Broad Mite and Spider Mite IPM for Cannabis (lets get a convo going)

[Former Guest]

there was talk on another thread about nuke em that wanted to know what the active ingredients were and how it worked that discussed rather briefly about the listed active ingredient as citric acid with the inactive ingredients as potassium sorbate and yeast (enzymes). they thought it was the yeast that did it but this product lists the active ingredient as the potassium sorbate and nothing else is listed but the company makes enzymes? I'm wiling to bet that this would work just like nuke em. there was another thread on here discussing that potassium sorbate had a chemical reaction or something that essentially made it potassium salts of fatty acids which is effective against spider mites as well.

 

[caredrivensf]

there was talk on another thread about nuke em that wanted to know what the active ingredients were and how it worked that discussed rather briefly about the listed active ingredient as citric acid with the inactive ingredients as potassium sorbate and yeast (enzymes). they thought it was the yeast that did it but this product lists the active ingredient as the potassium sorbate and nothing else is listed but the company makes enzymes? I'm wiling to bet that this would work just like nuke em. there was another thread on here discussing that potassium sorbate had a chemical reaction or something that essentially made it potassium salts of fatty acids which is effective against spider mites as well.

yes its an Enzyme tht does the trick. I think they list the Potassium Sorbate I think since its the non organic ingredient and the organic stuff is proprietary

 

[stasis]

Read the Broad Mites Thread. Tons of info there. Believe me, You guys are reinventing the wheel. This is one of the most controversial subjects around. Because people cannot or do not take the time to "see" the bugs. This pest really shows itself at the point when it is almost or is too late.

People they take it personally as a failure when a crop is lost. With the info out there, it is ineptitude. No time for arguing, or posturing. Get those bugs..

This thread will fall into the same argumentative stance as the other ones. When a pest is 1/150 inch, and is so hard to kill, you can expect lots of frustration. I was once among those who after countless indoor runs was ruined. Twice in a row in two different states.

I do not have it dialed, or even vanquished..! But, under control. Cleanliness, and a few sprays. Careful with clothes, and equipment. Etc.

BM's are not bothered by water. Nor dryness. All the info is out there.

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

this is a real service. the bm thread is rediculous as a resource to try to mine accurate info. that said these threads should serve as a pointer into further research. so if for instance you think forbid looks good, google til you find siomething along these lines.
http://www.guysinpurple.com/documents/label_forbid.pdf
http://www.cdms.net/LDat/mp6P7001.pdf
from there you can get an idea of how to safely handle and if its even effective. what the eviromental fate and rewsiduals in plants are based on half life studies.
effective dose is essetial too weak and you can breed for resistance already present in the population from industry use.
too strong and residuals and halflives can be understated and you could harm yourself the smoker or the plant itself.
never ever rely soley on forums chem safety info.

 

[caredrivensf]

this is a real service. the bm thread is rediculous as a resource to try to mine accurate info. that said these threads should serve as a pointer into further research. so if for instance you think forbid looks good, google til you find siomething along these lines.
http://www.guysinpurple.com/documents/label_forbid.pdf
http://www.cdms.net/LDat/mp6P7001.pdf.

Thank You for the info. I am only trying to post relative info. and sources. Thank you for doing the same. Wht was your understanding of the links you posted?

 

[caredrivensf]

BM's are not bothered by water. Nor dryness. All the info is out there.

Broads are affected by extreme temps not dryness. Water is for Spider mites player

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

Thank You for the info. I am only trying to post relative info. and sources. Thank you for doing the same. Wht was your understanding of the links you posted?

it was a random google result i was just trying to point out that the msds sheet and product label are a must when dealing with these kinds of products. you info looks well researched and accurate at first glance. i didnt go fact check it but i would encourage anyone to do that just in case a typo or misunderstood label doesnt lead to a bad situation. when i referred to the bm thread i wasnt talking about this one. this is a really good beginning. facts in one concise post at the beginning. from there this cold get more specific or breanch into different philosophies but most folks will be stoked to read all that in the first post.

 

[Former Guest]

So if the application rate is 4 oz per 100 gallons then that is about 1 ml per gallon. But this was also a per acre application rate so how does an acre convert to one gallon pots? This is where people get confused; like me

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

if dealing with a foliar spray, it shouldnt matter what the treatment sizes are as much the solution dilution rate. 1.2 mils per gallon sprayed on a plant is the same regardless of the batch sizeor the number of acres its grown on. for soil applications its a different story.

 

[Former Guest]

perfect! thank you!

but just for shits and giggles lol
7.5 gallons is in one cubic foot of potting soil so if there is 50 cuft in an acre could one assume if they were going to use it as a soil drench, then they could use 375 gallons per acre as a ratio for mixing?

I always find it hard to convert per acre application rates

edit: wait I think I did that wrong...100 sqft is 50 cuft of potting soil. ugh

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

area and volume are not convertible with out more dimensions.

