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which model leds can rival a 1000w hid?
- Thread starter munkey
- Start date
Keep in mind a watt isn't a watt with LEDs. There are high-quality lights like Area 51, Onyx, Apache (Advanced LED's new lights?) which use Cree chips and deliver more lumens per watt. Then there are the inexpensive Chinese imports which use Epistar. You'll spend less on the latter, but you'll pay more in electricity. They're disposable, so you'll replace them every 2 years or so. (A light like Area 51 has a lifetime warranty and you can upgrade the light for $200 as LED technology evolves. But, you pay more up front.).
There's also a category in between: rebranded Chinese lights sold at a premium (with swanky websites and "proprietary" spectrum. They're marginally better than direct imports because the US seller might have a better spectrum/ratio, and offer on-shore warranty. But, otherwise it's Epi LEDs. They might add a Bridgelux or something just so they can say they use something other than Epis. (HydroGrowLED, BlackDog, GrowBlu, Vipar.). You can get good results from them. But, you're paying for a more domesticated experience.
There's also a category in between: rebranded Chinese lights sold at a premium (with swanky websites and "proprietary" spectrum. They're marginally better than direct imports because the US seller might have a better spectrum/ratio, and offer on-shore warranty. But, otherwise it's Epi LEDs. They might add a Bridgelux or something just so they can say they use something other than Epis. (HydroGrowLED, BlackDog, GrowBlu, Vipar.). You can get good results from them. But, you're paying for a more domesticated experience.
az you ever wonder why its not what for watt ??? i am pretty sure LED is already revising there 50,000 hr expectancy
We need to forget about lumens its meaning less to a plant we need to know the foot print of a LED for instance 1000 watt in a 4 x 4 area will destroy any led on the market in umol readings you be surprised sure many led companies will show possibly very high readings By clustering the LEDs closely together and using narrow beam optics, it is very easy for a manufacturer to show an extremely high PAR measurement directly under the fixture. However, unless you are only growing one plant in this exact location, you need to know how much PAR is being distributed across the entire grow area. Since most LED lighting systems centralize the LEDs into a small fixture footprint, these systems naturally produce very high PPFD levels directly under the fixture. However, these light levels will drop significantly as you move the PAR sensor just a small distance from the main fixture housing.
Who cares about LED companies mentioning 1 w 3 w 5 w 10 w or the amount of watts drawing wattage of the LED does not tell you anything meaningful about the lighting system’s performance. Since LED and fixture efficiency varies widely, the wattage of the LED is not a meaningful metric. Remember, the LED wattage is a system Input, and growers care about the system Output. Hence, the LED wattage doesn't tell us anything about the system's ability to deliver light to your plants. so we need to find a led that can deliver like a 1000 watt in a 4x4 area and i am not sure anytime soon LED will have a light fixture that will have same umol readings as a 1000 watt at 4 feet away from the light source
We need to forget about lumens its meaning less to a plant we need to know the foot print of a LED for instance 1000 watt in a 4 x 4 area will destroy any led on the market in umol readings you be surprised sure many led companies will show possibly very high readings By clustering the LEDs closely together and using narrow beam optics, it is very easy for a manufacturer to show an extremely high PAR measurement directly under the fixture. However, unless you are only growing one plant in this exact location, you need to know how much PAR is being distributed across the entire grow area. Since most LED lighting systems centralize the LEDs into a small fixture footprint, these systems naturally produce very high PPFD levels directly under the fixture. However, these light levels will drop significantly as you move the PAR sensor just a small distance from the main fixture housing.
Who cares about LED companies mentioning 1 w 3 w 5 w 10 w or the amount of watts drawing wattage of the LED does not tell you anything meaningful about the lighting system’s performance. Since LED and fixture efficiency varies widely, the wattage of the LED is not a meaningful metric. Remember, the LED wattage is a system Input, and growers care about the system Output. Hence, the LED wattage doesn't tell us anything about the system's ability to deliver light to your plants. so we need to find a led that can deliver like a 1000 watt in a 4x4 area and i am not sure anytime soon LED will have a light fixture that will have same umol readings as a 1000 watt at 4 feet away from the light source
In Marketing, if the product is lacking, sell the sizzle, not the steak
As in all things consumed, it is important to become educated BEFORE spending one's hard earned $$$$
Look up 'greengene's garden' on YT. He did a side by side series using an Apache Tech 600 (LED) v 1000w hps.
Dry weight was a near tie, BUT, the independent lab analysis favored the AT.
