Few questions I need answered, thanks!

[GrowBigOrGoHome]

1. Which tent size would be BEST for 2 regular strain marijuana plants using 1 x 400 watt hps/mh.

3x2 tent or 4x2 tent? (cant decide)

2. If I follow "LC's Organic Soil Mix" exactly to the tee, I SHOULDN'T have to worry about PH correct, since it's organic mix and what not?

3. On average, using LC's Organic Soil Mix, plus Compost tea/kelp, and 1x400 watt hps/mh, how much do you think I would pull from each plant?

 

[its trypp]

No one can tell you what you will get from each plant, because it depends on many many factors; veg time, strain, indica/sativa, method of training, etc, etc.

Aside from that I am not that experienced with organic grows, however; you should still concern yourself with PH and monitor it. The PH of the soil will effect the PH of the water, and since your nutrients are mainly brought in with its daily drink, lockout can still be a concern. Again I am not that experienced with organics, so perhaps someone can give a better explanation and correct anything I might have misspoken.

Also; go ahead and post your oganic questions in the organic forums, the people there are much more likely to be able to help lol.

As far as tent size; more room means easier to work with. Also means more room for your ladies to grow, meaning more bud end game. Anyhow hope this was helpful. Cheers. :3

 

[GrowBigOrGoHome]

No one can tell you what you will get from each plant, because it depends on many many factors; veg time, strain, indica/sativa, method of training, etc, etc.

Aside from that I am not that experienced with organic grows, however; you should still concern yourself with PH and monitor it. The PH of the soil will effect the PH of the water, and since your nutrients are mainly brought in with its daily drink, lockout can still be a concern. Again I am not that experienced with organics, so perhaps someone can give a better explanation and correct anything I might have misspoken.

Also; go ahead and post your oganic questions in the organic forums, the people there are much more likely to be able to help lol.

As far as tent size; more room means easier to work with. Also means more room for your ladies to grow, meaning more bud end game. Anyhow hope this was helpful. Cheers. :3

thanks, would you think a 4x2 tent would be a little to big tho and the light wouldn't penetrate as good with a slightly smaller tent 3x2?

 

[GrowBigOrGoHome]

No one can tell you what you will get from each plant, because it depends on many many factors; veg time, strain, indica/sativa, method of training, etc, etc.

Aside from that I am not that experienced with organic grows, however; you should still concern yourself with PH and monitor it. The PH of the soil will effect the PH of the water, and since your nutrients are mainly brought in with its daily drink, lockout can still be a concern. Again I am not that experienced with organics, so perhaps someone can give a better explanation and correct anything I might have misspoken.

Also; go ahead and post your oganic questions in the organic forums, the people there are much more likely to be able to help lol.

As far as tent size; more room means easier to work with. Also means more room for your ladies to grow, meaning more bud end game. Anyhow hope this was helpful. Cheers. :3

Also, when I went to the organic section and asked about PH in organic LC soil mix grow and recipe tea/kelp, i was laughed at and said ph didn't matter in organic grow. so im confused

 

[trichrider]

organic grows naturally equalize PH.

you must recognize the quantities and percentages of nutrient profile and adjust accordingly.

LC's mix should be balanced nicely.

400 watt mh is capable of covering that 4' footprint, 600 much better, but 400 will work fine.

you must not smoke your plant before harvest...(don't count your chickens)

read all you can find on plant biology/physiology, not just cannabis, and good luck.

 

[its trypp]

organic grows naturally equalize PH.

you must recognize the quantities and percentages of nutrient profile and adjust accordingly.

LC's mix should be balanced nicely.

400 watt mh is capable of covering that 4' footprint, 600 much better, but 400 will work fine.

you must not smoke your plant before harvest...(don't count your chickens)

read all you can find on plant biology/physiology, not just cannabis, and good luck.

Thanks, as I said I wasn't very knowledgeable about organics so was just going off what made sense to me lol. (I mean if you don't mix it right and there is too much of x and not enough of y I would assume ph as well as nutrients themselves would differ. Apparently I was wrong )

 

[trichrider]

wait no!
you weren't wrong, totally.
if you add too much of one it could harm uptake of another, but not because of PH.
your mix should be homogenous...mixed well. it takes very little to produce a lot.
don't worry so much about PH if you're organic, worry more that your nutrients are balanced...and that's why you follow LC's recipe.

 

[growsjoe1]

trichrider has your back. Lavender Cowboy's Mix has been around a long time. A proven water only soil mix. The great thing about the mix is, the nitrogen (blood) and potassium (kelp) will be almost used up by late flowering and the phosphorous (bone) will be strong until the end.

peace Joe

 

[its trypp]

Well not about the nutrient lockouts, i wasnt. But misguided a bit on the PH portion of my thoughts. Lockouts if mixed improperly could still happen but yeah. Anyhow good luck with your organic grow :3

 

[Luther Burbank]

People misreading the living soil guys have misunderstood their view that pH doesn't matter in organic mixes or that it's some bogeyman. pH isn't a thing.It's a function of hydrogen exchange and a representation of your soils physical and chemical makeup. Organic mixes tend to help buffer pH by allowing soil life to flourish. It is a misconception that organic *equalizes* pH. If your mix is properly made, pH shouldn't be a concern, but if you over saturate your soil with Ca or S or Mg or any other cation you're going to have a pH that's off because you've altered its chemical composition. It's a representation of what your soil is, not another part of the soil to independently deal with. I think we should embrace all tools, and using pH as a gauge for balancing a soil mix should be part of that.

