Big Plants, Little Buds

[GorillaJean]

So it's nearing the end of week 7 of flower for these super lemon haze girls and it seems like i've been waiting forever for this "swell" of the buds to come on. The strain is listed as a 10 week finisher, but the majority of the buds look more like week 3 stage at this point and im starting to worry that there is something wrong. With only two weeks left before flush I doubt there is much I can do to help them at this point, but I'd like to know what exactly went wrong. I have another tent running the exact same DIY under current system, with the same nutes, just a different strain(pineapple express) and it's doing much better and looking like it's going to yield almost double what this tent has. Here's the history: vegged for 6 weeks with hardly any problems, ppm dropped consistently, they drank like crazy, and grew into huge plants(huge in my experience). The stalks of most of the girls are nearing 5" in circumference. I topped each one a couple of times and scrogged them as best I could. Being my first time with scrogging, I ended up with a fairly uneven canopy, which I think may be a contributing factor to the small buds. I also believe high temps early in flower(78-82) caused a lot of stretch which can be seen in the pics. I also defoliated a good portion of the fan leaves through late veg and early flower, finally lollipopping the entire bottom third of the plant. The strain seemed to be touchy with nitrogen, and I had what looked to me to be a nitrogen toxicity late in veg. I lightened up the nutes and things went back to normal for a couple weeks.

Early in flower, around week 3 I think, they starting to develop the same clawing leaves as earlier in veg, indicating another nitrogen tox. I flushed for 48 hours with plain ro, and the leaves improved slightly. As flowering continued I was never able to get control of this clawing issue, and some of the leaves are now standing straight upwards, especially the ones near the light, while some of the lower ones are still clawing downwards. The light is 1000w and I know it's closer than the recommended two feet, it's more like less than a foot from the tallest buds in reality. I'm in a tent and unfortunately with the light mover I can't raise it any higher. I'll attach pics of this issue. Along with this, I have seen twisted tips on new leaf growth within the buds, very small buds, amber pistils, and deformed fan leaf growth. The room conditions could also be a factor, the tents are in a room in a cool basement (60-65F) I have had the main doors of the tent open in an effort to keep humidity down, as well as the the entrance and exit door of the room itself open with a large fan pushing air out one door and pulling in from the other. This effect has cool air coming into the tents keeping the room itself around 65-70F, the tent temps at 70-75F, and the canopy temps slightly below 80F. Could this variation in temps at different parts of the plants cause growth issues?

My main issue which i'm sure is every growers main issue, is the yield. The buds are tiny, some not even larger than my thumbnail, i'm ultimately trying to figure out if it is the overall lack of light(1000w on light mover in 4x8 tent), nitrogen tox, canopy height, temps, or even the ph. I do not trust my ph meter at all(Hanna ppm/ph combo grocheck) the thing doesn't seem to hold a calibration whatsoever and reads a different ph every time I attempt to calibrate. I've been double checking it with the old dropper and water sample method but you can only be so accurate with that.

I also forgot to mention the nutrients, in flower it seems like I was never able to make it to the suggested ppm from Current Culture. I maxed at only 600 or so and the last two weeks I saw ppm rise and had to remove and dilute some of the solution to bring it down. I got some minor tip burn, but never let it do any major damage. I'm overwhelmed with all the different factors that could lead to these super small buds. I know it's a long thread and I thank anybody early who has the patience to take on this problem with me. Also forgot to mention, some of the larger buds have swollen calyxes with amber pistils, I don't really know much about hermies or pollination so I attached a pic just to verify nothings wrong. Like i said, I think it's too late to help this group but let me know what I should change to make this not happen again.

Main Factors:
Not enough light?
Nitrogen Toxicity?
Ph problems?
Heat Stress?
Cool air in room?

