DOOMED GROW, PLEASE HELP!

[DoubleDDsNuggs]

This is what really sold me on why I think it's something like fusarium. the last line was the kicker. from wiki: Fusarium oxysporum generally produces symptoms such as wilting, chlorosis, necrosis, premature leaf drop, browning of the vascular system, stunting, and damping-off. The most important of these is vascular wilt.[3] Fusarium wilt starts out looking like vein clearing on the younger leaves and drooping of the older lower leaves, followed by stunting of the plant, yellowing of the lower leaves, defoliation, marginal necrosis and death of the plant. On older plants, symptoms are more distinct between the blossoming and fruit maturation stages.[4]

I hope it's not this as it seems like the plant might not recover.

 

[ornot2p]

wow guys, it looks like this is a big f*ck up! the stuff ive read around about fusarium and other fungae is pretty nasty. seems like there is not much it can be done, right? i was considering to get some germicide lights, has anyone tried em out?

thanx for the input! appreciate that.

peas!

 

[ornot2p]

ok, got myself an osram T5 hns ho germicide tube. ill install it under my reflectors and turn it on every 8hours for 3 minutes. i just hope for the best.

ill let you know of any progress.

peas,

ornot2p

 

[intotheunknown]

it may be a disease, it may not be.

but why are we not starting here with the basics people?
how do you know his soil is good? what and how much of what is correct?

the simple answer is usually the right one, start with basics.

I always see these type of threads, and you name it, everybody throws out these crazy things like broad mites and this and that, while at the same time overlooking the simple things. like the basics.

OP hasnt yet to have a good grow hes stating, so theres obviously something wrong with the BASICS.

make sure your soil is good, your "feeding" is correct and your environment is right.

 

[ornot2p]

yeah @intotgeunknown, totally agree with going back to basics. i have had great grows in the previous location, using pretty much the same methods. to be honest i was way sloppier in the previous site and still had good crops. ever since i moved to this new location ( specially the garage thing) im having poor results and id say the same problem regardless of growing method/ medium. the crazy fungae hypothesis adds up more or less. what bugs me is the subit change in the overall look of the plants as soon as i put them under hps lighting. its really like 2-3 days later.

 

[intotheunknown]

so what exactly has changed?

new location, but the same house?

or a completely different house/area?

 

[ornot2p]

its the neighboring house of the previous site. but this time i have no stealthy space outdoors, so i must rely on a garage. the garage walls are against the soil, which favours some moisture to permiate through the walls into the garage.

 

[Granger2]

I agree with scoping for Broad Mites and checking for RA's in the medium. I'm leaning toward root problems. That could be RA's, but I have to say that I really see your medium as problematic.

A good rule of thumb is to use an amount of perlite equal to the volume of compost, EWC, etc. Vermiculite mainly holds moisture when the medium is wet. Perlite holds air when the medium is wet. I'm not talking about drainage [water running thru the medium]. I'm sure your mix drains OK. I'm talking about the medium going thru periods holding little air. Perfect set up for fungal problems. You'd be well off to replace the vermiculite in you mix with perlite.

Another thing. Where does your runoff go? Are your plants sitting is the runoff after watering? More prime conditions for fungal problems. When you put the plants outdoors, do they sit in runoff?

What's the RH in your garage.

If I were to go after a deficiency, I'd investigate S and Bo. Good luck. -granger

 

[ornot2p]

tks for the input granger! today ill be scoping the soil and maybe going through an autopsy to check on the roots. i agree about the perlite/ vermiculite difference there. will try to get my hands on it. the pots sit on a clay pellet bed and dont really touch the medium, but surely that might not be such a great enviromental practice. ill get precise readings for temp and rh. i did ffoliar feed S without much luck. the Bo is in my foliar spray but maybe not in the right ammount...

 

[DoubleDDsNuggs]

How often are you watering? does the soil get dried out enough before? how are you storing your soil? are you using any beneficial innoculants? whats the humidity in the room? are there filters on your air vents?

something is going on that is making the environment friendly to fungus/mold issues. if it's mites, hold a white piece of paper under the leaves and tap the leaf. if you see black dots crawling on the paper, mites just fell off the bottoms of your leaves. worked for me on my aunt's plants. you will need a magnifier to check for root aphids i believe. never had to deal with those thank god.

I'm also not sure how much that light will help you. if you bought it from a store that allows returns, i would get your $$ back and buy some new dirt instead. but that's just me and I'm a newb.

 

[Tonygreen]

Your PH is simply fucked up. Yer adding too much stuff without testing. Your mix is more of a hydro mix it seems like... which would do better with a lower ph. Your PH ranges you mention are good for dirt but you are not in dirt.

