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I just started my first Micro grow need help!
- Thread starter newkid
- Start date
hicksticky
Still at large...
pro-mix is used for a base, with it you add ewc (earth worm compost), and/or compost (micro life present), amendments, perlite or other aeration additives for good drainage, lime ect.
for amendments you should get your hand on something like espoma or FF line of adds-(plant tone, all in one) for an example. that way you dont have to get 10-20 different ad's its already made. Use that link I posted it is a really good starting point. I use a modified L.C. mix
Organics IMO isn't that hard to get into, but its as complicated as the others, it is VERY IMPORTANT that use have a good soil mix. A good soil works for you, not you work for it. once done a lot of people agree that PH problems should stop being a problem because the soil would buffer it's self, not saying you should dump out of wack ph water in it but like I said a good mix works its self with the buffer added (lime, ash, ect..).
Best advise is go to that link read it 3-10 times and find a mix and then find the additives that are available to you in your area build it and then you can improve upon it as time and experience comes.
for amendments you should get your hand on something like espoma or FF line of adds-(plant tone, all in one) for an example. that way you dont have to get 10-20 different ad's its already made. Use that link I posted it is a really good starting point. I use a modified L.C. mix
Organics IMO isn't that hard to get into, but its as complicated as the others, it is VERY IMPORTANT that use have a good soil mix. A good soil works for you, not you work for it. once done a lot of people agree that PH problems should stop being a problem because the soil would buffer it's self, not saying you should dump out of wack ph water in it but like I said a good mix works its self with the buffer added (lime, ash, ect..).
Best advise is go to that link read it 3-10 times and find a mix and then find the additives that are available to you in your area build it and then you can improve upon it as time and experience comes.
hicksticky
Still at large...
you can do both, but you should get a bubblier set up it will become very useful as time goes. pre-filtering is good also you want to get rid of the chlorine but not the others such as cal and mag..ect
newkid
Member
Thanks for the instructions for water... the soil I have has organic compost, potash, perlite etc. I hope they take to it.
My plan is to add stuff when I re pot. I'll pick up some lime, humidifier and a bubbler. I will save the epsom for later when they use up this soil.
Does anyone have info on Alfalfa meal??
As time goes on a pre buffered soil should become more acidic right? and the lime brings it back up.(increases H+ ion content)??
Thanks
My plan is to add stuff when I re pot. I'll pick up some lime, humidifier and a bubbler. I will save the epsom for later when they use up this soil.
Does anyone have info on Alfalfa meal??
As time goes on a pre buffered soil should become more acidic right? and the lime brings it back up.(increases H+ ion content)??
Thanks
newkid
Member
I trimmed off the dead leaves. Is it safe to foiler feed them with hydrated epsom, EW,C or alfalfa tea? The temp is low enough just wondering if it will cause competition for nutrient up take, but I thought it could be a good idea if roots are trying to re establish.
Will get lime soon nursery is like an hour away so haven't gotten around to it yet.
Will get lime soon nursery is like an hour away so haven't gotten around to it yet.
Big d. I seen your bottle clone rand folgers clone rand was interested in them. How quick do you get roots and what kind of solution do you put in them? I'm trying to get a perpetual grow goin and had just recently built a micro cab still a work in progress but could also use some tips on things any advice would be greatly appreciated
Hey newkid, looking good 
I suppose you could foliar feed but I wouldn't. Id let them grow until they recover completely but personally I don't foliar feed so I can't really say.
I hope things are progressing well.. keep us informed.
Happy growing!
I suppose you could foliar feed but I wouldn't. Id let them grow until they recover completely but personally I don't foliar feed so I can't really say.
I hope things are progressing well.. keep us informed.
Hey B Rad! I get roots with my bubble cloners any where from 5-14 days. The most important thing is to make sure your temps are not to cold. They take alot longer. Try to keep your temps between 74-80 degrees f.
Happy growing!
newkid
Member
Whats up guys! ?Heres an update. Have the temp at a pretty consistent 74-77F, and humidity 50-56%.
They really like that organic and run off is around 6.5(haven't added lime yet, checking pH every couple days).
Soil will become more acidic as plant takes up nutrients and micro herds get busy right?
Any suggestion on foiler feeding or teas? I read that organic thread a few times over that sticky posted lots of info very helpful.
I know I can get my hands on alfalfa meal, OWC, kelp meal, lime and epsom I feel like this is a decent mix is there any macro or micro I am missing? Plan on amending my soil as well as using teas and foiler still looking for a good feeding schedule out there for veg. Seems like once a week is regular for feeding?
Also any suggests on when I should re pot? Its only been a week and a half since transplant from MG to organic and holy shit what a difference.
Thanks for your guys help so far
PEACE
They really like that organic and run off is around 6.5(haven't added lime yet, checking pH every couple days).
Soil will become more acidic as plant takes up nutrients and micro herds get busy right?
Any suggestion on foiler feeding or teas? I read that organic thread a few times over that sticky posted lots of info very helpful.
