10 min $10 DIY aerated compost tea ACT brewer

[Applesauce]

Sweetwater diffusers:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=23555

Microbeman talks about these on his website.

 

[gram101]

how do you make the air pump reverse the air flow?
i have the tube placed at the bottom of an airlift but it's just blowing bubbles and not pulling up through the air lift.

 

[gram101]

i'm using a pump with 0.7 CFM power and trying to brew 1 gallon teas.

 

[gram101]

the brass knobs on the pump fit a 1/4 tube, i have the 1/4 tube but i'll upgrade to a bigger size tomorrow.

 

[gram101]

I moved up to the 5/16s and its working fine now. Thanks MM.

 

[Applesauce]

I figured there was ~50$ US in this rig (not including air pump). Went ahead and did a price breakdown for ya guys and gals. As follows: One stop shop at Home Depot (air pump purchased seperately)
20Gal "Roughneck" trashcan: 14$
1" PVC ball valve: 4$ ( I used a bushing to keep this valve when I upgraded to 1.25" PVC)
2" ABS shower drain: 4$
10 ft. roll of 7/8 OD 5/8 ID braided Vinyl tubing : 17$ (most expensive item)
10ft 1.25" PVC pipe : 5$ (they only have thickwall at my HD, I actually got some thinwall at another local Hardware store)
1.25" PVC T-fitting x2 : 2.5$
1.25" PVC 90* elbow : 1$
1.25" PVC 45* elbow : 1$
2" x 1.25" PVC bushing : 1.25$ (goes into ABS drain and is glued into T fitting)
1.25"x1" PVC bushing : 1$ (as mentioned between T and ball valve, uneccesary if you just get a 1.25" ball valve)
1.25" x3/4"(FPT) PVC bushing : 1$ (T fitting to air hose)
5/8" ID barb fitting to 3/4" (MPT) PVC : 0$ (included with air pump)
PVC Glue : 0$ ( already had this, and used only a tiny bit on the one fitting. would cost another ~5$ or so)

Total Material cost (before tax) ~51.75$ so right around 55$ after tax. Plus my sweet pump was ~250$ bringing me up to a total ~305$. An Eco Plus 3 would actually move a little more air than this fancy pump and would only cost 40-50$ depending where ya get it.
That means you could build this unit for ~100$ materials. I'm really happy with this silent pump so far though and hopefully it will last longer in my very dry climate, which wrecks diaphragm pumps as I understand. After 1.5yrs brewing often my Old Eco-plus diaphragm pump sounded horrible, you could literally feel it vibrating from across the house too. I'm gonna pull it open when I get a chance to see how the internals look. might just need a new diaphragm/tune-up.

Tools used: Hack saw (for cutting pipe), Dremel tool (for cutting holes), Sandpaper (for smoothing cut PVC and also finishing holes) Thats IT.

Props to the OP for getting this rad thread going and MAD PROPS to MicrobeMan for his vast professional knowledge sharing and advising to all us amateurs.

Happy brewing Everyone!!

I am copying this design as I had most of these pieces. The one I can't find in big box stores is 1.25" x3/4"(FPT) PVC bushing : 1$ (T fitting to air hose.

The only bushings I can find in this size are threaded on the 1.25" side instead of slip.

Also if you are still around gOurd^jr, what did you mean about changing the distance between the air intake as per microbeman's suggestion? I have searched through this thread a few times and remember seeing this exchange but can't find anything now. I assume it was in reference to alternating dissolved oxygen levels by manipulating the design?

 

[JayTrinity]

any one have ideas about this 30 gallon bio diesel tank?
http://www.dudadiesel.com/choose_item.php?id=ct30

I can haz for $400 with stand shipped.

 

[h.h.]

any one have ideas about this 30 gallon bio diesel tank?
http://www.dudadiesel.com/choose_item.php?id=ct30

I can haz for $400 with stand shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/35-gallon-c...139?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c301dfdab

 

[howske]

hi guys after reading microbeorganics page im inspired to try and build my first 5 gallon compost brewer, basically trying to build something like the KIS 5 gallon brewer. I would buy it but i live in AUS, so i have decided to go with HiBlow Pump my question is will the HP 20 which pushes 18LPM be sufficient ? next one up would be the HP 40 which pushes 40 LPM.
and another question is i like the Circular tubing that fits inside the KIS 5 gallon brewer my question is what kind of tubing should i be looking for? just poly irrigation pipe ?, on MM's page he recommends PVC pipe with Elbow connections to make a Hexagon kind of shape but i much rather a single circular tubing at the bottom of the bucket like the KIS design.. so how can i get that shape, I'm just thinking to get 1\2 inch pipe and a hair dryer and just bend the pipe with heat and have an end plug.. thanks for any input just trying to get it right the first time before completing the shopping thanks guys

 