Hydro Growers:
1. Are you growing from seed or clones? Seed - feminized
2. How old are your plants? 13 Weeks (6 veg, 7 flower) 10 week strain
3. How tall are your plants? 24" - 36"
4. What type of hydro system are you using? RDWC DIY under current
5. What brand/type of nutrients are you using? Cultured Solutions Full Line
6. What is the Ph of your nutrient solution? 5.6-6.0
7. What is the PPM/EC of your tap water? Using RO ppm:14
8. What is the PPM/EC of your nutrient solution? 550/1.1
9. What is the temperature of your nutrient solution? 65-69 F
10. Does your PPM/EC show a rise or fall when you do your daily PPM check? About 10ppm drop daily
11. Does your pH show a rise or fall when you do your daily check? Erratic depending on nutrient temp but overall rise of .1 or so daily
12. Do you foliar feed or spray your plants with anything? No
13. What kind of lights do you use and how many watts combined? (HPS, MH, fluorescent, halogen, incandescent "plant lights") 1000W ventilated HPS on light mover
14. How close are your lights to the plants? 1ft
15. What size is your grow space in square feet? 8x4
16. What is the temperature and humidity in your grow space? 78 F canopy - 74 F room / 55% Rh
17. Have you noticed any insect activity in your grow space? Occasional fly or small flying bug
18. How much experience do you have growing? New to hydro, one soil grow

 

[quokka]

I think you just have to give it longer, maybe 12-13 weeks?

Most seed companies put less weeks than they really need to help sell their seeds.

 

[quokka]

It might be a more sativa pheno of SLH........

 

[Meison]

I grew slh 4 times so far. Give it time, around 25% of the buds size kick in around week 10. If the buds are already small was probably other things involved. All you can do now is wait and see

 

[GorillaJean]

I grew slh 4 times so far. Give it time, around 25% of the buds size kick in around week 10. If the buds are already small was probably other things involved. All you can do now is wait and see

In your experience with the strain, what week did you start flushing? I was planning on flushing week 10 but I guess I just have to wait and check the trichs right?

 

[Meison]

In your experience with the strain, what week did you start flushing? I was planning on flushing week 10 but I guess I just have to wait and check the trichs right?

Always check the trichs to know when the plant is ready. I like to start the flush the week before to 10 days. For the flush never use plain water. Use a low ec with calibrated ph. Example, if you feed 1.3 ec 5.5ph. Just prepare a 0.4-5 ec ph 5.5 and let it be. To my understanding the trade of nutrients happens throw osmosis, meaning if the solution is short on mineral the excess from the plant will transfer to your low nutrient solution, actualy flushing the salts. maybe Im wrong but let the most expirienced growers throw some advice in.

I think the temp, nutrient problems def are the cause of the small buds.
Think of yield as an equation. If you mess up the variables, the result at the end changes! Stressing the plant is nevet good.

 

[noreason]

I have another tent running the exact same DIY under current system, with the same nutes, just a different strain(pineapple express) and it's doing much better and looking like it's going to yield almost double what this tent has.

This should makes you think...and it's a proof of what's going on.

I ended up with a fairly uneven canopy, which I think may be a contributing factor to the small buds.

I don't think. Maybe it can lead at a slight lower yield.

I also believe high temps early in flower(78-82) caused a lot of stretch which can be seen in the pics.

It depends, but generally yes.

I also defoliated a good portion of the fan leaves through late veg and early flower, finally lollipopping the entire bottom third of the plant.

This is not a think I like, those leaves were energy wasted. You paid some electricity to obtain those leaves, if you remove them you are going to waste energy. Period.
Than I know what is defoliation but this is another topic...

The strain seemed to be touchy with nitrogen, and I had what looked to me to be a nitrogen toxicity late in veg. I lightened up the nutes and things went back to normal for a couple weeks.

You got it. Too much N.

As flowering continued I was never able to get control of this clawing issue, and some of the leaves are now standing straight upwards, especially the ones near the light, while some of the lower ones are still clawing downwards.

Once the leaves are deformed for too much N, they never come back normal.
You say you wasn't able to do anything for it and this makes me think about fertilizers.

The room conditions could also be a factor, the tents are in a room in a cool basement (60-65F) I have had the main doors of the tent open in an effort to keep humidity down, as well as the the entrance and exit door of the room itself open with a large fan pushing air out one door and pulling in from the other. This effect has cool air coming into the tents keeping the room itself around 65-70F, the tent temps at 70-75F, and the canopy temps slightly below 80F. Could this variation in temps at different parts of the plants cause growth issues?

I don't think.

My main issue which i'm sure is every growers main issue, is the yield. The buds are tiny, some not even larger than my thumbnail, i'm ultimately trying to figure out if it is the overall lack of light(1000w on light mover in 4x8 tent), nitrogen tox, canopy height, temps, or even the ph.

Strain/pheno and too much N. These are the issues IMHO.

I do not trust my ph meter at all(Hanna ppm/ph combo grocheck) the thing doesn't seem to hold a calibration whatsoever and reads a different ph every time I attempt to calibrate. I've been double checking it with the old dropper and water sample method but you can only be so accurate with that.

