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Growroom Electricity and Wiring
- Thread starter Phillthy
- Start date
If I'm understanding correctly the problem with doing that is that I need 240v on the other end. I'm planning on using some Philips CMH bulbs from advanced tech. I don't have much need much for 120.
Is the circuit already in place or are you planning on running new wire? You could hit a small sub-panel with a 120/240v 30a feed and supply all of your needs (both 120 and 240v) and have appropriate breaker sizing for downstream components.
Ok, that works perfectly.
At a hundred feet with a full 30 amp load on #10 wire, you are pushing the voltage drop a little more than I personally would like, but it's unlikely that you will be loaded that heavily. You should know that you are only allowed 80% of the breaker rating for a continuous load, defined as anything that runs over 3 hours.
If you run 10/3 with ground (there are actually 4 wires in it - red, black, white, and bare copper) it will carry 30 amps, and then you can feed a small 120/240v sub-panel at the other end. They are only about $20 or so at home depot and breakers are roughly $5 apiece. You can then set a double-pole breaker in the sub to feed your 240v light circuit, and a couple of single-pole breakers to feed 120v receptacles. You will want to try and keep the load balanced between the two 120v breakers so that you don't see an imbalance in voltage.
Is this within the same structure as the main panel? What are you planning on running for lighting?
At a hundred feet with a full 30 amp load on #10 wire, you are pushing the voltage drop a little more than I personally would like, but it's unlikely that you will be loaded that heavily. You should know that you are only allowed 80% of the breaker rating for a continuous load, defined as anything that runs over 3 hours.
If you run 10/3 with ground (there are actually 4 wires in it - red, black, white, and bare copper) it will carry 30 amps, and then you can feed a small 120/240v sub-panel at the other end. They are only about $20 or so at home depot and breakers are roughly $5 apiece. You can then set a double-pole breaker in the sub to feed your 240v light circuit, and a couple of single-pole breakers to feed 120v receptacles. You will want to try and keep the load balanced between the two 120v breakers so that you don't see an imbalance in voltage.
Is this within the same structure as the main panel? What are you planning on running for lighting?
Your call, it's a close one.
If you are pushing the 100' mark rather than the 75', my choice would be the #8. Assuming copper wire, the #10 is a leaner with a 30 amp load creating a 3.1% voltage drop. Industrial applications with motor loads and HID lighting call for the voltage drop to be under 3%, and the residential spec is 5%. The problem occurs if your voltage from the utility is on the low side to start with - if that is the case, then every time your refrigerator, freezer, toaster oven, etc. kick on, then the HID lighting can drop off line and restart. HID ballasts are typically very sensitive to voltage fluctuations, and repeated restarts are hard on lamp life.
The benefit of running #8, other than this issue, is that you could swap the feed breaker out to 40 amps and be able to run a 32a load continuously. It sounds doubtful that you would ever need that, but if you are like the rest of us, these things tend to get larger rather than smaller.
If you are pushing the 100' mark rather than the 75', my choice would be the #8. Assuming copper wire, the #10 is a leaner with a 30 amp load creating a 3.1% voltage drop. Industrial applications with motor loads and HID lighting call for the voltage drop to be under 3%, and the residential spec is 5%. The problem occurs if your voltage from the utility is on the low side to start with - if that is the case, then every time your refrigerator, freezer, toaster oven, etc. kick on, then the HID lighting can drop off line and restart. HID ballasts are typically very sensitive to voltage fluctuations, and repeated restarts are hard on lamp life.
The benefit of running #8, other than this issue, is that you could swap the feed breaker out to 40 amps and be able to run a 32a load continuously. It sounds doubtful that you would ever need that, but if you are like the rest of us, these things tend to get larger rather than smaller.
CactusBlossom
New member
Hi all... I'm part of a team looking to rent a warehouse in washington state. We are in the process of acquiring our i502 (legal) license to produce. We will probably be running about 56k watts of lighting and the AC to cool all those lights.
My question is related to the lack of power to the building. We are going to call the utility company to potentially upgrade the service from a measly 200 amps to potentially being 3 phase, 277 volt. Is this our best option? The way I count it, we will need approximately 500 or more amps to power everything, and not being an expert I am not sure the cheap but safe way to go for our build out.
Any help greatly appreciated...oh and if any of you licensed electricians happen to live in washington, we'd love to discuss hiring you for our build out!
My question is related to the lack of power to the building. We are going to call the utility company to potentially upgrade the service from a measly 200 amps to potentially being 3 phase, 277 volt. Is this our best option? The way I count it, we will need approximately 500 or more amps to power everything, and not being an expert I am not sure the cheap but safe way to go for our build out.
Any help greatly appreciated...oh and if any of you licensed electricians happen to live in washington, we'd love to discuss hiring you for our build out!
1st of all, 277v is one leg of 480v 3-phase to neutral, so the 3-phase power that you would be looking at is 480v, not 277v. Phase-to-phase voltage (hot leg to hot leg) = 480v, phase-to-neutral = 277v.