[Microbeman]

hi guys after reading microbeorganics page im inspired to try and build my first 5 gallon compost brewer, basically trying to build something like the KIS 5 gallon brewer. I would buy it but i live in AUS, so i have decided to go with HiBlow Pump my question is will the HP 20 which pushes 18LPM be sufficient ? next one up would be the HP 40 which pushes 40 LPM.
and another question is i like the Circular tubing that fits inside the KIS 5 gallon brewer my question is what kind of tubing should i be looking for? just poly irrigation pipe ?, on MM's page he recommends PVC pipe with Elbow connections to make a Hexagon kind of shape but i much rather a single circular tubing at the bottom of the bucket like the KIS design.. so how can i get that shape, I'm just thinking to get 1\2 inch pipe and a hair dryer and just bend the pipe with heat and have an end plug.. thanks for any input just trying to get it right the first time before completing the shopping thanks guys

http://www.onlineconversion.com/flow_rate_volume.htm conversion made easy.

 

[howske]

Thanks MM just did the conversion from lpm to cfm and the hp 20 is more than sufficient, will buy the air pump this week, and then get hosing and pipes to fit the bucket and pump, thanks again

 

[Microbeman]

Yup. good for almost 8 gallons.

 

[howske]

pretty much have completed my 5 gallon brewer,a big thanks to microbe organics for laying out all the info needed, maybe i am over thinking it but I'm paranoid that there is not enough dissolved oxygen, i know after reading microbes page that above 6ppm is optimal, i just looked at the price for a meter and Dam ! that is very expensive. i will try and upload some pics,

 

[Microbeman]

Howske;

Looks good. If you let your nose guide you, you should be okay. If it goes too anaerobic it will smell rotten; a good smell is earthy or like mushrooms; if you smell molasses or other food too strongly then brew a little longer.

 

[shopkin]

You could increase the through-put and density with oxygen injection. There is hardware to optimize the efficiency of pure oxygen diffusion in water.

My question is why would you bother to make the tea and build an aquatic microbial community and then dump it on terrestrial plants and soil? Some organisms can live in both environments, but many cannot. There are rotifers and fungi in nutrient-rich water and there are rotifers and fungi in nutrient-rich soil. But, for the most part, they are different species.

Why not just work the nutrient substrate into moist soil and convert the nutrients to soil microbes directly instead of aquatic microbes (many of whom will be lost when the tea is applied to soil)? Aquatic microbes that cannot survive in soil will break down and become a nutrient source themselves. But 90% of their mass is lost to respiration and only about 10% becomes new microbial biomass. Seems like a waste unless the nutrient source is an animal protein that would attract vermin.

BTW, some seaweed extracts are fungicidal or bactericidal so it should be carefully assayed before you go crazy with it.

 

[howske]

We are not trying to introduce new species .. The bacteria and fungi that we are multiplying in our brewers are already present in our soil, we are just using worm castings / compost which contain beneficial bacteria / fungi ( soil species ) . And then multiplying these bacteria / fungi in our brewers by adding food ( molasses ) and by keeping an aerobic environment over a 24 - 48 hour period, We then apply our tea which now contain a huge amount of good bacteria and fungi. I don't really follow you when you say covert nutrients into microbes .. The organic nutrients in our soil are not available to our plants as they first have to be broken down buy the bacteria and fungi in our soil which then make them available for our plants to uptake .. So it kind of makes sense to be adding good bacteria and fungi to our soil.

 

[Microbeman]

You could increase the through-put and density with oxygen injection. There is hardware to optimize the efficiency of pure oxygen diffusion in water.

My question is why would you bother to make the tea and build an aquatic microbial community and then dump it on terrestrial plants and soil? Some organisms can live in both environments, but many cannot. There are rotifers and fungi in nutrient-rich water and there are rotifers and fungi in nutrient-rich soil. But, for the most part, they are different species.

Why not just work the nutrient substrate into moist soil and convert the nutrients to soil microbes directly instead of aquatic microbes (many of whom will be lost when the tea is applied to soil)? Aquatic microbes that cannot survive in soil will break down and become a nutrient source themselves. But 90% of their mass is lost to respiration and only about 10% becomes new microbial biomass. Seems like a waste unless the nutrient source is an animal protein that would attract vermin.

BTW, some seaweed extracts are fungicidal or bactericidal so it should be carefully assayed before you go crazy with it.

As pointed out the microorganisms are extracted from compost or vermicompost and multiplied in an aerated liquid. This does not make them aquatic species, however most species of bacteria/archaea are interchangeable > soil < fresh water. Soil microbes for the most part are active in tiny pools of water held in the soil aggregate. The reason for making a microbial extrapolation rather than using straight compost is to 1/ accelerate the process Or
2/ use less compost Or/and 3/ fight pathogens.

But 90% of their mass is lost to respiration and only about 10% becomes new microbial biomass. Seems like a waste unless the nutrient source is an animal protein that would attract vermin.

Makes no sense.

 

[shopkin]

Sorry, but no. Aquatic microbial communities and terrestrial microbial communities are not the same.

An important advantage of using compost is that the nutrients are mineralized and made available to plants slowly, thus avoiding the boom-and-bust (excess/deficit) cycles when using inorganic nutrients. What is the advantage of screwing around with such an elegant system by trying to create a sudden burst of mineralization?

