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Gorilla Glue #4
- Thread starter RB26
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you flush three weeks with plain water in coco or soil?
I think PH test grow looks better ....
Keep in mind we /I don't have the luxury of waiting for the plants to finish on there own. I need to give them a little push at the end so I can put more in. if I was growing OD and had land to grow a nice patch. I would try some thinks //
Keep in mind we /I don't have the luxury of waiting for the plants to finish on there own. I need to give them a little push at the end so I can put more in. if I was growing OD and had land to grow a nice patch. I would try some thinks //
No problem you can think that, but why didn't I start getting PM until after the introduction of WLD, Indica's? I did not see it until then. I do think good plant health can help, as well as environmental controls in a greenhouse or indoors.
-SamS
The cold is locking up nutrients, indoors, or in a green house where they don't get cold you will not see as many colors but you still want the plant to run out of N just before the very end of flowering, for better tasting and smoking herb.
-SamS
btw all that pm yo see on the plants around your garden that you are amazed isnt on your cannabis. its highly likely it cant be. there are other powdery white mildews all around and they can be species specific. for instance your cantaloupes covered in pm are probably infested with another species altogether and whe yours breaks out youll assume it spread. yet it didnt. happened to be favorable conditions around the same time as the powdery on you cannabis. its everywhere.
There are several species, that effect different plants!!! I would think it is variety that effects tomato.
With just a little bit of effort you could find out that three types of powdery mildew fungus plague tomatoes: Oidium neolycopersici, Erysiphe orontii, and the last, "Leveillula taurica" which also does infect Cannabis. Fungi are spread by airborne spores. Not that I expect you do any research before posting, your recent PM's to me show you do not care or bother to get to the real truth. Do not PM me again.
-SamS
my last post here on the subject... I'm referring specifically to organic farming. Nutrients are released by microbes that have a symbiotic relationship with the plants. These microbes feed off root exudates, as well as the organic matter in the dirt. If the plant needs more food, it releases more exudates to boost the microbial population, the microbes eat more organic matter, and then when they die, which occurs rapidly, the nutrients are made available to the plants. Plants can control how much food is available to them. Even stimulate specific microbes. Just because nutrients are in the soil doesn't mean they're available, which was evident on my soil test.
Sam is right in regards to temperature locking up nutes... Cold temps would decrease microbial activity. This can be used to our advantage in triggering scenescense without a flush.
Sam is also right about spores being everywhere. They just need the right conditions to germinate.
Sam is right in regards to temperature locking up nutes... Cold temps would decrease microbial activity. This can be used to our advantage in triggering scenescense without a flush.
Sam is also right about spores being everywhere. They just need the right conditions to germinate.
Fading plants grown indoor produces a much higher quality finished product/flowers for me. Its a sacrifice for quality over yield when you fade vs feed to finish a plant and i prefer quality. I keep a running ppm journal on all strains and once i know the finish time for a strain i find a 21 day fade works best for me. I can tell a difference if i only do a 14 day fade compared to 21 day, 100% tell difference if theres no fade and so can other people once they have had properly faded flowers. My well water is 200ppm and full of minerals so it helps with fade and by harvest day im still at 400ppm runoff with just plain water for 21 days.
Edit: i run techaflora nutrients in soil
Edit: i run techaflora nutrients in soil
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lol clearly there's a communication barrier here.
so I got some gg4 back in my garden...
so I got some gg4 back in my garden...
I think were communicating fine Bobble. You just taught me something.
I'm not disputing what you are saying at all. Scientifically, it makes alot of sense.
I'm simply stating that I prefer to grow organically and still have some control over what and when the plant eats. And it always tastes better when the plant has no available nutrients for the last few weeks before harvest. ie; straight water and lil to no available nutrients in the soil.
I've never tried to starve a plant via cold temps. At least not on purpose, lol. You just taught me something again Bobble. My cold temps in the winter could be doing my plants harm in more ways than I am aware of.
