advanced nutes sensi precipitation problem help

[Mr.23]

Hello all,
OK so getting this dark black/brown flaky thingis in my res. Not sure if its due to the order i am adding things to res or are incompatible. The dark flakes do fall and sit on the bottom of res so they are not floating unless I move water around manually because air disk will not move the particles so they are heavy. One thing is day after I mixed nutes the res became cloudy then black particles apeared. When the particles are settled the res is clear but with black particles stuck to bottom and sides of res.
Data: res temps range from 69-72 degrees. Recirculating 15 gallons. Products using in order.
Protekt
Zone
Sensi veg a/b
Calmag
Rapid start
Hormex
Sm90.

Can anyone help ???

 

[Mr.23]

Oh yeah, I use ro'd water.

 

[rives]

I've never used the AN line, but have read several times about precipitation problems caused by adding the nutrients before pHing the water to below 6.5. If you are using RO, it should be very close to a pH of 7 to start with. Protekt is frequently used as pH Up, so your pH is probably pretty high when you add the Sensi. If someone can't give you better information on the order of usage, you might try getting the pH down to 6.5 or below before adding your base nutrients.

 

[Mr.23]

Thanks for the feedback Rives!
Huh never heard of that... This is the second time this happens. The first time it did not and I used the same everything...
I am going to try that. After speaking with my local shop just a little while ago, dude suggested that I add Calmag after adding zone before sensi veg a then b. So add calcium before anything else to the res also he thinks the rapid start may have something to do with it since I am running sterile res and that has some organic derived components. ...

 

[Mr.23]

After checking in the flowering room, the plants looks good with no sign of difficiencies... I guess I was getting paranoid with all that dark stuff floating around... But I will keep my eye on them just to be sure....

 

[Elite Nugz]

Im not a fan of AD either... but find out who your local hydro store AD rep is and they are usually more then happy to answer any questions. I ran their Connoisseur and Sensi line years back and the local rep told me exactly what to add, how much and in what order.

 

[Mr.23]

Thanks E.nugz!
This is my first time running advanced. I used to run botanicare pbp. But since running a sterile res due to root rot I have to run a salt based nutes since I'm using zone and sm90. And once in a while a little h202.. so far in comparison I like it especially with the pH perfect. But still this is my first time running it so need more experience with it to come up with a proper opinion.
I also have Kind nutes but going to test those on my vegetable garden outside... I am also interested in hydroponic research one part powder veg+bloom...
I guess I'm getting tired off mixing..... but that will be while..

 

[rives]

That's funny, when I saw that list of additives, my first response was that I should tell you to try V+B. It's a hell of a lot easier.

 

[Mr.23]

Rives, have you had cloudiness or precipitation in your experience using v+b? Lol. I did see your posts in the kiss user thread I think it was.. looks so simple! And results look amazing. Funny thing is that aeron from dna ran this and they said they are very very impressed with the resultsbut with enthusiasm. They also mentioned mills but not as enthusiastic as v+b.....

 

[rives]

No to both cloudiness and precipitation. I've started running SM90 and it makes for some weird crap in the rez after a while, but prior to that they were always clear.

There have been some people that haven't been happy with the results from V+B, but I think that it all comes down to your water. I fought Ca & Mg deficiencies for years and finally saw a water report for our little community - our water is glacial melt, and has very nearly RO levels of mineral content. Most nutes are compounded based on the premise that the feed water has decent levels of both in it because that is the norm. This is why I encourage everyone to get a copy of their water analysis and to use the nutrient calculator in my sig line. Shit gets real clear when you see what you are actually dealing with! For me, the RO version of V+B works great, is very stable in the reservoir (like for weeks at a time), and is about as simple as you could realistically want it to be. For large scale growers, it's probably a little expensive, but for personal growers the cost difference really isn't an issue. I think that if I was going big, I'd probably give Jack's a try.

 

[Mr.23]

Thanks Rives! Weird thing is that I called yesterday to hydroresearch. I think it was the owner I spoke with. For my system (recirculating, rockwool, ro'd water) he recommended the dirty mix... do you know the difference?

 

[rives]

You probably talked to Chris, who is the owner and a very helpful guy. The dirty is supposed to have some organic components in it. I've never used it, so I haven't really researched it at all. For whatever it's worth, there seem to be a number of people in the V+B thread that really like it, though.

 

[Mr.23]

That's who it was. Even though it has some organic derived things in it he did mention that it will work with zone, sm90 and h202 which is great!

 

[Elite Nugz]

That's who it was. Even though it has some organic derived things in it he did mention that it will work with zone, sm90 and h202 which is great!

Zone breaks down all organic matter. H202 will do the same. If your running sterile, then I wouldnt use anything organic.

If root rot is an issue, just grab a chiller. I dont think I could ever run a sterile system. I love organics and beneficial bacterial way too much. There super helpful and keep things clean for ya... like your roots.

 

[Elite Nugz]

I use to run Heavy 16 base, which is sort of organic. I added H202 into my res once, and it destroyed my base, and I ended up with deficiencies real quick. Had to dump a new res, flush and remix.

 

[rives]

I think that the definition of "organic" is what at issue here. From what I get out of the web site information, dirty has some carbon-based (organic) additives in it. I've not seen anything indicating that it has any living organisms in it. Chris would certainly know how it was appropriate to use.

 

[Mr.23]

I totally understand Elite! I think what the little black things floating around my rez is not precipitation but the organics derived products being separated by the zone in the rapid start that I used. There's no deficiency in the plant at all. My rez temps are always from 69-71 degrees. Using zone really as a prevention along with sm90 because initially I used to run hydro-organics like pbp with organics like maxicrop, liquid karma, great white.. but then I saw white furry things with little balls on top and bottom of rock wool so I thought that was the beginning of root rot but was actually great white colonizing itself.. so I got paranoid and wasted money switched systems, sterilizing, flushing, dunking. But I should have researched more.. anyways it's all done already. Maybe after I finish all my sterile rez materials I will switch back to the former system. But so far I am liking the simplicity of sterile rez.. But like you Elite, my plan is for the last week before flush is to take out the regular nutes and run a deluted organic tea only in the rez for that week like a bloom guano and other organics to help with breaking down salts and better overall flavor and health.

 

[Mr.23]

Rives, You are right. He would know. Even though some ingredients may be "derived" from organics, they might be completely soluble and available instantly to the plants. Only one way to find out!

 

[Elite Nugz]

I know AD Sensi has Urea in it, which is piss. Is Piss organic?? lol

One way to tell if something is organic or has something organic in it, is to look on the back of the bottle and check what the nutrients are derived from and the non-plant food ingredient.

If you mix H202 with nutrients that have any type of organic matter to it, you'll get those floaties on top of your res. Nutrient lines like Canna specifically say not to add H202 when using their line.

 

[Mr.23]

True dat Elite.. do u still use gh?