Now, the AT is a big panel whereas most are half the size, with much lessor umoles at the 2.5 x 2.5 perimeter
One of the things I like about the BML SPYDR, whose 6 individual light bars can be pushed together for veg then pulled out to an actual 3 x 3 foot print, assuring much better umoles at 2.5-4ft
See my thread for pics in action
As in all things consumed, it is important to become educated BEFORE spending one's hard earned $$$$
Look up 'greengene's garden' on YT. He did a side by side series using an Apache Tech 600 (LED) v 1000w hps.
Dry weight was a near tie, BUT, the independent lab analysis favored the AT.
Now, the AT is a big panel whereas most are half the size, with much lessor umoles at the 2.5 x 2.5 perimeter
One of the things I like about the BML SPYDR, whose 6 individual light bars can be pushed together for veg then pulled out to an actual 3 x 3 foot print, assuring much better umoles at 2.5-4ft
See my thread for pics in action
Pet i looked at the BML led again i see input wattage but no out put wattage ??? So your saying that 334 watts of LED is comparable to a 600 HPS ???? or was it a 1000 HID lol also noticed your running it what day of flower are you on and is that in or what they stated 48 x 48 ????
again any company can show graphs i see its mentioned they produce 1/7 percent more par per watt then any other LED on the market , then why not show real time par readings youtube style i noticed in the vid once he angled a bar it really didn't have a big foot print oval on other hand it does look pretty cool whats the out put wattage would it be 40 precent less so 180 out put watts ???
again any company can show graphs i see its mentioned they produce 1/7 percent more par per watt then any other LED on the market , then why not show real time par readings youtube style i noticed in the vid once he angled a bar it really didn't have a big foot print oval on other hand it does look pretty cool whats the out put wattage would it be 40 precent less so 180 out put watts ???
I know the I/O seems weird but then a panels' potential is not based on wattage, it's about umoles/m^/sec
The SPYDR 600 is said to be a 600 hps equivalent. I had a great result using it from ~ 2nd week of pistils through harvest.
My next grow will be starting (from seeds) at the end of this month. One plant in a 3 x 3 , the other in either a 4-5 x 4-5 tent.
I have a new comer panel coming (developed by a mj grower) . It's ~ 260w said to have 600w light intensity
spunion
Member
The more I think about it, I may just end up doing LEDs after all. Mainly looking at the Lumigrow Pro 325 and Spydr 600 right now. I'm going to call a shop tomorrow and see if they can quote me a price on an Illumitex as well.
One thing with the Lumigrow, its made by hydrofarm, a company that only does horticulture. So I feel safe they picked a good spectrum. Its also less expensive, I can get two of the 325s for a little over $1500. Not too much more than a two week paycheck.
Open to other suggestions. The light needs to fill a 4'x4' area, that is the biggest thing. And no way I'm dropping $2400 on an AT600, lol.
One thing with the Lumigrow, its made by hydrofarm, a company that only does horticulture. So I feel safe they picked a good spectrum. Its also less expensive, I can get two of the 325s for a little over $1500. Not too much more than a two week paycheck.
Open to other suggestions. The light needs to fill a 4'x4' area, that is the biggest thing. And no way I'm dropping $2400 on an AT600, lol.
spunion why not build your own? All you need is a heatsink, a few cree cobs, and a driver. You could make a couple multi-cobs bars to get a nice spread. Maybe 2 bars with 3 cobs each? You could build it for less than $700, half what you are about to spend. If I had the space I'd build a spider armed led light.
Just my two cents.
Just my two cents.
I bought lite brite
http://www.illumitex.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/NeoSol_DS_SPEC-8141.pdf
And this is suppose to replace 1000 ????? notice on spec sheet nothing for umol readings lol they keep the important stuff out typical ? just saying crap load of money to grow in a 3x3 area yea think way they say out performs a 1000 watt i highly doubt it
want to see these led companies showing 1800 + umol @ 24" from tops here gavita, against digilux against LED par
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5weG40bdumo
then there is plasma again closest thing to the sun a grower can ever get
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1HLEmQI6WI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5weG40bdumo
then there is plasma again closest thing to the sun a grower can ever get
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1HLEmQI6WI
SPYDR 600 ($999) covers 4 x 4.
They are also coming out with a 1000 (8 bars)
I just erected a 3 x 3 tent and fired it up.
WOW the light is so much brighter than when I had it in my DIY wood frame 'tent'.
Should you buy the SPYDR, please tell them I helped.
Going to be ordering a 4-5 x 4-5 to put the SPYDR in
The 3 x 3 will be for a new panel I will be testing soon
