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Dry Ice Runs

icdog

Member
Looking for some tips to run with dry ice haven't used it so far and I don't think there is a specific thread on it. Couple of questions I have:

What are the potential problems with dry ice?
How much is needed for 1 run on a 2lb tube with a mk4?
How long does it take to cool a tank?
What type of container do you put the tank and DI in?
What gaskets are needed and at which locations?
Do all hoses need to be ptfe?
How is recovery effected?
If you have sight glasses does the cold crack them?
Do you wear gloves and if so which ones?
Is a DI run much more effective then a ice/salt bath run?

Any other suggestions would be great thanks.
 

icdog

Member
Ok, redbeard said when he went DI he had issues with clamps loosening and concerns about sightglasses cracking.
Anyone?
 

Lono

Member
Looking for some tips to run with dry ice haven't used it so far and I don't think there is a specific thread on it. Couple of questions I have:

What are the potential problems with dry ice? Flow through 1/4" lines
How much is needed for 1 run on a 2lb tube with a mk4? I used 20lbs and a bunch of denatured alcohol for a 50lb tank. Lasted all day.
How long does it take to cool a tank? I chilled mine for 2-3 hours. Probably overkill.
What type of container do you put the tank and DI in? Same as wet ice, "ice cube" cooler from walmart.
What gaskets are needed and at which locations? PTFE at all locations.
Do all hoses need to be ptfe? Mine are.
How is recovery effected? Faster IIRC.
If you have sight glasses does the cold crack them? Ditch the sight glass IMO.
Do you wear gloves and if so which ones? No gloves, didn't need any.
Is a DI run much more effective then a ice/salt bath run? Depends on how you define effective. Seemed to produce a cleaner product in terms of fats/lipids. Awesome color/clarity. Yield seemed to suffer a bit, but I'm hoping once I dial it in I get similar results.

Any other suggestions would be great thanks.

Took a stab at it in blue. I think that a 3/8" vent/liquid line would really help with efficiency. I plan to upgrade to one in the near future(maybe even all 3/8"?). Until then I've gone back to wet ice and have been experimenting with ways to make it colder. Getting good results so not really in a rush. Hope this helps :tiphat:
 

dopecook

Member
Looking for some tips to run with dry ice haven't used it so far and I don't think there is a specific thread on it. Couple of questions I have:

What are the potential problems with dry ice? Cracking rubber, contracting metal (lose nuts)
How much is needed for 1 run on a 2lb tube with a mk4? 20 LB is fine if you're not wrapping your column.
How long does it take to cool a tank? 1 hour to be safe
What type of container do you put the tank and DI in? home depot 10 gal water cooler for the 50 lb cylinder is PERFECT
What gaskets are needed and at which locations? i go ptfe all the way around but viton is fine. i don't think location is relevant since they all get contact. the collection pot is obviously the most important though
Do all hoses need to be ptfe? no, like i said, viton or buna hoses will work, but can be sketch
How is recovery effected? recovery isn't much different but the actual extraction will take much longer. (to clear you column)
If you have sight glasses does the cold crack them? yes. ditch it.
Do you wear gloves and if so which ones? i wear 2 dollar rubber coated work gloves from harbor freight.
Is a DI run much more effective then a ice/salt bath run? hell yah son. color/clarity is on POOOOINT

Any other suggestions would be great thanks.


I would wrap your column in dry ice too if you can. I use a tar and small bungee cords. wrap it, then bolt it in and start pulling a vac immediately so you get all the air out before it condenses moisture inside. i've been using dry ice since day one and have incredible results. ask Lono :)

good luck!!
 

Chonkski

Member
How are the terps when running d/i?

I'm pretty torn by getting the ptfe and running d/i and denatured alchy.. Right now I am just winterizing everything I make. Everything turns out soo beautiful, but I hate losing terps..

Do you guys think I save money when just using saline ice bath and pulling everything out with several bidirectional floods/flushes, then winterizing. Opposed to running dry ice and denatured for just the goodies?

I end up losing 20-40% yield when winterizing the outdoor I'm usually working with too, so it's getting frustrating.
 

Lono

Member
I would wrap your column in dry ice too if you can. I use a tar and small bungee cords. wrap it, then bolt it in and start pulling a vac immediately so you get all the air out before it condenses moisture inside. i've been using dry ice since day one and have incredible results. ask Lono :)

good luck!!


^^he's not lyin' :)

Dopecook, do you think you have less of an issue with the super cold butane and 1/4" lines because you're doing top feed?
 

icdog

Member
Thanks guys.

Is wet ice the salt ice mix?
Do you need 3/8 on the flood hose as well?
If the cold cracks the sight glass will it also crack the glass on the lid viewports or is it just glass that comes into contact with the cold solvent?
 

dopecook

Member
^^he's not lyin' :)

Dopecook, do you think you have less of an issue with the super cold butane and 1/4" lines because you're doing top feed?