If you don't feel an accurate reading, change the electrode if you can.
Before this, try to clean the pH probe in some RO water, and then wash it with tap water. Do again the calibration procedure and done. If it works ok, if not, throw it in the trash. Not the entire tester, only the pH probe and get a new one.

I also forgot to mention the nutrients, in flower it seems like I was never able to make it to the suggested ppm from Current Culture.

If you can tell me if your nutes are 1/2/3 parts and what NPK values they have I can give you some suggetions maybe.

Main Factors:
Not enough light?
Nitrogen Toxicity?
Ph problems?
Heat Stress?
Cool air in room?

N toxicity and strain. Let's say you had a delay in flowering, don't consider what the seedbank tells you because it's only an indication, trat the plants with your grower's eyes. Let'em flowering with patience, you will see flowers growing. They still have a lot of white pistils, sign that the flowering is still at begininng.

Have some patience, I think your flowers will get a lot bigger. Meanwhile try to lower N.

 

[noreason]

To my understanding the trade of nutrients happens throw osmosis, meaning if the solution is short on mineral the excess from the plant will transfer to your low nutrient solution, actualy flushing the salts. maybe Im wrong but let the most expirienced growers throw some advice in.

There are many different ways the plant has to let ''things'' enter and also ''exit'' from the roots. Osmosis is mainly for getting water, not solutes.
However few ''things'' can enter the roots trought osmosis, but I think they're few and it's not the main pathway.

If you're interested try to have a look here to get an idea:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Active_transport

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passive_transport

 

[wildgrow]

My SLH is the same. Shes a light feeder (1/2 strength) and prefers not to have wet feet. I take her to 10-11 weeks - all the swell happens in the last 2.

Mine is also N sensitive. Like noreason said, the leaves wont flatten back out after she experiences too much N. When she tries to straighten out, the leaves look like yours do.

Were your fan leaves huge, like dinner plate sized? Mine dwarf my hand. I do no defo on her unless she interfers with other plants. She is very sativa structured.

This is she, from seed. I flipped her at 18ish inches and she finished at 44 inches.

This was right before harvest. I pulled all the fans off.

 

[GorillaJean]

I think you just have to give it longer, maybe 12-13 weeks?

Most seed companies put less weeks than they really need to help sell their seeds.

Yeah a lot of people have been telling me this, there is also the debate about if flowering starts at 12/12 flip or first hairs? If first hairs is the case then i'd only be at week 5 or so and if it's a 13 week finisher... boy do I still got some time left hahaha

 

[GorillaJean]

Always check the trichs to know when the plant is ready. I like to start the flush the week before to 10 days. For the flush never use plain water. Use a low ec with calibrated ph. Example, if you feed 1.3 ec 5.5ph. Just prepare a 0.4-5 ec ph 5.5 and let it be. To my understanding the trade of nutrients happens throw osmosis, meaning if the solution is short on mineral the excess from the plant will transfer to your low nutrient solution, actualy flushing the salts. maybe Im wrong but let the most expirienced growers throw some advice in.

I think the temp, nutrient problems def are the cause of the small buds.
Think of yield as an equation. If you mess up the variables, the result at the end changes! Stressing the plant is nevet good.

I have heard of that method of low ec flush before. On that note I'm doing a 48 hour pure RO flush right now to try to leech out some of this salt and N toxicity, do you think I should add some nutes to the water to help this out? Also, when I do a nutrient change each week I pump out all the water that I can from the rez, and then shop vac the remainder. I then fill it back up with tap water for 10 minutes and flush it all out again, my thinking being that it will dilute and stir up any remaining minerals in the containers. But when I add back fresh RO at 14ppm the full system settles in around 80ppm so there is obviously still some solution remaining in the containers. Is it ok to have this bit of solution left during rez changes?

When you say temp as a problem you are referring to it being too high right? I've brought the temp down to 76 at canopy and 73 tent temp the past couple of days is that more appropriate? Lower temps seem to raise my humidity level though, even with the dehumidifier I can only get it down to 55-60% at these temps.

 

[noreason]

Also, when I do a nutrient change each week I pump out all the water that I can from the rez, and then shop vac the remainder. I then fill it back up with tap water for 10 minutes and flush it all out again, my thinking being that it will dilute and stir up any remaining minerals in the containers. But when I add back fresh RO at 14ppm the full system settles in around 80ppm so there is obviously still some solution remaining in the containers. Is it ok to have this bit of solution left during rez changes?

