Indoor mmj in process

[McKush]

Sorry for all the dusties, this space is a fricken hazard....

here is another view of the trap door leading to the crawl room where the water res and ventilation system will be housed.

standing on top of joists on top of the trap door and looking back at the FR/VR rooms... (use your imagination, helps to squint a bit too...)

this is the view looking down from the lung/studio side of the room at the sump area. The FR is on the left.

The slanted wall partioning the sump and crawl space will be used in the current ventilation scheme

Looking down at the veggie area and FR. I'm going to put a removable floor section over the veggie area which becomes part of the FR space normally. That gives the VR about a 26" ceiling. I can always create another floor box which raises the ceiling up a bit if I want. -- OR -- I can remove the floor section above the Veggie space which gives me a higher ceiling over the same floor space. Running the FR without the VR panel gives me ~5'x8'x10 with and additional 14" or so ledge of about 8'.

In the pic above you can see where I bolted additional 2x10s together. I had to put in a perimeter of ganged 2x10s so that I would have a lip to seal the floor too. that took some wrangling but was able to keep reusing materials from joists for the crawl space trap door... trying to reuse as much as possible.. and saving receipts to return shit and hopefully avoid the wrath of she-who-must-be-obeyed.

 

[who dat is]

Regarding a better install of your Fiberglass batts -Get some twine and a T-50 stapler if you don't have one already. Criss cross the twine back and forth across the wall cavities and staple to the wall studs after squishing the fiberglass in place. Put multiple staples in place on the twine on studs as necessary to make sure the oversized batt won't pop the twine out of place after it expands back out. Don't get those goober ass long staples for this either get the shorter ones that will bite all the way into the wood and pinch the twine in place. You could even then go back over the fiberglass with some 6 mil poly to further secure things and tighten it up as well. Take the time also to cut the batt away at places like like switches, outlets, junction boxes, etc to have everything in place. This will help reduce noise and also keep temps where they need to be. The spray foam that you speak of will offgas but how much will it do that after it has cured and hardened? If you are really worried about offgasing you could use some low/no VOC caulk for smaller cracks. Larger cracks you could stuff with fiberglass scraps or backer rod and then caulk over that to make an airtight seal. You could even use steel wool as a filler and then caulk over that. Mice, rats, critters, etc. wouldn't be able to gnaw through the steel wool.

I'm glad you mentioned your insulation. I noticed it earlier and it's not really doing much for you when it is sagging and not in direct contact with the surface it's supposed to insulate. Just a pet peeve of mine. Watching the rest of this build.

 

[Caravaggio]

he insulation. Also there are better types of foam than what I had gotten and are shown in the pics. It was what they had when I went...

The Reflectix is what I could find at Lowes tbh. There is a much better product out there called Prodex but I couldn't source it local. But shit fire Reflectix will help seal this up just as well. like life man we make compromises.

Im very intrigued by this Prodex. Any idea where to source it in person other than that 1 website that seems to sell it?

 

[Granger2]

Carravaggio,
I can give you a review of Prodex filled with nauseatingly high praise. When I built my room I used a layer of Prodex over the studs that were filled with the pink fiber glass. I covered that with 1/4" plywood, then put another layer of Prodex onto the ply. I put a layer of prodex on the ceiling, screwed 1x4's over it to serve as rafters to attach another layer, using staples, then completely seeled it, covering the staples, with the tape they recommend. The 1x's create air space between the layers.

Seven years later, I have never had to repair it, except where I jabbed thru the foil with something. Simply covered it with foil tape. Checked the ceiling couple of months ago, and it still seems to be totally in place like the day I installed it.

It's so lite that you can stack the layers up, but having air space between them is essential to get as many "R's" as possible. On my metal door, I taped strips of it on to create air space, then taped the crap out of the top layer. That was 7 years ago. The foil also makes your room inpenetrable to snooping from above.

I love the stuff. So easy to work with, and I know that it was probably the best money I spent on the project. No telling how much money it has saved me on heating and cooling. Also cuts decibles. Impervious to water. They will sell you 1 roll 2'x175' for around $130 something. It also helps with vibration. Stop me, or I'll be typing all morning. Good luck. -granger

 

[McKush]

Who Dat -

Great tip about using the twine to hold the batts up in place. honestly I never intended to pop the fibreglass bales by the time I did but was forced to when my build pace clearly meant that the winter was going to eat my ass in elec heating bills. So pop, and up they went in a hurry one day.

Looks like shit in the pics and it bugged me but its temporary... coming down now in favor of Reflectix hot pockets... that's were you wrap Reflectix in back and front of your primary insulation and tape the fucker shut tight with beaucoup rolls of tape.

Thanks for following and keep the info flowing! I liked your idea and would have used it earlier had I seen it, if you look in some of the pictures you will see a floro yellow roll of construction string hanging on the wall.... not twine but better for some uses like running a plumb line.