Yes. I stopped bottom feeding entirely. It simply doesn't work with cryo. I hook my injection line to the top of my column like a bhogart.

Fortunately I'm used to cryo runs and their little nuances, but to someone switching from room temp/h20 iced solvent, it can be really weird. Everything behaves differently and much much slower.
 

hairetsu

Member
Yes. I stopped bottom feeding entirely. It simply doesn't work with cryo. I hook my injection line to the top of my column like a bhogart.

Fortunately I'm used to cryo runs and their little nuances, but to someone switching from room temp/h20 iced solvent, it can be really weird. Everything behaves differently and much much slower.

I've been bottom feeding while cryo, although I only do 2 washes when doing cryo and each fill takes FOREVER. This is interesting, i might have to try it reconfigured.
 

hairetsu

Member
Yes. I stopped bottom feeding entirely. It simply doesn't work with cryo. I hook my injection line to the top of my column like a bhogart.

Fortunately I'm used to cryo runs and their little nuances, but to someone switching from room temp/h20 iced solvent, it can be really weird. Everything behaves differently and much much slower.

how many washes do you do when top feeding cryo? and whats the avg return on avg trim or avg nug
 

Chonkski

Member
I have bidirectional flooding, I'm sure it would be good to flood and rinse just one time and leave it at that?

Right now I like flooding 3 times and rinsing for an extended period, and then winterizing. Which I am losing around 40% of my initial yield because I'm working with older outdoor that has a lot of wax.

Would running cry turn out the near the same end product as winterizing? Only better perhaps?
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
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Yes. I stopped bottom feeding entirely. It simply doesn't work with cryo. I hook my injection line to the top of my column like a bhogart.

Fortunately I'm used to cryo runs and their little nuances, but to someone switching from room temp/h20 iced solvent, it can be really weird. Everything behaves differently and much much slower.

We increased the line size to 3/8" for subzero operation.
 

St. Phatty

Active member
I made a special styrofoam cooler to help me with Dry Ice.

8 inches of styrofoam and 50 pounds of copper pennies on the lid, to help keep the seal.

Takes about 3 days for a 10 pound block of Dry Ice to 'melt'.

Not perfect ... probably results in an uneven amount of CO2, also continues releasing it at night (wasteful ?) ... but it works.
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
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Getting an alcohol dry ice bath temperature to -70C is easy, so soaking a tank of butane long enough to drop its temperature to -50C isn't hard, but once you start running, the tank temperature will rise from the returning hotter butane.

We added another alcohol dry ice bath heat exchanger after the filter drier and before the storage tank on the return line.

We also have a thermocouple in both the collection tank and the storage tank bath, with digital readout, which makes keeping track easier. The drier is before the tank, to keep ice slush from plugging the 3/8" stainless heat exchanger tubing.

A Mk VB will flood from either direction with the flip of a valve, but if you are using wet butane at subzero temperatures, it won't flood properly either direction, or in extreme cases, at all.
 

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dopecook

Member
how many washes do you do when top feeding cryo? and whats the avg return on avg trim or avg nug

I'm that guy that does one wash.


One long cold wash. I run about 10# n-butane DOWN my column once. then when everything is in the bottom, i recover. I get between 8-17% on trim, and it's bright yellow and see through.

Whoever asked the question about winterizing outdoor, you can use this method for about the same results.

It all depends on what you are starting with and what you want to end with. My niche in Washington medical scene right now is connoisseur shatter. I sacrifice 5-10% of MY yield (not total) for quality. I could probably get more if i washed it once more, but I would be lowering the quality of my product.

If you are doing a shit ton of outdoor, the method you are using may actually be the best. I think GW had big production in mind when he designed the Terp MKIII. I am not going for that, so I've modified my machine to my liking.

If you want to see my oil, check out my instagram @dopecooks . Then you will get what I'm going for. I don't post pics of my outdoor/greenhouse runs, but I use the same tech and they are just darker/more green and a bit more tacky.

Hope this helps
 

Chonkski

Member
I'm that guy that does one wash.


One long cold wash. I run about 10# n-butane DOWN my column once. then when everything is in the bottom, i recover. I get between 8-17% on trim, and it's bright yellow and see through.

Whoever asked the question about winterizing outdoor, you can use this method for about the same results.

It all depends on what you are starting with and what you want to end with. My niche in Washington medical scene right now is connoisseur shatter. I sacrifice 5-10% of MY yield (not total) for quality. I could probably get more if i washed it once more, but I would be lowering the quality of my product.

If you are doing a shit ton of outdoor, the method you are using may actually be the best. I think GW had big production in mind when he designed the Terp MKIII. I am not going for that, so I've modified my machine to my liking.

If you want to see my oil, check out my instagram @dopecooks . Then you will get what I'm going for. I don't post pics of my outdoor/greenhouse runs, but I use the same tech and they are just darker/more green and a bit more tacky.

Hope this helps


Was wondering if that was you bro! I am NectarExtracts
 

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