A perfect cure every time
- Thread starter simon
- Start date
I have both 3's & 4's. I check calibration w/ a 62% boveda pack in a sealed wire bale jar. The 3's get a bit of tape showing the correction factor, like +2, -3, etc. The 4's have adjustable calibration.
The way we use 'em, that single point calibration is all we need. It doesn't matter if they're off at 80% RH or at 40% RH at all.
I have 3 3s and none of them read the same two are close and one is like 10% off the others which are within a few percent of each other.
I got a boveda calibration pack which came with a 75% pack. At the time I didnt know they made a 62% or I would have got that.
The method you described is the best way I know of to check calibration of the 3s and tape the correction percentage on the caliber so you know what to add or subtract.
Great advice.
Agree on all points.
Indicamann
New member
Thank you all so very much for all of your input. I have just purchased two caliber 3 and two caliber 4 and will see which, if any are better. I am not really concerned with which one is better, I am more concerned with the overall outcome and honestly I think both will do just fine. I do like that you can calibrate the number four, so only time will tell. Anyway thank you all so much and I am looking forward to progressing and hopefully producing some high quality medication.
motorcity455
Member
thx for the info
To calibrate your Calibur 3 or 4 use the salt test it cost nothing and is so very simple just watch this video! it works every time the Bodiva packs say there are + or - this or that the salt test dead on 75% check out this video
http://www.cigarsinternational.com/cigar-101/article/29/salt-test
http://www.cigarsinternational.com/cigar-101/article/29/salt-test
Oh Yea Boys I know yall are all very impatient! So youll want to calibrate the Hygrometer the day before you want to store your buds it does take 12 hours to do it properly but aren't your buds worth the time? after all you have been growing them for months and with this method you will be spot on for humidity and end up with Dank sticky stinky buds that we are all looking for!!
Sorry for posting 3 times but i have smoked a little,hehehe anyway if the link doesn't work here are the written instructions!!
Try the Salt Test:
Luckily, as nature would have it, when salt and water (NaCl and H2O for you studious types), are in a saturated solution at equilibrium, the resultant humidity is 75%. This gives a fantastic reference point to calibrate our hygrometer. There is an easy way to determine if your hygrometer is accurate. Here's the procedure you should use: you need a ziploc bag, a screw-on beer bottle cap (or other small container) a small amount of salt (regular 'ole table salt), and water.
Place the salt in the bottle cap (or other small container).
Dampen the salt with water. Do not put so much in that the salt gets "sloppy". You want a damp pile of salt in the bottle cap.
Place both the hygrometer and the bottle cap full of damp salt in the ziploc bag and seal it well. (It is important not to let air on or out while the test is going on.)
Keep it like this for over 8 hours.
After 8 hours in the damp salt environment, the actual humidity inside the bag will be 75%. Compare it to your hygrometer, your hygrometer should also read 75%. If not, you will then know exactly how far off your hygrometer is. If it's off, note the amount and direction that it actually reads and be sure to add or subtract that amount when reading the hygrometer. If the hygrometer has a control to adjust it (either the needle or the display), you can set the hygrometer to 75% immediately after the test.
You should salt test your hygrometer every 6 months or so to be sure of the accuracy.
Try the Salt Test:
Luckily, as nature would have it, when salt and water (NaCl and H2O for you studious types), are in a saturated solution at equilibrium, the resultant humidity is 75%. This gives a fantastic reference point to calibrate our hygrometer. There is an easy way to determine if your hygrometer is accurate. Here's the procedure you should use: you need a ziploc bag, a screw-on beer bottle cap (or other small container) a small amount of salt (regular 'ole table salt), and water.
Place the salt in the bottle cap (or other small container).
Dampen the salt with water. Do not put so much in that the salt gets "sloppy". You want a damp pile of salt in the bottle cap.
Place both the hygrometer and the bottle cap full of damp salt in the ziploc bag and seal it well. (It is important not to let air on or out while the test is going on.)
Keep it like this for over 8 hours.
After 8 hours in the damp salt environment, the actual humidity inside the bag will be 75%. Compare it to your hygrometer, your hygrometer should also read 75%. If not, you will then know exactly how far off your hygrometer is. If it's off, note the amount and direction that it actually reads and be sure to add or subtract that amount when reading the hygrometer. If the hygrometer has a control to adjust it (either the needle or the display), you can set the hygrometer to 75% immediately after the test.
You should salt test your hygrometer every 6 months or so to be sure of the accuracy.
With 62% boveda packs in hand, there's no point to elaborate calibration routines. put the hygrometer in a quart sized sealed jar with a pack, wait 24 hours, compensate for the reading accordingly.
It doesn't matter if the meter is accurate at 80% or 40%- just in the range we want.
It doesn't matter if the meter is accurate at 80% or 40%- just in the range we want.
Once I used a stack of pizza boxes on top of the area of the stove where the pilot light was, to dry and get a perfect initial cure.
The top of the stove where the pilot light was above was warm, almost hot, but you could still touch it.
Then I would have a stack of pizza boxes. Each box could hold about an ounce. Since I ran sort of a continuous system, there was always an ounce or 3 drying. The strains were NLxHaze (Neville's, 1990, from the Seed Bank) crossed with a bunch of seeds saved by a friend in Silicon Valley with friends in Mendo.