You remember myself when I started my first hydro setup

No bro, you don't need to change that water. It's fine to change the majority of the solution, if some liters remain, there are no problems.
To give you an idea, I'm using a 350 liters system, and I change water at max 4 times before final flush.
If there are no deposites, no algae, no issues, I just change part of water, let's say half.
My plants don't have any sign on a single leaf and they're under a lot of light.

Lower temps seem to raise my humidity level though, even with the dehumidifier I can only get it down to 55-60% at these temps.

Because umidity is relative to temperature. More hot, more water the air can hold, so the RH goes down

 

[GorillaJean]

This should makes you think...and it's a proof of what's going on.




I don't think. Maybe it can lead at a slight lower yield.




It depends, but generally yes.



This is not a think I like, those leaves were energy wasted. You paid some electricity to obtain those leaves, if you remove them you are going to waste energy. Period.
Than I know what is defoliation but this is another topic...



You got it. Too much N.



Once the leaves are deformed for too much N, they never come back normal.
You say you wasn't able to do anything for it and this makes me think about fertilizers.



I don't think.



Strain/pheno and too much N. These are the issues IMHO.



If you don't feel an accurate reading, change the electrode if you can.
Before this, try to clean the pH probe in some RO water, and then wash it with tap water. Do again the calibration procedure and done. If it works ok, if not, throw it in the trash. Not the entire tester, only the pH probe and get a new one.



If you can tell me if your nutes are 1/2/3 parts and what NPK values they have I can give you some suggetions maybe.



N toxicity and strain. Let's say you had a delay in flowering, don't consider what the seedbank tells you because it's only an indication, trat the plants with your grower's eyes. Let'em flowering with patience, you will see flowers growing. They still have a lot of white pistils, sign that the flowering is still at begininng.

Have some patience, I think your flowers will get a lot bigger. Meanwhile try to lower N.

First of all thank you so much for the response. You cleared up a lot of little questions I had lingering in my head, driving me crazy! haha really though I have never had someone actually try to help and evaluate my full situation, you have rekindled my faith in the forums!

To get back to the issues, yeah the other tent's progress kind of eliminates environmental conditions. Although that tent doesn't have the biggest buds either, but at least they aren't too stretched and are growing in cola formation. Ultimately I don't think 1000w for the 4x8 space is sufficient, even with the light mover. CO2 issues have also been brought up in other forums, i'm in a basement with no fresh air intake, just recirculating the air continuously. All of this along with the N tox of course, all the factors coming into play. I've also been thinking about the time I started counting flowering weeks. People have told me to start from when the first hairs pistils appear, but I started my count as soon as I flipped from 12/12. Like you said, maybe I just need more time and they're taking longer than I expected. This likely being the case, how do I handle the nutrient regimen at this point? I'll attach the profiles of the nutes and my feed schedule so far(red is actual ratios used and max ppms) hopefully you can decipher some of this info. I stayed on track until week 4 of flower when the N tox came back, then got a little wild trying to get the nute balance right, but I think I just made things worse. I was planning on just following the 2:2:8 regimen for the remaining weeks, hopefully I don't run out lol

Here's the nutrient profiles:

Bloom A (3.7 - 0 - 3):
- Total Nitrogen – 3.7%
o Nitrate Nitrogen – 3.5%
o Ammoniacal Nitrogen – 0.2%
- Soluble Potash - 3%
- Calcium – 3.5%
- Iron - .09%
- Copper - .0035%
- Boron - .01%
- Manganese - .017%
- Molybdenum - .002%
- Zinc - .007%

Bloom B (0.9 – 4.8 – 6.2):
- Total Nitrogen – 0.9%
o Nitrate Nitrogen – 0.9%
- Available Phosphate – 4.8%
- Soluble Potash – 6.2%
- Magnesium - 0.75%
- Sulfur – 1%

Bud Booster (0 – 4.5 – 4.8):
- Available Phosphate – 4.5%
- Soluble Potash – 4.8%
- Magnesium – 0.7%
- Sulfur – 1.5%

Thanks again for the help brother, hopefully I just gotta get this N tox relieved and wait it out to see some swelling on these frosty flowers. Oh btw do you have any suggestions on a reliable meter? I'm going to see what I can do with this one, but I really lost faith in it and want to get a solid one to double check.

