What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

Status
Not open for further replies.

GanjaRebelSeeds

Member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Lot's of people have permits for their GH's. Some area's have no problems with medical grows that are responsible about their impact on the environment. It's much needed tax revenue for the county. Busting a harmless grower is spending/wasting tax revenue.

Lot's of people handle storage of products differently due to different variations in what type of market they exist in. I know lot's of folks who remoisten. If your storing off grid for 6-8 months and you seal it with too much moisture it'll mold. You can always add moisture, but you can fix mold.
The goal is to store it at proper humidity levels, and that takes lots of experience to dial in, just as much as growing or drying properly. Too dry is better than too wet.
 

Backyard Farmer

Active member
Veteran
What about those clearspan helical anchors?

The county doesn't care what you use to anchor the building down what they care about is a site plan, structural calculations for snow load, wind and seismic shear, and building plan.


There are ways around giving them such detailed information but you still need to get a permit.
 

CanniDo Cowboy

Member
Veteran
The county doesn't care what you use to anchor the building down what they care about is a site plan, structural calculations for snow load, wind and seismic shear, and building plan.

This isnt factual, pard. Of course the county "cares" what you use to anchor any structure. All counties and states are required to first follow the UBC's or United Building Codes. Foundation "J" bolts, if footings/stemwalls are poured are absolutely required, spaced typically 4' apart, no less than 16" from ends and or splices. Specific J bolt length, diameter of bolt, specific size nuts & washers, etc. Simpson (hurricane)tie-down straps at all corners and usually every 25ft, 16" into footing, usually to run a minimum of 2 ft vertically up the wall. Each county or state can require specific code requirements/additions relative to the area, but attaching a structure to a foundation begins with basic UBC101.

"A building plan" sounds pretty simple but it consists of a separate foundation detail (including rebar and J bolt details), a wall framing detail, a roof detail, engineering specs if required and front, rear and side elevation details. There is a lot of stuff in a "building plan"...

Wind shear is directly associated with anchorage in that it would be self defeating to require a structure itself to be wind-proof but not be concerned about it being blown off its foundation.

You are usually required to submit 7 site plans. The plans are distributed thru various other building and planning associated depts ie; Planning, Zoning, Health, Flood, Fire and even Fish & Game ( In Ca) reviews your site plan...

When filing for ANY permit, there are MANY details ALL counties care about...CC
 

ponobegone

Member
Veteran
backyards the gospel don't ya know!! kids... anyways on topic I use bread pitas in the turkey bag to re moisten. lol @ ruffin buds up again in a basket. gluten free pitas for the dreadys.
 

Stank J.P.

Member
Hahahahahaha.....everybody's an expert on "The growing large plants, outdoors, thread..."

Seems about right. You get alot of conflicting info and pissing contests on here. I think you just gotta wade through the B.S. and look hard for the real heads on here. I believe myself, and most others on here are just trying to swap ideas and info to help everyone be better at what we love. That being said I am trying to go bigger and better in every aspect this year(after a few buster ass seasons of "lazy" unprepared and cheap ways). Building my own soil, getting it and my water tested at a lab. Long post...Where the fuck do you guys get hundreds of pounds of amendments? I was looking on peaceful valley and the shipping was gonna be well over a grand. I don't have that kinda $.
Peace.
 

ponobegone

Member
Veteran
DHF good to see ya around man! thanks and respect for being a REAL grower back when ya could serve 20yrs hard time if caught and that's for real. Folks like you and ******* paved the way for the softy kid growers we got around now!
 

Stank J.P.

Member
Hi I'm softy kid, and I appreciate anyone who has/had the balls to take risks for what they love and think is right. In reference to my above post I just found a place that could save me big and would like to see what you guys think. Is granular steamed bone meal ok to be using? I had only seen in before in a powder type form. Thanks.
 

ponobegone

Member
Veteran
this is one of the "scrog" orchards I saw in Japan this winter, gotta maximize the garden space.
picture.php
picture.php
 

ponobegone

Member
Veteran
about 5 and a half to the first grid and another 2 feet maybe to the next grid. I used to run my indoor almost the same on a mini scale and my yields were great, but super tedious work.
picture.php
 
C

Cep

I used them this year and I must say they do the trick. My herb has stayed fresh and moist, which is a problem I have had in the past. No refrigeration. However they did cost a fair amount, that's just another 5-10$ per lb you have to spend. It is worth it for me personally, but if your working with 10's or 100's of packs, it probably isn't worth it.

They are great. I'm sure Boveda will be raking in profits by catering to our market. 5-10$/unit isn't that significant of a cost. I'll continue to use them.

Good luck.....and guys.....Dryin the "fuck outta your dope" , and then fogging the shit ta put water weight back in it @ 8 lbs per gal is just wrong on so many levels....and OMFG….

Are you suggesting that Backyard is artificially inflating the weight of his product? You do realize that plant material originally dried in a 65% humidity room has the same water content as bone dry material rehydrated in a 65% humidity room?

There`s no way to keep it moist without problems before going to market ?......Please guys....Don`t listen to this shit.......Waaaaay too much mis-information in so few posts on "giving advice"....

Once properly dried and cured nugs have been brought down to 62% consistently in buckets/turkey bags/big ziplocs, you can freeze it indefinitely and it`ll be brand new when thawed out 5 yrs from now or whenever , and ….

If that is true, explain how it won't get freezer burn just like any other perishable product? All perishables are going to oxidize if stored the way you're suggesting.

I understand freezing 100`s of lbs can be tedious , but it`s the ONLY way that`s been found over the yrs to be time tested and proven , so you wanna play in the big leagues , get the proper storage equipment ready and waitin if product ain`t pre-sold after processing , cuz re-hydrating is bullshit and a rookie or rather greed ploy at best.....or...you can...

