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what is this, mag def?

kindsmoke

New member
Yes Nes, Sounded like a great mix to me too.
Ive thought about lowering the pH of the water, and Im going to start. I
thought soil should of buffered the pH some though, and I really wouldn't have to worry about it. seems like that might be it though, not sure. Still not sure of what to do, think i might let them dry good then water with ph'ed water. Does that sound right, would hate to make the worse. Kindsmoke
 

Nes

Member
I should ammend that, that's the mix I use indoors.
ph'd water shouldn't do harm. if it's something locked out due to high ph then that'd help.
If its a defficiency and not a ph issue, then its not so much going to hurt it, but it wont help much. I use the same mix indoors, though less perlite, and my well water is 8.4 out the tap. Usually with the nutes I use it comes out to 6.4-6.8 after mixing, without ph down. sometimes it needs a bit of ph down, but biobizz seems to drop my ph to right were I want it.
I don't think adding a small dose of bloom nutes would hurt, something with some p and k...
what did you transplant up from? didyou feed it before transplant?
 
kindsmoke I have grown in dirt and had problems and this is what I would start with, grab a gallon jug or 2 of distilled water from the super market or drug store put your plant up so you can pour all the water into the pot and catch the water coming out the drain holes. RO water and distilled water quickly take on the PH of the dirt so you can now take your drain off water to a local hydro shop and have them check the PH with one of their PH pens most hydro shops will do this if you ask. Also have them check the run off water with a PPM pen to see how many PPM's are in the water if it's high like ball park over 800 ppm's you can flush with water to lower it to where you want it. I like in dirt a PH of 6.4 if your PH is to high you can flush low PH'ed tap water say 5.4 or so through the pot until your drain water or run off water starts to come out at say 7 then add lemon juice or PH down to your water to lower PH of water when you feed to say PH 6. No sense theorizing over deficiencies until you know what is happening in the soil if your PH is way out nothing will work out properly.
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
He says in the comments he's not feeding yet. Dark green leaves are also a precursor sign to P defficiencies. Unless thats a crazy super soil, 3 weeks without feeding seems to point to deficiency, rather than toxicity. IMO N tox would have done more by now.:2cents:

He does not have to feed his plants for his plants to be burned. The soil mixture is too strong for those plants and I have seen enough plants that look like that to know they are being burned. Phosphorus does not look like that, the coloring of the leaves tissue is a clue to what is going on, that tissue turned necrotic rather than the plant removing stored nutrients in the leaves.those leaves are dark and that coloration of green signifies too much nitrogen. Why do you think dark leaves signify a P issue?

He said problem started one week into new soil, so like I said before his plants are being burned. Ocean forrest/happy frog mixture is too much for that strain.,
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
Thanks everyone! this is there second week in these new pots and soil. My problem is they started this after only 1 week in fresh soil. How are they deficient already? I'm not sure if I should feed em or flush em lol..... but this is all organic soil with nothing added but perlite. Kindsmoke

They are not deficient there is an excess and the only way your going to fix the problem is to flush it to get excess out. The mixture was too strong for it..... what are you using to test your pH>? to absorb proper nutrients of NPK you must have a balance of micronutrients. When the balance becomes unstable you will get a lockout and you may think that it is deficient and add more and make the problem worse. When there is too much nutrients in the soil it will throw your pH off depending on what is in it. Honestly the only way to fix this is to flush your plants out.
Also even if you had not fed for 3 weeks, if the plant is growing slowly because the soil is too strong it will not use up nutrients like a normal growing plant that can tolerate the soil, plants that are in a mixture that is to strong there roots burn and slows down growth, when it gets to a certain stage you see interveinal cholorsis and tan colored leaves, you can tell the difference when the plant did the damage or it's environment caused the problem. The coloration of the tissue that is damaged will tell you. That coloration it's showing now is done from the plant being into too much of a rich mixture.
 

dabking

Member
I'd follow what stitch has to say. After a second look with a phosphorus deficiency you should be lighter green color. But when you are out of balance you can have multiple symptoms show up
 

kindsmoke

New member
OK thanks nes, cannabacca, mynamestich, dabking, and everyone else that's helped me!
I think what I'm going to do from here is a mild, but thorough ph'd flush, then see what happens from there. I would hate to wash all my nutrients out. I will keep this thread updated till problems are fixed and growth is back to normal. Kindsmoke
 

Nes

Member
Why do you think dark leaves signify a P issue?

