Sammy's DIY 630nm RED 100w COB

[sammyz2646]

I am just starting to barely understand the current technology with regard to LED's and their capabilities. I am interested in saving money, energy, and basically keeping up with new ideas to better my garden. So for now I am experimenting around, hoping to discover the perfect array of LED's to eliminate the HID's (eventually). I am open to all sources of tech. China, America, wherever.
This is my 1st DIY project that I stumbled into because my $1200 Chinese light plant had failed me, and with that kind of investment, I was literally forced into learning how to fix it. Blessing in disguise so it seems. Having said that, I fixed it, and now seem to be almost addicted to finding and /or building a crazy bright LED array of some kind , with no need for HPS or MH. To be determined. . . I wanna buy some Chinese LED tunnel or Stadium lights in warm white. They are stupid bright

Now , I may not have everything correct here, but it was just a quick 1 day throw together.
This is basically the kit I gathered from various sources-


This is the 100 watt 630nm chip itself -



Setup on the heatsink-



Its pretty damn bright too-

 

[sammyz2646]

I basically added the little fan afterwards and cut a hole in a frame to mount everything. Nothing fancy.



Got it hung up in the room as supplemental red-

 

[sammyz2646]

My plan is to eventually run 3 Cree CXA 3050's to every 1 630 nm red. Maybe run 2 -2700k Cree's
1 - 3000k Cree
And. . . 1 - 630 nm

All 100 watters. Mounted in a nice sized aluminum frame for a decent footprint
Red goes in the center w/ the 3000k and mount the 2700's on the sides. Everything will have nice space and airflow of course. Hmmmm

 

[PetFlora]

Cree WW are typically quite strong in 630

660 is not that important, but can significantly increase stretch

 

[Dr.Nonagon]

My plan is to eventually run 3 Cree CXA 3050's to every 1 630 nm red. Maybe run 2 -2700k Cree's
1 - 3000k Cree
And. . . 1 - 630 nm

All 100 watters. Mounted in a nice sized aluminum frame for a decent footprint
Red goes in the center w/ the 3000k and mount the 2700's on the sides. Everything will have nice space and airflow of course. Hmmmm

It's a tricky question. I have several designs for 400-600 watt leds based on cree and epistar. I plan on moving away from the extruded heatsinks because for a 100w there are generaic heatpipe coolers that can do a better job at 1/2 the size

The thing I don't like is that the chip is just 100x1w. Hard to find better but it still sure does seem to light up a room well.

As usual your room looks great, and you can move the led really close unless you have been bonking your head on it again



Use a small electrical box for your wires. Normally I go for the octagon box because they have the best covers without holes.
The boxes also have built in cable clamps so your wires wont go anywhere and it will ground your lines.

But more importantly what is that you have growing?

 

[sammyz2646]

It's a tricky question. I have several designs for 400-600 watt leds based on cree and epistar. I plan on moving away from the extruded heatsinks because for a 100w there are generaic heatpipe coolers that can do a better job at 1/2 the size

The thing I don't like is that the chip is just 100x1w. Hard to find better but it still sure does seem to light up a room well.

As usual your room looks great, and you can move the led really close unless you have been bonking your head on it again



Use a small electrical box for your wires. Normally I go for the octagon box because they have the best covers without holes.
The boxes also have built in cable clamps so your wires wont go anywhere and it will ground your lines.

But more importantly what is that you have growing?

Yes, what we are growing should have SOME impact on specific wavelengths, spectrums, etc, but not as much as most think , IMO

How much does our annual sunlight change?? a LITTLE BIT. Mostly the ANGLE it hits at a certain point of the year, along with dramatic temp and humidity changes of course.
So, as of late, my understanding about the cannabis plant is that it will adapt ( to some extent), to almost ANY light that it is provided, with some pros and cons of course, BUT in general, what they want is MORE LIGHT!!!! And as it seems, more whites with some warmth added, do just what we want. Changing spectrums as the plant matures will help some, but me, I am not changing lights and bulbs on a constant basis to get a LITTLE bit of bonus trichs or size. When the correct full spectrum is delivered from the get go, I plan on staying the course and NOT switching anything when I go into flower.
You just need the correct full spectrum from the beginning, in my humble opinion

 

[sammyz2646]

Quote" from "Dr. Nagano" from the "green guy led thread" ---"I went and picked up the exact unit that you have in the pics, 64x3. It looks pretty good in theory; the unit is nice and clean looking, but mine lasted me exactly 10 hours... A replacement cob is in the mail but I don't hold much faith in the replacement. It was $130 or something and that's pretty cheap for all the fun I will have rebuilding the fucker.""



I can't believe that that single COB only lasted 10 HRS???!!!
Well, Shenzen should send you the replacement chips with no issues, hopefully. And for that matter, that fixture couldn't have fallen into the hands of anyone more qualified to tinker and improve it than yourself sir.

Again, I really appreciate your tips and suggestions Doc, in regards to the LED's. I actually have a great idea for cooling several 100 watt LED chips at a time with no additional power source, (for me ), here through convection cooling. A simple airflow design that should work, barring any unintended consequences . I'll share that idea soon, as I am running short on tim at the moment. But I have a few ideas brewing that could really change the failure rate of almost any cob, and DR, your thoughts on this idea will be much appreciated . Maybe you could help fine tune some of my greenhorn errors. LOL
Ill lay it all out when I return with more time.

 

[PetFlora]

Yes, what we are growing should have SOME impact on specific wavelengths, spectrums, etc, but not as much as most think , IMO

How much does our annual sunlight change?? a LITTLE BIT. Mostly the ANGLE it hits at a certain point of the year, along with dramatic temp and humidity changes of course.
So, as of late, my understanding about the cannabis plant is that it will adapt ( to some extent), to almost ANY light that it is provided, with some pros and cons of course, BUT in general, what they want is MORE LIGHT!!!! And as it seems, more whites with some warmth added, do just what we want. Changing spectrums as the plant matures will help some, but me, I am not changing lights and bulbs on a constant basis to get a LITTLE bit of bonus trichs or size. When the correct full spectrum is delivered from the get go, I plan on staying the course and NOT switching anything when I go into flower.
You just need the correct full spectrum from the beginning, in my humble opinion

You are mostly there with the desire for one light.

Having played with leds now for ~ 3 years, here's my theory in action, and duplicated by A-51, and perhaps others

Roughly 4500k from seed to bud set should work awesome. I am using 2 custom made ufo 90s one is 3500, the other 5000= ~ 4300K. Now that I have the BML light bars I see the plants loving the added Royal Blue 450nm diodes

Once buds set, I add ~ 30% 3000/2700. Some people think 660 is necessary, not me, but I have some in my BML light bars, which were added to the tent 3 days ago (see my thread)

Companies like A 51 provide separate o/o switches, to add the reds once buds set.

 

[SloStoner]

what do you guys think about growing in a 2x2 box with about 3-5 cree cxa3050's. i would use one 5000k and 3 3000k. this would be about 200w of led, in my opinion enough for that little space

 

[sammyz2646]

In that small space?? I would just use 1 CXA in a 2x2 ---- 3000k would be my choice throughout the cycle

These things are no joke and heat is a factor in a small space---plus that CXA (alone) would kill it----- in a 2x2

EDIT--Damn you could hear a pin drop in this forum ----its so quiet----for days at times