Not only does "fogging" dope ruin terpene and taste profiles , it adds weight that`s already been taken away in an "improper" dry with NO cure , so this is not viable help for the community Veg....and…

Please refrain from spreading improper , false , and biased info due to where your head`s at , and get a permit....or not....but please report back on how you got around it when no one else can…..

We get it, you two have beef, but you've just come into this thread and asserted that someone's advice is bullshit and proceeded to provide your own questionable advice.

Check out this website please: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ellipsis


Peace...DHF....:ying:....

The question I have for everyone, and this most definitely pertains to the users that post in this thread (as large plants produce many #'s), is if any of you are using Nitrogen and how successful is it in maintaining freshness? I'm experimenting with oxygen absorber packets but am looking into using nitrogen.
 
N

NorCalDreaming

The question I have for everyone, and this most definitely pertains to the users that post in this thread (as large plants produce many #'s), is if any of you are using Nitrogen and how successful is it in maintaining freshness? I'm experimenting with oxygen absorber packets but am looking into using nitrogen.
My old day job was dealing with somewhat sensitive nutritional products in bulk. We would get boxes of material packaged in thick mylar foil bags that were heat sealed and vacuum packed with an oxygen absorber inside. In that state will keep for just about forever. Since nitrogen is inert would achieve close to the same as vacuum packaging that taking into consideration you're not flushing all the O2 out.

I dunno...I picked up a bunch of packs from an outdoor grower in Mendo in May and he was adamant about maintaining moisture levels in storage. His stuff was fantastic. I was surprised how good it was.
 

bamboogardner

Active member
I'm experimenting with oxygen absorber packets but am looking into using nitrogen.

Don't waste your time on the oxygen absorber packets. Been there, done that. I opened some up after having them sealed for over a year, and while the erb was still good, it did not smell the same, and more important, it had turned completely brown. Not good. Probably a nitrogen sealer would be better. That's how important documents are kept in the Library of Congress and Smithsonian.
 
C

Cep

My old day job was dealing with somewhat sensitive nutritional products in bulk. We would get boxes of material packaged in thick mylar foil bags that were heat sealed and vacuum packed with an oxygen absorber inside. In that state will keep for just about forever. Since nitrogen is inert would achieve close to the same as vacuum packaging that taking into consideration you're not flushing all the O2 out.

I dunno...I picked up a bunch of packs from an outdoor grower in Mendo in May and he was adamant about maintaining moisture levels in storage. His stuff was fantastic. I was surprised how good it was.

How old was it, 6 or 7 months by then? I wonder if moisture isn't an issue if there isn't oxygen present.

Do those big nitrogen injector units vacuum the packs or can you turn the vacuum function off? I don't want to crush the flowers. Instead of buying the expensive unit I might manually flush the bags and add an O2 absorber to suck up whatever remains.
 

Backyard Farmer

Active member
Veteran
I rock the MVS45X ....It keeps anything you put in it perfect. I pack a lot of meat with it.

Cep I decided to leave out freezer burn on his 25-38% moisture content flowers (this is how much moisture is left in the bud if you cure it @ 62% rH)...

There's no beef between us, I just can't stand fake people who run around and make themselves out to be the be all end all of growing who were there since the first seed of marijuana was smuggled back from the Hippie Hash trail...and the advice / personal experiences I share completely contradict the drivel from the formerly mentioned crowd...that's where the problems come from. People not liking to hear that they're wrong and that others realize they're full of BS.
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
cool looking orchard pono.

i was not a fan of the boveda packs this year, at 5 a pop they did not work as good as i wanted. they just take to damn slow to re-moisten, like 5 days usually using one of those 5 dollar large packs per LB.

i had faster and cheaper results using good ol fashioned orange peels, i eat a bunch of tangerines and oranges anyways so put them to use. also tortillas and bread work really good too and are way cheaper, however i did notice when i put too much tortilla some of my sours kind of took on the smell of them!

also really comes down to strain. blue dream seems to keep perfectly without any sealing or packets. its still a nice bright green and has all the smell, same with Dream Queen. but all the sours, chem4, even cherry pie started to oxidize and turn golden brown.
 
N

NorCalDreaming

How old was it, 6 or 7 months by then? I wonder if moisture isn't an issue if there isn't oxygen present.
7 months. The dude crawled up into his attic, after it had been a pretty warm and sunny spring, and pulled down a few contractor bags for me to pick through. Everything was fairly moist like how I would keep herb in a jar for personal use. No vacuum packaging, he used turkey bags, etc. I would have liked to have seen what the stuff was like a month or two after harvest :biggrin:. Better than virtually all the dried out crap I ran into in Butte county even after I rehydrated it.

A few months back a local friend was getting 2012 outdoor for $50 an oz. The stuff was frikkin awesome all things considered. I haven't seen the grower in town since then to ask how he stored it.

With hop storage they keep the shit COLD yet mostly dried out and in pellets vacuum sealed in mylar foil bags. Even with mylar foil bags they talk about oxygen transfer yet in moles.

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] also really comes down to strain. blue dream seems to keep perfectly without any sealing or packets. its still a nice bright green and has all the smell, same with Dream Queen. but all the sours, chem4, even cherry pie started to oxidize and turn golden brown. [/FONT]
Yeah Tom posted in this thread way back about Chem 4 turning brown if you breathe on it.
 
C

Cep

I rock the MVS45X ....It keeps the herb perfect and pristine till I pull it out and get it ready for market.

Vacuum is optional?

i was not a fan of the boveda packs this year, at 5 a pop they did not work as good as i wanted. they just take to damn slow to re-moisten, like 5 days usually using one of those 5 dollar large packs per LB.

They do take time, moisture has to diffuse through the material.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top