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Lets create the most effective cob light!

exploziv

exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
I'm using the drivers that my panels came with and using arduino I'll dim them by PWM. When I finish the system it will be capable of auto-dimming the lights to keep the temperatures in check. (cause I don't use A/C anymore)
I tought someone else in interested in DIY.. so I shared my plan I'm working on.
 
cocogrower

cocogrower

Member
sammyz2646 said:
I am all about a dimmable driver, even if its not super high quality.

Freedom to adjust is huge ,IMO especially in the learning phases, which I am still living in---and may retire in, (the learning phase) lol
Click to expand...

A learning monkey is a happy monkey! And when it comes to the brain i totally believe in what the neuroscience is teaching us - Use it or loose it.
 
cocogrower

cocogrower

Member
exploziv said:
I'm using the drivers that my panels came with and using arduino I'll dim them by PWM. When I finish the system it will be capable of auto-dimming the lights to keep the temperatures in check. (cause I don't use A/C anymore)
I tought someone else in interested in DIY.. so I shared my plan I'm working on.
Click to expand...

Arduino is cool shit! A b it over my head I'm afraid, so far at least. My clever little brother is toying with it though, maybe have to involve him in the project..:)

Is it working well? Would like a similar PWM solution for my outlet fan, but unfortunately its AC, so have to buy one of those ridiculously expensive climate controllers instead. I'll find out something..
 
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exploziv

exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
well, electronically, the project is working well, now i just need to throw a grow under dimmed leds to see if the 490 Hz PWM frequency that arduino outputs isn't causing problems to the plants.
 
hempfield

hempfield

Organic LED Grower
Veteran
You can use a frequency multiplicator circuit to rise the PWM freq if the 'flikering' affects the plants.
 
cocogrower

cocogrower

Member
exploziv said:
well, electronically, the project is working well, now i just need to throw a grow under dimmed leds to see if the 490 Hz PWM frequency that arduino outputs isn't causing problems to the plants.
Click to expand...

I remember that people were thinking about using stroboscopic plant light as a way to save energy. This was a long time ago and i don't remember if there was a conclusion. This would be a interesting subject for a "side by side grow": Same amount of watt applied in different pulses! :)
 
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cocogrower

cocogrower

Member
Earlier in this thread i posted this pic:

picture.php


Turns out that adding 1:625 nm and one 660:nm doesn't only raise par-values but also up's the CRI from 75 to a whooping 88! Adding one more 630 would up CRI to 92..

The problem is that it only seems possible to ad two more diodes without turning the heat sink to a cheddar cheese. Might have to drill extra holes as it is in order to fit the 2530's.. Let's hope not..

Link to heat sink.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/181350965625?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

The best 630 nm chips i found at digikey gives 100 l/w and gives ≈ 0,7 watt at 350 mA. This means that i won't get the amount of red I'm desiring with only two diodes..


Sammy: You have these heat sinks. Do you know if cree cobs will fit? Do you think it would be possible to fit more than two extra 3 watters?

My other solution is to use a good 630nm 5-10 watter on each heat sink. Does anybody know of a good source for that?

Ok. I've gotten pretty obsessed by this project, but i already invested so much in this, so i might as well continue to get it the way i want it! :)
 
S

sammyz2646

Member
cocogrower [B said:
Sammy[/B]: You have these heat sinks. Do you know if cree cobs will fit? Do you think it would be possible to fit more than two extra 3 watters?
Click to expand...



Greetings again Cocogrower, well, I am happy to see your taking the financial --LED-- leap (so to speak), and I am certain that it will be a success, especially since you seem to be way less wreckless than me--- in your planning. I am a thorough planner, but my research is lacking at times--- prior to pulling the trigger..Patience is still something I struggle with. Not a problem that bothers you---- I assume. :)

Yes I would think that there is plenty of room for the Cree on that heat sink and you should also have spatial room and hopefully a nice temperature cushion to be able to add them. Again , all the holes on that sink are for foreign parts, but it is a mood point really, as the holes should be close---- and if they aren't, get a cheap tap and dye set and make your own , but listen to the REAL gurus, as they are about. . . . . . some of that stuff is way over my head too. . . . but interesting and fun for sure

I am wishing you the best of luck, I admire your motivation , research and passion that your putting into this, it speaks volumes about who acts ---and who lays around.
 
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cocogrower

cocogrower

Member
Thank you so much for comforting me in my ambivalence Sammy! I wish i could write and reply in my own language.. Think that i appear more uptight and formal in english than i would otherwise. Just want everybody to know that i'm really thankful for the space i've got here to straighten my thoughts out a bit. Like a scrap book that helps you out when your in doubt! :) back to planning!
 
cocogrower

cocogrower

Member
Ok. My current plan is to ad 3 630nm diodes and 1 660nm diode to the more flower oriented lights.

To the less flower oriented ones i ad 1 630 and one 660.

