The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

[OvergrowDaWorld]

Most of my plants are at week 6 and its gonna rain on wed and thur.
Im contiplating covering them with plastic to keep the rain off them but that would be alot of work. Damn I wish I had more control over this guerilla grow. but its a guerilla grow, so........you know.... it is what it is I guess.
Next couple days are gonna be gorgeous! Just wish the rain would hold off for 3 weeks.

 

[JointOperation]

just run out there in the morning after the rain OGW.. and give them all a nice shake.. as long as there is sun out.. should be ok..

but good luck. id check em daily when raining.. to give a shake to make sure not to much moisture is staying on them for long periods of time.

 

[nomaad]

tom hill blessed me with about 100 monkey haze for next season. Looking forward to it.

Are you going to run from seed next year or will you do a selection project over the winter?

 

[Backyard Farmer]

I probably will do them all at once in the spring in my green house and black out

 

[Cep]

Pulling tops off the last few days:

My biggest problem right now is not enough drying space!

 

[Backyard Farmer]

thats a good problem to have. this is going to be the first year where I won't have to worry about space

 

[OvergrowDaWorld]

Can I spray Serenade on my 4x GG#4's 3 weeks before harvest to ensure no budrot ruins the buds?

 

[milkyjoe]

Spray food...not poison.provide your plants rhe energy and enzyme nutrition to weather the storm. Bud rot occurs when mold that consumes dead organic matter perceives your plant to be electrically dead. Give them enough stored energy that they can ride through the lack of energy when the sun does not shine.

Do you need a flu shot if you are full of energy and have a healthy immune system?

 

[OvergrowDaWorld]

What do you suggest I feed with, to give them the proper enzyme nutrition they need?
I gave them a top dressing of Worm Castings 1-0-0 and Bat Guano 0-10-0 and watered them real good twice so far.
They dont have a strong soil mix at all.
If I strengthen the soil next season, this should help to combat this?

I sprayed them lightly with a fine mist of Serenade at sundown yesterday.... hoping this helps.
After seeing just a few buds with rot it scared me alot. I dont want to loose the majority of my grow,
which is GG#4. Thats gonna be the bulk weight at the end, which will boost the #'s up signifigantly.
I would hate to see all the buds getting rot within the next 3 weeks.
This rot shit happens overnight! You can almost watch that shit grow!

 

[milkyjoe]

This answer is gonna be a bit esoteric for some but here goes anyway. All living things must be able to conduct an electrical current. When you are really fucked what does the doctor hook up to you...an electro cg (ecg) or monitors your brain for ec basically...if he finds none you to would quickly become mold food.

I will skip the pH aspect but you can bet your sap pH is in the 5s...and it is a safe bet that is a lack of Ca and K. You will also need P to tranfer energy and some ultra traces to form enzymes to make reactions occur quicker. And then you want some Silica because of its mold fighting properties. And lastly some Mg to support chlorophyll.

There are some excellent choices but they require shipping...so hydro or farm store:

1) a silica product and I don't even remember the names...just make sure it is potassium silicate.
2) a liquid kelp and/or a sea water product for ultra traces
3) epsom salt or one of those "sweet" products for Mg
4) the hard one to get is Ca. Your best bet would be making a soft rock slurry if you can find it. That covers both Ca and P. If you can't find that look for micronized calcium carbonate and then use phosphoric acid. If that fails and you have to order I can suggest something much better

Don't use Nitrogen at this point cause your plant will not have the energy to convert the nitrate into protein and it will make for bad taste

Good luck

 

[OvergrowDaWorld]

Thanx!
I ran out of Cal-Mag+ 2 weeks ago. Ill pick some up.
The top dressing of Bat Guano at 0-10-0 should help with the P.

I usually use DynaGro's - Pro-Tekt Silica Solution while in veg but didnt on these outdoor plants. Next year its new soil, Silicone, etc..etc..

 

[milkyjoe]

Do not use calmag at this point. The calcium comes from calcium nitrate and it is certain your plants do not have the energy to convert that nitrate into ptotein

 

[Bulldog420]

Looking proper pono, nice work.

 

[Stoney Johnson]

Yeah last year was rugged in So Or. A month without sun from fires, early and frequent frost, plenty of rain.
I have not fed(foliar) the girls in awhile. I still have some kelp, maybe I should give them a snack?I have some molassas and a lacto b.

what are peeps doing with watering right now? They seem to be drinking a lot less. I have gone from daily to three days. They are still moist from last weeks rain.

One of my favorite gardens Pono

 

[Bulldog420]

My girls are covered in a green house and I went from 20-30 gal a day to 5 gal in 3-4 days.

 

[Stoney Johnson]

Thanks Bulldog. I monitored with a moisture meter last year. late Sept and they just were not thirsty anymore.

 

[milkyjoe]

I want to make it to the full moon at least. Use that natural gravity cycle. Stiil prepared to go anytime I have to. With you on that Pono.

 

[plastochron]

1) a silica product and I don't even remember the names...just make sure it is potassium silicate.
2) a liquid kelp and/or a sea water product for ultra traces
3) epsom salt or one of those "sweet" products for Mg
4) the hard one to get is Ca. Your best bet would be making a soft rock slurry if you can find it. That covers both Ca and P. If you can't find that look for micronized calcium carbonate and then use phosphoric acid. If that fails and you have to order I can suggest something much better

Don't use Nitrogen at this point cause your plant will not have the energy to convert the nitrate into protein and it will make for bad taste

Good luck

milky,

are those recommendations for foliar or drench? if drench, still sticking with EC of 0.7?

for the late Nitrogen use, what if you are using amino acids instead of nitrate or ammonium? would you still be worried about the chemmy flavor?

lastly, you mentioned using 'sweet' products as a source of Mg at this point. do you worry about the introduction of simple sugars encouraging budrot?

 

[OvergrowDaWorld]

Solid advice milky. I've been spraying cal25 once a week @ half strength and was gonna hit my Hindus today for the last time, I hope they can make it the 12th or so to catch a few full moon nights before chop. My only other foliar now is kelp with actinovate, and the Hindus got their last one yesterday. Everything just got a strong dose of seabird and bat guano also. [URL="https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=54823&pictureid=1324494&thumb=1"]View Image[/URL] [URL="https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=54823&pictureid=1324493&thumb=1"]View Image[/URL]

Ill pick up some Potassium Silicate, Liquid Kelp, "Sweet" product for Mg, and micronized calcium carbonate.
Ive never even heard of this stuff. I guess if Im gonna grow bigger plants guerilla style, I better learn the basics real quick.
Its like Im learning how to grow all over again. I've been growing indoor so long and only small plants in 5gl buckets outdoors, I didnt realize I dont really know that much about the large plants and how to sustain them properly to be healty enough to combat disease and pests.
Thank You Milky.

 

[milkyjoe]

milky,

are those recommendations for foliar or drench? if drench, still sticking with EC of 0.7?

for the late Nitrogen use, what if you are using amino acids instead of nitrate or ammonium? would you still be worried about the chemmy flavor?

lastly, you mentioned using 'sweet' products as a source of Mg at this point. do you worry about the introduction of simple sugars encouraging budrot?

Good call on the sweet. Yea don't feed the microbes.

My soil is at 0.6 right now. All I do is feed the microbes. Plant food I prefer to foliar.

If you gotta feed N aminos or peptides are the way to go. Still takes energy for the plant to convert to ptotein. I would try Mg first to make chlorophyll and only if that does not work amino