Are we talking bleach top to bottom, or should i just spray entire room down with spinosad when it is empty next?
darth
darth
How hardcore do i need to sterilize room after thrips?
- Thread starter DarthFader1
- Start date
Ehh, I don't think bleach is necessary and spraying the room with spinosad seems a bit much. At most maybe wipe things down with some soap and water just to clean up a bit. Thrips are relatively harmless themselves, IMO. It's their potential as a vector that is the main concern.
Did you foliar spray with spinosad already?
Did you foliar spray with spinosad already?
Yep sure did, i foliar sprayed everything yesterday with spino
I may have said the same about thrips being relatively harmless myself, until i saw what they can do to a room in a month
Well, yeah... if you give them a month they can start to do some damage. Why did it take a month, were you in flower and didn't want to spray?
If you deal with them at the first sign of some leaf damage they are easy to handle. Foliar spray spinosad 2x a week for 2 weeks.
If you deal with them at the first sign of some leaf damage they are easy to handle. Foliar spray spinosad 2x a week for 2 weeks.
Yeah i was in early flower when i ID'd them, i did try and control them but i was just using the wrong products
I posted my experience with thrips in the thrip sticky thread, it was the least i could do considering the info i found there regarding using spinosad looks like it saved me bigtime. Neem, pyrethrum, and im suspecting DE as well barely touch thrips. Thanks for the replies everyone, and yes granger that is exactly what i intend to do. 2 x foliar and a soil drench. This is the first crop ive EVER sprayed with anything questionable and especially in flower; i feel bad but what can ya do.
maybe it is my level of english, but what do you mean with "potential as a vector"?
thanks a lot in advance
...
about thrips, when I had have them I run the ozono generator for 1 hour, empty indoor of course, nothing will survive!!
I used to get thrips whenever I brought in soil for a transplant. Every friggin' time!
I haven't had thrips for almost a year now. This is what I do:
I fight the battle in the soil. NAPA floor dry P/N 8822 is added to all my soil mixes. I don't water until I really need to to allow the diatomaceous earth [NAPA] to dry out so it will be more deadly to bugs. In my 5-gal buckets, I water every 3-4 days. Kinda in sync with the 3-4 day reproduction cycle.
All through the veg cycle, I use Spinosad in all water. By the time flower happens, no worries. No spinosad used in flower.
For the room, I make a cilantro tea, dilute, and spray the hell out of everything.
I also make a cilantro tea and put it in the reservoir of my swamp cooler to filter the swamp cooler intake air.
So far, these methods have worked for me. I don't pretend to be a master grower, but I've read everything written on ICMAG. That's where I got all this stuff. By the time you see leaf damage, you're already screwed. Fight the battle in the soil.
This is my experience. Have a nice day. bg
I haven't had thrips for almost a year now. This is what I do:
I fight the battle in the soil. NAPA floor dry P/N 8822 is added to all my soil mixes. I don't water until I really need to to allow the diatomaceous earth [NAPA] to dry out so it will be more deadly to bugs. In my 5-gal buckets, I water every 3-4 days. Kinda in sync with the 3-4 day reproduction cycle.
All through the veg cycle, I use Spinosad in all water. By the time flower happens, no worries. No spinosad used in flower.
For the room, I make a cilantro tea, dilute, and spray the hell out of everything.
I also make a cilantro tea and put it in the reservoir of my swamp cooler to filter the swamp cooler intake air.
So far, these methods have worked for me. I don't pretend to be a master grower, but I've read everything written on ICMAG. That's where I got all this stuff. By the time you see leaf damage, you're already screwed. Fight the battle in the soil.
This is my experience. Have a nice day. bg
Photosynthesis
Member
An IPM Program needs to be put in place so that you don't get thrips in the first place.
I always laugh when I read "sterilizing", and "plant" in the same paragraph.
It's not suppose to be a sterile process. They are plants.
Granger had very sound advice as 1 spray of the leaf surface will most likely not totally get rid of them.
I always laugh when I read "sterilizing", and "plant" in the same paragraph.
It's not suppose to be a sterile process. They are plants.
Granger had very sound advice as 1 spray of the leaf surface will most likely not totally get rid of them.
what is your reason for this? I thought spinosad was just a bacteria? or do you mean just for foliar?
Rotate spinosad and pyrethrum in veg. Like spin spin pyrethrum spin. IME this knocks them effectively out. If you break the life cycle that way in veg they never get a foothold again. I have never seen any damage from spin sprayed in veg, I don't love pyrethrums but luckily it's mostly spinosad. I think the little fuckers have to breed like crazy to actually do the damage. I used to use predatory nematodes watered into the soil to control them but far and away the most effective has been a combination of spinosad and pyrethrums.
Fwiw some locations just have fuck tons of thrips in nature, it's almost impossible to entirely eliminate them if you live in these areas (again, just IME).
I really have my doubts about a root drench of spinosad.
Fwiw some locations just have fuck tons of thrips in nature, it's almost impossible to entirely eliminate them if you live in these areas (again, just IME).