 

[its trypp]

People misreading the living soil guys have misunderstood their view that pH doesn't matter in organic mixes or that it's some bogeyman. pH isn't a thing.It's a function of hydrogen exchange and a representation of your soils physical and chemical makeup. Organic mixes tend to help buffer pH by allowing soil life to flourish. It is a misconception that organic *equalizes* pH. If your mix is properly made, pH shouldn't be a concern, but if you over saturate your soil with Ca or S or Mg or any other cation you're going to have a pH that's off because you've altered its chemical composition. It's a representation of what your soil is, not another part of the soil to independently deal with. I think we should embrace all tools, and using pH as a gauge for balancing a soil mix should be part of that.

Then doesn't that actually make what I originally said right? That adding too much of a not enough of b and missing c could all lead to imbalance the PH as well?

 

[Luther Burbank]

Oof I should just address OPs question too. GrowBig - go for the 4x2, with 400w you'll have 50w/sq ft which is good. You shouldn't have to worry about pH with LCs mix but I urge you to find coot's old mix that used neem and crab meal. I have used both and find the latter superior.

If the pH of your water is really off (say your water is super high in Fe (iron) or Ca (Calcium), having organic soil will not solve the issue. It can buffer and mitigate the damage far better than a soilless or chem mix because of the benefits of organic matter though.

As for your yield shoot for 1g a watt, so try for 400g out of that tent. I've friends who also estimate new spaces by figuring 'an ounce for each gallon of soil' but am unsure of that one.

Trypp: It shouldn't happen if you follow tested soil mixes or get soil testing done and amend wisely. I rarely see overdoses of trace minerals in soil mixes but theorerically yes. It's much more likely to happen with macronutrients though, and it depends on the soil's cation exchange capacity. Say you have an imaginary soil with ten capacity sites and a soil with a hundred capacity sites. Let's say you have five Calcium atoms to throw in those sites. For the soil with ten sites you've taken 50% of the exchange capacity, hugely altering its makeup. For the hole with a hundred however you've only taken up 5% of the total capacity, thus altering it much less. This ties in to why organic matter, with its high cec, helps buffer.

Tl;Dr make your soil mix right and have good water and you don't have to worry about testing for pH in organic grows. I don't pH test except when running soil tests for beds at the start of the year or to test a new soil mix.

 

[its trypp]

Oof I should just address OPs question too. GrowBig - go for the 4x2, with 400w you'll have 50w/sq ft which is good. You shouldn't have to worry about pH with LCs mix but I urge you to find coot's old mix that used neem and crab meal. I have used both and find the latter superior.

If the pH of your water is really off (say your water is super high in Fe (iron) or Ca (Calcium), having organic soil will not solve the issue. It can buffer and mitigate the damage far better than a soilless or chem mix because of the benefits of organic matter though.

As for your yield shoot for 1g a watt, so try for 400g out of that tent. I've friends who also estimate new spaces by figuring 'an ounce for each gallon of soil' but am unsure of that one.

Trypp: It shouldn't happen if you follow tested soil mixes or get soil testing done and amend wisely. I rarely see overdoses of trace minerals in soil mixes but theorerically yes. It's much more likely to happen with macronutrients though, and it depends on the soil's cation exchange capacity. Say you have an imaginary soil with ten capacity sites and a soil with a hundred capacity sites. Let's say you have five Calcium atoms to throw in those sites. For the soil with ten sites you've taken 50% of the exchange capacity, hugely altering its makeup. For the hole with a hundred however you've only taken up 5% of the total capacity, thus altering it much less. This ties in to why organic matter, with its high cec, helps buffer.

Tl;Dr make your soil mix right and have good water and you don't have to worry about testing for pH in organic grows. I don't pH test except when running soil tests for beds at the start of the year or to test a new soil mix.

Awesome information. thanks, honestly! But it really makes me appreciate the simplicity in the hydro that I am doing. Essentially I know it's the same concept, but it feels slightly different without having a medium if that makes sense.

 

[Luther Burbank]

They're very different beasts and organic users don't understand the knowledge of individual nutrients requirements experienced hydrogrowers have. That said I believe my job is easier with organic soil. Plants are more resilient to pest issues and disease, and that takes a lot of work out.

 

[GrowBigOrGoHome]

thanks luther!, I'm going to check into that other mix..if i can find a link 2 it.

question before i let you go...are there any consequences for growing female plants to close 2 each other?

I'm just wondering bc I see smokeys grow and he has a small ass set up and has a shit load of autoflowers in his box and there right next 2 each other.. just curious.

 

[Luther Burbank]

I've known many people who grow multiple plants in one container.