Full Spectrum LED layout. check mine out!

[Dr.Tone]

im working on a led project and i want to know what you think about my layout and spectrum. im running 9 panels that are 120w each all with 2 channels and dimming ability. also where can you buy the x2 lens in singles so i can snap those on my diodes vs standard 90 degree optics?

 

[Dr.Tone]

do ya guys think i should replace 2 x 630nm with 2x IR far red 730nm?

 

[PetFlora]

You have a lot of redundancy in that a high quality warm white will provide virtually the entire spectrum

a couple guys on another site are doing amazing things with 3000K COBs from seed/clone - harvest

I recently completed a grow using a BML SPYDR 600 into which I mixed 450 + 5000K + 3000K + 625s.

I chose those spectrums as a beta test for BML to see whether it would be equally good for veg and flower, and erred on the side of caution

The 5000 provides all the blue mj needs, and would easily cover the 450, so it is redundant, and unnecessary

See my multispectrum thread for 411 and lots of pics

In terms of PPFD, up to 630 provides 95%, 660 only about 5%

hth

 

[Dr.Tone]

so you saying just so with all 5000k whites, ditch the blue and emphisize more on the 630 rather then the 660s

 

[PetFlora]

so you saying just so with all 5000k whites, ditch the blue and emphasize more on the 630 rather then the 660s

Total percentage ~ 15% @ 5000K (6500K might be a bit better), the balance 3000K or 2700K. Just depends on the spectral graph

Simple and highly effective to grow quality meds

 

[cocogrower]

I have to agree with pet on that there is to much blue. One channel with 5000k is probably more than enough blue. Is your plan to use channel one in veg and one + two in flower?

And 12000 is that for UV and resin production? if thats the case it would probably be more useful in flower than in veg. Some claim that UV only is harmful to MJ, some that it os harmful and therefore stresses the plant to protect itself with resin, the way we do with pigment. Other say that it can fill a purpose in veg by decreeing node distance, which can help with yield, especially if you have limited amounts of light/ and or height..

 

[Dr.Tone]

after doing a ton of research. I've came up with this. I have a couple options here. I've made a bloom spectrum and a veg spectrum layout, lmk what ya think. ive also came up with this idea of using the veg lights as my main lighting and accompany them with 600w of 660nm, 630nm, 730nm red multichip cob style pendents as a boost. the veg lights will be dimmable so i can take out alot of the blue when flowering time comes and keep the white channels up full power along with the red boost channel. i just wanted to have a very strong blue side of things durring ved and the first 2 weeks of flower as i scrog my plants and want to eliminate the stretch, having 3 independent channels red/white/blue will let me experiment with nodal spacing and id like to be able to run alot of blue twards the end to enhance the frost on the ladys. the units 1680w i know it seems like alot but i want to have the power when some channels are dimmed down. lmk guys.

VEG SPECTRUM


BLOOM

 

[Dr.Tone]

this is my current grow and what im trying to replace those 2x1000s

 

[Dr.Tone]

so basically, i could use the veg spectrum panel along with the 50w red cobs or i could use the veg/bloom combo with 50w cobs. or just the veg/bloom panels alone? but if i did go with the veg panel and 50w bob i think id switch out 10 of the 6.5k for more 3.5k or even 2700k i just want to have at least 4 x 6.5ks because there nice in the 460-550nm region that covers alot on carotenoids.

 

[PetFlora]

MJ responds best (healthiest) to a full spectrum throughout life, but the amount of red shifts during flower

The McCree graph holds the key

BUT

"I" would have ~ 30% of the total red > 600nm on a separate o/o switch to flip once buds have set

This acts like a trigger to the plant PLUS lowers the % of blue during flower. You want a range of blue from ~ 420-500

It's not so much about w/sft since lumens/w can vary greatly

The parameter that we need to focus on is umoles/m^/sec and DLI

View attachment 283212

 

[cocogrower]

Hi, its gonna be a massive setup! Are you gonna do the soldering by yourself? Or is it china-panels? Do you have more info on the diodes? Where are you getting the multi chips? I can't seem to find XP-G in 630 nm at all..

And have you at all considered using cobs?

 

[Dr.Tone]

the 630 are xp-e. i know all about umol as ive had a apogee meter for about 5 years now lol. My 1000w hotilux throws numbers like 1200 in the center and 400-500 around my parameters of my scrog screen which is like 4x4 @ 18" which i think is pretty intensity just not very well distributed creating a massive hot spot in the center. these 120 watt units are made by evergrow. these units ive used on a couple reef tanks i have around the house. i have one on a 2x2 reeftank 29g that use to have a 250w double end hqi on a digital ballast (PAR MONSTER)with a coral vue reflector that had 42 reflection points. since switching to the d2120 ive had explosive growth, amazing color, litterally in 4 months everyrock was covered with coral. and to top it off i was running the whites at 40% and the blues @ 95% and only pulling 70 watts lol i was really amazed that only 90 watts could give better results then my 250w setup. i hit 250 umol on my sandbed 24" away, 550 umol mid tank 850 on the tips of my sps and 1100 umol at waters surface @12" away from unit. my 250 hqi hit about the same numbers also. this units now going on 1.5 years old and still kicking ass, i liked em so much i ordered 7 more for my big tank china direct with a custom layout and extremely happy with all the testing and results.

so now ive asked them if they could do a grow light for me and they said sure. but have run into a problem, they say the unit will not be 120w and only about 80w because the drivers they have are 90v they say the white channel is fine but the red is the problem because the FV on the reds are 2.2v and the whites are 3.4. so the 28pcs led string only comes to about 60v. they said they can tweak the drivers to turn voltage down but will lose out on current at the same time. ia asked sunny if they can just source a non dimmable driver thats 60v since she cannot seem to find a dimmable. she also says she can just send me the pcb boards with all the leds and lenes attached and i can build my diy on my own or that she could send a incomplete unit without a driver for red channel and i could install my own. hmmmmm

 

[PetFlora]

I will be receiving a couple panels from a new player, designed by an mj grower- SolarSpec, which are full spectrum, but with a switch to kick in more red during budding

He designed them as 4 panel systems, which provides more balanced umoles across the entire canopy, and perimeter

So whether your tent is 2 x 2, 2 x 4, 3 x 3... you can put the appropriate light system in it.

If funds are low, you can start with 1 panel and add the others as $$$ is available. Each panel piggybacks electrically and there is a nice 4th panel discount, regardless of how long it takes you to buy it.

If curious, sub my thread to follow the unveiling

 

[cocogrower]

If you are at all handy and have some spare time I really recommend you to DIY with cobs! they are ridiculously efficient and much easier to work with than single 3 watters. Take a look at the end of my thread for inspiration! https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=287557 If you just choose Bigger cobs like CXA 3070 or CXA 3590 you will get up to the wattages you desire with, not so much work hours invested. If you choose the drivers i went with you will have a driver efficiency of 92-96%. The lamps evergrow sells you has a driver efficiency of 76%. if your light is 1600 watts - thats like 200 watts lost only in drivers!! Ok with that said, I'm right now growing under to cildly lights (same factory as evergreen?) and probably looking at 0,6 - 0.8 gr/watt when i'm done. (from several different seeds no elite clone here..)