OK, so now I know the humidity number - 75% ?
My informal pizza box method (the box on the bottom would be moved to the top, about 3 times a day, so every box would get about 8 hours at slightly elevated heat, then moved to the top to 'breathe').
I tried other methods, e.g. hang-drying, but I really liked the pizza box method.
It dove-tailed with my pizza-eating habits. I lived near Market & Gough in downtown SF near the lower Haight, right near a pizza place that was like a second home.
The top of the stove where the pilot light was above was warm, almost hot, but you could still touch it.
Then I would have a stack of pizza boxes. Each box could hold about an ounce. Since I ran sort of a continuous system, there was always an ounce or 3 drying. The strains were NLxHaze (Neville's, 1990, from the Seed Bank) crossed with a bunch of seeds saved by a friend in Silicon Valley with friends in Mendo.
OK, so now I know the humidity number - 75% ?
My informal pizza box method (the box on the bottom would be moved to the top, about 3 times a day, so every box would get about 8 hours at slightly elevated heat, then moved to the top to 'breathe').
I tried other methods, e.g. hang-drying, but I really liked the pizza box method.
It dove-tailed with my pizza-eating habits. I lived near Market & Gough in downtown SF near the lower Haight, right near a pizza place that was like a second home.
This x1000. So cheap and easy.
I used a 62% boveda pack and sealed my caliber 3s in a food saver bag with the boveda pack (not vacuumed but sealed it up and left for a week at room temp, could use a sealed jar just as well).
After about 3 days the rh had stabilized in the bag but I left them for a good week just to make sure. One was reading 13% below actual, one was 2% above actual, and the other was 4% below actual RH. Labeled them with a piece of tape and +/-% of how far off the reading is on each and bam good to go.
Right on Jhhnn! I have 7 hygrometers of various brands. Just spent a couple days checking their accuracy. Very simple like you said. Took a pint widemouth jar, put in 5 hygrometes (the others were in use) and a Boveda 62% pack. Throw on the lid and let em sit for a day. Note the variance from 62% and take a piece of tape and a marker and label each unit with its correction factor-i.e. if the meter reads 65%, mark you tape -3%. That way you know at a glance that you subtract 3% from the meters reading to get the correct humidity.
Hell, the calibration kit from Boveda is nothing but a Boveda pack (75%) and a plastic pouch to put your meter and pack into. A small jar (for the 8 gram packs) and a 62% Boveda and your set. (Calibration kit is like $3-4).
Happy Harvest, All!
Hell, the calibration kit from Boveda is nothing but a Boveda pack (75%) and a plastic pouch to put your meter and pack into. A small jar (for the 8 gram packs) and a 62% Boveda and your set. (Calibration kit is like $3-4).
Happy Harvest, All!
Great info guys
Wow Guys i'am not trying to knock the Boveda packs I use them in my C-vault for the cannabis that i am smoking but if you read this thread from the beginning you will see that it is all about getting accurate readings and maintaining that perfect level of humidification for the cure to happen. The salt test is just an option, so how would you calibrate your hygrometers if you didn't have a Boveda pack on hand? Probably the salt test! I'am just sharing info here and the salt test is what Simon recommended way back in this thread!
And a bit later it is revealed that using the salt method will void Caliber's warranty!
Some meters can not handle the corrosive atmosphere that the salt creates.
They might have a stake in Boveda sales though, so, it's your call.
Me, I no gotta be that precise.
Just lookin' for mid 60's
Got 10 Calibers, they are all within 4 percent.
If I'm concerned about high RH I put in the one that reads highest.
Think it might be too dry already, I use the lowest reader.
That gives me a little buffer zone at each end.
Have not ruined a jar in 2 years.
I store them in the same jar and use compressed air to clean them out regularly, as recommended.
I think that's why they stay so closely calibrated.
Aloha,
Weeze
Some meters can not handle the corrosive atmosphere that the salt creates.
They might have a stake in Boveda sales though, so, it's your call.
Me, I no gotta be that precise.
Just lookin' for mid 60's
Got 10 Calibers, they are all within 4 percent.
If I'm concerned about high RH I put in the one that reads highest.
Think it might be too dry already, I use the lowest reader.
That gives me a little buffer zone at each end.
Have not ruined a jar in 2 years.
I store them in the same jar and use compressed air to clean them out regularly, as recommended.
I think that's why they stay so closely calibrated.
Aloha,
Weeze
Negative. Once a batch gets down into the low 60% RH ballpark & holds a couple of days in a sealed jar, toss one of these in the jar & seal it up to cure in a cool dark place.
http://www.amazon.com/Boveda-62-Per...TF8&qid=1400544276&sr=1-1&keywords=boveda+62%
Worth every penny. Bud stored for a year is still moist & sticky, smokes even smoother than after a month. Packs exposed to the air will shrink & get rock like, lose their charm after a month or few, so keep used ones in an airtight jar.
I'm confident that the 62% packs were developed specifically for herb.
I didn't mean to come off as terribly critical. I apologize if I did.
Don't have a 62% boveda pack on hand? The Horror! Now that I know about 'em, I'll always have 'em.
