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Jjay's remodel project (I do shit the hard way)

The lamps are in. Crazy looking. They are as delicate as they look. I don't even want to touch them.



look at the anode wire. Looks like a minnow penis
 
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Concrete work is complete. I'll wait for 36 hrs before I attempt the epoxy coat.

While waiting I'll be working on some plumbing.

Interesting notion I just had. ...If my water heater is a heat pump, wouldn't that mean it'll pump out cold air from the condenser? I'll have to figure a way to capture those cooling BTU's!
 

Vegan

Active member
Thanks. I've got all the time in the world for this one. So I can take my time and change things up if I want.

I'll be firing the bulbs (Ushio DE) via 3 1k Air Cooled Lumateks. I did not have the necessary height requirements for a Gavita as per manufacturer specs, otherwise I would be using them. I will be testing on height with a Gavita once I'm done with this. There's a way, I just have to find it. From there, I'll scale up accordingly.

As tight as this is (13 ft by 3.5 ft) there'll be massive wattage per sq foot, and massive BTU's generated. I've only used 10 ft of it in the past, if that.

The AC/DE Hoods are on backorder, evidently people are buying them up. They are now 2 days late getting to me.


IMO I would suggest not going with the AC/DE hood ,,YES they throw a shitload of light,, but they runnnn really hot under those bulbs,,i would try them again if I had over 10ft of ceiling to play with

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had to gift mine try to a brother ickmagerr

seems the shop told me it was going to get warm under there
 
IMO I would suggest not going with the AC/DE hood ,,YES they throw a shitload of light,, but they runnnn really hot under those bulbs,,i would try them again if I had over 10ft of ceiling to play with

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had to gift mine try to a brother ickmagerr

seems the shop told me it was going to get warm under there

Interesting. I'm assuming running the fans through the enclosed hoods didn't help? I'm at '7"4 inches. So I too don't have a lot to play with myself. Especially with my 3 Sativa's that cycle through there (I only run one strain at a time for uniformity).

The specifications mention running an 8 inch Hurricane at 10% in order to maintain bulb temperature of 700 c (if I remember correctly). I don't have a laser temp gun that can read those temps to dial in the fan.
 
I do have the option of selling my hoods through the shop and splitting the profit after 60% of cost after 90 days. Not a total loss. But someone has to take it.

The Gavitas was my original go to. But I don't have the 30 inches from canopy required.
 
Equipment is in. Interesting to see the SEER at 22.7. For some reason I kept thinking the SEER was at 17. Either way, I'll take that.

Pretty sure I was boozing when I ordered all this shit.

 
Here's where I'm at. And a sneak peak of my container configuration. I waste no space. I have no interest in room for me to go in there and frolic with the ladies. These are 5 gallon containers. That big swirly black line you see in the pic is #6 AWG (im not fucking around here)

The epoxy is down. The vinyl trim is down. The doors are in.

Be painting doors now. Then locks. Then Equipment installs. Every single item will be brand new. Fresh out the box.

This is my dream build, and I've got a tone of capital invested. It's about to go down in a few days.
 
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Here's an interesting gift. I had to cut down the door into the flower room. I then used the window and door expansion foam inside the door cut . It sealed the room by expanding to conform to the epoxy floor. Foam wouldn't stick to the epoxy. No need for any floor threshhold.

Fucking Awesome.
 

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I haven't seen where you mention WHICH controller it was that you decided on.

Be aware that most of them lack adequate overcurrent protection for downstream components - they call for a 30-50 amp feed, and then fail to protect the 15-20a components that they run. The manufacturers rely on a highly specific exception in the code that allows this for warehouse lighting, but the exception's numerous conditions can never be met outside of a warehouse.

Caveat emptor.
 
I haven't seen where you mention WHICH controller it was that you decided on.

Be aware that most of them lack adequate overcurrent protection for downstream components - they call for a 30-50 amp feed, and then fail to protect the 15-20a components that they run. The manufacturers rely on a highly specific exception in the code that allows this for warehouse lighting, but the exception's numerous conditions can never be met outside of a warehouse.

Caveat emptor.

