D
DoubleDDsNuggs
Mixed soil today to cook for 2 weeks: 
2 bales of 3 cuft compressed peat moss (equilivant to 6 cuft expanded each bale)
2 bags of Happy Frog soil
enough perlite to your liking
8 cups of fish bone meal 3-16-0
8 cups of Azomite
4 cups of Peruvian seabird guano 12-10-2
6 cups kelp meal 1-0-2
1/2 cu ft EWC
Mycos per instructions on for application
4 cups Bokashi compost starter
live freaking worms!! (add after you cook the soil) <--I probably should mention this since we're all learning. don't wanna cook your worms!
One cup per 2 cuft
6-5-3 parts of:
6- CaCO3 calcium carbonate lime (not dolomite or garden lime)
5- Soft Rock Phosphate powder
3- gypsum
Seeds to be grown first are Pineapple Chunk which germinated two days ago and were put into Root Riots and then put back in their container with a thin cotton towel over till I see some sprouts. I have some soil leftover from my previous bed that is very similar but it's not a water only soil. I will plant each of these in smart pots with the soil and amend a top mulch of alfalfa, ewc, and in the end some guano while the soil cooks and the plants grow a nice root ball.
Bokashi compost tea brewing http://youtu.be/ZsJMoOxJ81g
If plants need some extra nutrients, I will be using a bokashi compost tea using composted extract that is similar to worm bin tea. This compost tea will be made of only green manure, egg shells, alfalfa, veggie and fruit scraps, bones, and coffee grounds. The tea is not aerated in a compost tea brewer and is just an extract diluted in water and molasses. Composted materials will be applied as a top dressing under the mulch as the grow goes on every month or so as desired by the plants. Bokashi compost is also worm food for the worms in our bed.
I will also be growing yarrow in the same bed as the plants to increase essential oils and nutrients due to yarrow processing atmospheric nitrogen for the plant to use along with P,K, Cu.
Lighting and grow room
I have a 1000w MH for the veg period which is ran on a gas lantern routine but switches to regular 12/12 with 1000w HPS and ???w MH for bloom (I will be picking this up later. my 400w ballast broke). I was going to put this in my tent but the girls already in there are just growing like crazy so I'm putting some bigger plants in there. These girls will have to go in another room that is 6x7 with 10 ft high ceilings. Maybe these will become pineapple trees?!
The idea for this bed is to water only as much as possible to make it easy and user friendly where anyone can get great buds.
Importance will be put on keeping the grow environment stable as this is what I consider most important next to nutrients. I am using fan controls to eliminate hot spikes for even temps and running lights at night to take advantage of the cool night air. When winter comes, I may have to add a heater but who knows, my lights are very warm. My goal is to keep it 70F at night with 80-85F days with 80 being desirable. RH will be at 50-60% during veg and 40-50% during bloom with the RH lowering as the bloom period ends.
I will be using a refractometer and plant sap ph tests to determine plant health with an aim of 12 brix or higher due to the new soil. Brix should increase with each harvest. I will also be testing soil pH and ERGS periodically as pH is not as important and taking both tests can be done at the same time.
If you're not interested in just a water only method and would like to add aerated compost teas, then please see my other grow diary in my signature at the bottom. Using that soil recipe, you can add teas to your liking or do what I did. I switched it up a bit because this was my first grow using organics. I am now 3 weeks into it as well and my recipe I showed above, is one that I made up partially. I used bits and pieces of different threads to make it up. The seabird guano will hold the phosphate more readily than it will the nitrogen. The pelletized seabird phosphate is said to be more available than the bat guano according to the website but either way, 45% of the listed Phosphorus is actually available to the plants because it gets bound to another molecule like calcium (rock phosphate for example) which then makes the phosphate unavailable. Using Soft Rock Phosphate is better than hard rock phosphate.
2 bales of 3 cuft compressed peat moss (equilivant to 6 cuft expanded each bale)
2 bags of Happy Frog soil
enough perlite to your liking
8 cups of fish bone meal 3-16-0
8 cups of Azomite
4 cups of Peruvian seabird guano 12-10-2
6 cups kelp meal 1-0-2
1/2 cu ft EWC
Mycos per instructions on for application
4 cups Bokashi compost starter
live freaking worms!! (add after you cook the soil) <--I probably should mention this since we're all learning. don't wanna cook your worms!
One cup per 2 cuft
6-5-3 parts of:
6- CaCO3 calcium carbonate lime (not dolomite or garden lime)
5- Soft Rock Phosphate powder
3- gypsum
Seeds to be grown first are Pineapple Chunk which germinated two days ago and were put into Root Riots and then put back in their container with a thin cotton towel over till I see some sprouts. I have some soil leftover from my previous bed that is very similar but it's not a water only soil. I will plant each of these in smart pots with the soil and amend a top mulch of alfalfa, ewc, and in the end some guano while the soil cooks and the plants grow a nice root ball.
Bokashi compost tea brewing http://youtu.be/ZsJMoOxJ81gIf plants need some extra nutrients, I will be using a bokashi compost tea using composted extract that is similar to worm bin tea. This compost tea will be made of only green manure, egg shells, alfalfa, veggie and fruit scraps, bones, and coffee grounds. The tea is not aerated in a compost tea brewer and is just an extract diluted in water and molasses. Composted materials will be applied as a top dressing under the mulch as the grow goes on every month or so as desired by the plants. Bokashi compost is also worm food for the worms in our bed.
I will also be growing yarrow in the same bed as the plants to increase essential oils and nutrients due to yarrow processing atmospheric nitrogen for the plant to use along with P,K, Cu.
Lighting and grow room
I have a 1000w MH for the veg period which is ran on a gas lantern routine but switches to regular 12/12 with 1000w HPS and ???w MH for bloom (I will be picking this up later. my 400w ballast broke). I was going to put this in my tent but the girls already in there are just growing like crazy so I'm putting some bigger plants in there. These girls will have to go in another room that is 6x7 with 10 ft high ceilings. Maybe these will become pineapple trees?!
The idea for this bed is to water only as much as possible to make it easy and user friendly where anyone can get great buds.
Importance will be put on keeping the grow environment stable as this is what I consider most important next to nutrients. I am using fan controls to eliminate hot spikes for even temps and running lights at night to take advantage of the cool night air. When winter comes, I may have to add a heater but who knows, my lights are very warm. My goal is to keep it 70F at night with 80-85F days with 80 being desirable. RH will be at 50-60% during veg and 40-50% during bloom with the RH lowering as the bloom period ends.
I will be using a refractometer and plant sap ph tests to determine plant health with an aim of 12 brix or higher due to the new soil. Brix should increase with each harvest. I will also be testing soil pH and ERGS periodically as pH is not as important and taking both tests can be done at the same time.
If you're not interested in just a water only method and would like to add aerated compost teas, then please see my other grow diary in my signature at the bottom. Using that soil recipe, you can add teas to your liking or do what I did. I switched it up a bit because this was my first grow using organics. I am now 3 weeks into it as well and my recipe I showed above, is one that I made up partially. I used bits and pieces of different threads to make it up. The seabird guano will hold the phosphate more readily than it will the nitrogen. The pelletized seabird phosphate is said to be more available than the bat guano according to the website but either way, 45% of the listed Phosphorus is actually available to the plants because it gets bound to another molecule like calcium (rock phosphate for example) which then makes the phosphate unavailable. Using Soft Rock Phosphate is better than hard rock phosphate.
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