I really have my doubts about a root drench of spinosad.
Thrips can potentially carry and transmit certain plant pathogens. The bugs themselves do very little damage to plants, some unsightly leaf spotting is about the extent of it most of the time. Their potential as a vector is my primary concern.
Fortunately, thrips are very noticeable. The yellow-ish tint of their bodies makes them easy to spot against a nice, healthy green leaf. If you check your plants periodically you'll notice them as soon as they show up. When dealt with immediately they are innocuous.
As an aside, an IPM for thrips doesn't mean you'll never get them. IPM doesn't = eradication, that's a common misconception. It's primarily about control, which is why IPM is also known as IPC - C for control. The stated aim of an IPM is to suppress plant pressure below the economic injury level. Eradication is, in most instances, a pipe dream.
The control is in place so when they do inevitably show up the bugs don't have time to establish a foothold and cause significant damage.
If thrips are a routine problem in the garden consider utilizing some biological controls as the first layer of defense. This will minimize the amount of spraying necessary and many of the biological predators of thrips also feast on other pests which is a nice bonus.
yourcorpse- I use Spinosad mixed in all water during veg or as a foliar if I get an infestation. By flower, there's no need to continue. I seem to get my thrips from soil I bring inside during the veg transplant from 2 qt to 5 gal containers.
Spinosad is a bacteria that is harmless to any creature that has no exoskeleton. I think it could be safely used in flower, however, in my specific case, there's no need.
I also let my kiddy pools of mixed soil really dry out before transplant to allow the NAPA floor dry to be as effective as possible. I also re-inoculate the roots with beneficial bacteria at transplant.
So far, these methods have been effective for me in my little indoor garden. bg
Spinosad is a bacteria that is harmless to any creature that has no exoskeleton. I think it could be safely used in flower, however, in my specific case, there's no need.
I also let my kiddy pools of mixed soil really dry out before transplant to allow the NAPA floor dry to be as effective as possible. I also re-inoculate the roots with beneficial bacteria at transplant.
So far, these methods have been effective for me in my little indoor garden. bg
Photosynthesis
Member
With proper IPM a lot of the problems people report on here would not exist.
Regardless of the terminology one chooses to use.
N
NoSocSlic
I also ran into thrips this time during early flower. It was my first pest problem also. Spinosad was the first thing I tried, at week 2. It took two sprays, another at week 4 to get rid of them. They haven't bothered me since and I am at week 8 now. It proved to be pretty effective stuff. I hated spraying my newly forming buds!
An IPM program is something i do get lazy on from time to time, and every once in a while i get a short sharp reminder of how important it is. However, it's important to note that i DID in fact have a pest control program running at the time of infestation mainly consisting of neem foliar sprays during veg but alas even with consistent effort on the growers part it will count for nil if you are using ineffective active ingredients on your enemies. So, in addition to a solid IPM program im really ramping up my knowledge of pest control products.. eg: what works on what pests.
Fwiw i sprayed heavily with spino in mid flower and the formed buds/white hairs showed zero stress or damage from its use. That's not to say it is harmless, but i was very impressed with its efficacy so far.
I agree with attacking these in the soil too (very important) but what is the best product to use for a soil drench? Would it be more spinosad? I have not seen a solid answer yet on this as everyone seems to focus only on the foliar side of things which is only half the problem. Even on the thrip sticky i have seen no clear answers regarding soil drench. What about BTI, does this work on thrip larvae?
Fwiw i sprayed heavily with spino in mid flower and the formed buds/white hairs showed zero stress or damage from its use. That's not to say it is harmless, but i was very impressed with its efficacy so far.
I agree with attacking these in the soil too (very important) but what is the best product to use for a soil drench? Would it be more spinosad? I have not seen a solid answer yet on this as everyone seems to focus only on the foliar side of things which is only half the problem. Even on the thrip sticky i have seen no clear answers regarding soil drench. What about BTI, does this work on thrip larvae?
Last edited:
Hi bad gas,
Ive been top dressing after every watering with a generous amount of DE as well as premixing it into the soil and im not even sure it is working on the thrip larvae. Maybe it is killing some of them but i can see plenty of these critters still cruising around in my soil crawling all over the DE. Ive used DE for years it works well on fungas gnat larvae but NOT thrip larvae IME.
You say you use spinosad in all water in veg? What sort of concentrates are we talking here? I would imagine this is a very effective soil drench amirite? Moar info would be great!
darth
N
NoSocSlic
From what I've read, spinosad isn't systemic so there is no foliar benefit to soil drenching, but it will kill larvae that are feeding in the soil. When I foliar sprayed, I also soaked the soil really well with the sprayer, making sure the top 3 or 4 inches of soil got saturated.
I agree with all your post except the bolded bit. It would probably be more correct to say IME, because myself and many others can tell you a vastly different story. Its day 40 in my room with a blue kush clone that i am more than familiar with and i can tell you im looking at 30% losses on yield. Maybe more
Do not underestimate these things they can destroy entire crops