 

[GorillaJean]

My SLH is the same. Shes a light feeder (1/2 strength) and prefers not to have wet feet. I take her to 10-11 weeks - all the swell happens in the last 2.

Mine is also N sensitive. Like noreason said, the leaves wont flatten back out after she experiences too much N. When she tries to straighten out, the leaves look like yours do.

Were your fan leaves huge, like dinner plate sized? Mine dwarf my hand. I do no defo on her unless she interfers with other plants. She is very sativa structured.

This is she, from seed. I flipped her at 18ish inches and she finished at 44 inches.

View Image

This was right before harvest. I pulled all the fans off.

That sounds exactly like mine, maybe I need to pull back the nutes a bit, I've been trying to push them to meet the feed schedule and keep getting ppm rise every rez change and have to dilute.

Im hoping I can get this N tox under control after a flush, like you said some of the leaves seem to have pulled out of it, doing the muscle man curl now lol but alot of new growth within the buds is dark green and curling hard so I think I still have some issues with it.

The fan leaves were enormous, yes dinner plate sized, but after some deoliating I got rid of most of those huge ones and now i'm left with a ton of mid sizers which I guess they had to produce to make up for the ones i plucked. I'll be doing VERY light defoliating in the future, I think the way I did it on these caused more problems than good.

She looks great, real similar to mine, I just hope my flowers fatten up like yours did. What kind of lighting did you use?

 

[GorillaJean]

You remember myself when I started my first hydro setup

No bro, you don't need to change that water. It's fine to change the majority of the solution, if some liters remain, there are no problems.
To give you an idea, I'm using a 350 liters system, and I change water at max 4 times before final flush.
If there are no deposites, no algae, no issues, I just change part of water, let's say half.
My plants don't have any sign on a single leaf and they're under a lot of light.



Because umidity is relative to temperature. More hot, more water the air can hold, so the RH goes down

Haha i'm all about learning this stuff, I've had a ton of fun so far, despite the immense research and work!

Thanks for clearing up the flush info, I'm all paranoid about getting everything right, I don't want to make any mistakes I can avoid. When your changing only half of the water how do you handle the nutes? Just add in the new weeks ratios at half strength? Or do you try to account for the nutes already in the system?

I've got some salt buildup on a couple of the net pots and above the water line in the containers, and even the occasional upper roots exposed from the water. Is this what you mean by deposits? It's just like a dry salty film, I rinsed all the net pots through the hydroton with some RO earlier today so hopefully that will rinse off the excess.

 

[wildgrow]

That sounds exactly like mine, maybe I need to pull back the nutes a bit, I've been trying to push them to meet the feed schedule and keep getting ppm rise every rez change and have to dilute.

Im hoping I can get this N tox under control after a flush, like you said some of the leaves seem to have pulled out of it, doing the muscle man curl now lol but alot of new growth within the buds is dark green and curling hard so I think I still have some issues with it.

The fan leaves were enormous, yes dinner plate sized, but after some deoliating I got rid of most of those huge ones and now i'm left with a ton of mid sizers which I guess they had to produce to make up for the ones i plucked. I'll be doing VERY light defoliating in the future, I think the way I did it on these caused more problems than good.

She looks great, real similar to mine, I just hope my flowers fatten up like yours did. What kind of lighting did you use?

400 w hps. You can kinda make out that the light is flipped downward. She was the last to finish, so I tried to give her some vert-like lighting. I actually had to tie her to the wall because the branches were so long and thin. I did the best I could to minimize N around week 6 because she was so dark. Final yield was 3 1/4 zips.

Hope you do have the same pheno. I never get tired of her. I can be totally ripped and ill still smoke her just for the flavor.

 

[noreason]

First of all thank you so much for the response. You cleared up a lot of little questions I had lingering in my head, driving me crazy! haha really though I have never had someone actually try to help and evaluate my full situation, you have rekindled my faith in the forums!

That's a nice thing

CO2 issues have also been brought up in other forums, i'm in a basement with no fresh air intake, just recirculating the air continuously.

Consider co2 is difficult to get low than 300ppm, even with closed door. If you have a really sealed room ok, but if you have a normal house, with normal doors, well...I don't know. Depends on how much ''green'' and Watts there are too.
I have a ppm monitor and in the past I used it a lot. Funny to discover that with closed door and 800w in a little room, co2 never went down 300ppm. I didn't imagine it...

