How do you control the height of your plants

[AloeRuss]

So far it has been pain in my rectum.
All the pinching, supercroping (same thing) netting and LST.
I am still trying to form a failproof approach that work every time.
For this, I need to know all the rules that plants use to get bigger, but even then I am not there yet.

Could you please respond on how would you approach on controlling the height of 100+ plants, some of whom may be difficult to reach.

I am thinking of just spray a trellis net across the canopy and just keep tucking them in. Plus my tomato rings will help with LST as well.

Main problem is the quantity. I know I could control 10 or even 20, but a 100. Woohoo...

Thanks

 

[DunHav`nFun]

So far it has been pain in my rectum.
All the pinching, supercroping (same thing) netting and LST.
I am still trying to form a failproof approach that work every time.
For this, I need to know all the rules that plants use to get bigger, but even then I am not there yet.

Could you please respond on how would you approach on controlling the height of 100+ plants, some of whom may be difficult to reach.

I am thinking of just spray a trellis net across the canopy and just keep tucking them in. Plus my tomato rings will help with LST as well.

Main problem is the quantity. I know I could control 10 or even 20, but a 100. Woohoo...

Thanks

First off , how many plants per light and what size footprint each light`s coverage will be to create as perfect a canopy as possible per said each light`s footprint.....now....

Since mono-cropping`s not possible , each strain should be isolated in rows or groups under each light to learn their growth patterns before and after the flip by end of stretch....

Stretch is scientifically determined to be 40% of the flower cycle , so after let`s say Chem D that`s 10 week cycle , goes 4 weeks/28 days outta 70 , then the plants won`t grow any taller OR wider , and that`s when you truly learn a plant`s growth structure where each main lateral on each plant can be properly pruned of sucker branches and other lower debri for optimum swellage of the dominant limbs by end of cycle....and then....

You can determine how many weeks vegtime is required to fill in said footprint with X amounts of plants required to do it...and that`s under every light.....

Each plant will stretch more or less than the next strain , and maintaining the same height canopy with a trellis over all will be damn near impossible , plus cuts off access to the plants unless done in same strain rows as I stated above and that leaves walking room down each row and takes plant footprint away....

There are products to retard stretch , and the rule of thought is by introducing more phosphorous and less nitrogen right after pullin the trigger , that stretch will be reduced and flower onset will ensue faster , and then more N or micro , or whatever nitrogen source can be re-introduced in smaller increments after full swellage is in force to prevent premature yellowing off , and onset of plant senescence to allow the plants to swell as much as possible till end of cycle....regardless....

Many ways ta skin a mule...Just tryin ta help...

Good luck and....

Peace....DHF..........

 

[pasimito]

Hi. I think simplest method would be controling the light distance. More ligh closer to the plant less strech.

 

[drgr33nuk]

You can shorten stretch in the first few weeks of flower with a high dose of pk according to AN. See bud blood.

http://www.an-europe.com/advancepedia/bloom-enhancers/bud-blood.html

It's P/K 39/25 I think shooting powder from house & garden uses the same ratio although they don't recommend this. I'm not sure about the science here though I'm going by AN'S info and not my own experiences.

Hope this helps

 

[AloeRuss]

That helps.
Monster bloom could do the job.
But first, the stretch period lasts approximately first 4 weeks after the switch?
How about supercrop them as they get too tall. That could be sure and easy way to keep canopy even.
Yes, there Will be. But worst come to worst you keep them on for a few days longer. What do you guys think about the employment of high stress training?

 

[cannacultural]

I supercrop into flower and haven't had problems. It even encourages a little extra side shooting too, building slightly fuller buds (depending). Definitely a useful trick to manage the canopy into bloom if light bending/staking doesn't cut it. Don't be too brutal though, I try and take it easy on them after the first 2 weeks, rather than any heavy supercropping

 

[AloeRuss]

I do not have a lot of choice but a great opportunity to learn.
I have a garden of 100+ where owner didn't trim, crop, cut or did anything.
All ladies are in such a bad shape, they grew right into the lamps. He said that he does not care what will come of it and just asked me to finish this run as is.
So trim the bottom one supercrop is what i do to all of them right now. And they are 4 weeks into flower.

 

[AloeRuss]

I just finished super cropping 1 room with 250 in it. Here is before

 

[AloeRuss]

And after

 

[noyd666]

trimmed legs, looking a lot cleaner, hope you do well.

 

[LSWM]

Lose the hood and go vert. Frees up ~1-2 feet of vertical space.

 

[AloeRuss]

LSWM - if you have an eye on what is happening there and handle everything from the start, the setup is just perfect.

This room is 4 week into bloom. The stretch is finished for the most part.
Or at least I will be able to see anyone who sticks out.

