Dud Identification Collective Knowledge.
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I don't know for sure if they're parasitic or predatory but considering they attack, live inside of and damage/kill plants I'm leaning towards parasitic.
Yeah I've scoped more healthy than dud and have only found them on duds. I am sure at least for myself and Storm that these nematodes correlate with dudding.
I've only been able to find them in veg duds by looking at the most diseased areas of the stems base.
In flower duds I was able to find them up to 10" away from the soil.
I spent a couple hours today scoping some of my most recent clones and couldn't find any.
Yeah I've scoped more healthy than dud and have only found them on duds. I am sure at least for myself and Storm that these nematodes correlate with dudding.
I've only been able to find them in veg duds by looking at the most diseased areas of the stems base.
In flower duds I was able to find them up to 10" away from the soil.
I spent a couple hours today scoping some of my most recent clones and couldn't find any.
So the stem looks diseased where you find them.
That is relief. Was going to kill and boil everything, just to be sure. If it is this obvious, will grow them in isolation, and boil what needs it.
Would love to know if Sunshine saw this problem, on the plants brought to contest.
Has this been found in DWC/flood and drain?
That is relief. Was going to kill and boil everything, just to be sure. If it is this obvious, will grow them in isolation, and boil what needs it.
Would love to know if Sunshine saw this problem, on the plants brought to contest.
Has this been found in DWC/flood and drain?
Damn now I really regret not getting off my ass and ordering some of that stuff bro !!
Lost a few to these fuckers this year and at least now that I know what the issue is I can directly address the problem.
Have you tried MeloCon storm shadow?
Lost a few to these fuckers this year and at least now that I know what the issue is I can directly address the problem.
Have you tried MeloCon storm shadow?
papaduc, they spread to lots of plants while in close proximity to each other in the same tray during veg. there were lots of gnats, that's what i thought was moving the pathogen around at the time.
my memory of 6 months ago isn't very clear, but there's a chance that i might have had drainage issues with those veg trays at the time. my regular bathtub drain got clogged so i had to reroute and had issues for a week or so with the tubes clogging with air bubbles.
i think they spread quickly via runoff. if drainage isn't good they'll swim from one plant to the next.
i think they spread via splashing also while watering.
IDK how easy it would be for them to get into a rez, but irrigation systems are a listed vector by most reports.
my memory of 6 months ago isn't very clear, but there's a chance that i might have had drainage issues with those veg trays at the time. my regular bathtub drain got clogged so i had to reroute and had issues for a week or so with the tubes clogging with air bubbles.
i think they spread quickly via runoff. if drainage isn't good they'll swim from one plant to the next.
i think they spread via splashing also while watering.
IDK how easy it would be for them to get into a rez, but irrigation systems are a listed vector by most reports.
also, i mentioned this months ago when it was spreading in that veg tray... at it's 'peak' when it was spreading very quickly... i was culling 3-5 plants per day out of ~200 be cause they would lose 90% of their color overnight.
they would over the course of 12-24 hours turn very very very light green/yellowish. uniformly from top to bottom, even coloring. no spots or inverveinal chlorosis like normal deficiency.
now i wonder if that was 'white flagging.'
they would over the course of 12-24 hours turn very very very light green/yellowish. uniformly from top to bottom, even coloring. no spots or inverveinal chlorosis like normal deficiency.
now i wonder if that was 'white flagging.'
Found this pdf on the main ingredient.
pretty amazing stuff. biologicals. pretty bomb.
the pdf i found was made or sponsored by bayer oddly enough.
http://www.abim.ch/fileadmin/documents-abim/Presentations_2013/ABIM_2013_5_6_von_Erffa.pdf
Check out UC Davis's management guidelines for Tarsonemid mites on Floriculture and Ornamental Nurseries. www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r280400211.html . Disinfestation can be accomplished by immersing propagation stock in 110.3F water for thirty minutes or treatment at 100% relative humidity and 110.3F for 1 hour.
Go for it, and let me know how that works out for you.
its going to vary from species to species what temps can be tolerated by the plants. the study appears to be stating this works to kill the mites but it doesnt say what species this was done with in their study. but all the literature ive read on the hot water treatments says that you have to determine plant tolerance to time and temps for survival.
The question for me, since we know they are parasitic, is: What other pathogens may be related to this issue, since we know that Ditylenchus dipsaci causes stem break, which opens up the plant to a world of other pathogens, meaning that this type of dudding may be multifaceted, with the Ditylenchus dipsaci causing the initial injury, possibly opening the door to other pathogens which could be contributing to the dudding. I don't doubt at all that Ditylenchus dipsaci could be the singular cause, but other factors could be in play here. The only way to find this out and eliminate other causes, is to send samples in for testing. It would be helpful if peeps having this issue could send samples in. Talk to A L & L on the phone. Maybe they can say how widespread this is, and if there are other pathogens commonly associated with it.
111 degree water for thirty minutes is listed as effective for killing foliar nematodes, which travel through the stem and surface water on plants. www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r280200111.html It remains to be seen (at least by me) if this will work on cannabis yet. I had problems at 112-113 with a "regular" thermometer and need to use the infra-red one next time to be more accurate. With that thermometer I used the first time temps could have easily been a little higher/lower.
I haven't tried MeloCon yet ..Its in the plans...as well as this stuff by Bayer called Noritca
Bacillus firmus 5%
http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/msds/Nortica-35lb_label.pdf
Bacillus firmus 5%
http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/msds/Nortica-35lb_label.pdf
which product being used is a neonicotinoid?
most of those infrared thermometers are not super accurate i have three and they are all different brands and they work pretty well but not on every surface. also it only tells the surface temp. literally the surface of the water is all you get. they are ok but if you wanna be precise nothing beats the old analog method for temperature. but digital probes come in varying degrees (no pun intended)of quality accuracy as do the red laser kind(again no pun). check for surface accuracy of water.they are not so good on certain surfaces.
my favorite precision water temp instrument is those old style skinny long glass thermometers used in brewing. also candy thermometers are nice . these are slow to change but then again so is a pot of water.
Thats anything derived from nicotine, imidacloprid being the most widely used. I think imid is the most widely used insecticide period, last time I checked at least.
im familiar. im asking about which ones he said was being used on this specific pest.
Miticides, like Avid, Forbid, etc., are NOT neonicotinoids, but are very hazardous to your health. Bayer's product for nematodes, Nemacur, which has now been banned, but still available to purchase until October 6, has the following warning on the label:
"HAZARDS TO HUMANS AND DOMESTIC ANIMALS
DANGER:
Fatal if swallowed or absorbed through the skin. Causes irreversible eye damage. May be fatal if inhaled. Do not get in eyes, on skin or on clothing. Do not breathe vapor or spray mist. Do not contaminate feed or food."
You can see why they banned it.
Imidcloprid is a widely used neonicotinoid. It's commonly use for root aphids, and is the subject of much controversy. It has been banned, in Europe for killing bees, although there is some controversy about it.
Neonicotinoid seed treatment uses are banned in Italy, but foliar uses are allowed. This action was taken based on preliminary monitoring studies showing that bee losses were correlated with the application of seeds treated with these compounds; Italy based its decision on the known acute toxicity of these compounds to pollinators.
The arguing about it continues. Read more here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neonicotinoid
The three most common compounds (harmful to bees) identified are two miticides, fluvalinate and coumaphos, followed by the compound chlorpyrifos.
A list of neonicotioids:
http://www.beyondpesticides.org/pollinators/documents/pesticide_list_final.pdf
Plenty of controversy about this subject. Google it.
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