All of this along with the N tox of course, all the factors coming into play. I've also been thinking about the time I started counting flowering weeks. People have told me to start from when the first hairs pistils appear, but I started my count as soon as I flipped from 12/12.

No way. Flowering starts from the flip. If you consider the pre-flowering stage is different for every strain/pheno, it's a logical conclusion that flowering have to be considered from the switch.

Like you said, maybe I just need more time and they're taking longer than I expected. This likely being the case, how do I handle the nutrient regimen at this point? I'll attach the profiles of the nutes and my feed schedule so far(red is actual ratios used and max ppms) hopefully you can decipher some of this info. I stayed on track until week 4 of flower when the N tox came back, then got a little wild trying to get the nute balance right, but I think I just made things worse. I was planning on just following the 2:2:8 regimen for the remaining weeks, hopefully I don't run out lol

Observing the nutrients composition, and considering only the NPK values, it would be a good choice to use Bloom B alone. The ratio between NPK is a good one, little N, some P, and a lot of K. That's what I like.

However you can't consider only NPK values, because there are meso elements (Ca - Mg) and micro elements to take into the equation.

So you need to add some of bloom A, and I would say a ratio of 1 part A and 2 part B should be ok.
Doing the math you will have a ratio of N5.5 - P9.6 - K15.4
This ratio should work and you have all the other elements the plant needs.
The side note is that you can expect a Ca or Mg def. but it's not sure. So to avoid this, you can use some extra tap water, or add Ca-Mg, ora add single components like Calcium or Magnesium Oxyde. Bionova has them and they're good.

Bud Booster seems useless to me, as others PK booster. However I don't know how microelements are in in the 3 parts, but hey, let's try it, because following their suggestion, it doesn't work, just like many others fertilizers. Look at lucas formula for istance.

Oh btw do you have any suggestions on a reliable meter? I'm going to see what I can do with this one, but I really lost faith in it and want to get a solid one to double check.

Ok, let's talk about it. EC meter are easy instruments that only ''read'' how much electricity go trough two points. This is a simple measurement, meaning a cheap tester will work, and you don't need to spend a lot of money.

Ph tester are different. Just a little bit. Let say they are 2 pieces. The body and the probe. The body will work ''forever''. The probe is going to lose accuracy over time and even if it costs double of a cheap one, the end is the same for both.
So the solution is getting one with a BNC connection, so you can easily change the probe, because they're universal. There are only two kind of BNC connectors, small and large, I think 6 and 9 mm respectively.
That's what I do, and it works great for me. Just for info I use milwaukee brand EC tester and pH monitor.

Haha i'm all about learning this stuff, I've had a ton of fun so far, despite the immense research and work!

Thanks for clearing up the flush info, I'm all paranoid about getting everything right, I don't want to make any mistakes I can avoid. When your changing only half of the water how do you handle the nutes? Just add in the new weeks ratios at half strength? Or do you try to account for the nutes already in the system?

I take into account everything. What already is in the solution, what stage of growing is, how the plants are.
I add nutrients till the EC rise where it was. With some experience I don't need to measure how much nutrients, I just add free hand from the bottle to the rez, RDWC rocks because it's so fucking easy when you know how to handle it!

I've got some salt buildup on a couple of the net pots and above the water line in the containers, and even the occasional upper roots exposed from the water. Is this what you mean by deposits?

No. I meant deposites that are on the bottom of the buckets/reservoir. Dependings on what is inside the nutrients, from how much time they are there, deposits can forms. Sometimes I clean, that's all. But it's pretty rare.
One of the element causing this is silicon, I use to add it to get some defense from mold.

However don't worry on those salt buid-ups you see in the net-pot. I never experienced trouble with them.

It's just like a dry salty film, I rinsed all the net pots through the hydroton with some RO earlier today so hopefully that will rinse off the excess.

Probably they will be back soon.

Best luck

 

[Meison]

@noreason, thanks for the links it was very enlightening! I love to learn stuff, and I just wanted to thank you to improve my wisdom!

Also your last post here also gave me some insight, I just checked my system and I get some deposits, but now I know hehe

 

[MegaChron]

I would wait until week 10...Hoesntly in my experience I have seen big change within a weeks difference before...and hey if its a sour batch then well shit happens I guess.

Hopefully they plump up, I'm pretty sure they are just late to the punch. Give it a few weeks I think you'll see them grow bigger.