(New Member) - Vacuum Chamber Lid

[JETS710]

Whats up yall,
So Ive been doin lots of reading and research around here for the past 2-3 weeks and I bought my first simple, personal set up. Just a simple Robinair 3CFM 2 Stage, but I had a question about the chamber I decided to pick up. I picked up a Pro Vac 3 Gallon Chamber from Amazon, and I read a few things about it AFTER i bought it .

Anyways, I read that the lids were poorly designed and it leaks material into the oil after heavy use. Is that true? And if it is, how much would another lid cost with a gauge? I've found a few around $100... But if that's the case, I might as well return my chamber and get another with a better lid. Please let me know as I want to make sure I have durable enough equipment before I do my runs.

Thanks for the help.

 

[HighStateToke]

Welcome to ICMAG!

I wouldn't worry about the lid leeching into your oil since they won't be in contact with each other. Just watch out for stress cracks! How thick is the lid?

 

[JointOperation]

ya we went with a best value vac.. instead.. because the lids don't need to be perfectly on.. to get a full vacuum. and the gasket is reversible so if one side rips or something.. it happens. but ya I still have a pro vac . I don't use cause the lid cracked after 4 uses.

 

[JETS710]

Thanks for the welcoming!

For the thickness of the pro vac, doesn't say. Just states it's a thick lid. Here's the amazon link
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E0...iption_secondary_view_pageState_1413386216884

I'm probably going to return this and get a SS 1.5 Gallon from Glass Vac (brand from best value?) which is 302 SS with tempered Pyrex glass instead of Heavy aluminum with acrylic or poly. Would that be a better choice ?

Link is here
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NP3NS08?pc_redir=1411455849&robot_redir=1

They both cost the same except the SS is less shipping �� but let me know guys. Thanks !

 

[JETS710]

ya we went with a best value vac.. instead.. because the lids don't need to be perfectly on.. to get a full vacuum. and the gasket is reversible so if one side rips or something.. it happens. but ya I still have a pro vac . I don't use cause the lid cracked after 4 uses.

Do you mean the BVV lid cracked after 4 uses ? Or the Pv. That's why I'm scared. I heard the PV lid is poorly designed and shit for American made?

 

[JointOperation]

i got the stupid pro vac bs.. the lid never fits properly. and then it cracked. so i said fuck it.. bought a best value vac. the orange one.. at the time.. thats all they sold..

now they got the shatter vac.. and the glass vac.... the real difference being.. bragging rights lol.. if you purge most of your butane out in the hot water bath.. there shouldnt be enough butane to really destroy the lids..

just do your research.. if your serious.. but i figured.. im buying a 3gallon chamber.. soon.. and very soon.. this is going to be way to small for what i wana do . so i basically am using this chamber.. to afford buying a vac oven.. and a closed loop system.. all my oil money is going to a safer more efficient system..

if your serious about making oil. and wana make a 1 time buy.. buy a closed loop or build one.. and then buy a vac oven. you wont regret it.. ive been going to my friends to purge my stuff in his vac oven here and there.. its just so much more stable.

 

[JointOperation]

also. im using the orange. acrylic lid one.. and ive used it for over 20 batches or more already.. and not a single issue. no cracking no nothing..

i had the pro vac.. iuno what happened but that thing cracked so fast i was shocked.. i thought maybe a manufacturer error.. but the dude basically told me to fuck myself so i moved on.

 

[Gray Wolf]

Polycarbonate or Acrylic lids don't leach into the product, but they do they fail from high cyclic fatigue, induced by repeatedly flexing them.

A same size, but thicker lid flexes less under the same pressure and last longer. You should start to see stress cracks before the lid is in danger of imploding, but when it does implode, it makes a mess of an extraction.

 

[JointOperation]

i inspect after each run.. im hoping it will last until i can pay for the vac oven..

