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Root Aphids I assume...

jcom

Member
The Bayer appears to have put the serious hurt on these little fuckers. Day 1 after treatment showed no signs of life, just carcases. Day 2, we saw a couple of flyers which could have been fungus gnats, but it drove home the point that 3 - 4 treatments will be needed to assure complete anihilation. Day 3, there were no signs of life and we did a nutrient feeding. Second round of Bayer planned for sometime next week. After comparing Bayer Citrus & Vegetable vs. Tree and Shrub, the only difference appears to be the amount of imidicloprid. C&V is 0.23% and T&S is about 2.75%. Instead of the 50ml per gallon we did with the C&V, we are simply going to dilute the T&S at 7ml per gallon to achieve the approximately same amount. The T&S was $4 more at Home Depot, but a single bottle of T&S will allow us to do the remaining 3 treatments and we will likely have some left over.
 
S

SeaMaiden

Are you treating just the plants, or the whole growing area? I feel that it's key given the flyers and all.
 

jcom

Member
Update: Did 2nd Bayer Citrus & Vegetable treatment yesterday. Have not seen any crawlers or flyers for the last 4 - 5 days and there are no new flyers on any of our sticky traps. Rather than a Bayer only flush of our coco, we incorporated the Bayer into our feeding this time since there were no ill effects on the plants from the Bayer alone. Did 10minute runs in our bubblers and ebb/flow table. We plan to do a 3rd and final treatment in another week. So far, we are believers in Bayer.

Note: We searched the local Ace, Home Depot, and Wal-Mart for Bayer Tree & Shrub, but could not find any (we did find Tree & Shrub with feed, but obviously didn't want to use it since it has unknown nutrients added). The Tree & Shrub appears to have the same ingredients as the Citrus, but the level of Imidicloprid amount is nearly 7 times that of the Citrus. We had planned to run the Tree & Shrub at 1/7th (7ml/gallon) the amount of the Citrus (50ml/gallon) had we found some. We are likely going to order a gallon of the Tree & Shrub online somewhere to have on hand for any future needs (which, hopefully, never come). A gallon of the Tree & Shrub, at 7ml/gallon, will go a long way.
 

WishDoctor

Active member
Buy the Blue bottle of Bayer asap, drench the roots. Tree and Shrub is what you want.
The nutes will not hurt the plants!!! They are actually an advantage, did you read the RA thread carefully?
Use 20ml/gallon not 7ml this will not hurt the plants!!!
When they hit me in 2009 I had 3 115gal rez, I used 250ml per rez
poured it straight into the rez with nutes, just kept using the rez for the next
week, then emptied washed and added new juice.
Stopped them, but the damage was done, went from a normal 6lb harvest to 2.5lbs...sucks.
Then you will need to drench your mothers and clones, and every house plant in your home, all soil.
all it takes is one pregger flier to be floating around to start it over.
You are at war sir WAR with the Devil Bug.
good luck, and keep up on this for the next 3-4 months seriously, if you don't they will be back.

one thing to remember is the RA is not like regular garden variety aphids.

RA have a 5 stage life cycle, and at any one of the stages they can just
stop morphing for as long as they wish stay in that stages.
 

medicalmj

Active member
Veteran
Update: Did 2nd Bayer Citrus & Vegetable treatment yesterday. Have not seen any crawlers or flyers for the last 4 - 5 days and there are no new flyers on any of our sticky traps. Rather than a Bayer only flush of our coco, we incorporated the Bayer into our feeding this time since there were no ill effects on the plants from the Bayer alone. Did 10minute runs in our bubblers and ebb/flow table. We plan to do a 3rd and final treatment in another week. So far, we are believers in Bayer.