I was finishing the last row today. It was the worst by any degree. He had fucking mice living in there.
I do not know if some plants will not make the cleaning but this is a great opportunity for me to test so many theories. 4 weeks in supercroping is the big one. I pushed those girls far past the limit.
I have 2 rooms left. 3 weeks and 2 weeks into bloom

 

[AloeRuss]

But gentleman. Actually the real question, how do you go about growing 100 plants within 6 1/2 feet height opening.
If they grow 3 times biger during the stretch, how small do you need them before you make switch.
I have never grew such a large numbers without help of some chemical that will stop them dead.
I realized that only pros can do this with such numbers.
Where can I learn all this? Please throw it at me! Thank you

 

[DunHav`nFun]

..

 

[drgr33nuk]

Just been sent a new product that claims to do this called switch by optic foliar. It's a two part spray

http://www.opticfoliar.com/products/switch

I have three sets if anyone wants to pay for postage I'll send them to you to try FOC if your willing to give me feedback on the product ?

PM me here if your interested. PS I'm in the UK so bear that in mind.

 

[zeke99]

You can attempt to control plant height, within genetic limits, by tightly controlling the grow room temperature and/or possibly by agitating the plants.

Now I haven't tried the latter, but you can read about it in the link below. The former is a fairly well known method.


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http://www.ag.auburn.edu/hort/landscape/temperature.html

Greenhouse Temperature
J. Raymond Kessler, Jr.

a practical relationship between plant height and day/night temperature. This relationship can be expressed as the difference in the day and night temperature, abbreviated DIF:

DIF = day temperature (DT) - night temperature (NT)

For example, DIF values of +10°, 0°, and -10°F are derived from 70°F DT - 60°F NT, 65°F DT- 65°F NT, and 60°F DT - 70°F NT, respectively.

The principle of DIF can be applied in the greenhouse to control plant height and reduce the need for chemical growth retardants.

– The primary effect of DIF is to influence internode elongation. A negative DIF may influence the biosynthesis of GA3 since spray applications of GA3 can cause normal internode elongation under negative DIF.

– Plant height can be decreased by decreasing the day temperature or increasing the night temperature or both. Achieve a close to zero or negative DIF. Conversely, to increase plant height, increase the day temperature or decrease the night temperature.

– The magnitude of the response to DIF is not the same across all DIF values. The increase in internode length as DIF increases (more positive) is greater than the decrease in internode length as DIF decrease (more negative).

– The difference in the day and night temperature determines internode length regardless of the absolute day or night temperature.

– DIF works best when plants are in a rapid stage of growth. Response to DIF is rapid, often as soon as 24 to 48 hours.

– Extremely negative DIF can have adverse affects on plants resulting in yellow foliage. If a negative DIF is applied for a short period and plants are returned to a positive DIF, green color usually returns to the leaves. However, young seedling treated for an extended period may remain yellow and stunted.

– DIF affects internode elongation, plant height, leaf orientation, shoot orientation, chlorophyll content, lateral branching, and petiole and flower stalk elongation.

Temperature Drop

During warm times of the year, dropping the day temperature close to the night temperature may not be possible throughout the day. Recent work has shown that a temperature drop or rise for 2-3 hours at the beginning or end of the light period has a strong affect on internode elongation. In the greenhouse a temperature drop is usually applied by turning on the fans and/or opening vents 20-30 min. before dawn then returning to a normal venting pattern 2-3 hours later. This sensitivity during specific points in the photoperiod may be related to endogenous rhythms.


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http://www.controlledenvironments.org/Growth_Chamber_Handbook/Plant_Growth_Chamber_Handbook.htm

Plant Growth Chamber Handbook
Edited by R.W. Langhans and T.W. Tibbitts

Chapter 6 - Air Movement - Robert J. Downs and Donald T. Krizek

Mechanical Stress

Numerous studies have been conducted on the effects of mechanical stress induced by shaking or rubbing the plant, or by subjecting plants to wind gusts, water sprays or sand blasts...

In a number of woody and herbaceous species, mechanical rubbing of the internodes caused cessation of stem growth within minutes of treatment; several days passed before normal growth resumed.

 

[RonSmooth]

The best thing to do would probably be to pick a strain that will work for your situation.

Or you could top the plants and train the rest of the branches to grow out instead of up. When a shoot is getting too tall, bend it and tie it down. Or pinch it- or whatever you do.

I tie, bend, pinch, prune, pull fans, take cuts and otherwise "stress" flowering plants. I have never done a side-by-side so I can't say for sure but I haven't had any major problems as a result.

I have never had a plant stretch like Sour Kush (RP). There are a total of 6 plants in a 3x3 tray under a 600w HPS. I can't see how light intensity would be a cause. I really like one long flowering pheno that more than quadrupled in size and had to be bent and tied down to even fit under the light.

As much as I love this particular plant, it isn't practical for my situation. I chose a short flowering pheno that is less stretchy.

 

[Firebrand]

This is interesting.

http://www.jazsprays.com/JAZ-Rose-Spray_p_8.html
http://www.gardeners.com/buy/jaz-rose-s ... 297RS.html
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=232520