I'm not disputing what you are saying at all. Scientifically, it makes alot of sense.
I'm simply stating that I prefer to grow organically and still have some control over what and when the plant eats. And it always tastes better when the plant has no available nutrients for the last few weeks before harvest. ie; straight water and lil to no available nutrients in the soil.
I've never tried to starve a plant via cold temps. At least not on purpose, lol. You just taught me something again Bobble. My cold temps in the winter could be doing my plants harm in more ways than I am aware of.
Imo...if you can convert nitrate to complete protein a " fade" does nothing more than make your plant susceptible to disease...when are you most likely to see pm? Oddly enough you cannot have high nitrate and high brix together. Nitrate makes the plant hold onto water diluting the % solids...the basis of brix.
If you can't convert nitrate to protein you best fade it
I am with bobblehead. But we all makes our own choices
If you can't convert nitrate to protein you best fade it
I am with bobblehead. But we all makes our own choices
At the end of the day, each smokers taste buds will tell them all they need to know. And we're all different in that respect. I'm smoking my own buds, grown using different methods. And I personally can taste a huge difference.
But I'm a guy that can pick out his favorite water in a blind taste test.
But I'm a guy that can pick out his favorite water in a blind taste test.
If at the end of flower - 4-5 days before chop - if you just stop watering...period. The roots die - the plants defaults to it's reserves...effectively "flushing" the plant. Granted, drying the soil like that can decrease microbe activity as well...sooo...
But if you're not running beds and are just going to break up the room ball at the end of flower anyway - then it doesn't much matter...so I say dry them out a couple days before chop...works like a charm.
dank.Frank
But if you're not running beds and are just going to break up the room ball at the end of flower anyway - then it doesn't much matter...so I say dry them out a couple days before chop...works like a charm.
dank.Frank
I have been an organic bio-dynamic french intensive farmer for 45 years, Cannabis and 40 kinds of fruit and veggies in my Calif garden, today I stick to sweet corn, heirloom tomatoes and heirloom italian yellow beans, and Cannabis.
That said, when in the winter the light levels fall in my greenhouse, and the temps get lower, and humidity is higher, I get PM on veg mother plants in the ground that are 10 feet tall. I have tried many organic remedies with varying success but my NLD, Sativas do not ever get PM, zero, while many WLD, Indica varieties and NLD, Sativa X WLD, Indicas do get PM, they are healthy as hell, but susceptible to PM as hell, it is their lack of resistance that is the basic problem.
I also fade my plants, but as they are in the soil I have to use experience to add enough N to grow them big over 10 feet, and run out of N before harvest. I have grown the same clones for 25 years and I know that a plant that yellows the last few weeks tastes way better, no question. You do not want harvested plants high in nitrates or nitrites, that is for sure.
-SamS
That said, when in the winter the light levels fall in my greenhouse, and the temps get lower, and humidity is higher, I get PM on veg mother plants in the ground that are 10 feet tall. I have tried many organic remedies with varying success but my NLD, Sativas do not ever get PM, zero, while many WLD, Indica varieties and NLD, Sativa X WLD, Indicas do get PM, they are healthy as hell, but susceptible to PM as hell, it is their lack of resistance that is the basic problem.
I also fade my plants, but as they are in the soil I have to use experience to add enough N to grow them big over 10 feet, and run out of N before harvest. I have grown the same clones for 25 years and I know that a plant that yellows the last few weeks tastes way better, no question. You do not want harvested plants high in nitrates or nitrites, that is for sure.
-SamS
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First of all you need to change your name. eagle 20 is not organic and
Eagle 20's, active ingredient is Myclobutanil, is a PAN Bad Actor Chemical listing three skull and cross bones. This contains, among other scary things, a toxin that can mess with a gentleman's reproductive system. PM is not more evil, Eagle 20 is. You are maybe blinded by the potential loss? Change your name at the least. Do you really smoke that crap? Or just sell it to others that don't know what is on it?
-SamS
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