630's will be Cree XP-E2 100 l/w at 25C (620-630nm)

http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=152358675&uq=635391445738156912

660's will be Osram Oslon SSL (actually 640nm) (bothers me a bit that the viewing angle is 150 degrees)

http://www.digikey.se/product-detail/en/LH CP7P-2T3T-1/475-3008-1-ND/3608497

Will have to find matching "holders" them, and maybe look around a bit to see if there is a better option for the 660 chip. Or should i leave them put completely? Not everyone seem to agree that 660's are that beneficial to MJ.. Area 51 LED left them out completely in their cool white/630 light, claiming that most MJ plants didn't use that spectrum very well, according to their findings..
 
cocogrower

cocogrower

Member
Slight change of plans. Will buy additional leds from ac-rc.net instead of digikey. This is because they offer leds that are pre-soldered to stars. Same binnings but slightly cheaper. Will also ad one chip of royal blue to "veg-lights".

More questions... I do use google, but sometimes answers don't pop up the way you like..

#16 mm stars would probably make it easier for me to fit several extra chips. are they much worse than 20mm at leading the heat away?

#Would i need any thermal conductive grease if i fasten them by screwing? Also thinking about adhesive paste as an alternative since it maybe gives me more flexibility when it comes to mounting the chips.

Don't know if there is ant easy answers to my questions, and sorry for being a bit lazy with reading up..
 
Dr.Nonagon

Dr.Nonagon

Member
I have no idea if 16mm are better then 20mm.

You will need to use some sort of thermal interface material. If you want to screw the chips into place then use the paste. If you do not want to screw the chips then thermal adhesive can be used to, "glue" the chip to the heatsink. The LED may not come off again in working condition if bonded to metal.

If you power the 2530 at 350mA and choose to use a dimmer I'm not sure it will work properly. If the LED is dimmed down to 250mA and/or below 33v I'm worried that it may not start again when the timer goes on. The data sheets have no info below 300mA. You might want to ask around on this unless you already know. I have nothing below 500mA to test it.

I'm not sure if this driver for sale yet but it looks good, and I imagine expensive as hell.
 
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cocogrower

cocogrower

Member
Dr.Nonagon said:
I have no idea if 16mm are better then 20mm.

You will need to use some sort of thermal interface material. If you want to screw the chips into place then use the paste. If you do not want to screw the chips then thermal adhesive can be used to, "glue" the chip to the heatsink. The LED may not come off again in working condition if bonded to metal.

If you power the 2530 at 350mA and choose to use a dimmer I'm not sure it will work properly. If the LED is dimmed down to 250mA and/or below 33v I'm worried that it may not start again when the timer goes on. The data sheets have no info below 300mA. You might want to ask around on this unless you already know. I have nothing below 500mA to test it.

I'm not sure if this driver for sale yet but it looks good, and I imagine expensive as hell.
Click to expand...

Thank's Nonagon for straightening out a few more of the question marks that keeps popping up along the way!

Will probably go for paste and screws, having the flexibility to move things around is worth a lot in my book.

Just to make sure i understand what you are saying. Do you mean that the dimming causes the the problem, or the low current by itself? I know that cxa3070 can be driven at 300mA thats no proof that it would work for 2530, but maybe it's a clue..

It think that i will be more interested in dimming over 350mA than below.. So should probably go for a 700 mA driver and dim it down..

I looked at those driver when you first posted about them. They look awesome, but couldn't understand where to buy them.. (I do most of this "work" very late at night so i'm sometimes a bit "slow".) But will to find a seller again!

A dimmable driver that seems nice is this one: https://www.meanwell-web.com/product_info.php/products_id/HLG-185H-C700A

It's pretty expensive. But with the high voltage (scary), 2 drivers should be able to drive all my lights. According to a guy at another forums that has a similar project going, it should be 94% efficient efficient @ 700mA and 92% when dimmed.. (have to read the datasheet for myself) Very good value for the buck, if true.. It would have been nice to have the ability to dim the cobs individually. But that would mean more $$$ and wiring..

One other option i've been thinking about is four of these: http://ac-rc.net/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_35&products_id=67.

I'de have to hook two lights in parallel to each driver, in order to lower the amp instead of voltage (did i misunderstand this?) If this is true i should have four drivers that dims from 150-525 mA (it's this range i'd like to be within) Guess these drivers not only are less efficient, but also of much worse quality then the mean wells linked above..

And forgot to mention: I received the cobs today! Digikey has really fast shipping!
 
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cocogrower

cocogrower

Member
That driver looks sweet Nongon! And very easy to hook up to cobs, no need for serial or parallel wiring! Just wish it had four channels instead of three, so i could get away with buying two of them!
 
cocogrower

cocogrower

Member
tenthirty said:
http://www.inventronics-co.com/cplb.aspx?c_kind=2&c_kind2=29&c_kind3=41

You can parallel the outputs to get the correct voltages to drive the 3070's at 1400ma.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input tenthirty! I have 8 2530's and want to power then @ 300-700 mA, but doesn't really matter.. looks like those drivers have four channels and are available in a lot of different constant currents, so i wouldn't have to connect in parallel or or in series if i used 2 of them.

All distributors seem to lack online pricing though.. It's a shame cause they look like good quality! And efficiency around 91% is good!
 
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