Recovery tank....Possible to clean a refurb or better to go new?

[~Alaska~]

Now, I know the title sounds kinda like a no brainer, but my local refrigeration supplier only has used and recertified(repainted etc) tanks. They said they are not sure if they are cleaned or not.

Sooooo, figure some of you out here in bho land have run into this before, and was wondering what the skinny is.

Is a recertified tank OK? Are they cleaned prior to pressure testing? Would three or four rinses with butane or another solvent remove any residual refrigerant?

Am I just being entirely too paranoid?

A

 

[rb extractors]

The hvac outfit I buy from sells those too and he assured me that they were cleaned before hand. That being said, the cost of new tanks on ebay are so cheap, why buy used?

 

[prune]

HVAC mechanics don't need clean recovery tanks and recycled tanks are a fraction of the new (non e-bay) cost, so suppliers just don't stock them. To them "new" IS "recycled", so you really need to make your needs specific.

I learned this the same way as you, including the assurances of cleanliness. Then i found the red warning sticker on the bottom of the tank specifying the possible toxic residues inside the tank. Insist on pristine newness, but be prepared for the sticker shock when buying local. I recently had a faulty valve on a tank, so it was nice to be able to exchange it out on warranty at the local shop.

 

[~Alaska~]

Kinda what I figured. Thanks for the quick replies all.

So, I assume the only sure way to know its really "new" will be direct communication with any vendor.

Any way to put a liquid/gas valve on a different tank?

Thanks

A

 

[Gray Wolf]

Kinda what I figured. Thanks for the quick replies all.

So, I assume the only sure way to know its really "new" will be direct communication with any vendor.

Any way to put a liquid/gas valve on a different tank?

Thanks

A

What P said.

The tanks can also have corrosion in them.

Yes, the dual valve assembly will fit other tanks, but make sure the dip tube is the correct length.

 

[~Alaska~]

Thanks guys, was able to source a brand new and clean tank at Johnstone supply.

Thought I had a full tank lined up to use, but it got used up already in a non recirc system, and I can't get it filled until monday .

I was wondering if anyone has a method to get cans into the system without a can tap.

Thanks,

A

 

[~Alaska~]

Was thinking about putting one of the rubber end caps on the 1/4" output, drilling a small hole in it, and just running the butane into the cylinder.

Whatcha think?

A

 

[C'Ya]

Running directly into tank would put oil from butane can in tank best to search for removing mystery oil with terpenator GW has some good info on hole processes which involves charging tank I believe

As for no can tap, in a pinch you can use a 1/4" sae flare to 1/4" male npt fitting screw flare into hose find butane adapter that hits taper of inside of the male npt side of fitting rest is just attach can and push if it leaks at butane adapter a small oring usually fixes it.

post I did earlier covers little better way I've used using an old r-12 can tap had in garage.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=282746

 

[~Alaska~]

Hey C'Ya,

Sorry if I wasn't clear. I meant tapping directly into the collection vessel(6" spool of the MKIII), not the actual refrigerant recovery tank(and yes I know I said cylinder, was in a hurry earlier), then having the appion pump the butane over into the refrigerant recovery tank, thus leaving the mystery oil in the collection chamber to be cleaned out and discarded.

Will take a look at the link you shared.

All the best,

A

 

[Gray Wolf]

Thanks guys, was able to source a brand new and clean tank at Johnstone supply.

Thought I had a full tank lined up to use, but it got used up already in a non recirc system, and I can't get it filled until monday .

I was wondering if anyone has a method to get cans into the system without a can tap.

Thanks,

A

Yes, but I don't recommend it, as it can aspirate a lot of air, which we are trying to keep away from the butane for flammability reasons.

Short term we may do what we must do, but long term I suggest getting a can tapper. They are cheap and make the job lots easier.

You could drill a 1/8" hole in a 1/4" brass flare cap, and inject the butane at the butane injection port using a plastic nozzle adapter from the lighter can lid. Open and close the valve to block air when changing cans.

Start under full vacuum, leave the dump and vent valves open and set the terpenator in about 85F water. Pull the vacuum back down to zero pressure, zero vacuum between injecting cans and after the last can is injected.

Don't pull a vacuum and just waste the last one volume of butane vapor, by opening the Terpenator and cleaning the MO out of the lower tank. If you pull a vacuum at 85F you can vacuum up the Pentane. If you get it hotter than about 100F not under vacuum, you can recover the Pentane with the Butane.

Ice the collection tank and after it has reached 32F or so, burp off non condensible atmospheric gases by opening the collection tank vent valve with no hose attached.