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Sealed CO2 Build

ceosam

Member
Ran the gas line in and now I'm sealing her up... How can I achieve max seal? AKA no smell leaking with neutral room pressure.

I have heard drywall, concrete floors, and even brick will premiate smell. How much?

My setup has half brick and half drywall walls, open concrete floors. I have just drywalled the open beams on the ceiling and have a pretty solid "box" room. I plan on oil kilz'ing everything (except floor) & putting a 40ml pond liner down on that.

Any OGs want to chime in with some sealing tricks? This is my first run with CO2 and cannot afford any leaks (for monetary & security purposes). Thanks
 

ceosam

Member
Yes, I know what is required for going sealed. Room specs are:

10x15
36k mr slim
Drizair 1200
Ares 4 NG burner with atlas 3
3- 4x8 trays
6x 1kw on adjustawings
 

Asslover

Member
Veteran
The reason i asked if you were cooling the room was because cooled room usually are under positive pressure. You mentioned neutral pressure, so i asked...
 

ceosam

Member
oh ok. I don't think mini split will cause positive pressure though, I could be wrong-- sorta why I made the thread ;)
 

Asslover

Member
Veteran
My mini split causes positive pressure. Both rooms with minis are positive pressure. One room more than the other because of size.
 
My mini split causes positive pressure. Both rooms with minis are positive pressure. One room more than the other because of size.

The only way a mini split could create positive pressure in a room would be if it was drawing in air from outside the room.

I didn't think mini splits did that...
 

Asslover

Member
Veteran
The air being blown around is whats causing it. It is slight, but i quickly found all my air leaks once i fired up the mini split and fans.
I literally went around the seams with a burning joint and watched the smoke get blown away where the holes were lol.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Black silicone caulk from Home Depot. Very little fumes [methanol, ammonia] for only about 24+ hours. I'd research the VOC's in the oil Kilz before using. Good luck. -granger
 

ceosam

Member
Black silicone caulk from Home Depot. Very little fumes [methanol, ammonia] for only about 24+ hours. I'd research the VOC's in the oil Kilz before using. Good luck. -granger

thanks for spotting in & the tip... ive read of many people using kilz, but if they arent, what are they using?

seems maybe you can kilz and then paint over it to avoid gassing?
 
Just a heads up, I'm running a 36k mr slim with about 6000 watts myself (9 600s and some floro veg lights).

Right now with summer temps, I'm having trouble cooling the room with all the lights on. With all the lights on canopy tops can get up to high 80s even like 90-91 in a few instances.

If I turn off 2 of the 600s the temps go back to high 70s... room is on the first floor of a house, not basement though.

Just thought I'd chime in.
 

ceosam

Member
I appreciate the info but that is some pretty terrible news! I ran this room with exhaust/no co2 last time and with roughly 6750w and it stayed pretty cool. My intake air was almost always 80* & I'm not in a basement either. Worst comes to worst I will dial down the dimmer but that is some crushing news.
 
Get a nice big carbon filter and a 10-12" fan and scrub the air in the room constantly. Much of the stink will come out of the room with you on your clothes and the supplies that come in and out (buckets, pots etc...). Trimming and drying has to be done in an equally sealed or scrubbed room. I run an ozone generator on a timer that floods the area outside the room when it's unoccupied.

Your room can be friggin air tight and a smelly strain will stink up the whole place as soon as the door is opened and you walk out smelling like a skunk!
 

ceosam

Member
Got a can150 and max12 already rolling in there. I am allergic so I always wear a body suit gloves and hair net for safety/convenience. I'm not so worried about the inside, but one of the walls is an outer wall on the street side and I cannot have any smell seeping out so I must be sure it is sealed and upremiable. I will always run the can150 but I will always have another small fan /scrubber setup for nighttime exhaust. I have heard this is good for the plants and I believe it will air out the place and reset the permiating process but that is just a theory.
 

coldcanna

Active member
Veteran
I used heavy duty block sealer on my concrete walls, the stuff is amazing. Rolls on extra thick and really fills into the pours that are inherent on bricks/ concrete block. Not sure if thats what you were referring to when you said Kilz. Also I second the caulking that Granger mentioned, every joint in the room. Do you have windows or any other openings in the room? If you had windows I'd take the trim off and apply spray foam in the gaps of the framing. If you need to caulk the windows use a silicon product as it expands more and won't cause stress on the glass. Also be sure to seal up electrical outlets in the walls, you can pull the face plate off and caulk around the edges of the box and the holes in the back where wires come through. I'd consider testing it before you get the girls in there too, load the room up with something potent like sulfur and seal it up... give it some time and carefully look for any smells escaping out to the street or other parts of the house.
 

ceosam

Member
Great info on the sulfur test. The brick walls are already painted with regular indoor paint so I'm not sure what would fill the pores like that but I will still be using a antimold sealer like kilz or something. Some windows in the room have: blinds (for stealth look), then R40 insulation, then plywood to fit snug in the square space with spray foam to seal the edge around the wood.
 

Asslover

Member
Veteran
Just a heads up, I'm running a 36k mr slim with about 6000 watts myself (9 600s and some floro veg lights).

Right now with summer temps, I'm having trouble cooling the room with all the lights on. With all the lights on canopy tops can get up to high 80s even like 90-91 in a few instances.

If I turn off 2 of the 600s the temps go back to high 70s... room is on the first floor of a house, not basement though.

Just thought I'd chime in.

Something ain't right, for sure. I'm down in Florida and one of my partners runs 6k watts uncooled lights (6x 1000 watter) in a 15x15 with a 36k btu Mr.Slim and he has no problem keeping the room temps at a steady 80, even when it's 98 outside...
 

Marshall

Member
Something ain't right, for sure. I'm down in Florida and one of my partners runs 6k watts uncooled lights (6x 1000 watter) in a 15x15 with a 36k btu Mr.Slim and he has no problem keeping the room temps at a steady 80, even when it's 98 outside...

There are lots of variables with heat load. Is your buddy in a basement or have lots of trees? Yes I know Florida is flat and basements are rare but I have seen them
 
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