I act gruff and I am somewhat but I appreciate learning anything new so don't be afraid of the bluster and coarse language. I'm a life long learner man, in for the fucking duration!!! Learning is what keeps me living. Most of my hobbies have that sticky learning quality too them as well, I love learning to a point where I realize there is still so much more to learn about a subject, all of a sudden its like you have a vast field that you can mentally play in..

 

[McKush]

Granger - good info and thanks for sharing it. You can also use furring strips to separate ply walls or dry walls for better sound treatment and R value.

I really wanted Prodex but the minimum buys kept me away from it and I wasn't exactly excited about having some driver drop off gads of insulation on my front door... not exactly low key.

kudos on using Prodex tho, its a much better material choice.

 

[Caravaggio]

Carravaggio,
I can give you a review of Prodex filled with nauseatingly high praise. When I built my room I used a layer of Prodex over the studs that were filled with the pink fiber glass. I covered that with 1/4" plywood, then put another layer of Prodex onto the ply. I put a layer of prodex on the ceiling, screwed 1x4's over it to serve as rafters to attach another layer, using staples, then completely seeled it, covering the staples, with the tape they recommend. The 1x's create air space between the layers.

Seven years later, I have never had to repair it, except where I jabbed thru the foil with something. Simply covered it with foil tape. Checked the ceiling couple of months ago, and it still seems to be totally in place like the day I installed it.

It's so lite that you can stack the layers up, but having air space between them is essential to get as many "R's" as possible. On my metal door, I taped strips of it on to create air space, then taped the crap out of the top layer. That was 7 years ago. The foil also makes your room inpenetrable to snooping from above.

I love the stuff. So easy to work with, and I know that it was probably the best money I spent on the project. No telling how much money it has saved me on heating and cooling. Also cuts decibles. Impervious to water. They will sell you 1 roll 2'x175' for around $130 something. It also helps with vibration. Stop me, or I'll be typing all morning. Good luck. -granger

Tried to buy some. The guy was a complete dick. I had questions and he couldn't answe them.

Id avoid buying it until someone other than Insulation4Less sells it. Those people don't deserve my money.

 

[McKush]

EBay has it but I think a big min buy also...

Great specs tho and highly regarded material.

 

[Granger2]

McKush,
I don't think any UPS driver sees insulation and thinks "growroom." Good luck. -granger

 

[McKush]

Dude you would be surprised at what they know by running a route...

 

[who dat is]

Could you not contact some local insulation wholesalers and see if they couldn't order it for you? Pay cash and you're installing a radiant barrier in your attic, right? Right?

Just a thought.

 

[McKush]

^^^perhaps, but the ship, as the old adage goes, has sailed on that one.

I'm ok with the insulation choices I've made.

 

[McKush]

Let the pics resume....


another view of the in process VR locker and the future floor of the Ledge in the FR. The VR locker is being boxed in

The right most floor joist is staying put. I am not going to to a straight walled partition but will have a curve in that wall. The area to the right of the joist will be on the studio side of the wall. You'll see later if you can't visualize what I mean now.

Here you can see the sump area below being boxed in for walls. The slanted wall will be for a ventilation line to come in from the crawl area mounted fans

here I am installing furring strips then luann to box in about 16" of the side of the room for insulation. First I screwed in the furring strips, put down luann and then tape over that with alumimum tape. Then I'll go and put down Reflectix, seal that, put in Roxul, then reflectix and seal that with alum tape. I call them my Reflectix hot pockets ..

 

[McKush]

Under these floor joists I had also put down moisture barrier plastic and some loose Roxul on top of that but below the joists being boxed. R value is pretty good I think.

I don't think I have any pics of it but I did install a 3/4 treated plywood wall before I started installing teh reflectix 'n tape. that ply has foam panel and then pond liner and then some more water barrier plastic on the soil.

more insulating the VR locker with Roxul & reflectix

hot pockets!

notice in the bottom that I did put ply back down there on the wall. was a bitch doing that in such a cramped space..

 

[McKush]

 

[McKush]

and on the 189th day he rested...

 

[McKush]

back to work...

back to black

octopus

time

 

[Mister_D]

 

[McKush]

The octopus continues to be tamed and the walls are getting prepped for the first layer of plywood. Hope to get lots done today.

 

[McKush]

Pics continue

This pic shows the layers of treatment I gave the floor.

First protective vapor barrier plastic. Then some loose Roxul insulation over the plastic barrier. Then I box the bottom of the joists with furring strips. Cut Luann to fit and secure the luann with screws to the top of the furring strips. Then I taped the work with alumimum tape. Put Reflectix down and tape that. Then put in the Roxul. Then put Reflectix over all that.

Not pictured are the black octopus treatment of pond liner strips affixed to the joists (or studs). Right before I'll put on the plywood walls I will wipe the rubber down to get it clean and prepared.

pic of the crawlspace trap door in the lung/studio room.

Prepping to dig... at this point my head is swirling with ideas on how to run the ventilation
lines.