The first thing that you might want to do is determine what ballasts you will use - I believe that the selection for horticultural equipment at 277v is going to be somewhat limited. It's a pretty standard voltage for industrial/commercial lighting, but many of the ballast that I've seen are only rated up to 240vac.
Secondly, you need to find out if 3-phase is even an option from the utility. In many places, they are very reluctant to run 3-phase unless they are guaranteed x number of years at y load. Even if it is available, it may wind up being cost prohibitive to swap over.
As for "cheap", I think that you will find that there is no cheap way of running 500 amps of 3-phase power.
The first thing that you might want to do is determine what ballasts you will use - I believe that the selection for horticultural equipment at 277v is going to be somewhat limited. It's a pretty standard voltage for industrial/commercial lighting, but many of the ballast that I've seen are only rated up to 240vac.
Secondly, you need to find out if 3-phase is even an option from the utility. In many places, they are very reluctant to run 3-phase unless they are guaranteed x number of years at y load. Even if it is available, it may wind up being cost prohibitive to swap over.
As for "cheap", I think that you will find that there is no cheap way of running 500 amps of 3-phase power.
outhereinthesun
Member
Well,
Am using 2x 600watt dimmable ballasts with a 4t eco switch,
got my 2 lights and my 2 fans running from the switch (controller), which in turn is plugged into the mains.
I have a travel adapter between the main, which i think will end up causing me trouble once lights are on..
However, room main switch shut off when i brought a cattle into the room and switched it on with the fans just for a test, i havent switched the fans and the lights on yet (is it advisable to plug in the MH and HPS just to swicth on the ballasts and switch it off again till its needed in like 2-3 weeks? )
my plan is to eventually just get another cable running into the room from another main (wall plug) we use 240 v here as standard output..
cables are standard asian/african cables and plugs but concerned that have to use travel adapters to convert. am sure it has an effect.
any thought? bump
Am using 2x 600watt dimmable ballasts with a 4t eco switch,
got my 2 lights and my 2 fans running from the switch (controller), which in turn is plugged into the mains.
I have a travel adapter between the main, which i think will end up causing me trouble once lights are on..
However, room main switch shut off when i brought a cattle into the room and switched it on with the fans just for a test, i havent switched the fans and the lights on yet (is it advisable to plug in the MH and HPS just to swicth on the ballasts and switch it off again till its needed in like 2-3 weeks? )
my plan is to eventually just get another cable running into the room from another main (wall plug) we use 240 v here as standard output..
cables are standard asian/african cables and plugs but concerned that have to use travel adapters to convert. am sure it has an effect.
any thought? bump
Most of the travel adapters that I've seen are for pretty low wattage devices like electric razors and computers, and would not be appropriate for HID lighting loads. There should be a rating in either amps or watts on the device, and it should probably be at least 30% more than your connected load to allow for start-up surge.
outhereinthesun
Member
Why waste time typing NEGATIVE/STALE words down peoples mouth instead of just quickly dotting down an answer gents? Too much effort really or just nonchalant about a simple assistance effort.. dahm man,
No bless. Karma-loops...
Nway attached a pic of my control station, done myself. I put membranes (self made) between everything and the surface of the wood to keep the vibrations and supersonic humming to a minimum.
Still no idea how am going to plug up everything properly but got a friend whose an electrical engineer to give some leads, just wish i could just show him the setup but privacy is something crucial.
Peace
nway..
Give Thanks
No bless. Karma-loops...
Nway attached a pic of my control station, done myself. I put membranes (self made) between everything and the surface of the wood to keep the vibrations and supersonic humming to a minimum.
Still no idea how am going to plug up everything properly but got a friend whose an electrical engineer to give some leads, just wish i could just show him the setup but privacy is something crucial.
Peace
nway..
Give Thanks
nukklehead
Active member
Dang Rives...
I stalk you like a bad ex on here ( for electrical knowledge
)
Dude is off his meds or something...
...???
Nuk..
I stalk you like a bad ex on here ( for electrical knowledge
)Dude is off his meds or something...
...???Nuk..
JeanGreens
Member
Ok folks.. I am at my wits end.
I am growing in a bedroom. 9.5 x 12. Its the 4th bedroom in a 2500 sf, four bedroom house. I put up two 1,000 watt lights and no matter where I plug them in the house, I cant get both to stay lit. I can get one to stay lit, but its not enough coverage for the number of plants! Every one I talk to says it will work, yet it wont. I can only get one of the 1,000 watt lights to stay on.
Why wont it work if I plug the extension cord into another socket? I have been fighting the light problem for days now. I had it working with a 1000HPS, a 600 HPS and a 400 Gavita HPS. Then the friend who was letting me borrow the 600 wanted it back, so I removed the 600 and the 400 and put up the 1000, and I am unable to get both lights on.
I am so so so so so frustrated. I have survived mites TWICE, flooded the room three times before we could get the water problems solved, I have survived the lamp crashing onto the plants and taking out the center stems of almost all of them, but this I cant fix.
My plants are green and lush. I caught the mites within the first day or two, so just a few leaves got damaged.
This isnt fun now. The advice I am getting just doesnt work. I am afraid to call a real electrician. I have 13 plants that are nearly 3ft tall, and I cant get them out of veg into flower because I cant keep the damn lights on!
