter/effect the roots, and the products named above are for the control of them, not Ditylenchus dipsaci.

This thread is discussing Duds. They can be caused by root nematodes, stem nematodes, fusarium and verticillium. You should do treatments for all of these to be protected.

I was reading stem nematodes can withstand heat up to 140 degrees. They can survive in complete dryness for years.

They have one big chink in their armor though and can easily be defeated. Well not if you have a huge field of alfalfa or barley. Then you are screwed. The only nematocide that worked on stem nematodes was nemacur and it was banned because it actually is very toxic to humans. Not we think it could be toxic. It is oh those people got sick and some died toxic. So there is nothing you can spray or drench to kill a stem nematode.

They have a couple new ones but they are super toxic too and not used in this country.

 

[redlaser]

Stem and bulb nematodes ,or Ditlenchus dipsaci can be killed by soil solarization. Cuttings dipped in 111 degree water for 30 minutes is listed as effective in killing nematodes. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r280200111.html Cannabis is fairly sensitive to 111 degree water but at least some strains will tolerate it. Maintaining the temp is key. Fifteen different cannabis strains have tolerated it for me. I'm doing it because it's a simple non toxic treatment.

 

[Mikenite69]

Ya well if you took that from my post it was a article discussing most of the myths about marigolds that has been sprewed over the internet. It was a article that I posted up about the whole marigolds to kill nematodes and how it really is ineffective. I have been known that this was about dirtylenchus dispaci I been following for a while.

While it's all good and you all think you know it's dirtylenchus where are these lab confirmed reports proving that intact that they are dirtylenchus dispaci? Not one sample or prove by anyone has been submitted to a actual lab that said yes it's this nematode. Or unless I missed it. So until I see a proven report by a lab certified with dealing with nematodes I don't care what anyone claims they know what nematode speicies it really is until I see it confirmed by a lab.

Haven't saw one picture of where these things supposedly enter or anything else. With so many of the supposedly dirtylenchus cuts that were passed around where are lab reports to back up these dirtylenchus theory's?