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Lime green new growth
- Thread starter jdyer23
- Start date
Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
Ok ur stats look good except humidity. 30% will be a problem. Try and keep that at 50% min, preferably 70% during veg. So with low humidity, high ph in water and 50% peat which is high ph too, Id say that is ur likely culprit. Measure ur runoff water ph after u water ur plants. My guess is ur gonna come out above 7. If so start feeding with 6.2 ish till u get urself down to 6.5 runoff, and u should be in a lot better shape, along with fixing the humidity. Im pretty darn sure this is whats going on since ive had the same probs before as well. Tackle those issues and see if they start to green up for ya. gl, ur on ur way to getting them straightened out.
with 30% Rh in veg I'll bet VPD is the culprit.
2-3 days @60%-70% and it bounces right back.
also VPD gives the impression of lock out with a mag def usually the main symptoms I get along with general yellowing.
unless soil Ph is wacked my monies on VPD
regardless get your Rh---> UP
2-3 days @60%-70% and it bounces right back.
also VPD gives the impression of lock out with a mag def usually the main symptoms I get along with general yellowing.
unless soil Ph is wacked my monies on VPD
regardless get your Rh---> UP
yeah but you should see it in the leaves before the stems. ive got quite a few purple stemmed mothers as well.
Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
Have u looked at his leaves. lol P deficiency can cause purple stems and petioles.
It can also be a genetic characteristic.
Low humidity can also cause K def. speaking to the OP's low hum. prob.
when VPD come on it dependent onRh
and if Rh is very low things happen fast,
very fast, i thought i would lose my plants in a matter of days if i didn't figure it out.
i did
and after 2-3 days with Rh back to 65-70% things got better very fast.
VPD moves quickly.
here's pics of VPD symptoms
Ok, 63 is too low. That'll cause problems with nutrient uptake and health. In a pot that big, if your night temps are getting to 63 they'll be stating at 63 a while into the day cycle. During that whole period they won't process and work like they should, that puts a big stress on the plant. It's one of the most overlooked aspects of growing.
When people think about temps, they usually think of high canopy temps and low Rh, and the low temp of the rootzone is the last concern.
It should be the first out of the three of them.
Plants can grow in low humidity, high temps, and turn out fine with a couple of little adjustments, like not having lights too close to the canopy etc. But chill those root zones to 17c and below and it'll massively impact on the health of your plant and your end yields.
What happens then is the plant isn't able to process the nutrients and the light becomes a stress factor, rather than something it thrives on. The leaves hide from the light to protect themselves, and that's what you have there.
Get that sorted first with a little thermo heater, and make sure they're not sitting directly on the floor.
Also, transitioning into a 40L pot when you're using compost and organics requires a good bit of attention and care when you're watering. Any water & organic feed combo that just sits there in empty pot space where there are no roots to take it up, turns anaerobic and stale, that's a problem which can lead to serious issues when the roots eventually grow into an environment full of bad bacteria.
Almost all the time, if your roots have got a good environment, your plant will thrive. It's the engine room of your plant.
When you watered in your big pots, did you get run through and when? On your 1st or 2nd watering etc?
When people think about temps, they usually think of high canopy temps and low Rh, and the low temp of the rootzone is the last concern.
It should be the first out of the three of them.
Plants can grow in low humidity, high temps, and turn out fine with a couple of little adjustments, like not having lights too close to the canopy etc. But chill those root zones to 17c and below and it'll massively impact on the health of your plant and your end yields.
What happens then is the plant isn't able to process the nutrients and the light becomes a stress factor, rather than something it thrives on. The leaves hide from the light to protect themselves, and that's what you have there.
Get that sorted first with a little thermo heater, and make sure they're not sitting directly on the floor.
Also, transitioning into a 40L pot when you're using compost and organics requires a good bit of attention and care when you're watering. Any water & organic feed combo that just sits there in empty pot space where there are no roots to take it up, turns anaerobic and stale, that's a problem which can lead to serious issues when the roots eventually grow into an environment full of bad bacteria.
Almost all the time, if your roots have got a good environment, your plant will thrive. It's the engine room of your plant.
When you watered in your big pots, did you get run through and when? On your 1st or 2nd watering etc?
Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
Yeah I didn't absorb that 63 degree temp too. Good catch papduc, that and raising the humidity will straighten ur plants right out I bet.
gl
gl
Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
I don't know about fluoride and arsenic levels. But high sodium levels aren't good. I think u could get away with that water, but if u have funds and opportunity, u could go ro water and u know for sure it wont be a prob.
My water comes out 500 ppm or 1ec, and thats the amount I normally feed them. So 100% of the strength of my feed is equaled by who knows what elements. That to me is way to much chance of messing up my nutrient ratios. Even at half that I would rather use ro so I know exactly what im giving my plants. this makes my nutrient and problem solving issues super easy.
My water comes out 500 ppm or 1ec, and thats the amount I normally feed them. So 100% of the strength of my feed is equaled by who knows what elements. That to me is way to much chance of messing up my nutrient ratios. Even at half that I would rather use ro so I know exactly what im giving my plants. this makes my nutrient and problem solving issues super easy.
Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
Wow, I hope u got 10' ceilings.
On the first watering in a pot that big, there should be no run off at all, just a quick sprinkle with the hose. On the next, same thing. The next, same again. In a pot that big, even if the plant's growing like a beast, you shouldn't see run off for at least a week. The roots won't have nearly filled the pot yet and that water just sits there to go stale. In organics you've got to be much more careful with that. In coco you could use chlorine/bleach to safeguard against that problem.
What's the NPK of your feeds, and how high are the sodium levels in your water?