Any suggestions, because seriously, I am about to just pull out half the plants and quit them. At least I could raise the 6 plants under the footprint of light I have.
sad Jean Greens.
I am growing in a bedroom. 9.5 x 12. Its the 4th bedroom in a 2500 sf, four bedroom house. I put up two 1,000 watt lights and no matter where I plug them in the house, I cant get both to stay lit. I can get one to stay lit, but its not enough coverage for the number of plants! Every one I talk to says it will work, yet it wont. I can only get one of the 1,000 watt lights to stay on.
Why wont it work if I plug the extension cord into another socket? I have been fighting the light problem for days now. I had it working with a 1000HPS, a 600 HPS and a 400 Gavita HPS. Then the friend who was letting me borrow the 600 wanted it back, so I removed the 600 and the 400 and put up the 1000, and I am unable to get both lights on.
I am so so so so so frustrated. I have survived mites TWICE, flooded the room three times before we could get the water problems solved, I have survived the lamp crashing onto the plants and taking out the center stems of almost all of them, but this I cant fix.
My plants are green and lush. I caught the mites within the first day or two, so just a few leaves got damaged.
This isnt fun now. The advice I am getting just doesnt work. I am afraid to call a real electrician. I have 13 plants that are nearly 3ft tall, and I cant get them out of veg into flower because I cant keep the damn lights on!
Any suggestions, because seriously, I am about to just pull out half the plants and quit them. At least I could raise the 6 plants under the footprint of light I have.
sad Jean Greens.
You need to make sure that the lights are on different circuits, not just separate receptacles, and verify that both of the circuits are running pretty close to unloaded.
Plug a light into whatever receptacle you want to map first - if you have a drop light with a cord long enough to reach the breaker panel so you can easily see the light go off, it will make it easier. A 120v-powered radio that you turn up loud enough to hear at the panel also works well.
Now, trip the breakers one at a time until you turn the light or radio off. Leave the breaker off and go see what else in the house went off at the same time. It is very unlikely that the single receptacle is the only thing powered by the breaker, so you need to verify what else is on the circuit.
Now do the same thing all over again with another receptacle that is within reach of your grow.
When you have gone through this to the point that you have found two receptacles on separate circuits which are minimally loaded, you should be in good shape.
Plug a light into whatever receptacle you want to map first - if you have a drop light with a cord long enough to reach the breaker panel so you can easily see the light go off, it will make it easier. A 120v-powered radio that you turn up loud enough to hear at the panel also works well.
Now, trip the breakers one at a time until you turn the light or radio off. Leave the breaker off and go see what else in the house went off at the same time. It is very unlikely that the single receptacle is the only thing powered by the breaker, so you need to verify what else is on the circuit.
Now do the same thing all over again with another receptacle that is within reach of your grow.
When you have gone through this to the point that you have found two receptacles on separate circuits which are minimally loaded, you should be in good shape.
JeanGreens
Member
Hello Rives! Thanks! WOW! This is brilliant!
I have photographs of the walls before the sheet rock was put on this house. I made notes of where all the wires were, and how they ran the circuits. Although I hadnt come up with the brilliant way to check them that you did, I knew enough that the cords had to be on different circuits.
I know enough about power to know that I had to have circuits with little to now power being drawn currently. I have two circuits in the house that literally have nothing on them, as I am not using the rooms.
I put cords in those bedrooms, snaking them through the house..and the lights still do their "fade out" thing.
Its almost as if the house is wired correctly on one side, but not the other. Yet, I know that cant be right either.
I started out with one dual hose AC, four wall fans, one six inch air scrubber, and one 1000 watt light. So far, so good.
But something happened... the plants didnt know I was under the impression these plants didnt get any higher than 18 inches, and that all strains were the same. I was told "try lots of strains, see what you like." So I popped 7 strains, 13 seeds total. At the time, it seemed like not enough... boy.. was I wrong.
Its like "Little shop of horrors!" Feed Me, Seymour!
I was told to put them in bigger containers, so they are all in 5 gallon airpots. So suddenly the 1,000 watt light is not enough.
I had a 600 watt and a 400 watt gavita bulb and ballast sets. It took three nights of plugging and unplugging before I found which way I could run the lights and get all three lights working. I got it done. Got three nights of sleep, then my buddy wants the ballast for the 600 watt back, and my only option is to do two 1,000 watt bulbs, because thats the other ballast I had.
Now.. I put in the new ballast and the 1,000 watt light
both ballasts went dim, even though they were on 15 amp circuits all by themselves. One would turn off.. then wait a while,, then turn on, then the other would do it, sometimes both will do it.
Thats when I started this insanity of trying to figure out what plugs can handle the lamp. Once I plugged in the second 1,000 lamp, nothing has worked right.
I unplugged one lamp, and the other one started fading in and out and turning off. I dont know what to do. I want to call in a real electrician, but feel I have to rip out my grow to do it. Im scared. I am scared there is a serious problem in the wiring and dont know what to do, let alone know how to get light.
Thanks Rives