 

[JETS710]

So I ended up getting a Glass Vac 1.5 Gallon 304 SS Chamber. It can get to full vac in about a minute and a half with a 3 CFM 2 Stage Pump (I have a robinair) as it is listed on their website but who knows if it is accurate. It is tempered pyrex glass, so I'm guessing that is on the good side from what people have told me. The only downside is that it is 7" diameter . Wish it was at least 8-10" but oh well. Smaller runs it is. And I would buy a CLS but I don't have the time nor funds to do that -_-

But I'm about to do a first run soon. I'll let yall know how it turns out. Aiming for around 98 degrees for hot water bath for initial liquid purge, than around 100-105 for chamber. Planning to let sit for an hour or so, pull first vac and watch muffin. At that point, depending on how muffin reacts, lower or add heat (I heard if the muffin doesn't fall within an hour, you are running heat to low? And if it falls before it reaches full vac, it is too high? Any input on this). Than im going to close line in and turn off pump along with unplugging hose. Let sit for few hours until I notice pressure going, and plug back in, etc. Plan to purge for 20+ hours, or is that over doing it.

My goal is to preserve as MUCH terps and smell as possible, low temp to make shatter. I heard sap you need to go a little higher tho. Wouldn't mind sap either.

 

[JETS710]

I also read here that disturbing or constantly "playing" / "touching" the oil before its vac purge stage is bad. If that is the case, would it be bad to still scrap from pyrex instead of spraying onto one of those oil slick parchment or pads? I was going to spray straight into pyrex, and after liquid purge is done, scrap onto non-stick parchment paper (heard wax paper is a no go) to credit-card thin layers to get the best purge.

 

[JETS710]

i got the stupid pro vac bs.. the lid never fits properly. and then it cracked. so i said fuck it.. bought a best value vac. the orange one.. at the time.. thats all they sold..

now they got the shatter vac.. and the glass vac.... the real difference being.. bragging rights lol.. if you purge most of your butane out in the hot water bath.. there shouldnt be enough butane to really destroy the lids..

just do your research.. if your serious.. but i figured.. im buying a 3gallon chamber.. soon.. and very soon.. this is going to be way to small for what i wana do . so i basically am using this chamber.. to afford buying a vac oven.. and a closed loop system.. all my oil money is going to a safer more efficient system..

if your serious about making oil. and wana make a 1 time buy.. buy a closed loop or build one.. and then buy a vac oven. you wont regret it.. ive been going to my friends to purge my stuff in his vac oven here and there.. its just so much more stable.

The POS is still being shipped to my house. I don't know where the warehouse is but it was expected shipping 5 days and its been longer than a week... And it still isn't going to be here till the 21st . And thats from what I read that it cracks. And it was poorly designed because instead of centering the valve housing in the center of the lid, they did it closer to one side. I don't know. The SS was cheaper I just bought and BVV customer service was crazy good. For the 1.5 Gal SS Tempered Pyrex Glass lid was $140 + $9.14 express shipping (1-2 days arrival). I thought that shit was a steal. The provac was fucking $140 + $21.** shipping and its been long as fuck. Glad the BVV is doing well for you. Im looking forward to work with mine.

 

[JETS710]

Polycarbonate or Acrylic lids don't leach into the product, but they do they fail from high cyclic fatigue, induced by repeatedly flexing them.

A same size, but thicker lid flexes less under the same pressure and last longer. You should start to see stress cracks before the lid is in danger of imploding, but when it does implode, it makes a mess of an extraction.

When you say "A same Size, but thicker lid", are you implying that towards the Polycarbonate and Acrylic lids are is that for the Tempered Pyrex Glass. As the tempered Pyrex Glass is 1/2". If you are talking about the glass, I will make sure not to run it once I see the stress cracks appear.

 

[Gray Wolf]

When you say "A same Size, but thicker lid", are you implying that towards the Polycarbonate and Acrylic lids are is that for the Tempered Pyrex Glass. As the tempered Pyrex Glass is 1/2". If you are talking about the glass, I will make sure not to run it once I see the stress cracks appear.

I'm saying that 1" thick 12" diameter lid, will deflect more under the same pressure than a 10" lid.

If both lids are the same size, the thicker one will deflect less.

Tempered glass is more tolerant to ongoing flexing than Polycarbonate or Acrylic, and has a higher modulus of elasticity at 10,000,000 psi vis a vis 375,000 psi, so it doesn't deflect as far under the same load.