We need a real run off reading here.

 

[Granger2]

You can check for RA's by laying 1" thick potato slices on your medium. Check them everyday and if you have RA's, you'll start seeing them before long. A wide low power magnifying glass is best. They go back into the medium quickly. I really think it's a root problem, not nutes. You could give a stiff mix of Botanicare AquaShield or the new Hydrogard. Or you could give them water/nutes with 3 Tbl/gal of 3% Peroxide for 2 or 3 waterings, then inoculate with tea or something like Great White or similar next feeding after you stop giving them Peroxide. Good Luck. -granger

 

[Tonygreen]

Ya the roots aint workin cuz the PH is wacked. It helped you told us what you wee putting in but we dont know whats coming out. What PH is your aquarium water? Tilapia prefer 7-8ph I see. You say you know the "water is about right". If that aquarium water ph is 7-8 which is about right for tilapia, its bad for cannabis... Even worse since your growing medium is not soil and contains no buffers that good soil naturally has. You are using a much more hydro style grow medium, you need to get your PH lower bro and be able to control it well.

 

[RetroGrow]

G`day O2P

The part where you say the environment is damp is the clue .
I have just spent a few months diagnosing my garden which looked very similar to yours .
Some kind of mold or fungi at work is my call . Esp if you don`t see any pests .

I had a root disease . The same over fed look,followed by yellowing looking like Cal Mag def . And burnt tips on the new growth .

Check the roots . The plants grow kinda ok in vegg .Other than looking over dosed on N . Even though I was feeding very low doses of nutes .
But when pushed to flower they get sickly .

@ Retro

I tried Aspirin . I tried H2O2 didn`t solve the problem .

Thanks for sharin

EB

Try "Aquashield" for root problems. The beneficial bacteria will overwhelm the bad bacteria. Aspirin will not negate fungal infections, but it will boost plants immune system against many pathogens. Aquashield>H2O2, IMO, for these type problems. Might not be available where you are.

 

[ornot2p]

updates

updates

okay, here we go for some updates.

READINGS
– RH min 36% max 73%
– TEMP min 22.7ºC max 31.7ºC
– pH Ive flushed the pots with 7.0 PH water and the run off read 7.0
Then Ive made a solution of 6.0 and added chelated Iron. Ive flushed all the pots till the run off read 6.0. (I use pH strips, so i dont have a precise reading on the decimals there. were working on getting a more precise reading soon).

As I type the plants that started this thread are in really bad shape. Chlorosis developed further, with leaves d(r)ying out slowly. Ill post some pictures below. Ive checked them for RA's but didnt get anything conclusive so far. The roots seemed fine, didnt show signs of rot, discoloration, stains etc. they were whitish and looked normal. Ill have to borrow a better scope to be sure. Ive put in the potato trap, hope it grabs some evidence if anything at all.

The plants that went in just 2 days ago already show some cholorosis/ yellowing of the leaves. Just like the previous batch it starts in the newer growth and should evolve fast. It looks like Iron def, Id guess the pH 6.0 flush w/ added Iron should show some effect soon if there really isnt anything wrong with the roots.

Ill keep yall updated!

 

[DoubleDDsNuggs]

after seeing those, I would has to change my thinking on what's wrong. that's a nute issue. I don't understand organic teas and how to add stuff to get certain NPK ratios but I'm guessing potassium. my root rot leaves didn't look like that. they would turn yellow like autumn before getting crunchy. you still have green with some nute burning. Maybe the senior members have some ideas? Fox Farms makes a product called Boomerang that really helped while I was battling my root problems. it's really just a very low nute feeding until you see signs of new growth.

 

[vapor]

is there something up with your water?

 

[Tonygreen]

What is the PH of your Tilapia tank bro.

 

[ornot2p]

UPDATE 2

UPDATE 2

hey guys, sorry, no pH readings yet. Im getting an electronic tester and will have more precise readings tomorrow.

Overall the plants kept on dying. Leaves burned on the edges and getting papery by the day.

The younger plants that went in last week kept on getting more yellow, with the look of Iron def. No signs of permanent leaf damage yet.

I went forward with the UVC idea and installed a 15W tube under the HPS hood. It goes off for 2 minutes every 8 hours.

I found a wasp buzzing around the plants and took a picture. what do you think? please let me know if you find it might be hazardous. I dont think she could be responsible for all this mess.

I still have hope.

peace,

o2p

 

[ornot2p]

...continue

...continue

...just look how the problem affects the new growth. leaves are pale green and going paper white. would anyone know how long after adding lower pH solution I should see the results?