I know I can get my hands on alfalfa meal, OWC, kelp meal, lime and epsom I feel like this is a decent mix is there any macro or micro I am missing? Plan on amending my soil as well as using teas and foiler still looking for a good feeding schedule out there for veg. Seems like once a week is regular for feeding?
Also any suggests on when I should re pot? Its only been a week and a half since transplant from MG to organic and holy shit what a difference.
Thanks for your guys help so far
PEACE
Attachments
hicksticky
Still at large...
Hey great to hear that their turning for the better.
Now as for you questions, I'll try my best.
they look like they can stay in those for a week or so more (get that rot ball nice and full remember the top reflects the bottom (roots) and vise versa I'd say from the looks of them they can put on some more veg and also TP will stress them a lil.
now for feeding I do a EWC tea with molasses mostly in veg. now with this tea I am building the micro herd that breaks down the plant food with in the soil, but it also brings with it NPK, I my self am still a student in organics and I am try to learn more on teas.
Your run off sound good, what is it before it goes in? as far as the lime you can add it to soil you add for a trans plant (2tbls per gal of soil)
well keep up the fight, those girls will hopefully thank you in a few months.
Now as for you questions, I'll try my best.
they look like they can stay in those for a week or so more (get that rot ball nice and full remember the top reflects the bottom (roots) and vise versa I'd say from the looks of them they can put on some more veg and also TP will stress them a lil.
now for feeding I do a EWC tea with molasses mostly in veg. now with this tea I am building the micro herd that breaks down the plant food with in the soil, but it also brings with it NPK, I my self am still a student in organics and I am try to learn more on teas.
Your run off sound good, what is it before it goes in? as far as the lime you can add it to soil you add for a trans plant (2tbls per gal of soil)
well keep up the fight, those girls will hopefully thank you in a few months.
newkid
Member
Hey its 7.0 before it goes in. Currently Im just foiler feeding them with epsom going to go get a bubbler in the next couple of days for teas. Does it have to be suflur free molasses? Should I add stuff to my potting mix before I repot? I am going to get the things I listed, above should I get anything else for soil/teas?
Thanks
Thanks
hicksticky
Still at large...
yes you want un-sulfured molasses, and you should pre mix the soil but be careful some ingredients are too hot and require time to "cook".
As far as teas, find a good recipe thats been proven and go with it, theres is a couple of threads around that would take alot of the work out of it.
good luck and karma, Hick
newkid
Member
Hey getting some discolouration and purple branches, stronger plants branches are more purple. what are your thoughts? The ph going in is 7 and run off is around 6.6, I doubt they are too big already for the pot and I think the soil has enough nutes in it to last them three weeks? On the bag of soil it says 0.5-0.4-0.2 still trying to figure out this ratio. I have been letting chlorine water sit out over night before I feed them except last watering I forgot to filter or evaporate chlorine...
Attachments
Hey bro!
I think you're over watering. Be sure to let the soil dry out... those plants should be able to go awhile between waterings. I would not use tap water, RO would be better. It eliminates that which could be a problem, plus it's a micro grow so it's not like your using alot of water.
they can grow in those cups for awhile too. you can top feed with lime and you can add Epsom to your water.
But let the soil DRY first!
Less is more
what is your light situation?
do u have a fan?
Peace...
I think you're over watering. Be sure to let the soil dry out... those plants should be able to go awhile between waterings. I would not use tap water, RO would be better. It eliminates that which could be a problem, plus it's a micro grow so it's not like your using alot of water.
they can grow in those cups for awhile too. you can top feed with lime and you can add Epsom to your water.
But let the soil DRY first!
Less is more
what is your light situation?
do u have a fan?
Peace...
BigBozat
Member
Yes, rooting /cloning compound could have helped
Yes, rooting /cloning compound could have helped
Dunno why no one replied to your Q earlier, but yes it could have helped. Establishing / growing roots is a large part of your rescue mission here. Most rooters work via auxins (plant hormones that promote root growth) (esp. IBA & NAA), and also tend to have some trace mins. And there are rooting enhancers that feature mycorrhizal fungi (and/or rhizobacteria) that's be helpful, too (myco fungi establish a symbiotic relationship with the roots & provide nutes to them in exchange for exudates that the roots give off)... more healthy mycos generally means more fine root mass, better nutrient/water uptake...
Speaking of which, yes, it looks like you're overwatering. Better to risk drought stress than to perpetuate root rot.
G'luck
Yes, rooting /cloning compound could have helped
Dunno why no one replied to your Q earlier, but yes it could have helped. Establishing / growing roots is a large part of your rescue mission here. Most rooters work via auxins (plant hormones that promote root growth) (esp. IBA & NAA), and also tend to have some trace mins. And there are rooting enhancers that feature mycorrhizal fungi (and/or rhizobacteria) that's be helpful, too (myco fungi establish a symbiotic relationship with the roots & provide nutes to them in exchange for exudates that the roots give off)... more healthy mycos generally means more fine root mass, better nutrient/water uptake...
Speaking of which, yes, it looks like you're overwatering. Better to risk drought stress than to perpetuate root rot.