Stitch, you may be right. I haven't grown this strain before. I grow in ocean forest/happy frog 50/50 though, and I've never had an issue with a plant a few weeks old getting burnt.. OF is often a bit hot for my clones which is why i started mixing them 50/50 to begin with. Maybe the mix isn't homogenous? I'm looking at that water with the 9 ph too.

as for dark foliage indicating the begining of a P issue, that notion comes from the meathod of keying out defficiencies I learned in ag. They talk about it around 2minutes into this video where they're talking about telling the difference between N and P deficiencies.

http://www.greenhousegrower.com/vid...ying-nutrient-deficiencies-made-easy-part-ii/
 

kindsmoke

New member
I grow in ocean forest/happy frog 50/50 though, and I've never had an issue with a plant a few weeks old getting burnt.. OF is often a bit hot for my clones which is why i started mixing them 50/50 to begin with.[/url]

This is also why I mixed them. I was afraid of straight OF burning, even though they were already a month old when transplanted. Its very surprising to me that this mix is this hot. Hope it turns around quick so I can get them in flower by the 1st. Thanks Kindsmoke
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
Stitch, you may be right. I haven't grown this strain before. I grow in ocean forest/happy frog 50/50 though, and I've never had an issue with a plant a few weeks old getting burnt.. OF is often a bit hot for my clones which is why i started mixing them 50/50 to begin with. Maybe the mix isn't homogenous? I'm looking at that water with the 9 ph too.

as for dark foliage indicating the begining of a P issue, that notion comes from the meathod of keying out defficiencies I learned in ag. They talk about it around 2minutes into this video where they're talking about telling the difference between N and P deficiencies.

http://www.greenhousegrower.com/vid...ying-nutrient-deficiencies-made-easy-part-ii/

trust me, take a look at my sick plants guide on P issues, from my expierence I go by what the plant is doing, there are many times it can be tricky, but phosporus is a lighter color brown. The coloration of the leaf tissue can tell you what is going on. Lighter tan color signifies the plant absorbing nutrients from the leaf. Darker brown means necrosis and identifying where on the leaf it's occuring is extremely important and what part of the plant, like lower mid or higher.

when there is too much nitrogen in a plant it darkens the green color and sometimes you can also have the "claw effect" with it and the tips can curl inwards under the leaves, but when the problem first starts out the darker green becomes apparent first.

No 2 strains are alike, one strain can take more of a beating, with overwatering,overfeeding and pH range and then you got one that is a bitch to take care of, because one wrong error will cause the plant to go nuts. So each strain has it's tolerance.
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
This is also why I mixed them. I was afraid of straight OF burning, even though they were already a month old when transplanted. Its very surprising to me that this mix is this hot. Hope it turns around quick so I can get them in flower by the 1st. Thanks Kindsmoke

Make sure your plant goes into full recovery before putting her into flowering, if you put her into flowering while shes still recovering you risk stressing the plant and herming. Right now you have a chance to cause it to hermie from the soil being to rich, any stress can cause a problem, but most comes from the swtch to flowering when the plant has an illment
 

kindsmoke

New member
Thanks again Stich, for sure, defiantly won't flip till they're ready. Just hope its not a big set back. I flushed today so we' ll see what happens in a couple days. Thanks Again, Kindsmoke
 

papaduc

Active member
Veteran
Listen to everything stitch says on this because he's right about all of it. That's typical of what a plant looks like when it's overfed or in a hot compost, and putting an overfed plant into flower is a good way to increase the chance of hermies.

One thing about deficiencies that every new grower should know is that these days, with the way composts and canna-specific foods are balanced, you'll probably never see something like an isolated P or K deficiency in your life, unless you've caused a lockout.
 
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