greening clones for rooting???
- Thread starter Bud-Boy
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BigBozat
Member
Sure, Why Not
Sure, Why Not
FWIW, a lil surprised you take clone cuttings late into flowering ('flowing'?), but that said...
Yes, you can...
But you prolly have to be particularly careful/nuanced about balancing the amount/type/timing of application -vs.- allowing the targeted undergrowth to 'breathe' (i.e., not impair stomata so as to allow proper intake of carbon & exhange/transpiration of CO2 & oxygen)... esp. if you use a foliar spray that utilizes a 'sticker'-type surfactant that can clog or otherwise impair stomata functioning...
... and you'll have to be nuanced with applying it only to the local sites you're targeting (the pale undergrowth), and not the entire plant... as well as judicious in the amounts of N applied (since its mobile) or other nutes you don't want showing up in the finished/finishing buds of the flowering tops...
Since the paleness/lack of green is N def in the old leaf undergrowth, greening it up will take some N... But, uptake of primary macronutes (like N) via foliar spraying is [relatively] poor/inefficient, and since N is mobile in plants, you'll need to be careful not to overdo it - assuming you're N-def'ing during this stage - lest you risk extending flowering and/or introducing some unpleasant taste/harshness to finished product... Urea form is N is most suitable to foliar spraying...
Uptake of some secondary macronutes - e.g., Cal & Mg - and micronutes/trace mins - esp, e.g., iron & boron -is [relatively] better... If self-mixing, include some dolomitic lime (dissolve in slightly acidic water) and/or hort Epsom salts at, say, maybe 1~2 tblsp ea per gal water?
You may also want to consider foliars that include PGRs that inhibit leaf senescence, e.g., cytokinins (kinetin, zeatin, 6-BAP, etc.) & maybe certain polyamines (putrescenie, cadaverine, spermidine, etc.)? While it's still on the flowering plant, the aim at this point is a high cytokinin:auxin ratio (cytokinin > auxin = inhibition of leaf senescence & root formation)... and/or the inhibition of ethylene production...
An easy natural source for cytokinins is coconut water (dilute 10:1), which also contains all sorts of other stuff... most liquid kelp/seaweed products also tend to have significant amounts of cytokinins, too ('tho see elsewhere below in re: KelPak)
I'm no expert on the marketplace for foliar sprays (I tend towards the 'mad scientist' side of things & so mix my own experimental stuff) or surfactants, so I can't really recommend any particular foliar product/surfactant off the top of my head... but if you scan around I'm sure you can find some easy enough (e.g., I think AN's Bud Blood has cytokinins in it, 'tho its high P & K formulation is really more intended towards whole plant spraying to improve bud formation/growth, not localized prevention of leaf senescence)
Prolly want to use some sort of screen to help keep the foliar directed at only the targeted undergrowth (like using a piece of card board to prevent mist from landing on new/upper growth)... and feed during dark hours so light doesn't evaporate salts onto leaf surface and cause burn)... surfactants can help nutes penetrate/spread/stick, but try to avoid using surafctants that can clog stomata & shut down photosynthesis (Wet Betty? IDK, haven't looked into it enough)
After taking the cuttings to clone, the goal switches to a high auxin:cytokinin ratio (auxins > cytokinins = promotion of root growth)... so, obviously treating them with your standard (auxin) IBA-based rooting compound before planting is beneficial... also consider further auxin supplementation, such as KelPak liquid seaweed concentrate (KelPak is derived from a diff species of kelp than the usu. liquid kelp, and so - unlike most kelp products - has a very high ratio of auxins-to-cytokinins)
Sure, Why Not
FWIW, a lil surprised you take clone cuttings late into flowering ('flowing'?), but that said...
Yes, you can...
But you prolly have to be particularly careful/nuanced about balancing the amount/type/timing of application -vs.- allowing the targeted undergrowth to 'breathe' (i.e., not impair stomata so as to allow proper intake of carbon & exhange/transpiration of CO2 & oxygen)... esp. if you use a foliar spray that utilizes a 'sticker'-type surfactant that can clog or otherwise impair stomata functioning...
... and you'll have to be nuanced with applying it only to the local sites you're targeting (the pale undergrowth), and not the entire plant... as well as judicious in the amounts of N applied (since its mobile) or other nutes you don't want showing up in the finished/finishing buds of the flowering tops...
Since the paleness/lack of green is N def in the old leaf undergrowth, greening it up will take some N... But, uptake of primary macronutes (like N) via foliar spraying is [relatively] poor/inefficient, and since N is mobile in plants, you'll need to be careful not to overdo it - assuming you're N-def'ing during this stage - lest you risk extending flowering and/or introducing some unpleasant taste/harshness to finished product... Urea form is N is most suitable to foliar spraying...
Uptake of some secondary macronutes - e.g., Cal & Mg - and micronutes/trace mins - esp, e.g., iron & boron -is [relatively] better... If self-mixing, include some dolomitic lime (dissolve in slightly acidic water) and/or hort Epsom salts at, say, maybe 1~2 tblsp ea per gal water?
