The mt69

[Lono]

I just did a quick search and found this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0SNJ25M4RB26RT0X7WHJ

Good find bro!

Are wort chillers and jockey boxes the same thing?
Is 50' too much, or more the merrier?

Really excited to build this . Was dreading bending the tube so thank god for brewery hardware/supplies!

 

[flatslabs]

Are wort chillers and jockey boxes the same thing?

As a brewer:

Wort Chillers (Immersion Chillers) are usually big copper coils that you pump cold water through and submerge in your hot wort to bring down to temperatures cold enough to pitch yeast.

Jockey boxes are coils inside of coolers that are filled with ice water and ready to go beer is pushed from warm kegs through the coils to serving temperatures.

HERMS coils are used in the brewing process as a heat exchanger to maintain temperatures of the mash.


For our purposes, they are probably all the same, but wort chillers are usually made from copper whereas the other two are typically made from stainless.

 

[Lono]

As a brewer:

Wort Chillers (Immersion Chillers) are usually big copper coils that you pump cold water through and submerge in your hot wort to bring down to temperatures cold enough to pitch yeast.

Jockey boxes are coils inside of coolers that are filled with ice water and ready to go beer is pushed from warm kegs through the coils to serving temperatures.

HERMS coils are used in the brewing process as a heat exchanger to maintain temperatures of the mash.


For our purposes, they are probably all the same, but wort chillers are usually made from copper whereas the other two are typically made from stainless.

Sweet! Thanks for the info

The reason I ask is because I found this SS wort chiller that was only 25', closed to GW's dimensions. Wasn't sure if the shorter length would be more ideal or not.

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Efficie..._sim_k_10?ie=UTF8&refRID=1JSQCTHG3RNBT2YRBJ00

Would obviously have to swap the fittings out, but shouldn't be an issue. Only 47.99

 

[krunchbubble]

Sweet! Thanks for the info

The reason I ask is because I found this SS wort chiller that was only 25', closed to GW's dimensions. Wasn't sure if the shorter length would be more ideal or not.

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Efficie..._sim_k_10?ie=UTF8&refRID=1JSQCTHG3RNBT2YRBJ00

Would obviously have to swap the fittings out, but shouldn't be an issue. Only 47.99

That looks like the business right there!

 

[Gray Wolf]

Sweet! Thanks for the info

The reason I ask is because I found this SS wort chiller that was only 25', closed to GW's dimensions. Wasn't sure if the shorter length would be more ideal or not.

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Efficie..._sim_k_10?ie=UTF8&refRID=1JSQCTHG3RNBT2YRBJ00

Would obviously have to swap the fittings out, but shouldn't be an issue. Only 47.99

That would work, but I recommend running the last coil out the bottom of the heat exchanger tank, so that it is self draining. That will make recovery during teardown easier and limit the amount of butane in the system other than the tank.

I welded a 1/2" coupling in the bottom of the tank and plumbed into it inside the tank, using a Hoke compression elbow.

I also ran the top coil out the side of the tank, to as to be able to use a solid lid.

 

[HighStateToke]

That would work, but I recommend running the last coil out the bottom of the heat exchanger tank, so that it is self draining. That will make recovery during teardown easier and limit the amount of butane in the system other than the tank.

I welded a 1/2" coupling in the bottom of the tank and plumbed into it inside the tank, using a Hoke compression elbow.

I also ran the top coil out the side of the tank, to as to be able to use a solid lid.

GW, any chance you can post a picture of that for us visual folk?

 

[CaliGabe]

Sweet! Thanks for the info

The reason I ask is because I found this SS wort chiller that was only 25', closed to GW's dimensions. Wasn't sure if the shorter length would be more ideal or not.

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Efficie..._sim_k_10?ie=UTF8&refRID=1JSQCTHG3RNBT2YRBJ00

Would obviously have to swap the fittings out, but shouldn't be an issue. Only 47.99

Brewed beer in the early 90's so waaaay out of touch. Something from Duda Diesel might be more efficient? Very different design though.

http://www.dudadiesel dot com/search.php?query=%2Bbeer+%2Bwort+%2Bchiller&i=beerchillers

 

[Chonkski]

GW, any chance you can post a picture of that for us visual folk?

Getting really exited over here.

for paramount to ship a 20' section is 200$ so I can't thank you guys enough for the links! don't know why I haven't checked amazon to begin with.

Here's a couple pictures GW posted in another thread HighState

 

[Gray Wolf]

Getting really exited over here.

for paramount to ship a 20' section is 200$ so I can't thank you guys enough for the links! don't know why I haven't checked amazon to begin with.