The standing crop of microbes in the soil cannot be permanently enhanced by adding a slug of tea. First, there is the problem of aquatic versus terrestrial as noted above. Second, and more importantly, the standing crop of microbes and community structure is what it is for a reason. It is the steady state microbial biomass the ecosystem is able to sustain based on the environmental conditions.

Sorry you thought I did not make sense. I could have been more clear... to wit... Only a fraction of the energy available at one trophic level is transferred to the next trophic level. In this case, it is terrestrial microbes consuming the dying microbes added with the tea. The rule of thumb is 10%.

I would like to believe that there is some benefit to ACT brewing. Unfortunately, it makes no sense and can only disrupt the organic soil ecosystem around our plants. Dr. Chalker-Scott summed it up much better than I can when she said the bottom line is:

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Composted mulch has been documented to suppress disease through a variety of methods​

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Non-aerated compost teas may be useful in suppressing some pathogens on some plants​

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Aerated compost teas have no scientifically documented effect as pathogen suppressors​

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Overuse and runoff of compost teas could conceivably contribute to water pollution​

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There is no “silver bullet” for plant health problems caused by poor soil health and improper plant selection and management.
http://puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda chalker-scott/Horticultural Myths_files/Myths/Compost tea again.pdf​

 

[Microbeman]

Sorry, but no. Aquatic microbial communities and terrestrial microbial communities are not the same.

First I guess you need to learn how to read. I said there were some (most found in compost) cross over species amongst bacteria and archaea. This is an easily confirmed fact. I also pointed out that the microorganisms were extracted from compost or vermicompost. If in your mind, this makes them aquatic, sorry I will not be able to help you with that.

An important advantage of using compost is that the nutrients are mineralized and made available to plants slowly, thus avoiding the boom-and-bust (excess/deficit) cycles when using inorganic nutrients. What is the advantage of screwing around with such an elegant system by trying to create a sudden burst of mineralization?

For the same reason which one might use any amendment, desiring to bring about rapid change. e.g. botanical liquids, molasses, vermicompost slurry. Why does one water a plant?

The standing crop of microbes in the soil cannot be permanently enhanced by adding a slug of tea. First, there is the problem of aquatic versus terrestrial as noted above. Second, and more importantly, the standing crop of microbes and community structure is what it is for a reason. It is the steady state microbial biomass the ecosystem is able to sustain based on the environmental conditions.

This actually does and can take place, notwithstanding your ignorance regarding aquatic vs soil/compost organisms. It is especially applicable to transitional soils which have been deluged with chemicals. However, it does not occur with a slug but with patient repeated applications. I have observed this myself and recorded it via microscopy. One case in particular was astounding, where a severe case of erwinia was beaten over a 6 month period and the soil fertility increased so much during this period that the farmer gave up chemicals for good.

Sorry you thought I did not make sense. I could have been more clear... to wit... Only a fraction of the energy available at one trophic level is transferred to the next trophic level. In this case, it is terrestrial microbes consuming the dying microbes added with the tea. The rule of thumb is 10%

On the contrary when protozoa (flagellates & naked amoebae) consume bacteria/archaea they typically utilize 10 to 40% of the energy derived for sustenance and 90 to 60% is expelled in ionic form to the 'next level' which is usually at this point the plant. This is what mineralization is.

Linda has turned down all sorts of serious research and debate. Her and her colleague (can't place the name) have even turned down simple laid out for them steps to follow to run a proper study, including free equipment. I have around 200 peer reviewed studies showing the efficacy of both aerated and non-aerated microbial extrapolations, on my computer. It is absolutely true that non-aerated 'CT' is more effective to suppress fungal pathogens. I have stated this many times and have posted the supportive studies on sites which allow attachments larger than 1 MB. If you are quoting Chaulker-Scott, you might as well quote Ingham on the flip side of that extreme view.

The better research is coming out of some European universities and a few eastern US facilities. If you are really interested you will find out.

Anyone who refers to compost tea as a silver bullet is not being factual.

The reason I use airlifts to create my microbial extrapolations is because that is the number one established method in most laboratories for multiplying microbes. If I desired a solution without flagellates & naked amoebae I'd use a different method.

 

[Microbeman]

This could be of interest;

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3063352/

The emergent picture is that most putative freshwater lake
tribes identified in our phylogenetic study are found exclusively
in this biome. However, our results also point to considerable
variation across phyla and families, where some groups are
dominated by tribes with alternative native habitats. This alternative
habitat is most often terrestrial, which is consistent
with the dominant flow of water (and bacteria) from soils via
freshwater and then further into the oceans. The stronger
connection between the freshwater and terrestrial environments
also makes sense in light of the salinity difference between
lakes and marine habitats, which acts as an apparent
habitat and evolutionary barrier for microorganisms (128). The
absence of such a salinity barrier between the terrestrial and
freshwater biomes may allow a more extensive exchange of
microflora between these environments.