You may also want to consider foliars that include PGRs that inhibit leaf senescence, e.g., cytokinins (kinetin, zeatin, 6-BAP, etc.) & maybe certain polyamines (putrescenie, cadaverine, spermidine, etc.)? While it's still on the flowering plant, the aim at this point is a high cytokinin:auxin ratio (cytokinin > auxin = inhibition of leaf senescence & root formation)... and/or the inhibition of ethylene production...
An easy natural source for cytokinins is coconut water (dilute 10:1), which also contains all sorts of other stuff... most liquid kelp/seaweed products also tend to have significant amounts of cytokinins, too ('tho see elsewhere below in re: KelPak)
I'm no expert on the marketplace for foliar sprays (I tend towards the 'mad scientist' side of things & so mix my own experimental stuff) or surfactants, so I can't really recommend any particular foliar product/surfactant off the top of my head... but if you scan around I'm sure you can find some easy enough (e.g., I think AN's Bud Blood has cytokinins in it, 'tho its high P & K formulation is really more intended towards whole plant spraying to improve bud formation/growth, not localized prevention of leaf senescence)
Prolly want to use some sort of screen to help keep the foliar directed at only the targeted undergrowth (like using a piece of card board to prevent mist from landing on new/upper growth)... and feed during dark hours so light doesn't evaporate salts onto leaf surface and cause burn)... surfactants can help nutes penetrate/spread/stick, but try to avoid using surafctants that can clog stomata & shut down photosynthesis (Wet Betty? IDK, haven't looked into it enough)
After taking the cuttings to clone, the goal switches to a high auxin:cytokinin ratio (auxins > cytokinins = promotion of root growth)... so, obviously treating them with your standard (auxin) IBA-based rooting compound before planting is beneficial... also consider further auxin supplementation, such as KelPak liquid seaweed concentrate (KelPak is derived from a diff species of kelp than the usu. liquid kelp, and so - unlike most kelp products - has a very high ratio of auxins-to-cytokinins)
Can I foliar feed to get them a little more healthy?
The easy option is,..
undo fly
pee into a cup
inset teaspoon
measure 1x teaspoon of pee to a pint hand sprayer
fill with warm water(pint sprayer) and shake
spray 2-3 times a day until you are happy
THIS IS NO SHIT ...
The easy option is,..
undo fly
pee into a cup
inset teaspoon
measure 1x teaspoon of pee to a pint hand sprayer
fill with warm water(pint sprayer) and shake
spray 2-3 times a day until you are happy
THIS IS NO SHIT ...
they will take longer to root because they are late into flower... but im pretty sure recent applications of N actually slow down rooting rather than speed it up.
try to find cutings with as much leaf but as little bud as possible, do a few from each plant as some may not take root
GL
VG
try to find cutings with as much leaf but as little bud as possible, do a few from each plant as some may not take root
GL
VG
BigBozat
Member
Yup, I agree...
To clarify:
I wasn't suggesting N/urea in foliar spray to enhance rooting, per se... that job, instead, is for the auxin/IBA...
Rather was simply suggesting that - to the extent the Q is really more concerned about 'greening up' the lower growth prior to taking a cutting for cloning - the pale in the lower growth is [at least partly] attributable to N def during the late flowering & thus targeted/limited application to local site via foliar spray would help 'green it up'... although, since N is mobile, it's likely to get transported up, and so any benefit to the lower growth will likely be ephemeral/transient...
This obviously isn't a how to on cuttings
This is the typical, oh man, how did we miss these genetics in a neighbors garden
Or police took all the cuts now we have to save the genes
Or catapillars hatched one evening and mowed through all their green
Or
Or
My purple creme came from a bud on an uprooted, discarded stalk from our depro last year. Took about 4 weeks to root one tiny root
So every year I grab what I can when I can
And there is no room for prep or on the stalk greening
Many times thes cuts ride in my mouth till i get some water to em
Juuuussssttt curious if these starving girls sitting in their bubble cloner
Can "eat"
Or vitalize
Sans roots
This is the typical, oh man, how did we miss these genetics in a neighbors garden
Or police took all the cuts now we have to save the genes
Or catapillars hatched one evening and mowed through all their green
Or
Or
My purple creme came from a bud on an uprooted, discarded stalk from our depro last year. Took about 4 weeks to root one tiny root
So every year I grab what I can when I can
And there is no room for prep or on the stalk greening
Many times thes cuts ride in my mouth till i get some water to em
Juuuussssttt curious if these starving girls sitting in their bubble cloner
Can "eat"
Or vitalize
Sans roots
Last edited:
BigBozat
Member
Friend had success with light spraying with Nitrozyme... Worked for her, even tho' others warned it would be counterproductive (argument was something along the lines of feeding from the top would distract plant from root formation)...
JointOperation
Active member
yes u can.. but its not going to make a difference really. either way ur going to have a long reveg ahead of u.. unless they arent in flower that much..
BigBozat
Member
Oh, and I almost forgot: Microbe Life/Eco labs makes a decent foliar spray & root dip that contains mycos + nitro-fixing bacteria + humates (have used myself & like as well as any other microbial foliar... 'tho I tend to be a bit dubious about the benefit of any ectomycos included in it)...