Note: We searched the local Ace, Home Depot, and Wal-Mart for Bayer Tree & Shrub, but could not find any (we did find Tree & Shrub with feed, but obviously didn't want to use it since it has unknown nutrients added). The Tree & Shrub appears to have the same ingredients as the Citrus, but the level of Imidicloprid amount is nearly 7 times that of the Citrus. We had planned to run the Tree & Shrub at 1/7th (7ml/gallon) the amount of the Citrus (50ml/gallon) had we found some. We are likely going to order a gallon of the Tree & Shrub online somewhere to have on hand for any future needs (which, hopefully, never come). A gallon of the Tree & Shrub, at 7ml/gallon, will go a long way.

If you're gonna order online get something better/stronger than Bayer. Merit 75 is popular. I found Imidipro 2SC at 22% for $45 per quart at a nursery.
 

jcom

Member
Long time, but no posts. The Bayer worked wonders, wiped them out completely. We did 3 treatments to the mothers and vegging clones, but 2 would have sufficed. The Tree & Shrub (there are 2 types, 1 with only imidicloprid, and 1 with both imidicloprid & clothiandin) with imidicloprid was far more cost efffective. A gallon would be a lifetime supply. Uninformed persons state that the ingredients in Bayer are "highly toxic" and, of course, we felt compelled to do more research. They are, indeed, toxic to insects, but....with further reading, we found that both of these ingredients are molecules derived from nicotene. These nicotene components wreak havoc upon the nervous systems of insects, causing death. They are far less toxic to reptiles, avian species, and especially mammals....similar to smoking cigarettes. The occasional one won't kill you, but a pack or two a day will. We were lucky enough to eliminate them at the mother/clone level, but we wouldn't hesitate to use it at the early-mid flower level for a quick flush. If root aphids were ever noticed at the mid-late flower state, we'd proceed to harvest without the Bayer, and do a full clean and flush (or complete clean and dry-out) following harvest to eliminate and stragglers.
 

medicalmj

Active member
Veteran
Long time, but no posts. The Bayer worked wonders, wiped them out completely. We did 3 treatments to the mothers and vegging clones, but 2 would have sufficed. The Tree & Shrub (there are 2 types, 1 with only imidicloprid, and 1 with both imidicloprid & clothiandin) with imidicloprid was far more cost efffective. A gallon would be a lifetime supply. Uninformed persons state that the ingredients in Bayer are "highly toxic" and, of course, we felt compelled to do more research. They are, indeed, toxic to insects, but....with further reading, we found that both of these ingredients are molecules derived from nicotene. These nicotene components wreak havoc upon the nervous systems of insects, causing death. They are far less toxic to reptiles, avian species, and especially mammals....similar to smoking cigarettes. The occasional one won't kill you, but a pack or two a day will. We were lucky enough to eliminate them at the mother/clone level, but we wouldn't hesitate to use it at the early-mid flower level for a quick flush. If root aphids were ever noticed at the mid-late flower state, we'd proceed to harvest without the Bayer, and do a full clean and flush (or complete clean and dry-out) following harvest to eliminate and stragglers.

Yeah I think if used correctly it's fine. The reason it's banned in many euro countries is that it kills bees. But here again if you don't use outdoors then no problem, if you do, be sure the flowers aren't going to be in bloom shortly after application.

And I read studies about Imid being used in extremely high doses and even sprayed on cannabis and then finding the levels contained in the smoke of several types of delivery methods (bong, pipe, vape, etc). The levels were all low enough to not warrant concern among researches. FYI - the pipe fared the worst.

But I am not going to use in flower to be safe. Matter of fact I'm going to give a drench today or tomorrow for the Fungus Gnat larvae. I will then flip in two weeks. That's at least 10 weeks before harvest.

And the neonicitinoids accumulate much more in the green leafy parts of plants and very little in buds. This is why it's not going to be effective against thrips since they like to hide out in the buds/flowers. hence the name, Western Flower Thrips.
 

jcom

Member
FWIW, you can do a 3 to 1 ratio of RO Water to 3% H202, respectively, for your drench and it will kill fungus gnat larvae.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
RA damage shows on foliage as a CalMag deficiency, multiple deficiencies in fact. Read the "Fungus Gnats or Winged Root Aphids thread." Good luck. -granger
 

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