All 20 amp feeds (2) in Flower room (1) in Veg are on separate runs completely independent of a controller. I consider them auxiliary feeds for all intents and purposes.
 
Your right Rives. I don't think the controller has overload protection.

its a Helios 1 via Titan Controls.

The only items that will be running on this are the Lumateks, which according to the paperwork that comes with them are protected.
"New Lumateks are protected from voltage surges by an external breaker system"
 

McKush

Éirinn go Brách
ICMag Donor
Veteran
curious are you related to a fella named McKush?? :biggrin:

hey... seems like every sizable build lends up under funded, over budget and behind schedule... like mine :laughing:
your in good company here JJay

good call on the mitsu mini.
btw, you can use the digi timers with elec. ballasts IF you use an elec. power relay


Hey hey hey, WTF? why you gotta be like that for Gnomie?

LOL, when I read "soundproof" I had the same thought. I was in total obsessive mode last year building mine out. I never got to tiling the walls but I just may some day...

Really need to start the build thread up again, lots to do in the room. But at least I got it to be very functional before I stopped. And hey, I also got to 10' after all so I had no problems growing out a 67" AF either, have room for taller plants should I ever want them.

I do appreciate your attention to detail JJ but you build a little tooooo quickly for my tastes... ;)
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
Hey hey hey, WTF? why you gotta be like that for Gnomie?

LOL, when I read "soundproof" I had the same thought. I was in total obsessive mode last year building mine out. I never got to tiling the walls but I just may some day...

Really need to start the build thread up again, lots to do in the room. But at least I got it to be very functional before I stopped. And hey, I also got to 10' after all so I had no problems growing out a 67" AF either, have room for taller plants should I ever want them.

I do appreciate your attention to detail JJ but you build a little tooooo quickly for my tastes... ;)

well dammmm look who's here!
lol... i knew you'd show up if i yanked yer chain Mckush :D
hadn't seen you in ages and when JJ said the
"doing it the hardway" a bell rang upstairs

good to see you get out once a year whether you needs it or not
 

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Your right Rives. I don't think the controller has overload protection.

its a Helios 1 via Titan Controls.

The only items that will be running on this are the Lumateks, which according to the paperwork that comes with them are protected.
"New Lumateks are protected from voltage surges by an external breaker system"

No, I'm pretty sure that the Helios doesn't have any downstream protection. The ballasts may be protected, but the wiring between the two, the receptacles, and the cordsets are not. The installation won't meet code and can invalidate your fire insurance if you happen to need it.
 
No, I'm pretty sure that the Helios doesn't have any downstream protection. The ballasts may be protected, but the wiring between the two, the receptacles, and the cordsets are not. The installation won't meet code and can invalidate your fire insurance if you happen to need it.

You are correct. what do you suggest I do here? I don't know if Square D makes a GFCI 50amp 120v breaker (if that would even help)I had to special order the breaker as it was.
 

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
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ICMag Donor
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You are correct. what do you suggest I do here? I don't know if Square D makes a GFCI 50amp 120v breaker (if that would even help)I had to special order the breaker as it was.

A GFCI checks to make sure that the current sourced by the breaker actually returns to it - if you have a ground fault, the current is routed to ground and doesn't return to the breaker, and the imbalance in the current going out and returning causes the breaker to trip. This doesn't protect you against sustained overloads that are more than the 20a wiring can handle, but less than the 50a breaker would protect for.

If you have room in the enclosure, you could add inline fuse holders to each circuit. Panel mount fuses could be installed in the cover and give access to the fuses without opening the enclosure. For the controller that I built up, I used track-mount miniature circuit breakers like the following - http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...Disconnects/UL_489_Miniature_Circuit_Breakers

Various types of fuse holders - http://www.automationdirect.com/adc...K5_Fuse_Holders,_Fuse_Blocks,_-a-_Accessories

Panel mount fuse holders (if you use these, make sure that you use the 250v fuses, not the 32v) - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cooper-Bussmann/BK-HKP-CC-R/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtLo%252bUrTGGA8eXe5ZA5cH5y

This shows how the breakers (top left) can be mounted and wired -
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