Here's a couple pictures GW posted in another thread HighState

Thanks CK! Thats the one.

I'll take an inside shot on the next build, which will have two coils. One after the Gast and one just before the storage tank.

 

[icdog]

For anyone using the mt69, not a stainless coil, can you vac it before a run?

 

[IlDeuceIV]

For anyone using the mt69, not a stainless coil, can you vac it before a run?

You can, but you would want to put some ball valves on both the input and output, so you can pull out down, then isolate/hold the vacuum by closing the valves. I have a set of the yellow jacket compact ball valve that do the trick, it's especially helpful when breaking down and dropping the mt69 in hot water to send the leftover liquid over to the chilled storage tank as a vapor.

 

[icdog]

Great thanks

 

[Gray Wolf]

For anyone using the mt69, not a stainless coil, can you vac it before a run?

We always do.

 

[cyphaman]

recently someone was saying that the copper coils while being exposed to butane start to corrode and that this could be a bad thing and /or reason not to use. I only ask because I was thinking of getting one, and didn't know until now that you could get a SS coil!

Cheers

 

[pnw bb]

Hey guys my 3/8'' coil just arrived and im having a hard time figuring out what types of connections to put where. I figure having a ball valve on each end is a good place to start but how do I attach the ball valve and what kind of fitting should the ball valve have exposed? as in the vapor leaves my recovery pump via a 1/4" sae male nub. should I throw a 3/8 adapter on that and a length of ss braided 3/8 from my recovery pump port to the ball valve on the coil or just go 1/4" to the ball valve on the coil. and on the end exiting my box how do I connect that to the ball valve and what hose should I use here seeing that my recovery tank has a 1/4' sae port as well.thanks a lot guys im sure there is a simple answer for this I just cant get my brain working this Monday!

 

[Chonkski]

Hey guys my 3/8'' coil just arrived and im having a hard time figuring out what types of connections to put where. I figure having a ball valve on each end is a good place to start but how do I attach the ball valve and what kind of fitting should the ball valve have exposed? as in the vapor leaves my recovery pump via a 1/4" sae male nub. should I throw a 3/8 adapter on that and a length of ss braided 3/8 from my recovery pump port to the ball valve on the coil or just go 1/4" to the ball valve on the coil. and on the end exiting my box how do I connect that to the ball valve and what hose should I use here seeing that my recovery tank has a 1/4' sae port as well.thanks a lot guys im sure there is a simple answer for this I just cant get my brain working this Monday!

You got it right the first time. Use 3/8" hoses and adapt down where it is needed. I use yellow jacket redundancy valves on the hoses.

As far as the compression fittings go, I use the Gyrolock ones that were once suggested for the mkIII. But I believe GW would suggest swagelok compression fittings these days. Either will do just fine

 

[Gray Wolf]

recently someone was saying that the copper coils while being exposed to butane start to corrode and that this could be a bad thing and /or reason not to use. I only ask because I was thinking of getting one, and didn't know until now that you could get a SS coil!

Cheers

Yeah, they have quite the campaign going, don't they?

Butane is not corrosive, so unless it has something corrosive in it, it isn't an issue.

Butane is a fully saturated simple Alkane, seeking nothing in the way of ions. Neither copper oxide or copper sulfate are butane soluble for transport.

 

[transplanted]

Well, I really need to start checking the boards before I drop money on things, lol. Just ordered the MT69 and now wishing I would have read this first and just used the 3/8 x 50' coil ICDog found. ah well...

 

[JointOperation]

grey wolf should be the dude who goes around an inspects these systems .. would be a cool job i think atleast.. to see how everyone is using your designs in some way or another loll.

 

[Gray Wolf]

grey wolf should be the dude who goes around an inspects these systems .. would be a cool job i think atleast.. to see how everyone is using your designs in some way or another loll.

Hee, hee, hee, and get a peek at those folk's brain farts that have pushed the design along another notch! Isn't synergy great?

Alas my energy and time diminish, so a better job for a sorcerer's apprentice, with boundless energy and greater social charm.

Any gaugus, bright, scientifically minded sister women of pulchritude and chaawm out there, who can turn a wrench and are willing to learn by building systems quid pro quo for training to do a cool job inspecting, no favors required?

In mah dotage, ah'm thinking that just watching a gaugus bright young sister do a good job inspecting and charming the public, would be a far cooler job and more uplifting to mah aging spirits.