 

[EclipseFour20]

One of my posts from another thread that might get you thinking--

My $0.02--when converting lbs/acre to "5 gallon containers" one can go down several paths with two completely different answers.

1. Linear conversion--lb/acre to grams/sq foot. Assuming the requirement is 435.6 lbs/acre (1 acre = 43560 sq ft) then that equates to 1lb/100 sq feet (453.59 grams/100 sq feet)....or 4.54 grams per sq foot. Which arguably is about the same "surface area" of a 5 gallon container....more or less. (So short cut to convert "per acre" to "per container" is to divide "per acre" quantity by 43560).

2. Plant conversion--lb/acre to grams/plant. Tobacco plants are planted at 7500-8000/acre, dark tobacco 4500-5000/acre, staked tomatoes 3600-5800/acre...to space plants 22 inches apart in rows that are 5 feet apart requires 4760 plants per acre--at 6-foot centers and 18 inches requires 4840 plants per acre.

So lets assume 5000 plants per acre and the requirement is 435.6 lbs/acre....then that equates to 0.08712 lbs/plant (435.60 ÷ 5000) or 39.51 grams/plant. (So short cut to convert "per acre" to "per container" is to divide "per acre" quantity by 5000).

Hmmm...4.54 grams vs 39.51 grams, which is "correct"? Difference between the two is almost a factor of 10! IMHO, somewhere between the two is probably the correct answer...after all "thems just guidelines" (pirate voice), right?

Cheers!

 

[caredrivensf]

One of my posts from another thread that might get you thinking--

My buddy said he thinks he figured out the acre ratios and basically he said that max strength is basically dbl on each product. So avid for example wld be 2.4 ml/gal for max strength.

All and all I want to stay away from chemicals but at the same time these arent closet grows im dealing with

 

[Mikell]

Threads like the BM sticky really do need to be cleaned up. I know it would take dozens of man hours, but each sub-forum conveniently has it's own moderator....

Just bought an All Natural spider mite and broad mite contact killer. Works on all stages of life including eggs.

Big Time Exterminator by Big Tim Hydroponics. They also make my favorite brand of Enzyme.

check em out- http://bigtimezyme.com/html/bigtimeexterminator.html

I can never take companies with that style of marketing and total lack of transparency seriously.

Up the Geocities....

 

[RetroGrow]

OGBiowar is a product containing beneficial microbes that kill broad & cyclamen mites.
Aside from that, heat treatments will kill broad mites & their eggs dead. Broad mites cannot survive temperatures of 120F. One hour treatments, repeated as needed (can be every few days for a few rounds of treatment) will not only kill all mites on plants, but also in the room. This is important, as even if you kill every mite on your plants, they are still in the room and will reestablish themselves. This does not hurt the plants at all. No chemicals at all are needed to kill broad mites. Catchets of Swiirksi mites are also effective as predators, as are neocilious Californicus. The catchets work well, as they are incubators for the predators, and new predators keep emerging.

 

[caredrivensf]

OGBiowar is a product containing beneficial microbes that kill broad & cyclamen mites.
Aside from that, heat treatments will kill broad mites & their eggs dead. Broad mites cannot survive temperatures of 120F. One hour treatments, repeated as needed (can be every few days for a few rounds of treatment) will not only kill all mites on plants, but also in the room. This is important, as even if you kill every mite on your plants, they are still in the room and will reestablish themselves. This does not hurt the plants at all. No chemicals at all are needed to kill broad mites. Catchets of Swiirksi mites are also effective as predators, as are neocilious Californicus. The catchets work well, as they are incubators for the predators, and new predators keep emerging.

thx player

 

[caredrivensf]

I can never take companies with that style of marketing and total lack of transparency seriously.

Up the Geocities....

I hear that but honestly I use their Enzyme and it is way better than cannazym, sensizym, hygrozym, and multizym. Plus this company is in SF. I dont care what Colorado or Washington has to say, we BEEN doing it out here in the bay since day 1. Products for norcal are the truth.

 

[caredrivensf]

IT wld be helpful if the MODS wld let me edit the OP so all the correct info. can be easily readable copyable once we determine the best IPM out there. I threw in my 2 cents about an IPM for these 2 bugs, can some more experienced growers chime in an lets do this!!!!

 

[caredrivensf]

IT wld be helpful if the MODS wld let me edit the OP so all the correct info. can be easily readable copyable once we determine the best IPM out there. I threw in my 2 cents about an IPM for these 2 bugs, can some more experienced growers chime in an lets do this!!!!

Retro whts your course of action??

 

[Former Guest]

IT wld be helpful if the MODS wld let me edit the OP so all the correct info. can be easily readable copyable once we determine the best IPM out there. I threw in my 2 cents about an IPM for these 2 bugs, can some more experienced growers chime in an lets do this!!!!

you'll be allowed after a week's time and 50 posts.