G'luck
newkid
Member
yeah I got two fans running 24 /7 we are having a heat wave here the last week temps have been closer to 80 in grow room, I also have an auto humidifier that keep RH at around 50%, I know I want to get that up to 60-65 but I dont have money for another humidifier at the moment.
I am running 2-42 watt CFLs, and 1-23 watt CFL 24/7, with the addition of 2 other 23 watt cfls for 10 hours per day I would keep them all going 24/7 but temp was getting too high. I water around every 72 hours just been weighing dry soil, and when they get to that weight I re water but I realize the plant is putting on weight so I stopped that method and just water when cups are dry.
The bigger one was really droopy and I watered and It perked back up. They aren't yellowing just lighter green blotches.
I am using a soil with MYCO fungi in it, my main focus right now is ph and making sure enough nutes in soil for the next week. the bag says 0.5-0.4-0.2 for NPK but I don't know how to convert this to ratio .
I know Im being a bit redundant, just want to get these girls to harvest
I am running 2-42 watt CFLs, and 1-23 watt CFL 24/7, with the addition of 2 other 23 watt cfls for 10 hours per day I would keep them all going 24/7 but temp was getting too high. I water around every 72 hours just been weighing dry soil, and when they get to that weight I re water but I realize the plant is putting on weight so I stopped that method and just water when cups are dry.
The bigger one was really droopy and I watered and It perked back up. They aren't yellowing just lighter green blotches.
I am using a soil with MYCO fungi in it, my main focus right now is ph and making sure enough nutes in soil for the next week. the bag says 0.5-0.4-0.2 for NPK but I don't know how to convert this to ratio .
I know Im being a bit redundant, just want to get these girls to harvest
BigBozat
Member
yeah I got two fans running 24 /7 we are having a heat wave here the last week temps have been closer to 80 in grow room, I also have an auto humidifier that keep RH at around 50%, I know I want to get that up to 60-65 but I dont have money for another humidifier at the moment.
I am running 2-42 watt CFLs, and 1-23 watt CFL 24/7, with the addition of 2 other 23 watt cfls for 10 hours per day I would keep them all going 24/7 but temp was getting too high. I water around every 72 hours just been weighing dry soil, and when they get to that weight I re water but I realize the plant is putting on weight so I stopped that method and just water when cups are dry.
The bigger one was really droopy and I watered and It perked back up. They aren't yellowing just lighter green blotches.
I am using a soil with MYCO fungi in it, my main focus right now is ph and making sure enough nutes in soil for the next week. the bag says 0.5-0.4-0.2 for NPK but I don't know how to convert this to ratio .
I know Im being a bit redundant, just want to get these girls to harvest
Unless your soil is waaaaaaaay off (like huge amounts of wood ash making it too alkaline/basic or excessive peat or ammonium nitrate from fertilizer making it too acidic), you shouldn't really have to worry about pH so much... and from what I think I read here earlier in re: your runoff, it doesn't seem so... dialing in pH control is really more a concern for hydro, which you're not doing...
As an aside:
An earlier commenter rec'd dolomitic limestone for pH'ing... fwiw, that's true only if you need to raise the pH of very acidic soil... at 7.0 going in, and 6.5 or so coming out, your's is not what I'd consider particularly acidic, so not much benefit to be had... if you need to lower pH, peat or sulfur are your options (be very careful w/ sulfur; must soils are not deficient in it, and it's easy to go overboard and really frick up the soil)
If I understand correctly, 'the bag' is your Myke's potting soil mix; the 0.5-0.4-0.2 is the NPK of the fertilizer that's already mixed into it. The relatively low amounts of NPK are a good thing at this point, given what the plants have been through & their stage of development ('tho I'd still like to know whether the pre-mixed ferts were chemically chelated vs. biologically... if the former, even at relatively low NPK levels, still bad news for the mycos & other microbes in your soil).
You don't want to start feeding heavy fert doses until after you've established good root mass.
And when you DO start feeding nutes, you don't want to kill off the microherd in the soil by dosing them with chemically-chelated fertilizers...
I don't understand what 'ratio' you're trying to convert it into?
If you're asking about additional/subsequent fertilizer application rates for when the plant is ready to aggressively veg, then I'd what I'd recommend is doing is making AACTs (actively aerated compost teas) and SSTs (sprouted seed teas). Lots of good recipes floating around other threads, so I won't bother regurgitating here...
fwiw, for AACTs I'd recommend alfalfa meal + soybean meal + kelp meal + fish bone meal + crab meal, hi N bat guano, EWC, greensand, azomite, unsulfured molasses, coconut water (yes, coconut water... lots of good stuff), aloe vera juice, and a tea starter (check out Xtreme Gardening or KISS)...
for SSTs, sprout alfalfa seeds, corn kernels, barley, oats... and more coconut water...
If your tap water has chloramine in it (many municipal water systems use it now; get the annual water quality report from your local water utility), don't use your tap water... chloramine doesn't dissipate by aeration like chlorine does, so you're gonna have to use distilled water (or RO water)...
