Induction Heating

[Hashmasta-Kut]

if one makes oil from trim there will be much more residue after vaporizing it. bud with no leaf will produce the least possible residue i think.

 

[jump117]

Is it a sign that you properly vaporized your oil without combusting the 10 -30% impurities?

I think that the residual black plaque formed from chemically inseparable components of resin
and correct temperature setting is the last barrier to protect us from them.
I set 340C / 644F and clean the heater after every dab.

Hashmasta-Kut, what do you think about 400F, is it enough?

 

[midwestHIGHS]

I'll have to purchase a new IR laser thermometer, do some testing. It seems your black plaque has burned at the end of the dab on the top pic, this doesn't happen when I dab at lower temps it just stays black never burns off untill re heated with the torch. I think dabbing at around 500F would be more practical with heated ti as it cools down much faster when oil is applied, compared to something constantly heated. 400F always worked fine in my extreme q vaporizer with oil. Leaving the same black residue as a dab.

 

[Mia]

I notice the soot too when I dab at lower temperatures. It builds on the nail and either needs to be scraped or combusted away.
So lower temperatures=soot and higher temperatures=oxidation obviously.
I guess cleaning is required regardless.

 

[midwestHIGHS]

Or is it still what many assume as improper flushing, residual sprays from the plant, or improperly purged?

Or is it possible they can all contribute, and if so how can we determine our residue is the good kind or the bad kind?
.

They all can contribute for sure. How can we know its the good or the bad kind, grow or new who and how the material was grown and make the extracts properly your self. Then you will know that the residue isn't the possibillity of being something nasty, like pesticides or nutrients.

 

[jump117]

It seems your black plaque has burned at the end of the dab on the top pic, this doesn't happen when I dab at lower temps it just stays black never burns off untill re heated with the torch.

Two upper photos made after dab, it looks burned? the two in bottom shows reheating before mechanical cleaning.

 

[midwestHIGHS]

The little bit of white char, made me think the black plaque possibly combusted in the top left picture, before the mechanical cleaning

 

[midwestHIGHS]

Jump - Hows the taste with the ceramic over grade 2 TI or quartz? I seen someone post pictures on FB of ceramic nails, no one really commented on flavor differences.

 

[Hashmasta-Kut]

I think that the residual black plaque formed from chemically inseparable components of resin
and correct temperature setting is the last barrier to protect us from them.
I set 340C / 644F and clean the heater after every dab.

Hashmasta-Kut, what do you think about 400F, is it enough?

i'm sorry, i am not sure the numbers. for sure the lower the temperature you vaporize at, the more residue though.

 

[Egzoset]

Salutations everybody,

Time to pop considering a few events have occured, starting with this one i guess:

ICM: Induction dabbing (2014-May-23)
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A video document from Loto Labs Evoke got some attention too:

YouTube: Loto Labs Induction Vaporizer with Concentrates Demo (2014-Jun-17)​
​

But there's still the matter of power/temperature control, etc... Which revives an old idea:

...the Curie alloys...

It turns out i may have found an IH cooking pan offering just that, at least when loaded with oil:

Demeyere ControlInduc (Curie Temperature = 250 degrees Celcius)
​

But 29 cm (dia.) simply sounds too large for a personal cannabic vaporizer! So, i think i might want to cut strips into it, eventually...

​

At 224+ $ CAD per thermostatic IH cooking pan that's making me search for alternative Curie alloy sources instead. Though, while a pan would only have required some IH plate anyone can find at Walmart for ~100 $ CAD - or even less, euh... Well, WizarG once mentioned Metcal's "SmartHeat" IH soldering iron tips and this won't work unless my IH coil wraps around these much smaller Curie alloy item(s). For example IH drivers as these:

Dental Wax Tool IH Heater
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That's also close to a hundred bucks, then perhaps these power IH tools would offer to support practically any future scenario imaginable (?):

Mini Ductor II
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Or it may even become tempting to moddify a ready-made IH plate:

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For example!...

 

[Egzoset]

Salutations RulaTone,

...thinking how much tane is wasted heating metallic pads-nails...

It seems if one waits long enough then time may work in his favour, ultimately:

Green Light Technology Co., Ltd. - G9 e-Nail III​
​

Well, it's not 100 % induction i'm afraid - not to mention the manufacturer's web site happens to be broken for some reason!... Yet the heater inside is said to be from Bakon (model VH90 apparently) and hence that would be based on magnetic induction:

​

Though i must also point out its corresponding e-Nail is NOT.

But that's a 1st anyway...

Good day, have fun!!

 

[Egzoset]

Salutations,

...if one waits long enough...

Time to pop!

Using Near-Symetrical complementary Hybrid Cores i believe it's possible to implement micro-dosage via thermostatically-limited "Heat Charge" injection, with the benefit of continuous analog heat control, "Bi-Energy" with butane as a fall-back option and more...



Good day, have fun!!

 

[Egzoset]

Salutations,

Time to pop again.

Back to the spring of 2012 my initial difficulty was that i just couldn't operate my VaporGenie Classic properly, so i gave it away within the week of purchase! Some 5 years later i'm proud to declare i've completed the migration from Dry-Baking Ovenizers to what's much better suited to consumers as myself - which i called "Plan-B" (where "B" stand for "Butane", e.g. the "fall-back" mode for a future/eventual "Plan-A")...

Notice the alternative Core layout and associated "ritual" where exposition to potential butane-related by-products has been reduced significantly:

3.34 mm thick x 13.43 mm (dia.) SiC Front Puck
1.00 mm thick x 12.46 mm (dia.) 17-Holes Metal Disc
2.37 mm thick x 11.71 MESH-60 Brass-Wrapped Top-of-Bowl SiC Puck
26.27 mm tall/deep Sphere (wood)
10.22 mm tall/deep Flame-Catcher Funnel/Ring
15.64 mm tall/deep Monobloc

(Operating sequence)​

The trick was to move the secondary heat source even closer to my cannabic bowl, then optimize further...

(Half a "LavaCapsule")

(Micro-Bursting Sequence - 1 year ago)

(Switching from Yellow "Candle" flame to Blue "Jet" flame)​

Brief heat pulses provide great time-compressed aroma/taste appreciation while promoting "conservation".

As a bonus i also managed to develop/clarify my "Bi-Energy" (Induction Heat) Lava concept in the process:

(Bi-Energy: 2-vaporizers-in-1)​

For me this is the conclusion of a 5 years mission, « to boldly go where no man has gone before! »... Plenty of hints have been published around so it's only a matter of browsing the web searching for keywords such as these below, m'well, if any more details are required that is!...

Google Images: Egzoset IH LavaCapsule TinyPic​

Please keep in mind that as far as i'm concerned there's just nothing mercantile about it considering VG's patent (US 7434584 B2) already covers the fire half and they won't be bothered with the rest anyway... In other words my humble contribution simply was to implement/fix their forgotten fig. 11/12 item - and this happens to work wonders.

Good day, have fun!!

 

[Egzoset]

Time to refresh...

(Easy to operate thanks to eye-contact.)

(Aroma/taste appreciation + Easy inhalations.)

(Radical departure from slow/steady VG ritual...)​

The airflow and everything are well adjusted and quite ready for IH transposition.

Who's the 1st brave adventurer on a quest for some stimulating challenge, willing to replicate this DIY project and conclude with a fair peer review??

Just in time for Christmass...